sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

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sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Thu Jun 23, 2011 10:28 am

So I'm super excited for the upcoming game, battlefield 3. I currently have an lga 775 system at 3.6 Ghz (see sig). I believe it is time for a new system!

I'm selling my old system to a friend for 500 dollars, so I'll be starting from scratch (again).

Here's what I have so far, planning on pulling the trigger sometime in the next month, what do you guys think?

I have a 24" Dell monitor that I will be gaming on at 1920x1200 res

Case: Antec Three Hundred Illusion Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case

Mobo: ASRock P67 EXTREME4 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor

RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model

Vid: HIS H695FN2G2M Radeon HD 6950 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card

SSD: Crucial RealSSD C300 CTFDDAC064MAG-1G1 2.5" 64GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)

HDD: Western Digital Caviar Black WD2002FAEX 2TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive

PSU: RAIDMAX HYBRID 2 RX-630SS 630W ATX12V V2.2/ EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready Modular Modular LED Power Supply

Sound Card: ASUS XONAR_DG 5.1 Channels PCI Interface Xonar DG Sound Card

OS: Windows 7 64-bit OEM

I have an old optical drive i plan on using as well.

newegg puts it at 1250. Anyone have any suggestions and/or a recommendation on an aftermarket cpu cooler? I plan on overclocking the cpu to 4.5 Ghz. Also if you have suggestions on the build itself, please tell me!
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Thu Jun 23, 2011 11:38 am

If you're getting an SSD that small, why not get a Z68 board. If you're somehow, mystifyingly, attached to ASRock, they have the Z68 Extreme4 that isn't a whole lot more money. I see the SSD caching scheme as super-effective on the desktop front.

For aftermarket coolers, it's hard to beat a Xigmatek HDT-1283. People around here like Coolermaster's Hyper 212+, which is really honkin' expensive by comparison. I can buy the same cooler for $32 locally, not sure what Newegg is smoking.
Last edited by derFunkenstein on Thu Jun 23, 2011 11:41 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Thu Jun 23, 2011 11:41 am

i7 860 - GA-P55-USB3 - 8GiB - HD7850 - SSD - 3.64TB HDD - Xonar D1 - U2410 - Win7 Pro x64.
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Thu Jun 23, 2011 11:42 am

Or, what DancinJack wrote. I'd just avoid the OCZ drive and drop the CPU back down to the i5 2500K myself.
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Thu Jun 23, 2011 11:46 am

derFunkenstein wrote:Or, what DancinJack wrote. I'd just avoid the OCZ drive and drop the CPU back down to the i5 2500K myself.


I was also going to say something along those lines. Pick up whatever SSD you want and save a few bucks by grabbing the 2500K. The other components though, I'd recommend. I wouldn't skimp on your PSU - especially since you're going to be overclocking. Of course case choice is up to you. The 300 is much less expensive than the 600T.

Some suggestions:

SSD
2TB HD - If you're not putting games on this drive, there isn't really a need to splurge for a WD Black.
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Thu Jun 23, 2011 12:11 pm

Good catch on the PSU. I didn't notice that it was a Raidmax. Not personally a fan, myself. Corsair, Seasonic, and Antec make some beastly modular PSUs, though. A Seasonic M12 620W is more. Alot more, I won't lie. But it's totally worth it. I have a Corsair 550W modular PSU that's not available online anymore. It's ridiculously quiet and sturdy.
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Thu Jun 23, 2011 1:12 pm

I have a few comments, having done something similar recently for my workstation below:

I had to look up the case; aside from my disdain for Antec fans and things with LEDs, it looks like it has better than average cooling. One suggestion to keep your GPU a little quieter would be to put a 120mm intake fan on that side panel, with a filter on the outside. Also note the complete lack of cable routing options behind the board; your build will be a little messier by default, but it's not going to hurt anything.

That ASRock board is the first one I went to before upgrading to the Z68 version for the display outputs; you'll (and others commenting) notice that it's the highest rated P67 board on Newegg. There's a reason for this :). I can say from first hand experience that ASRock got P67 right, and you'll definitely enjoy working with this board; I can't vouch for how much better ASUS' vaunted UEFI implementation is, but I can say that ASRock isn't too far behind.

I went with the 2500k too. While the 2600k's Hyperthreading helps in some applications, games really don't make huge use of those virtual cores; and with an overclock to ~4.5GHz+, who cares.

I went with Corsair RAM because I think that G.Skill's red theme is butt ugly, but it was the same price, and I trust G.Skill as well.

