MadManOriginal wrote:I am more likely to push the browns past activation to bottom out...
DancinJack wrote:RK was also on my Newegg deals email last night. 65 bux i think.
Mkilbride wrote:The reason for MIR is because studies show over 85% of people do not bother with MIR's. Yet are 100% more likely to buy items with MIR because of a MIR.
Insanity, I know.
MarkG509 wrote:Speaking of MX Reds, Newegg just put out a Shell Shocker for a Cooler Master CM Storm Quick Fire TK for $65 after $5 MIR. Looks like it has red back-lighting.
I have no experience with those keyboards (and really dislike rebates, can't they just lower the price and save the trouble).
I value them at 0.00000001¢ when I rank purchase options in SBA threads.ChronoReverse wrote:Which is why I basically ignore MIRs =)Mkilbride wrote:The reason for MIR is because studies show over 85% of people do not bother with MIR's. Yet are 100% more likely to buy items with MIR because of a MIR. Insanity, I know.
JustAnEngineer wrote: I value them at 0.00000001¢ when I rank purchase options in SBA threads.
Definitely.just brew it! wrote:Practice on some wire scraps first.
MarkG509 wrote:Definitely.just brew it! wrote:Practice on some wire scraps first.
It's also a good idea to "tin" the soldering iron before first use. Let it get hot, then melt the solder around the tip of the iron. Coat it well, then with a damp paper towel or sponge, wipe off the excess. Expect it to sizzle. The tip should be thinly coated with shiny clean solder when you're done, and will look like a chrome paint job. This helps the iron transfer heat to the solder and the components, and helps the solder flow onto the components instead of sticking to the iron when you apply it to the components. Basically, it makes soldering more predictable and controllable.
Redo this tinning step whenever starting any soldering job. It will also help you judge just how much (but not too much) heat it takes to get the solder to melt and flow.
Most soldering iron kits come with a small sponge. Soak the sponge with water, and if you find solder accumulating on the tip, wipe any excess off onto the wet sponge and it should look like it did after tinning. If your iron didn't come with a sponge, keep some wet paper towels handy instead.
If you were not using rosin-core solder, you'd want to paint some flux on the tip before starting the tinning step.
Just note that I'm a "software guy", who gets/likes to tell the h/w guys what they're doing wrong. I hope/expect that the experts will correct me when I'm wrong or clarify as needed.Mkilbride wrote:not really helpful.
Mkilbride wrote: I don't see any pins
There's 2 holes. You need to do one at a time. If you have experience with soldering and know what you are doing, you could try to do both at about the same time, but that's harder.Mkilbride wrote: They're so small, they're IN the PCB..
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