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The 10" barrels range between $100-$180 from what I've seen. The UZI features a quick change barrel, so you just unscrew the barrel nut with your hand, slide out the old, and pop in the new, and screw the nut tight. A child could do it in less than 20 seconds. I am really tempted to put this on a Form 1.

http://up-ship.com/blog/?p=27080

How not to clear a bullet jammed in the barrel.

Suspect. First, nobody shoots FMJ round nose bullets in a .357. Second theee are eight of them in he barrel. Most squibs that get stuck are either blown out by the following bullet (thus bulging the barrel) or the barrel goes boom. With .357 pressures one of the two should have happened. Unless these were mouse fart squibs somebody handloaded. Cool pic regardless.

S&W makes at least one 8-shot revolver in .357[1], and perhaps the barrel did bulge but the failed section was cut off to give the cutaway view. IDK. Could this happen if the bullet was the wrong size or type?

[1] http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/wcs/ ... rrorView_Y

Barrel was clearly sectioned with a band saw, the cutting grooves are evident. It's also bulged at the base of bullet #6 (counting from muzzle). As for .357 Mag in FMJ:

http://www.sportsmansguide.com/productl ... 4294967234

Aren't there indoor ranges that require fully-jacketed rounds to reduce lead contamination?

During my hunter safety course the instructor showed us a rifle barrel that the previous owner had attempted to clean using a file, because he didn't want to spend the money on a cleaning rod. It got stuck and he attempted to remove it using another file, with predictable results.

bthylafh wrote:

Aren't there indoor ranges that require fully-jacketed rounds to reduce lead contamination?

Many.

That model .357 is not an 8 shot. Also, I said FMJ round nose. There's no way that was factory ammo, and someone who handloads knows better. I guess it's possible, just unlikely.

http://www.healyarms.com/armscor-handgu ... fmjbx.html

The one thing I can't find is an 8-shot S&W Model x29 with an 8" barrel (it's clearly an x29).

You guys need to jump on this.

https://www.czechpoint-usa.com//vz-52-p ... dition?l=1

An unissued piece of Cold War history, *with* replacement parts. I'd buy one, if I didn't already have one.

Vrock wrote:

You guys need to jump on this.

I appreciate the heads-up, but the last thing I need is a gun in yet another caliber.

Vrock wrote:

You guys need to jump on this.

https://www.czechpoint-usa.com//vz-52-p ... dition?l=1

An unissued piece of Cold War history, *with* replacement parts. I'd buy one, if I didn't already have one.

awesome deal!

but I already gave CZ some money today, bought a CZ-97B.. awesome gun, shoots so soft.. pics to come!

Darkmage wrote:

Vrock wrote:

You guys need to jump on this.

I appreciate the heads-up, but the last thing I need is a gun in yet another caliber.

OK, but consider:

1) They aren't making any more of these.
2) It has bonafide Cold War credentials.
3) It's brand new, but 60 years old.
4) The 7.62 Tokarev is a really cool cartridge.
5) The price is right.

Vrock wrote:

Suspect. First, nobody shoots FMJ round nose bullets in a .357. Second theee are eight of them in he barrel. Most squibs that get stuck are either blown out by the following bullet (thus bulging the barrel) or the barrel goes boom. With .357 pressures one of the two should have happened. Unless these were mouse fart squibs somebody handloaded. Cool pic regardless.

Why no round nose FMJ?

The .38's I use are like those, but yes the .357 I use are semi-wadcutter's

Just curious

Roundnose FMJ is rare in revolvers because it serves no purpose, as revolvers don't have the chambering concerns that semi-automatic pistols do. Better to shoot a semi wad cutter, or flat point bullet, or hollow point vs. a FMJ RN.

Captain Ned wrote:

http://up-ship.com/blog/?p=27080

How not to clear a bullet jammed in the barrel.

Holy Cow Ned, they were super lucky in many ways. 1st off since a revolver has the barrel separated from the rounds and a bit of space for pressure to escape. Also that revolver has a pretty darn thick barrel as do most revolvers compared to a semi auto pistol barrel.
Plus a huge amount of luck.

I wonder if it even kicked back properly, I would not think so but?
Also I figure they were probably shooting 38 special rounds since they have less chamber pressure but ya never know?

My latest addition, CZ-97B, pre-2013 version, with thin aluminum grips. Its a fairly soft shooter with 230g rounds, I am still getting used to her.

Vrock wrote:

You guys need to jump on this.

https://www.czechpoint-usa.com//vz-52-p ... dition?l=1

An unissued piece of Cold War history, *with* replacement parts. I'd buy one, if I didn't already have one.

Still considering a 40 S&W single action single stack, but I couldn't resist the outstanding engineering, spare parts, and free shipping. Thought about getting a C&R license, but didn't want to risk missing this deal, so the local shop will be getting their thirty pieces of silver for my back ground check.

Wondering what you would recommend for break-in ammo / brass stock? I'm leaning toward the Czech (S&B) over the Serb (PPU). Midway has them both for $21.49 a box. Four boxes and a set of Lee dies would put me over the $100 mark for their twenty dollar black Friday discount which is good until December first.

Nice grab. Any factory ammo should work. The S&B is probably loaded a bit hotter than the PPU. I've shot both with good results.

There's a new brand called Red Army Standard that makes 7.62 Tok in steel cased ammo. It's about $3 cheaper per box than the brass stuff. I haven't used any personally.

Let us know how it shoots. Reloading for the 7.62 Tok can be a bit of a challenge. The Lee sizing die and flare die are okay, but their seating die is crap. Makes it very hard to seat bullets straight. I use a set of Redding dies for the 7.63 Mauser and they work like a champ.