Video card choice is spot on for the money.

Crucial's C300 is a great SATA3 drive, now that the kinks have been worked out. If you must have SATA3 it's either that or Intel's more expensive 510 series, since OCZ is back to it's 'beta-testing on the masses' antics again with the Sandforce 2 drives. If you are more concerned with reliability (I was after a Vertex II died), Intel's 320 series is where it's at.
In either/any case, you'll want more than 64GB, with 120-160GB being preferable. Spending money here sucks, but you're going to have to manage your space, and the more space you have the less inconvenience you'll suffer. I do think derFunk is right here though- while the SSD caching isn't as fast as a real boot SSD, it'll speed things up appreciably and cut down on storage management- the thing is, if you're going to spend more money just to get that feature on a board, you'd might as well just dump it and a little more into a bigger drive, in my opinion. Better to do things right the first time.

For the main drive, you'd might as well go with something quieter than the Black as DancinJack suggests- they're very crunchy drives while seeking and your selected case has only a little mesh between you and the drive cages. Here I prefer WD's 2TB Green if only due to having a pair that are fast enough, solid, quiet and cool. I use one Green drive to back up my SSD, and just move whatever games/applications over to the SSD that I use often.

For the PSU, and the love of all things holy, follow DerFunk's advice- get something besides Raidmax. I'm not saying that it won't work, but the peace of mind here is worth it. I agree with the Seasonic or Corsair recommendation, though I don't see the need for anything modular. If it will save you an appreciable amount you can zip tie the extra cables to the bottom of the case and easily tape them out of the way; it's not like you have a window to show your mess!

I can't comment too much on the sound card- I went with Creative, but I may find myself regretting that decision if I can't get it to do what I need it to. If it doesn't work out I'll be selling to cover my losses and going with an HT Omega eClaro, but I have a specific use; if you're just trying to get better output than the onboard, ASUS seems like a fine and well regarded solution.

For the CPU cooler, derFunk's suggestion is spot on. I used one of these for a friend's i7-860 build back when those were the thing, and it's dead silent. I was able to get 4.2GHz easy under load with Intel's stock HSF, so it's not like you'll need much more to hit 4.5GHz. My 2500k does this wonderfully under stock volts.

My comments on the build overall:

I'd go (and did go!) with a better case. Fractal Design's Define R3 was suggested to me by another forum member, and it's exactly what I was looking for. Since I was using two HD6950's to push a 30" 2560x1600 monitor, the extra cooling options were welcome, and the insulation is wonderful. Having just finished the build I can say that this is one of the better cases I have used in years, and while I did fill it up with fans and add some fan filters (I have the front 120mm fans and the four 140mm fans all set as intakes, with my Corsair H60 and two HD6950's as the only exhausts), this isn't necessary for a one card configuration.

With your resolution, you don't need the 2GB card; you may never need it. I understand why you'd want it though. For reference, back when I had my GTX570 (traded for one of my HD6950's), I was using 1100MB maximum VRAM at 2560x1600, which is almost twice the resolution of a 24" screen. This was with Dragon Age II with all settings turned up except AA, high resolution texture pack installed, and a second 1920x1200 monitor running beside it.

Last, you didn't mention whether or not you're planning on grabbing a second HD6950 down the road- if you are, that definitely affects a few choices now; if you're not, you can save some cash up front. First on the PSU- if you're not going to add a second card, even a decent 450w unit will be overkill. Next, you can save on the board, as you don't need that second PCIe x8 slot; and third, you definitely don't need the 2GB card. If you are, then look for a 650w PSU (you'll run between 400-500w load depending on application and overclock), get the board you listed, and get the 2GB card, as there is some overhead associated with multi-GPU configurations.
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Thu Jun 23, 2011 1:20 pm

I'm having a hard time figuring it out myself, but the Three Hundred in all its various forms appears to have openings near the drive bays to route unused cables (the picture with the door swung open, taken from slightly behind the case, that's how it looks to me). It's not as awesome as the Corsair or your Fractal Design recommendation, but it's better than, say, the Sonata line.
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Thu Jun 23, 2011 1:38 pm

I agree- the recess created by having the 3.5" stack aligned to the left side of the case is perfect for the ATX 24pin; and there's a hole at the bottom of the motherboard that can accommodate front panel connectors (mostly USB, and HD-Audio), if they're long enough. The odd man out is going to be the 8-pin power connector that's usually above the CPU socket. Also, that recess will be prime real estate if you want to hide extra cables and need to make use of all of the 3.5" bays.

