Canoli I have to agree with sluggo. MY PSU is 4 years old and is a seasonic produced TX850v2 watt unit produced for Corsair and I have had my CPU and GPU overclocked since day 1 including the 2 SLI'ed EVGA GTX 560 Ti SuperClocked cards running at 1ghz on the cores and I think 2400 on the memory with a .1v voltage bump for stability that are now replaced with the 2 4GB SLI'ed EVGA GTX 770 Classifieds running at 111% power on both cards, stock volts on primary card and 1.2v on secondary card with a very small overclock so they both boost sustained and never throttle below 1280mhz core and the 4gb of memory memory is running at 7996 mhz and my fans on my profile go aggressively from 29% in a steep arc to 100% at 55c...just checked my 24/7 setting I use with EVGA's Precision X software. I also have a movie watching setting that keep the fans below 45% to 75c but they never break that even though my MadVr settings do use 99% GPU usage it just is not like a gaming 99% load with over 2gb of Vram being used.
I wish I could have Johnny Guru come to my house and test my PSU and see what wattage my PSU can do after 4 years of 24/7 use.
In fact Canoli you should visit his site and see if he reviewed your particular PSU. If so he will tell you who made it for Corsair and will have it taken apart to see what components were used in its contruction and let you know if they are good components or bad, solder job, How it works cold, How it works Hot, power ripple under load...the works. He is very informative. I got lucky when I purchased my Tx-850 v2 I had no idea it was made by seasonic....but I read his original TX850 v1 review that was not a seasonic unit and it got great marks so I figured I could not go wrong with Corsairs V2 version and Luckily seasonic made it whoo hoo:)
Anyway here is Johnnys review of your Professional grade HX-850
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?na ... y&reid=153Well it states it will last 100,000 hours and if you have ran it 24/7 for 5 years that would be only 43,800 hours. It also has a nice 140mm adjustable fan according to the load/temp on the unit, I like that feature Now that my PC is right next to me. Voltage ripple is quote:Outstanding. If I were choosing my next power supply based on ripple suppression alone, I'd be mighty tempted to say, "So long Delta plan!" fantastically efficient
12V ripple suppression second only to a very few high end units
very, very stable regulation
Rated 9.6 outta 10 it is a fantastic PSU....read the article you might want to tighten the loose screws that you possible have. I did it to mine it was very easy I didnt even have to unplug my MB or Graphics cards...just do it on a big enough table that it does not fall and jerk on your connections! That could be very bad.
You have no worries, enjoy the extra Cuda power and use a SLI bridge
When I have time I will click on that link and mess around maybe and see what my puny 4GB 770's can do. "Big extra wide slightly flabby 770 guy flexes next to a 780 body builder with no body fat " My 770s are like 1.5-2" wider than a stock 780 and have 14 power phases
, also a stock 780 has 6 power phases for the core and probably 2 for 6gb of memory.
I am curious, what case are you running and what brand 780's and cooler type....Blower, open air? If your case has spots for side panel fans the type of 780's you have will let me know if the side panel fans should be on intake or exhaust. If they are blowers intake all day long without a worry, If they are open air the best fan configuration could be exhaust or intake depending on which way the fins run on the cards heatsink. This is why I am asking for the exact brand case and cards. I am concerned since I had a real problem with my huge 6 heatpipe Classified cards running over 80c and hitting 90+ on occation with 2 120mm fans blowing in right on the cards and 18c ambient temps! That lasted a whole 2 days but It turned out my 2 Cougar Vortex 120mm intake fans focused so much airflow at the side of my graphics cards that were trying to expel the heat towards the side panel and motherboard making a dead spot on a large area of the heatsinks that have 2 92mm fans trying to push air away from the card......switching the fans to exhaust dropped temps 20-25c. This is why I ask since a cooler running card or CPU in fact uses less voltage than a hot ones...same goes for PSU's, the hotter they are the more voltage they pull from the wall to give you the same wattage lowering your PSU efficiency.
Also I cannot recommend the Cooler Master Nepton 140xl AIO cooler enough, for the 89$ I spent on it with 2 Jetflow 140mm fans in push pull configuration that are silent when controlled by the CPU fan header running between 700 and 1100 rpms it is pretty inaudible and my soldered on IHS is transferring the heat so good. At 4660mhz at 1.345 v @ 19c ambient I am idling at 22c and loaded with Intel BT2 not breaking 57c at 1100rpms. I am sure your i7-980 would run super cool with its soldered on IHS and the Nepton 140XL has a 38mm thick radiator a huge copper cold plate with extra micro fins that surpass the DIY cooling blocks, along with a extra powerful pump hooked to about the largest diameter Coolant lines on the market right now. With as thick as the radiator is and being 140mm it is like having a 240mm radiator for the most part, but having the high static pressure fans in push pull makes up for the extra thick radiator big time.
So how did you like my book Canoli? Does it need much more work?
I have been working all week 10-12hr shifts so I have been flopping and passing out right after I eat when I get home.
2600k@4848mhz @1.4v CM Nepton40XL 16gb Ram 2x EVGA GTX770 4gb Classified cards in SLI@1280mhz Stock boost on a GAP67-UD4-B3, SBlaster Z powered by TX-850 PSU pushing a 34" LG 21/9 3440-1440 IPS panel. Pieced together 2.1 sound system