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Duct Tape Dude
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When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 1:12 pm

http://imgur.com/a/Jt3hC

I managed my first rapid unplanned disassembly this morning. I'm totally fine, the car is, uh, not. I clearly was going too fast on a turn, when I went over a bump and my back tires decided traction is for amateurs. I failed to regain control of the car and went sideways, oversteered, finally braked, and then slammed into the curb a vicious curb attacked me and ate the bottom front of my car. Luckily, no one else was involved, and airbags didn't deploy so I'd guess the impact was <=25mph. An insurance guy is going to tell me on Monday how much it'll cost.

I have way more computer experience than car experience, but I'm so mad at my driving and I want to know:

1) For a 2010 Nissan Versa with 55k miles on it, does this look totaled to you from the rainy photos? The bumper looked damaged, the tires are both dented to some degree, but the tow guy was able to back it out and drive it to the truck.
2) Suppose repairs amounted close to the car's value. Am I better off getting it repaired or getting a new car?
3) Suppose I need a new car instead. What makes/models would you recommend in the "couple with a little stuff" category, and/or what should I avoid? I'd like to keep it well under $18k if possible.

I did see this thread: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=116277 I learned that maybe VW is not the brand to buy at the moment, but everyone likes Subarus.

Also I hope everyone else's day is going better.
 
localhostrulez
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 1:28 pm

Out of curiosity, do you have ABS? Sounds like it was optional on that model. My car doesn't (one of the last cars Honda made with ABS reserved for the high-end trim), so now you're scaring me a bit. Although my car is fun to zip around corners with.

No idea how much it was damaged (particularly without pictures under the hood, etc). Plus, remember tire realignment. Also depends on what you repair - I've seen cars driving around with big dents that are otherwise fine. Hell, I've got minor spider cracks in the paint on every single corner of the car. How bad was the previous owner at parking? :lol:

I did manage to crash the little carbon fiber solar vehicle my uni team has, probably 20MPH or so on impact, into some tall grass after getting thrown off on a bumpy road (terrible suspension - my car is stable at 80 on the freeway, that thing makes me nervous at 35 in the city). No damage save for me being a little shaken, and a few scratches and bugs on the hood. That's one hell of a curb attack in your case though.

Edit: Honestly, I wasn't a fan of VW's cars even before the emissions scandal broke out. Hondas and Subis are nice though. Actually, I thought about getting an Impreza or Legacy - ended up with the Civic though, mainly for MPG/cost reasons (apples to oranges, it's one of the smallest/cheapest economy cars I happen to like).
Last edited by localhostrulez on Fri Oct 02, 2015 1:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
 
gigafinger
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 1:32 pm

Let's hope that Number 2 did not cause more damage to the vehicle. Tow guys don't give a ****.
 
ludi
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 1:45 pm

Dude, sorry about that! Bummer of a way to kick off your Friday.

Cost: Kind of depends on what broke. If the parts and pieces are okay and it just popped or broke clips and damaged the steel wheels, you're probably looking at $2000-2500 for a professional restoration including repainting the front clip and blending the hood and fenders. The hood damage appears old (I see rust) but the adjuster may decide to include it in the writeup because paint work will be required on it regardless.

If the impact physically broke mounting points for the fascia and headlights or deformed a bunch of suspension hardware, they will probably write it off as a total loss but sell it at auction where it will be picked up and repaired by a budget car dealer using junkyard salvage. Alternately, if you want to do that yourself, the adjuster may offer you the write-off value minus a buyback, and you can then get a minimal repair done for cheap at a local shop or Maaco.
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dmjifn
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 1:56 pm

Ha ha. Sorry, but glad you're OK. And glad you had this experience in a car you can, in the long run, afford to total.
Duct Tape Dude wrote:
I'm so mad at my driving and I want to know [stuff]
I did see this thread: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=116277 I learned that maybe VW is not the brand to buy at the moment, but everyone likes Subarus.

Ludi speaks wise about buying your car back as an option - at least if you're the kind of person who is handy, tolerant, and even has a soft spot for clunkers. The car could turn out great after a repair. It depends on what kind of owner/driver you are. If you just want transportation without hassle, I would probably stay away if they total it.