Note also that the case is large enough to support the HD6950's, but you'll lose whatever drive bay(s) it/they butt into.
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Thu Jun 23, 2011 1:42 pm

Turning the drive bays 90 degrees is what I totally dig about my CM 690II Advanced, and you're right, you'll lose the drive bays in the 300.
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Thu Jun 23, 2011 4:28 pm

Thank you all for your input, it has raised some very good questions.

On the gpu front. @Airmantharp, if you really think 1GB of VRAM is more than enough for 1920x1200 (with some AA and anisotropic turned on), then I will gladly find a 1GB version of the 6950.

On the storage front, I have looked at Z86 chipset as well, and my question is this: Am I better off doing an SSD for my OS (so it boots quickly) and a couple of often played games? Or should I use the SSD as a cache for the mechanical hard-drive? Anyone have an idea which way is faster for load times on the boot and games? Maybe someone should PM me a quick explanation on intel's smart response technology. While I'm on speed, I went with the WD black and the crucial SSD because they are SATA 6 gb/s capable. Is 6 gb/s SATA for hard drives worth getting?

Furthermore, I do have a lot of stuff I to store media-wise. My original plan was the small SSD for OS and a game or two, and then the rest on the mechanical 2TB, which is why I went for the WD. Is there a better option for 2 TB worth of storage?

I agree that a quality PSU is needed. I had an antec earthwatts in my last system that i'm selling and it has been fabulous. I will find myself a "real" PSU from corsair, or antec, etc.

Finally, is it worth it dropping 100 bucks on a "nicer" case? My old case is an antec 900, which was 100 when I got it.
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Thu Jun 23, 2011 4:35 pm

Sputnik7 wrote:Thank you all for your input, it has raised some very good questions.

On the storage front, I have looked at Z86 chipset as well, and my question is this: Am I better off doing an SSD for my OS (so it boots quickly) and a couple of often played games? Or should I use the SSD as a cache for the mechanical hard-drive? Anyone have an idea which way is faster for load times on the boot and games? Maybe someone should PM me a quick explanation on intel's smart response technology. While I'm on speed, I went with the WD black and the crucial SSD because they are SATA 6 gb/s capable. Is 6 gb/s SATA for hard drives worth getting?

Furthermore, I do have a lot of stuff I to store media-wise. My original plan was the small SSD for OS and a game or two, and then the rest on the mechanical 2TB, which is why I went for the WD. Is there a better option for 2 TB worth of storage?


I would get a 80GB-120GB SSD for your OS,most used apps, and a few games. That should be plenty of room. I'd then grab a large mechanical drive for your storage. The 2TB drive I suggested above is a great choice. It's not really worth it to get 6GB/s on a HDD, but it's not like it's going to hurt. Having your OS, apps, and games on the SSD will ensure quick boot and load times.
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Thu Jun 23, 2011 4:39 pm

DancinJack wrote:
Sputnik7 wrote:Thank you all for your input, it has raised some very good questions.

On the storage front, I have looked at Z86 chipset as well, and my question is this: Am I better off doing an SSD for my OS (so it boots quickly) and a couple of often played games? Or should I use the SSD as a cache for the mechanical hard-drive? Anyone have an idea which way is faster for load times on the boot and games? Maybe someone should PM me a quick explanation on intel's smart response technology. While I'm on speed, I went with the WD black and the crucial SSD because they are SATA 6 gb/s capable. Is 6 gb/s SATA for hard drives worth getting?

Furthermore, I do have a lot of stuff I to store media-wise. My original plan was the small SSD for OS and a game or two, and then the rest on the mechanical 2TB, which is why I went for the WD. Is there a better option for 2 TB worth of storage?


I would get a 80GB-120GB SSD for your OS,most used apps, and a few games. That should be plenty of room. I'd then grab a large mechanical drive for your storage. The 2TB drive I suggested above is a great choice. It's not really worth it to get 6GB/s on a HDD, but it's not like it's going to hurt. Having your OS, apps, and games on the SSD will ensure quick boot and load times.



What about Z68 vs P67? And I will be putting games on the mechanical hard drive, my steam folder is like 200 gigabytes :oops:
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Thu Jun 23, 2011 5:07 pm

To my knowledge, Steam installs can't be spread across multiple drives. So in that case, you're either going to put the whole thing on the mechanical drive or only install what you want to play at a time.