I've had good luck with Starline brass and PPU brass for reloading. The Starline stuff is shorter than spec, but works fine.

Thanks for the info. I will order two boxes of both S&B and PPU for some in depth testing. Midway currently lists the Starline brass as an out of stock seasonal item. One of the user reviews stated that the necks were much tighter than .308 and he had to use his 300 AAC expander button to open them to the correct diameter since the Lee decaper pin has no expander button. I hope to use the decaper/expander from my 30.06 small base die set if needed.

The Romanian Red Army Standard is listed as non-corrosive berdan primed, but extracting berdan primers always looked like a pain and the idea of slamming steel cases into the vz52's near virgin chamber makes me a little queasy.

I plan to reload with Hornady XTP 90 grain .309 JHPs at a leisurely 1300 to 1400 fps velocity and tune for best accuracy. I never tire of zippy hollow point meets gallon water jug. If I have seating issues I will probably try a little re-profiling with a dremel grinding ball or track down a 7.63 Mauser seating stem.

P.S. edit - The local shop called today, but I was under the weather from a bad Thanksgiving restaurant meal. I hope to pick up my package tomorrow.

farmpuma wrote:

Thanks for the info. I will order two boxes of both S&B and PPU for some in depth testing. Midway currently lists the Starline brass as an out of stock seasonal item. One of the user reviews stated that the necks were much tighter than .308 and he had to use his 300 AAC expander button to open them to the correct diameter since the Lee decaper pin has no expander button. I hope to use the decaper/expander from my 30.06 small base die set if needed.

Nah. You don't need a separate expander. If you set the Lee powder thru expanding die to just bell the mouth of the case, the bullet will go right in. Don't bell it too much, or you'll get poor neck tension.

farmpuma wrote:

The Romanian Red Army Standard is listed as non-corrosive berdan primed, but extracting berdan primers always looked like a pain and the idea of slamming steel cases into the vz52's near virgin chamber makes me a little queasy.

Well, first of all steel cased stuff is non-reloadable, regardless of primer type. Secondly, you aren't going to hurt your CZ-52 with steel cased ammo. The steel used for ammo is a very mild, soft type. Yes, it's harder than brass, but the chamber of your barrel is many times harder. I wouldn't worry about it.

farmpuma wrote:

I plan to reload with Hornady XTP 90 grain .309 JHPs at a leisurely 1300 to 1400 fps velocity and tune for best accuracy. I never tire of zippy hollow point meets gallon water jug. If I have seating issues I will probably try a little re-profiling with a dremel grinding ball or track down a 7.63 Mauser seating stem.

I have reloaded with these and will not do so again. These might be the only Hornady bullets I've found that are not good. Here's the problem: the ogive on these bullets suck. Basically, you have to seat the bullet too deep in order to keep the bullet from hitting the lands of the rifling when chambered. I have this problem in both TT-33s I have, as well as my CZ-52. That causes potentially dangerous pressures unless you drastically download the ammo. If you don't seat deeply, you might run into chambering issues too. If you're going to use these bullets, seat them so they pass the drop test, and start 10% below starting loads in a reputable manual.

Hornady does make an 86 gr soft nose .308 bullet that doesn't have this problem, but I have had the occasional feeding issue with these in my pistols and my PPS-43C. YMMV.

The best bullets I've found for reloading 7.62 Tok are the Sierra Sportsmaster 85 grn RN. They're more expensive than the Hornadys, and difficult to find in stock as they're a seasonal run, but they work great. Plan on spending $22 for a box of 100. Bottom line is that reloading the 7.62 Tok is barely cost effective and has its challenges. I might stop doing it, honestly, if I can get a bulk buy of Red Army Standard.

So finally sold my M&P 22... yesterday held a new Sig P320.. oh baby.. damn this disease!

BTW I blame all of you on the forum!

I tried a few guns today, Sig P250, some new Swiss 9mm, and Glock 17 G4..

I was all set to buy a P320, then I bought a Glock 34 G4 lol.

Its different than my CZ for sure, but I like it!

I tried a "race" G34 of one of the range officers, basically stock with 3.5# connector, tungsten guide rod, and better trigger spring. Really nice.

For now putting rounds through her, and trying different backstraps.

So yeah, I didn't know Glocks are so easy to mod.. a few mins to switch trigger and springs..cool stuff..

Just so no one is worried.. I still love my full metal guns

Glocks. Oh boy.

Vrock wrote:

Glocks. Oh boy.

Can I ask why the dislike? I am assuming because they are more like appliances and lack soul? I get that.

I find them boring and ugly, and overrated.

elmopuddy wrote:

So yeah, I didn't know Glocks are so easy to mod.. a few mins to switch trigger and springs..cool stuff..
Just so no one is worried.. I still love my full metal guns

Welcome to the dark side! We have cookies (and accessories).

When you get done eating cookies and putting tacticool stuff on your reliable, accurate, and relatively inexpensive black plastic guns, here's a blog entry on an interesting firearm (read: not a Glock).

http://armedbutnotdangerous.blogspot.co ... m1916.html

Vrock wrote:

When you get done eating cookies and putting tacticool stuff on your reliable, accurate, and relatively inexpensive black plastic guns, here's a blog entry on an interesting firearm (read: not a Glock).

http://armedbutnotdangerous.blogspot.co ... m1916.html

No tacticool stuff, just adjusting the trigger a bit

Can't wait to ready your latest enrty