As for VWs - au contraire! IMO, they're still OK cars. Even the gasoline fueled ones may be heavily discounted in the scandal - this may be the perfect time to pick up a VW. FWIW, I test drove a Kia Soul and they're a lot nicer than you'd expect if you'd never been in one. The dealer I went to is *still* trying to clear out 2015s, so you might find a deal on a new one within your budget.

In fact, while you're waiting on your insurance adjustor, why don't you hit up family members to see if they have any car they'd part with cheap? Or do some window shopping on Craigslist?
 
localhostrulez
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 1:58 pm

I rode in a coworker's Kia Sportage - very, very smooth. No idea about the long-term reliability though.
 
Deanjo
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 2:06 pm

localhostrulez wrote:
Plus, remember tire realignment.


A lot of Nissans have no rear camber adjustment. If you need a rear wheel alignment then the frame, rear suspension or unibody is bent. If that is the case, the car is a write off.

By the looks of the pictures, a entry model Nissan that is 5 years old would likely be written off as their parts tend to be more expensive than their domestic counterparts.
 
Aranarth
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 2:13 pm

Personally it looks superficial.
You have steel wheels so they are not too expensive to replace
You need 2 new tires as well (if you bent the rim the tire should be replaced for safety reasons)

You need a new front bumper and mounts for it straightened/replaced
New hood.
Possible new front quarter panel on drivers side.
other side looks fine
possible but highly unlikely that the frame is twisted.

Unable to see what damage has been done to the tierods, sway arms, macpherson struts, etc. etc. but the entire front end may have to be rebuilt.

That's the most my untrained eyes can see from the pics.

If they do total it out, I guarantee that someone will salvage it.
Since it was wobbled to the wrecker I doubt its all that bad.
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 2:18 pm

I did almost the same thing to a 83 pontiac bonneville sliding on freezing rain.
In this case I backed it into the guardrail with a mighty bang.
I just out and took a look and it only cracked the tail light and gave me a nice uniform divot in the driver's rear quarter panel.
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NovusBogus
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 2:27 pm

I had a bit worse version of that a few years ago, except it involved a lot of really cold powdery snow and a concrete dividing wall. In my case it was a no-brainer because the car didn't have repair insurance and the few thousand to fix something like that would been far more than the value of the car. The car itself is undoubtedly repairable, but the insurance guy is likely going to want to write it off.

I drive a Mazda 6 and like it. If you're buying new, consider a compact hatchback if you want both fuel efficiency and the ability to carry light cargo.
 
Duct Tape Dude
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 2:29 pm

localhostrulez wrote:
Out of curiosity, do you have ABS? Sounds like it was optional on that model. My car doesn't (one of the last cars Honda made with ABS reserved for the high-end trim), so now you're scaring me a bit. Although my car is fun to zip around corners with.
I do, but my ABS doesn't function if ALL tires are slipping. It only works when at least one has traction. I tested this out on ice in a parking lot coming home from work one day. Today while crashing I felt the ABS flutter maybe twice before it totally locked up. I was also going sideways, so that didn't help.
localhostrulez wrote:
I did manage to crash the little carbon fiber solar vehicle my uni team has, probably 20MPH or so on impact, into some tall grass after getting thrown off on a bumpy road (terrible suspension - my car is stable at 80 on the freeway, that thing makes me nervous at 35 in the city). No damage save for me being a little shaken, and a few scratches and bugs on the hood. That's one hell of a curb attack in your case though.
I feel like these cars are designed to completely fall apart on impact. Anything to save the driver and get good crash ratings, which is a good thing for the most part. What these photos don't show are the many bits of plastic that came from whoknowswhere.
localhostrulez wrote:
Edit: Honestly, I wasn't a fan of VW's cars even before the emissions scandal broke out. Hondas and Subis are nice though. Actually, I thought about getting an Impreza or Legacy - ended up with the Civic though, mainly for MPG/cost reasons (apples to oranges, it's one of the smallest/cheapest economy cars I happen to like).
Honda's lineup looks impressive as of late. A few of my friends have Subarus and swear by them as well.


