Personal computing discussed
Moderators: renee, Dposcorp, SpotTheCat
matdem1 wrote:Over HDMI it runs at 120hz but when using the pc connection (DSUB) it drops the refresh rate down to 60hz.
dpmeersman wrote:30FPS or 60FPS which can be up-converted to 120Hz
dpmeersman wrote:On my Samsung 46" LCD I have to shut the 120Hz off when playing Blu Rays on my PS3. The 120Hz introduces artifacts as the PS3 plays the movies @ 24FPS. I first noticed this while watching The Dark Knight. In one of the opening scenes they zoom into an office building. The windows of this building provide a checkerboard pattern which gets distorted, shut of the 120Hz and it looks fine. Not an issue watching the same movie thru the cable box as I believe that uses 30FPS or 60FPS which can be up-converted to 120Hz.
dpmeersman wrote:No it's not broken. PS3 Blu Ray playback on my Samsung 46" look drop dead gorgeous without the 120Hz. Using the 120Hz on some scenes does introduce artifacting. The are times that I forget I have it enabled and watch whole Blu Rays and have no issues. Any time I'm watching something that appears a little funky I just pause it, shut of the 120Hz go back and it looks fantastic. It is a minor problem totally repeatable when I want to show someone what the issue appears like and they always agree, it looks fanfreakingtastic without it. So I normally don't run the 120Hz unless I'm watching a sporting event over cable.
Airmantharp wrote:The first LED back-lit TVs on the market were high end models with local dimming. The current cheap ones that have big "LED TV it is so different from LCD go buy!" signs are mostly edge-lit, which can be uneven just like their CCFL counterpart. LED with local dimming models are still priced through the roof unfortunately.Also, I'm sure you're aware that LED's in LCD displays are just a replacement for the fluorescent tubes. Whether they are better or worse, or noticeably so, is a matter of quality between the two sets in question. When LED back-lit sets hit the market, they had better colors and contrast, but were inferior in the viewing angle department, though this has probably changed.
Flying Fox wrote:Airmantharp wrote:The first LED back-lit TVs on the market were high end models with local dimming. The current cheap ones that have big "LED TV it is so different from LCD go buy!" signs are mostly edge-lit, which can be uneven just like their CCFL counterpart. LED with local dimming models are still priced through the roof unfortunately.Also, I'm sure you're aware that LED's in LCD displays are just a replacement for the fluorescent tubes. Whether they are better or worse, or noticeably so, is a matter of quality between the two sets in question. When LED back-lit sets hit the market, they had better colors and contrast, but were inferior in the viewing angle department, though this has probably changed.
Airmantharp wrote:dpmeersman wrote:No it's not broken. PS3 Blu Ray playback on my Samsung 46" look drop dead gorgeous without the 120Hz. Using the 120Hz on some scenes does introduce artifacting. The are times that I forget I have it enabled and watch whole Blu Rays and have no issues. Any time I'm watching something that appears a little funky I just pause it, shut of the 120Hz go back and it looks fantastic. It is a minor problem totally repeatable when I want to show someone what the issue appears like and they always agree, it looks fanfreakingtastic without it. So I normally don't run the 120Hz unless I'm watching a sporting event over cable.
I was being a little dramatic above, but in any case, it shouldn't be doing that. My buddy leaves the 120Hz option on under its lowest setting for everything (no twitch gaming), and none of us have seen what you're talking about. His TV is also the first one to come out with the 120Hz option, though, and maybe Samsung lowered the quality of the processor to cut costs for your set.
Scrotos wrote:That's the thing, at that range you are probably better off getting a G25 Panasonic plasma, assuming your environment can be dark enough to use a plasma.Flying Fox wrote:Airmantharp wrote:The first LED back-lit TVs on the market were high end models with local dimming. The current cheap ones that have big "LED TV it is so different from LCD go buy!" signs are mostly edge-lit, which can be uneven just like their CCFL counterpart. LED with local dimming models are still priced through the roof unfortunately.Also, I'm sure you're aware that LED's in LCD displays are just a replacement for the fluorescent tubes. Whether they are better or worse, or noticeably so, is a matter of quality between the two sets in question. When LED back-lit sets hit the market, they had better colors and contrast, but were inferior in the viewing angle department, though this has probably changed.
Above like $1500 the LEDs all seem to be local dimming. 55" LG from Best Buy is like $1700 and really neat! Dunno about the cheaper stuff but I think that's a decent price for that size screen.
