I don't know what you're trying to accomplish with your overclock, but I personally always shoot for a "daily driver" overclock, meaning max frequency at stock CPU voltage. That ensures temps stay low and CPU life-expectancy is not diminished. It also largely avoids all the "advanced" overclocking tweaks that are necessitated by max OC's (ie crank out every last MHz). Some would say that it's okay to increase voltage a small amount (and I agree), but then you're in the grey area of "how much is a little?"
Also, I always leave HT, Turbo Boost, and Speed Step on. Turbo Boost and Speed Step are designed to toggle VERY quickly. For lightly threaded workloads (1-2 cores for example) Turbo Boost is designed to increase the frequency of a couple cores beyond stock while the remaining cores are parked/idle. It's a method of extracting max performance within a given thermal design power (TDP). Some mobos have the ability to apply this frequency boost to all cores when they're pegged, this feature is called "Multi-Core Enhancement" (not sure if MCE was maybe introduced with Sandy Bridge). Speed Step reduces the CPU frequency below the base frequency to save power/heat when idle.Here's a stock voltage overclock for a 980X.
Your results may vary depending on if your CPU is a good overclocker or not. Googling "(processor name
) stock voltage overclock" can pretty much give you a recipe for overclocking any CPU.
Similarly, I leave RAM at it's fastest stock XMP profile. Ram overclocking just isn't worth the hassle of ~2-3% performance improvement.
Main: i5-3570K, ASRock Z77 Pro4-M, Asus GTX660 TOP, 120 GB Vertex 3 Max IOPS, 2 TB Samsung EcoGreen F4, 8GB 1600MHz G.Skill @1.25V, Silverstone PS07B
HTPC: A8-5600K, MSI FM2-A75IA-E53, 4TB Samsung SSHD, 8GB 1866MHz G.Skill, Hand-Built Wood Case