gigafinger wrote:
Let's hope that Number 2 did not cause more damage to the vehicle. Tow guys don't give a ****.
I hope so. I don't know much but he seemed gentle enough. I did rush to take pictures before towing for this reason though.


ludi wrote:
Dude, sorry about that! Bummer of a way to kick off your Friday.
Indeed! Physics breaks for no one though, and this is squarely my fault. I'm very thankful no one else was involved!
ludi wrote:
Cost: Kind of depends on what broke. If the parts and pieces are okay and it just popped or broke clips and damaged the steel wheels, you're probably looking at $2000-2500 for a professional restoration including repainting the front clip and blending the hood and fenders.
Eep... that seems simultaneously reasonable and expensive.
ludi wrote:
The hood damage appears old (I see rust) but the adjuster may decide to include it in the writeup because paint work will be required on it regardless.
Spot on. A deer came out of nowhere years ago so that's a 40mph deer buttprint you see there. The deer actually broke the headlight and front fender clips, so that may have primed the front for the rest of the carnage there today. I'm also afraid that the hood is ever so slightly warped from said deer and will be added to the repair costs. It closed properly before, if more snugly.
ludi wrote:
If the impact physically broke mounting points for the fascia and headlights or deformed a bunch of suspension hardware, they will probably write it off as a total loss but sell it at auction where it will be picked up and repaired by a budget car dealer using junkyard salvage. Alternately, if you want to do that yourself, the adjuster may offer you the write-off value minus a buyback, and you can then get a minimal repair done for cheap at a local shop or Maaco.
Huh. That's something I'll ask about. This thing was probably only worth twice of what it is now as salvage.
Thanks for all the input, ludi!

dmjifn wrote:
Ha ha. Sorry, but glad you're OK. And glad you had this experience in a car you can, in the long run, afford to total.
Ditto! I'm happy I am mad instead of hurt. This is/was my first car and there was no way I was getting something expensive straight out of college. And that sort of paid off. Learning to use a brake would be cheaper, though.
dmjifn wrote:
Ludi speaks wise about buying your car back as an option - at least if you're the kind of person who is handy, tolerant, and even has a soft spot for clunkers. The car could turn out great after a repair. It depends on what kind of owner/driver you are. If you just want transportation without hassle, I would probably stay away if they total it.
I don't want to do it myself, but maybe I can find a local shop who will.
dmjifn wrote:
As for VWs - au contraire! IMO, they're still OK cars. Even the gasoline fueled ones may be heavily discounted in the scandal - this may be the perfect time to pick up a VW. FWIW, I test drove a Kia Soul and they're a lot nicer than you'd expect if you'd never been in one. The dealer I went to is *still* trying to clear out 2015s, so you might find a deal on a new one within your budget.
I have driven two VWs and I really liked the way they handled (especially a 7 speed automatic Passat through the Swiss Alps a year ago), but I'm most worried about maintenance and reliability. A few of my friends have had problems with their Jettas. But given the scandals I think you're right--it'd be worth considering. I'd get a gasoline car anyway.
dmjifn wrote:
In fact, while you're waiting on your insurance adjustor, why don't you hit up family members to see if they have any car they'd part with cheap? Or do some window shopping on Craigslist?
Oh don't worry, I've already started dreaming inbetween bursts of work!


localhostrulez wrote:
I rode in a coworker's Kia Sportage - very, very smooth. No idea about the long-term reliability though.
A friend of mine also got a Kia, I'm definitely open to them because their warranty sounds great.


Deanjo wrote:
A lot of Nissans have no rear camber adjustment. If you need a rear wheel alignment then the frame, rear suspension or unibody is bent. If that is the case, the car is a write off.
The only thing wrong with the rear wheels is I blame them for causing this in the first place! :D


Aranarth wrote:
[very helpful educated guesses] ... That's the most my untrained eyes can see from the pics.
If they do total it out, I guarantee that someone will salvage it.
Since it was wobbled to the wrecker I doubt its all that bad.
Thanks for the internet assessment. You listed out more than I could. Maybe I should have popped the hood to see more. I'll report back on Monday with the official damages!
Aranarth wrote:
In this case I backed it into the guardrail with a mighty bang.
I just out and took a look and it only cracked the tail light and gave me a nice uniform divot in the driver's rear quarter panel.
I clearly don't pray to the same car gods as you, but hopefully they have some benevolence left for me.