And for that reason, Z68 looks like a clear winner. The games you're playing right now will get cached, and the games you want to play later will initially come from the mechanical drive to be cached as they're used.
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Thu Jun 23, 2011 5:35 pm

Sounds like Z68 might work better for you.

I actually have all my stuff split up over 3 drives. An SSD for OS/apps + 640 WD Black for Steam + 1TB for media. I think it works really well. I may have done it differently, but I had the 640 first, then the SSD, and then purchased the 1TB so it all got changed around.
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Thu Jun 23, 2011 5:42 pm

derFunkenstein wrote:For aftermarket coolers, it's hard to beat a Xigmatek HDT-1283. People around here like Coolermaster's Hyper 212+, which is really honkin' expensive by comparison. I can buy the same cooler for $32 locally, not sure what Newegg is smoking.
It's still just $29 at Directron.

DancinJack wrote: 2TB HD - If you're not putting games on this drive, there isn't really a need to splurge for a WD Black.
Use code "EMCKDHJ22" to save another $10 on the 2 TB Samsung HD204UI, bringing it down to just $70, delivered. 8)

If using three drives doesn't make you crazy, a 0.080 to 0.160 TB SSD for your OS and most-used programs, a 1 TB Samsung HD103SJ for your Steam directory, other programs and your user directory and the 2 TB Samsung HD204UI for your photos, video, recorded television, etc. covers everything.
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Thu Jun 23, 2011 6:22 pm

derFunkenstein wrote:To my knowledge, Steam installs can't be spread across multiple drives. So in that case, you're either going to put the whole thing on the mechanical drive or only install what you want to play at a time.

And for that reason, Z68 looks like a clear winner. The games you're playing right now will get cached, and the games you want to play later will initially come from the mechanical drive to be cached as they're used.


You cannot install Steam games across multiple drives, but NTFS supports 'folder junctions,' which are a form of file system level shortcuts. Works great; once I have all of my Steam (or EA Download Manager/Origin) games installed, I can use a folder junction to move the games that need a speed up or are most used over to the SSD.

Also, the clear winner for speed (as reviewed by Anandtech) is booting off of an SSD with a mechanical drive as backup. Having a smaller cached drive has it's benefits, but it's not faster for anything that would otherwise be installed directly to an SSD. Further, if Sputnik7 has no need for the extra functionality that Z68 provides, then the money spent there is best spent on a larger SSD.
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Thu Jun 23, 2011 6:45 pm

Airmantharp wrote:
derFunkenstein wrote:To my knowledge, Steam installs can't be spread across multiple drives. So in that case, you're either going to put the whole thing on the mechanical drive or only install what you want to play at a time.

And for that reason, Z68 looks like a clear winner. The games you're playing right now will get cached, and the games you want to play later will initially come from the mechanical drive to be cached as they're used.


You cannot install Steam games across multiple drives, but NTFS supports 'folder junctions,' which are a form of file system level shortcuts. Works great; once I have all of my Steam (or EA Download Manager/Origin) games installed, I can use a folder junction to move the games that need a speed up or are most used over to the SSD.

Also, the clear winner for speed (as reviewed by Anandtech) is booting off of an SSD with a mechanical drive as backup. Having a smaller cached drive has it's benefits, but it's not faster for anything that would otherwise be installed directly to an SSD. Further, if Sputnik7 has no need for the extra functionality that Z68 provides, then the money spent there is best spent on a larger SSD.


So this "folder junctions" idea looks very interesting. Let me get this straight. If I made a folder junction to steam on my D drive (mechanical 2TB) on my SSD (120GB C drive), any game i decide to run from steam runs on the SSD?

But all of the steam data is physically on the 2TB drive right?

If this is true, then it might make sense for me to just stick with P67 and make a folder junction with the command line MKLINK for my steam stuff on the SSD?
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Thu Jun 23, 2011 7:41 pm

Not trying to spam, but I think this would help me IMMENSELY

http://www.traynier.com/software/steammover

This means that whatever steam game i move over to the SSD will run off the SSD if I open it in steam? and then when i'm done i can delete the junction and free up the space, all without having to modify my original steam files on the mechanical


By the way, anyone have a good case recommendation? The corsair case on techreport is too pricey for me, I'd prefer something closer to 100. But I understand that an expensive case can last through multiple builds
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Thu Jun 23, 2011 7:52 pm

Yes, do please explain a little more about these folder junctions and how they work as well as how they are created. Sorry to threadjack, but the OP appears interested as well..

