Personal computing discussed
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Duct Tape Dude wrote:I'm so mad at my driving and I want to know [stuff]
I did see this thread: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=116277 I learned that maybe VW is not the brand to buy at the moment, but everyone likes Subarus.
localhostrulez wrote:Plus, remember tire realignment.
localhostrulez wrote:I do, but my ABS doesn't function if ALL tires are slipping. It only works when at least one has traction. I tested this out on ice in a parking lot coming home from work one day. Today while crashing I felt the ABS flutter maybe twice before it totally locked up. I was also going sideways, so that didn't help.Out of curiosity, do you have ABS? Sounds like it was optional on that model. My car doesn't (one of the last cars Honda made with ABS reserved for the high-end trim), so now you're scaring me a bit. Although my car is fun to zip around corners with.
localhostrulez wrote:I feel like these cars are designed to completely fall apart on impact. Anything to save the driver and get good crash ratings, which is a good thing for the most part. What these photos don't show are the many bits of plastic that came from whoknowswhere.I did manage to crash the little carbon fiber solar vehicle my uni team has, probably 20MPH or so on impact, into some tall grass after getting thrown off on a bumpy road (terrible suspension - my car is stable at 80 on the freeway, that thing makes me nervous at 35 in the city). No damage save for me being a little shaken, and a few scratches and bugs on the hood. That's one hell of a curb attack in your case though.
localhostrulez wrote:Honda's lineup looks impressive as of late. A few of my friends have Subarus and swear by them as well.Edit: Honestly, I wasn't a fan of VW's cars even before the emissions scandal broke out. Hondas and Subis are nice though. Actually, I thought about getting an Impreza or Legacy - ended up with the Civic though, mainly for MPG/cost reasons (apples to oranges, it's one of the smallest/cheapest economy cars I happen to like).
gigafinger wrote:I hope so. I don't know much but he seemed gentle enough. I did rush to take pictures before towing for this reason though.Let's hope that Number 2 did not cause more damage to the vehicle. Tow guys don't give a ****.
ludi wrote:Indeed! Physics breaks for no one though, and this is squarely my fault. I'm very thankful no one else was involved!Dude, sorry about that! Bummer of a way to kick off your Friday.
ludi wrote:Eep... that seems simultaneously reasonable and expensive.Cost: Kind of depends on what broke. If the parts and pieces are okay and it just popped or broke clips and damaged the steel wheels, you're probably looking at $2000-2500 for a professional restoration including repainting the front clip and blending the hood and fenders.
ludi wrote:Spot on. A deer came out of nowhere years ago so that's a 40mph deer buttprint you see there. The deer actually broke the headlight and front fender clips, so that may have primed the front for the rest of the carnage there today. I'm also afraid that the hood is ever so slightly warped from said deer and will be added to the repair costs. It closed properly before, if more snugly.The hood damage appears old (I see rust) but the adjuster may decide to include it in the writeup because paint work will be required on it regardless.
ludi wrote:Huh. That's something I'll ask about. This thing was probably only worth twice of what it is now as salvage.If the impact physically broke mounting points for the fascia and headlights or deformed a bunch of suspension hardware, they will probably write it off as a total loss but sell it at auction where it will be picked up and repaired by a budget car dealer using junkyard salvage. Alternately, if you want to do that yourself, the adjuster may offer you the write-off value minus a buyback, and you can then get a minimal repair done for cheap at a local shop or Maaco.
dmjifn wrote:Ditto! I'm happy I am mad instead of hurt. This is/was my first car and there was no way I was getting something expensive straight out of college. And that sort of paid off. Learning to use a brake would be cheaper, though.Ha ha. Sorry, but glad you're OK. And glad you had this experience in a car you can, in the long run, afford to total.
dmjifn wrote:I don't want to do it myself, but maybe I can find a local shop who will.Ludi speaks wise about buying your car back as an option - at least if you're the kind of person who is handy, tolerant, and even has a soft spot for clunkers. The car could turn out great after a repair. It depends on what kind of owner/driver you are. If you just want transportation without hassle, I would probably stay away if they total it.
dmjifn wrote:I have driven two VWs and I really liked the way they handled (especially a 7 speed automatic Passat through the Swiss Alps a year ago), but I'm most worried about maintenance and reliability. A few of my friends have had problems with their Jettas. But given the scandals I think you're right--it'd be worth considering. I'd get a gasoline car anyway.As for VWs - au contraire! IMO, they're still OK cars. Even the gasoline fueled ones may be heavily discounted in the scandal - this may be the perfect time to pick up a VW. FWIW, I test drove a Kia Soul and they're a lot nicer than you'd expect if you'd never been in one. The dealer I went to is *still* trying to clear out 2015s, so you might find a deal on a new one within your budget.
dmjifn wrote:Oh don't worry, I've already started dreaming inbetween bursts of work!In fact, while you're waiting on your insurance adjustor, why don't you hit up family members to see if they have any car they'd part with cheap? Or do some window shopping on Craigslist?
localhostrulez wrote:A friend of mine also got a Kia, I'm definitely open to them because their warranty sounds great.I rode in a coworker's Kia Sportage - very, very smooth. No idea about the long-term reliability though.