NovusBogus wrote:
I had a bit worse version of that a few years ago, except it involved a lot of really cold powdery snow and a concrete dividing wall. In my case it was a no-brainer because the car didn't have repair insurance and the few thousand to fix something like that would been far more than the value of the car. The car itself is undoubtedly repairable, but the insurance guy is likely going to want to write it off.
I'm figuring a writeoff is coming, too.
NovusBogus wrote:
I drive a Mazda 6 and like it. If you're buying new, consider a compact hatchback if you want both fuel efficiency and the ability to carry light cargo.
My fiancee has a hatchback Versa and it beats the heck out of mine for utility (even before this morning). I'm sold on hatchbacks.

Thank you all for all your replies so far!!
Last edited by Duct Tape Dude on Fri Oct 02, 2015 2:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
 
HorseIicious
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 2:38 pm

ludi wrote:
s for VWs - au contraire! IMO, they're still OK cars. Even the gasoline fueled ones may be heavily discounted in the scandal - this may be the perfect time to pick up a VW.


This

localhostrulez wrote:
A lot of Nissans have no rear camber adjustment. If you need a rear wheel alignment then the frame, rear suspension or unibody is bent. If that is the case, the car is a write off.


And this

Also depends on how much you're going to get from your insurance and if you think you could/would drive the repaired car long enough to make it worth while. I would look at it as though you're spending $X on a new car (whatever insurance will pay - KBB/Actual Cash Value if totaled). If it's not totaled, consider taking the check for the quoted repair costs (if that's permitted in your state), as well as whatever you can get for the car as-is (to a salvage or repair shop), and seeing what kind of alternative you can acquire with those funds. Make the best choice for you based on features, mileage, and how many years you anticipate being able to drive each vehicle.
 
Duct Tape Dude
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 2:43 pm

HorseIicious wrote:
Also depends on how much you're going to get from your insurance and if you think you could/would drive the repaired car long enough to make it worth while. I would look at it as though you're spending $X on a new car (whatever insurance will pay - KBB/Actual Cash Value if totaled). If it's not totaled, considered taking the check for the quoted repair costs (if that's permitted in your state), as well as whatever you can get for the car as-is (I would guess at least $500), and seeing what kind of alternative you can acquire with those funds. Make the best choice for you based on features, mileage, and how many years you anticipate being able to drive each vehicle.

Yeah this is a delicate balance where I might really need to make a spreadsheet or find some peer pressure. The car has 55k miles on it and is 5 years old, which I think that's about 30-50% through its reliable life. The thing is if I get a new car it'd probably have fancier things like traction control and blind spot indicators, which are two things I'd very like. What a cost-benefit analysis this will be!
 
Atradeimos
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 3:02 pm

ludi wrote:
Cost: Kind of depends on what broke. If the parts and pieces are okay and it just popped or broke clips and damaged the steel wheels, you're probably looking at $2000-2500 for a professional restoration including repainting the front clip and blending the hood and fenders.


Yep, yep. If anything that's metal under the hood broke or bent, like engine mounts, radiator mounts, control arms... It's probably a write off. The car should be worth ~$5k (?) after a repair, so I assume insurance would still fund a $2k repair. The impact was to the front wheels and the lower part of the front bumper, correct? If the suspension is still doing okay, I suspect it will be repairable.

Glad you're still doing fine btw. I assume you have a model without traction control? It may not have rescued a four wheel skid anyway...

Just for reference, this was about a $6k job ($3k parts/$3k labor) on my Subaru after replacing headlight, bumper, fender, hood, wheel, radiator support, control arm and some door bits:

Image
 
Duct Tape Dude
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 3:08 pm

Atradeimos wrote:
The impact was to the front wheels and the lower part of the front bumper, correct? If the suspension is still doing okay, I suspect it will be repairable.
I hope the axle and suspension are ok but it's hard to say. I think the tires took the brunt of the force, honestly.
Atradeimos wrote:
Glad you're still doing fine btw. I assume you have a model without traction control? It may not have rescued a four wheel skid anyway...
Thanks. No traction control, and at first it was more of a 2-wheel skid after a bump. The front maintained traction for a little longer (it was around a turn). I know it won't prevent stupidity but I'd like traction control for my next car.
Atradeimos wrote:
Just for reference, this was about a $6k job
Oh boy. I think that's more than my car is worth and I think I have more damage.
 
dmjifn
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 3:16 pm

Duct Tape Dude wrote:
No traction control, and at first it was more of a 2-wheel skid after a bump. The front maintained traction for a little longer (it was around a turn). I know it won't prevent stupidity but I'd like traction control for my next car.