Speaking of the OP, looks like a solid build. I would echo the recommendations the others have made with regards to quality case and PSU being worth a little extra scratch as you will most likely (at least I tend to) keep them for multiple builds. I believe my P180 has held no less than 5 different systems over the years, all of which have been sold off to family/friends and built into mostly antec sonatas or other similar cases.

As far as the P67 vs. Z68 smallish SSD vs Largish SSD dilemma - I think you'll ultimately be more satisfied with a larger SSD for a couple of reasons. First and foremost, it's going to be faster than its smaller counterpart because of the higher number of chips and channels used. I also think you'll be able to use it longer. The first computer I built for myself included the orginal 36gb raptor. It was the fastest drive available at the time, but now its only use is as a boot drive on a backup server that gets used maybe once a month. Besides being horribly clicky and loud, you can't really do a lot with 36gb. All that to say taht I think you'll be able to continue using a 128gb drive for things longer than a 64gb. For example, I plan on moving my 128gb C300 into a laptop once it is supplanted by the new hotness someday in my primary desktop. While I think the caching scheme in the Z68 sounds really interesting, I think I would either go for the 20GB drive designed for that (311?) or if you don't need the display outputs stick with the P67 and get a larger SSD. Or, if you can swing it, get the Z68 AND the larger SSD and don't have to regret either decision ;)

Good luck and have fun - sounds like you'll get a great system in the end.
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Thu Jun 23, 2011 8:07 pm

Sputnik7 wrote:Not trying to spam, but I think this would help me IMMENSELY

http://www.traynier.com/software/steammover

This means that whatever steam game i move over to the SSD will run off the SSD if I open it in steam? and then when i'm done i can delete the junction and free up the space, all without having to modify my original steam files on the mechanical


By the way, anyone have a good case recommendation? The corsair case on techreport is too pricey for me, I'd prefer something closer to 100. But I understand that an expensive case can last through multiple builds


That looks interesting, and may be a little easier than what I was doing. I used Symlinker. Just set it to create folder junctions after I've manually copied and deleted the game folder in question; I use it largely for Bad Company 2 for multiplayer, and for Dragon Age II and soon Left 4 Dead 2 on my laptop, as my Steam games are loaded on the drive I swapped out of it and put into a USB3 enclosure.
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Airmantharp
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Thu Jun 23, 2011 8:54 pm

Ok here is an updated build. Changes are:

-Went back to P67, gonna do the whole SSD + Mechanical and junction my steam stuff to run off SSD as needed
- Sticking with 2GB VRAM 6950. With discount and MIR, same price as 1GB VRAM version
- Added PSU

Mobo: ASRock P67 PRO3 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
PSU: OCZ Fatal1ty 550W Modular Gaming Power Supply compatible with Intel Sandybridge Core i3 i5 i7 and AMD Phenom
Vid: HIS H695FN2G2M Radeon HD 6950 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor
SSD: Crucial RealSSD C300 CTFDDAC128MAG-1G1 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model
HDD: SAMSUNG EcoGreen F4 HD204UI 2TB SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Sound Card: ASUS XONAR_DG 5.1 Channels PCI Interface Xonar DG Sound Card
Optical: Already have
OS: Win7 64-bit OEM

newegg has me at 1300 shipped

and the big question. Case: ???
Image

Nvidia GTX 660Ti 2GB @ 1920x1200 on Dell 2408WFP
Sputnik7
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Thu Jun 23, 2011 9:16 pm

For the PSU, the Anandtech reviewer wasn't terribly impressed. Try this 600w Silverstone Strider instead.

Your original case pick was fine, as is; refer to my suggestion about adding a fan above, but that's about it.
Canon 6D||[24-105/4L IS USM|100/2.8L Macro IS USM|70-300/4-5.6 IS USM|40/2.8 STM|50/1.4 USM|85/1.8 USM|Samyang/Bower 14/2.8 Full-Manual Rectilinear Wide-angle|
Canon EOS-M|11-22/4-5.6 IS STM|22/2 STM|EF-M 18-55/3.5-5.6 IS STM|
For sale!|24/2.8 IS USM
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Airmantharp
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Thu Jun 23, 2011 10:52 pm

$65 -15 code "EMCKDHJ39" Antec Earthwatts EA-500D
$60 -15MIR Antec Three Hundred
i7-4770K, H70, Gryphon Z87, 16 GiB, R9-290, SSD, 2 HD, Blu-ray, SB ZX, TJ08-E, SS-660XP², 3007WFP+2001FP, RK-9000BR, MX518
JustAnEngineer
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Thu Jun 23, 2011 11:15 pm

if you are getting an asrock P67 board, go right up to the extreme4, since it comes with a front panel USB3 caddy. trust me, it is VERY nice, especially since the board have the actual headers on the motherboard.
moriz
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Fri Jun 24, 2011 7:17 am

moriz wrote:if you are getting an asrock P67 board, go right up to the extreme4, since it comes with a front panel USB3 caddy. trust me, it is VERY nice, especially since the board have the actual headers on the motherboard.