Deanjo wrote:The only thing wrong with the rear wheels is I blame them for causing this in the first place!A lot of Nissans have no rear camber adjustment. If you need a rear wheel alignment then the frame, rear suspension or unibody is bent. If that is the case, the car is a write off.
Aranarth wrote:Thanks for the internet assessment. You listed out more than I could. Maybe I should have popped the hood to see more. I'll report back on Monday with the official damages![very helpful educated guesses] ... That's the most my untrained eyes can see from the pics.
If they do total it out, I guarantee that someone will salvage it.
Since it was wobbled to the wrecker I doubt its all that bad.
Aranarth wrote:I clearly don't pray to the same car gods as you, but hopefully they have some benevolence left for me.In this case I backed it into the guardrail with a mighty bang.
I just out and took a look and it only cracked the tail light and gave me a nice uniform divot in the driver's rear quarter panel.
NovusBogus wrote:I'm figuring a writeoff is coming, too.I had a bit worse version of that a few years ago, except it involved a lot of really cold powdery snow and a concrete dividing wall. In my case it was a no-brainer because the car didn't have repair insurance and the few thousand to fix something like that would been far more than the value of the car. The car itself is undoubtedly repairable, but the insurance guy is likely going to want to write it off.
NovusBogus wrote:My fiancee has a hatchback Versa and it beats the heck out of mine for utility (even before this morning). I'm sold on hatchbacks.I drive a Mazda 6 and like it. If you're buying new, consider a compact hatchback if you want both fuel efficiency and the ability to carry light cargo.
ludi wrote:s for VWs - au contraire! IMO, they're still OK cars. Even the gasoline fueled ones may be heavily discounted in the scandal - this may be the perfect time to pick up a VW.
localhostrulez wrote:A lot of Nissans have no rear camber adjustment. If you need a rear wheel alignment then the frame, rear suspension or unibody is bent. If that is the case, the car is a write off.
HorseIicious wrote:Also depends on how much you're going to get from your insurance and if you think you could/would drive the repaired car long enough to make it worth while. I would look at it as though you're spending $X on a new car (whatever insurance will pay - KBB/Actual Cash Value if totaled). If it's not totaled, considered taking the check for the quoted repair costs (if that's permitted in your state), as well as whatever you can get for the car as-is (I would guess at least $500), and seeing what kind of alternative you can acquire with those funds. Make the best choice for you based on features, mileage, and how many years you anticipate being able to drive each vehicle.
ludi wrote:Cost: Kind of depends on what broke. If the parts and pieces are okay and it just popped or broke clips and damaged the steel wheels, you're probably looking at $2000-2500 for a professional restoration including repainting the front clip and blending the hood and fenders.
Atradeimos wrote:I hope the axle and suspension are ok but it's hard to say. I think the tires took the brunt of the force, honestly.The impact was to the front wheels and the lower part of the front bumper, correct? If the suspension is still doing okay, I suspect it will be repairable.
Atradeimos wrote:Thanks. No traction control, and at first it was more of a 2-wheel skid after a bump. The front maintained traction for a little longer (it was around a turn). I know it won't prevent stupidity but I'd like traction control for my next car.Glad you're still doing fine btw. I assume you have a model without traction control? It may not have rescued a four wheel skid anyway...
Atradeimos wrote:Oh boy. I think that's more than my car is worth and I think I have more damage.Just for reference, this was about a $6k job
Duct Tape Dude wrote:No traction control, and at first it was more of a 2-wheel skid after a bump. The front maintained traction for a little longer (it was around a turn). I know it won't prevent stupidity but I'd like traction control for my next car.
dmjifn wrote:Duct Tape Dude wrote:No traction control, and at first it was more of a 2-wheel skid after a bump. The front maintained traction for a little longer (it was around a turn). I know it won't prevent stupidity but I'd like traction control for my next car.
I am not a car expert but, IMO, you're overplaying the role TC might have played. I had TC in my Passat for more than a decade and see the TC light every time it's engaged - IMO it would not have helped from your description. Good judgement and quality tires were probably all you needed here.
Car and Driver wrote:The Versa is built to be America’s cheapest car, so if you want a cheap new car, here it is; if you like to drive, keep shopping. The Versa has insultingly flimsy materials. Its wimpy 109-hp 1.6-liter engine makes for slow acceleration but is reasonably fuel efficient.... The Versa, then, remains a cheap new car for people who would otherwise be driving a used car. We can think of better ways to spend an automotive allowance, no matter how modest it may be.
Duct Tape Dude wrote:The Honda Fit is a very good vehicle. I also suggest taking lightly-used Mazda 3 and Ford Focus hatchbacks for test drives.What makes/models would you recommend in the "couple with a little stuff" category, and/or what should I avoid? I'd like to keep it well under $18k if possible.
Car and Driver wrote:If they ever put us in charge, the Honda Fit will be mankind’s hatchback. Since it appeared on the scene in 2006, the fun-size Honda has been our reflexive recommendation for pretty much everybody on a budget.
Duct Tape Dude wrote:I managed my first rapid unplanned disassembly this morning.
Captain Ned wrote:Only way to bling a Versa is to pay extra for the old-style plate.
Duct Tape Dude wrote:What a cost-benefit analysis this will be!