I am not a car expert but, IMO, you're overplaying the role TC might have played. I had TC in my Passat for more than a decade and see the TC light every time it's engaged - IMO it would not have helped from your description. Good judgement and quality tires were probably all you needed here.
 
BiffStroganoffsky
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 3:28 pm

That will buff right out...! :)

You will want a professional buffer and that will set you back some $5-6K. :(

If you don't care for the superficial part(s) of the car and just want mechanicals, have it taken to a garage to repair the suspension instead of a body shop. Since the bags did not deploy, you are still in compliance and can opt to duct tape the front end together and keep driving...after repairing the front suspension. Looks like mostly labor and perhaps a control arm and ball joint or two. Get some better tires while you are at it.
 
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 3:45 pm

dmjifn wrote:
Duct Tape Dude wrote:
No traction control, and at first it was more of a 2-wheel skid after a bump. The front maintained traction for a little longer (it was around a turn). I know it won't prevent stupidity but I'd like traction control for my next car.

I am not a car expert but, IMO, you're overplaying the role TC might have played. I had TC in my Passat for more than a decade and see the TC light every time it's engaged - IMO it would not have helped from your description. Good judgement and quality tires were probably all you needed here.



Remember that there is traction control, which helps you drive forward, and stability control which helps you avoid accidents like you had. Not all cars have both, and not all systems work the same.

That said, I can vouch that both systems work well for what they do, and having both is a night and day difference to not having either. I have had many vehicles without, and three now (including my motorcycle) that have both traction and stability control, and there is a huge difference in slippery conditions. Just from what you describe, I would venture that having both traction and stability control, you wouldn't have experienced a crash.

On front wheel cars, there is one other aspect many people neglect... the tires. Are your front tires better traction wise than the back? Often people replace the front thinking they need them for traction, but that is the worst thing you can do... if your front tires outbreak the rear on a curve, it will actually cause your car to spin.
 
BiffStroganoffsky
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 4:53 pm

Oh yeah...when you lose traction, stay off the brakes and steer into the slide to regain traction. It is kind of counter-intuitive, like counter-steering, but if you are already sliding, there is no friction to make the brakes work anyways.

And since you lost road contact over a bump, sounds like time for new shocks/struts too.
 
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 4:59 pm

i hate them curbs, it broke 3 of my toes, still feel pain after 3 years.

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Captain Ned
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 5:35 pm

http://blog.caranddriver.com/oh-snap-21 ... l-springs/

Might want to see if this played a role as well.

As for the rear end breaking loose, your Versa still has a torsion-beam rear suspension. They don't like bumps.
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JustAnEngineer
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 5:41 pm

Car and Driver wrote:
The Versa is built to be America’s cheapest car, so if you want a cheap new car, here it is; if you like to drive, keep shopping. The Versa has insultingly flimsy materials. Its wimpy 109-hp 1.6-liter engine makes for slow acceleration but is reasonably fuel efficient.... The Versa, then, remains a cheap new car for people who would otherwise be driving a used car. We can think of better ways to spend an automotive allowance, no matter how modest it may be.

Rank In Subcompacts
1. Scion iA $16,495 - $17,595 (This car is sold as the Mazda 2 outside the U.S.)
2. Honda Fit $16,470 - $21,745
3. Ford Fiesta $15,330 - $19,680
4. Chevrolet Sonic $15,070 - $22,770
5. Toyota Yaris $15,680 - $18,455
6. Hyundai Accent $15,570 - $34,350
7. Chevrolet Spark $13,095 - $17,360
12. Nissan Versa Price: $12,815 - $18,415

Duct Tape Dude wrote:
What makes/models would you recommend in the "couple with a little stuff" category, and/or what should I avoid? I'd like to keep it well under $18k if possible.
The Honda Fit is a very good vehicle. I also suggest taking lightly-used Mazda 3 and Ford Focus hatchbacks for test drives.