Not to thread hijack but can someone explain to me what kind of street cred/market perception ASRock has? I saw that recent comic strip that was posted on TR that showed Gigabyte as some sort of disco freak, Intel as suicidal because of the perceived hassels associated with them and ASRock is apparently some geek in an ALF t-shirt? It seems to me that their boards are fairly high quality and hassel free.
Lenovo Y560 laptop, Intel i7 Q720 1.6 Ghz
ATi 5730 1 GB, 8 GB RAM DDR3, 500 GB 7200 RPM
WalkCMD
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Fri Jun 24, 2011 8:16 am

One thing I might add to this thread is that BF2 / BF3 is very multi-threaded. You are likely to benefit from a lower clock + more threads than you would from a higher clock + fewer threads.

The Intel i5 has 4 cores / 4 threads, whereas the i7 has 4 cores / 8 threads.
JdL
286DX > Pentium Pro 200 > Athlon 1000 @ 1.4 GHz > Athlon 64 2.2 GHz > Athlon XP 3200+ > Core 2 Duo 3300 @ 4.0 GHz > Core 2 Quad 6600 G0 @ 3.2 > Core i7 3770 @ stock
JdL
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Fri Jun 24, 2011 9:30 am

WalkCMD wrote:
moriz wrote:if you are getting an asrock P67 board, go right up to the extreme4, since it comes with a front panel USB3 caddy. trust me, it is VERY nice, especially since the board have the actual headers on the motherboard.


Not to thread hijack but can someone explain to me what kind of street cred/market perception ASRock has? I saw that recent comic strip that was posted on TR that showed Gigabyte as some sort of disco freak, Intel as suicidal because of the perceived hassels associated with them and ASRock is apparently some geek in an ALF t-shirt? It seems to me that their boards are fairly high quality and hassel free.


My perception of ASRock before I purchased the P67 Extreme4 (and then traded in for the Z68 Extreme4) was simply 'cheap ASUS'. Now it's 'ASUS with a slightly different flavor,' and that's not a bad thing.

As I've said above, their P67 Extreme4 is the highest rated P67 board on Newegg. It's rock solid, full featured, and comes with a 3.5" USB3 bay that hooks into the board- which is worth it's weight if you try and find an equivalent. I've found their Z68 Extreme4 to be the exact same thing except for the USB ports it loses on the back in order to provide a spot for the graphics ports.
Canon 6D||[24-105/4L IS USM|100/2.8L Macro IS USM|70-300/4-5.6 IS USM|40/2.8 STM|50/1.4 USM|85/1.8 USM|Samyang/Bower 14/2.8 Full-Manual Rectilinear Wide-angle|
Canon EOS-M|11-22/4-5.6 IS STM|22/2 STM|EF-M 18-55/3.5-5.6 IS STM|
For sale!|24/2.8 IS USM
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Airmantharp
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Fri Jun 24, 2011 9:38 am

If this is truly a "Battlefield 3 build", you need to consider the fact that Nvidia cards pretty much wipe the floor with ATI cards in Bad Company 2. All you have to do is dig up a few reviews of the 570 and 580 that used BC2 and 6950 and 6970 numbers to see that the current Frostbite engine is very Nvidia friendly. That doesn't mean that Frostbite 2 will also be Nvidia friendly, but it would be a mistake to build a rig for Battlefield 3 that doesn't at least give some consideration to that fact.
cjcerny
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Re: sandy bridge/battlefield 3 build

Postposted on Fri Jun 24, 2011 9:46 am

@ Airmantharp
Thanks. I had suspected that they were quality components but am still confused as to why ASRock was related to a geek in an ALF t-shirt in that comic strip. Ok, resume build talk. I'll shut up now.
Lenovo Y560 laptop, Intel i7 Q720 1.6 Ghz
ATi 5730 1 GB, 8 GB RAM DDR3, 500 GB 7200 RPM
WalkCMD
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