ClickClick5 wrote:My fellow Gerbils, welcome to nerd porn.
I admit to being mildly aroused.
Personal computing discussed
Moderators: renee, Flying Fox, morphine
ClickClick5 wrote:My fellow Gerbils, welcome to nerd porn.
chuckula wrote:ColeLT1 wrote:Chuckula, I read an interesting article, and trying my best to find it again, that they tested all forms of different TIMs, and the intel's ranked up with the best. They posted temps and results, then culprit was not the TIM, but the black epoxy gluing the IHS to the board creates too large of a gap between the IHS and core. They removed all the epoxy and put the IHS back on without touching the TIM, then removed the IHS and tested with high quality TIMs between the IHS and core, and saw equal temps to high quailty TIM, and much lower temps than stock.
Granted, solder would be better than any TIM.
I'd be very interested to give that a read if you locate it! I'm definitely onboard with the theory that it is the glue that introduces a gap between the IHS and the die.. and air gaps are killer no matter what kind of TIM you are using.
Speaking of temperatures, surely people will be saying “Haswell has the same problem as Ivy Bridge,” referring to the thermal paste issue. Yes, Haswell has thermal paste, but from Very Authoritative People, the TIM is not the problem. As has been posited across the net when people de-lid Ivy Bridge chips with great results, it’s really the black adhesive that’s the culprit. When you cut out that adhesive, it allows the IHS to sit closer to the CPU die, meaning there is less thermal paste through which the heat has to travel, leading to significantly lower temperatures. Intel’s TIM is really quite good, but the manufacturing process leads to that glue being just a little too thick, which is why you see such temperatures.
vargis14 wrote:Chuck!!!!! You should use Coollaboratorys liquid metal instead of past between the CPU and the IHS. It is the closet thing to solder.
Whatever you do just do not get it on anything aluminum. It's will literally destroy aluminum.
vargis14 wrote:Chuck!!!!! You should use Coollaboratorys liquid metal instead of past between the CPU and the IHS. It is the closet thing to solder.
Whatever you do just do not get it on anything aluminum. It's will literally destroy aluminum.
Firestarter wrote:26C at idle, nice!
Thanks for taking the dive and making pictures along the way!
vargis14 wrote:I like the placement of the radiator, especially since you did it on intake pushing and pulling air into the case. Helps the CPU stay cooler since in guarantees the coolest air possible and the air does not get heated much from the radiator at all. A tower air cooler say like a cooler master 212 throws some heat off big time like a gpu cooler.
Also the SSD placement is sweet.
Btw even though my 2600k rig is still awesome I have to say I am a bit jealous and happy for you. I would be less jealous if I had both those SSDs and your graphics card:)
derFunkenstein wrote:So here's a dumb question - do you put the cap back on without the adhesive layer so that it's all closer together, or do you just apply your heatsink/water block to the naked chip?
Waco wrote:AS5 isn't the best choice for under the heatspreader IMO. I have some Liquid Ultra on the way to put under mine...apparently most pastes will either dry out or pump out over time and your temps will skyrocket.
chuckula wrote:
If you knew what I was running now, you'd be less jealous and feel more pity for me! This machine is replacing a Core 2 duo (not quad) system that I built in February of 2008 and has served me very well for over 5 years. Some people upgrade hardware all the time, whereas I do it much more infrequently. This system will probably last a good 5 years, especially with the relative slowdown in new CPU designs. I do intend to upgrade the video card and the storage over the lifespan of the machine. I think it will definitely be able to drive strong discrete GPUs for quite some time.
vargis14 wrote:chuckula wrote:The 1st thing you have to do is change your signature now since you now are in the top 5% bud Then order the Coollaboratory Ultra Liquid Metal stuff. I have watch videos on you tube showing application and it looks very easy to work with for using it between the IHS and CPU die. Heck I would probably use it between the IHS and the Pump also since you will have plenty left and your AIO cooler should have a copper coldplate along with nickle coated recessed screws. So you wont have to worry about re-seating your cooler since metal does not dry out that i know of. Then if you happen to have any Gallium left over put a drop on the top of a used soda can and watch the top disintegrate.
derFunkenstein wrote:So here's a dumb question - do you put the cap back on without the adhesive layer so that it's all closer together, or do you just apply your heatsink/water block to the naked chip?
ColeLT1 wrote:Chuckula, I read an interesting article, and trying my best to find it again, that they tested all forms of different TIMs, and the intel's ranked up with the best. They posted temps and results, then culprit was not the TIM, but the black epoxy gluing the IHS to the board creates too large of a gap between the IHS and core. They removed all the epoxy and put the IHS back on without touching the TIM, then removed the IHS and tested with high quality TIMs between the IHS and core, and saw equal temps to high quailty TIM, and much lower temps than stock.
Granted, solder would be better than any TIM.