Car and Driver wrote:
If they ever put us in charge, the Honda Fit will be mankind’s hatchback. Since it appeared on the scene in 2006, the fun-size Honda has been our reflexive recommendation for pretty much everybody on a budget.

Rank In Compacts
1. Mazda 3 Price: $17,765 - $27,415
2. Volkswagen Golf $18,815 - $30,315
3. Volkswagen Jetta $17,035 - $31,940
4. Ford Focus $18,045 - $24,545
5. Kia Forte $16,715 - $22,715
6. Honda Civic $19,110 - $30,210
7. Toyota Corolla $17,785 - $23,790
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 5:57 pm

Given the price of the car it's a likely total, but you'll know soon enough after the adjuster looks at it.

I've had to spend a lot of time in rentals and I have to say the Versa isn't as bad as Car and Driver makes it out to be, I'd rather drive it over some of the other vehicles I've been in but I still wouldn't own one...
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DrDominodog51
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 6:02 pm

A Fiat 500 Sport is in your price range (at it's base model price). I have a 500 Sport and it's really fun to drive. There's a fair bit of trunk space in it too.
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MarkG509
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 6:40 pm

Duct Tape Dude wrote:
I managed my first rapid unplanned disassembly this morning.

Ahh, a little Duct Tape will fix that right up, Dude. The car is even (close enough to) the right color :wink:
 
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 6:59 pm

I think they'll total it and they won't give you much for it. Good luck.

Don't buy a Chevrolet or any other crap-on-wheels. Everybody who gets in front of me and then applies the brake risking having my bumper surgically attached to their aftmost sphincter lately has been driving a Chevy. Or a VW. Or a Buick. Or a Chrysler. Or a Dodge. Yes, even Chargers!

So don't be one of those.

Seriously, Toyotas and Hondas seem to hold up well to multiple owners. I actually like Carmax for selling and buying used vehicles; have bought one from them and sold two to them. Carmax is a bit more expensive than making a private purchase, but they generally don't sell lemons and they'll give you a carfax report on anything in their lots. Even when they're Chevys.

And Carmax has a nice app that makes it easy to search for stuff, so even if you decide to just go private purchase, you could still use Carmax.com to make price comparisons.
 
Captain Ned
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 7:07 pm

Also, given that you showed enough of the front plate to confirm your state of residence, Subaru is in the picture and you better have snow tires.

Only way to bling a Versa is to pay extra for the old-style plate.
What we have today is way too much pluribus and not enough unum.
 
Atradeimos
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 7:48 pm

Captain Ned wrote:
Only way to bling a Versa is to pay extra for the old-style plate.


Image

That hellaflush mad tyte <tm> suspension setup lets you meet curb attacks head on.
 
just brew it!
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 8:57 pm

Sorry to hear about your "really bad day". The damage doesn't look too bad, but a 6YO Versa is probably not worth much to begin with, so I'm going to guess totaled here.

OTOH, I wrecked a 15YO Altima last year, and was surprised (to the high side) at how much it was supposedly still worth according to the insurance company. I sure wouldn't have paid that much for the vehicle pre-wreck.

OTOOH, Altima vs. Versa is a bit of an apples/oranges comparison, even though they're both Nissans...
Nostalgia isn't what it used to be.
 
HorseIicious
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Re: When Curbs Attack

Fri Oct 02, 2015 9:58 pm

Duct Tape Dude wrote:
What a cost-benefit analysis this will be!


Indeed, it will be.

One last bit of unsolicited advice. In my car buying experiences I've always preferred 2-3 year old vehicles with low miles and 1-2 years left on the factory warranty - and from a private seller if you're really lucky. However, a lot of cars nowadays are only 3yr/36k bumper to bumper (although some do have a little extended for powertrain portions only). I believe the aforementioned VW's are like that (only 3yr/36k bumper-bumper, but have a 5yr/60k on powertrain only) - which could really leave you with some interesting options if prices drop on VW resales.

Good luck!

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