Flying Fox wrote:Scrotos wrote:That's the thing, at that range you are probably better off getting a G25 Panasonic plasma, assuming your environment can be dark enough to use a plasma.Flying Fox wrote:The first LED back-lit TVs on the market were high end models with local dimming. The current cheap ones that have big "LED TV it is so different from LCD go buy!" signs are mostly edge-lit, which can be uneven just like their CCFL counterpart. LED with local dimming models are still priced through the roof unfortunately.
Above like $1500 the LEDs all seem to be local dimming. 55" LG from Best Buy is like $1700 and really neat! Dunno about the cheaper stuff but I think that's a decent price for that size screen.
cjcerny wrote:There's some confusion here. I doubt that your TV, or any TV for that matter, will actually accept a 120hz input nowdays. The 120hz or 240hz figures that you see on upper end LCD/LED TV's nowadays are what they can potentially upsample their inputs to, not what they can actually accept. I doubt that you will be able to send your TV anything higher than 1080p, no matter what you do, and 1080p is 1920x1080x60. So, your question about needing a video card that can do 120 frames a second is completely moot. You're still limited to 60hz as an input regardless of what your TV can upsample to.
CityEater wrote:you spent good money on your television with the expectation that films and TV would accurately reflect the vision of its producers.
Successful: Vizio e3d420vx
Resolution: 1920×1080 at 120 Hz
Source: http://120hz.net/showthread.php?852-Managed-to-force-120Hz-on-a-Vizio-e3d420vx
Success: Panasonic VT50 plasma
Resolution: 1920×1080 at 120 Hz
Caveat: More heat output
Source: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1438092/list-of-hdtvs-with-120hz-native-refresh-ability-forcing-1080p-120hz-via-dvi-or-hdmi-from-computer#post_22576928
Confirmed: Seiki 4K HDTV
Resolution: 1920×1080 at 120 Hz
The brand new SEIKI 50″ HDTV with 4K resolution supports 1080p @ 120Hz natively (Multitool confirmed).
deadman5k wrote:Successful: Vizio M420SL not a 3d TV
Resolution: 1920×1080 at 120 Hz
Using a Asus 3D tv driver I was able to force a 120hz output with windows 7 and my Vizio M420SL system info screen displays 120hz vertical frequency as well as my Catalyst control center. This TV is not a 3D but does have a native LCD refresh rate of 120hz.
Thank you blurbusters for your very helpful information. It took all day to find the right question to ask the great google search engine but when I finally asked “force 120hz pc” I found this page and now I am in 120hz, 42 inch, goodness. Next trick is getting passive 3d working. Thanks again.
sadbuttrue wrote:Successful: Panasonic 50ST30 plasma
Resolution: 1280×720 @ 120hz.
Source: HardForum post (by sadbuttrue)
The OSD reports 60hz and 3D mode detected. Colours are slightly different but there is no 3D being applied. I have verified that it does show 120 unique frames. So, when you try outputting 120hz to your TV don’t assume the OSD is giving an accurate report. It may say 60hz yet actually be showing 120hz.
maarten12100 wrote:Successful: Skyworth 39E780U UHD tv (china market model)
Resolution: 1080p @ 140Hz without frame skipping
Source: Overclock.net review by maarten12100
The overclock results:
UHD 3840×2160 was 30Hz max now 38Hz (up to 40Hz by reducing the extra pixels/blanking in the stream but with minor artifacting)
QFHD 2560×1440 was not there now 82Hz
HD 1920×1080 was 60Hz max now 140Hz (I checked with RRMT Refresh Rate Multi Tool and it actually did it without dropping)
QHD 1280×720 was 60Hz max now 254Hz (checked again with RRMT but it was too fast for my eyes then I took pictures and video)
(NOTE: Cost only $600 in China! Not available outside of China yet at this time.)
bobbitybob wrote:Successful:
- Sony KDL-50R550A 50″
- Sony KDL-60R550A 60″
- Sony KDL-70R550A 70″
Resolution: 1080p @ 120Hz
Source: AVSFORUM post by bobbitybob
“720p@120hz confirmed working. Kinda funny, before on 1080 I didn't notice a difference figuring I'm just getting too old for this stuff, having never used a 120hz monitor before, but I knew instantly with the real 120hz that it's working. What a huge difference in smoothness and reduction in blur. Just nuts. Tested with RRM (Refresh Rate Multitool) as well to verify.”
(NOTE: 720p was good; 1080p was frameskipping, but may be DVI adaptor (limitation). Best to test using direct HDMI-to-HDMI connection from PC-to-TV.)