Personal computing discussed
Moderators: renee, SpotTheCat, Nemesis
TwistedKestrel wrote:Incidentally, cutting the ground off a surge protector renders it 100% completely useless. Power surges get shunted to ground; a lot of surge protectors have a warning light if they don't detect a ground connection.
Captain Ned wrote:TwistedKestrel wrote:Incidentally, cutting the ground off a surge protector renders it 100% completely useless. Power surges get shunted to ground; a lot of surge protectors have a warning light if they don't detect a ground connection.
Dig deep into any current US-standard breaker panel and you'll find a bus bar that ties the ground terminal block to the neutral terminal block.
Captain Ned wrote:Dig deep into any current US-standard breaker panel and you'll find a bus bar that ties the ground terminal block to the neutral terminal block.
DLHM wrote:... tying the green/copper wire to the neutral would remove the floating ground from the situation, but I would bet that the computer would still lock up from other reasons. The best way to ground that outlet it to run a singal conductor to a grounding rod under/outside the house(if possible) or running it to the neutral bar in the panel.
westom wrote:A neutral and safety ground wire are electrically different at the receptacle end.
westom wrote:Because code says safety ground and neutral must not be connected together at the receptacle.
westom wrote:Safety ground prong in a wall receptacle must not be connected to an earth ground rod.
Safety ground prong in a wall receptacle must not be connected to an earth ground rod.
Neutral and safety ground wires must always remain separate except where they meet inside the breaker box.
Maybe so, but the instant that plug goes into a wall receptacle, ground and neutral are the same thing.
Trellot wrote:One weird thing the HP computer does when I turn on the power is that the power supply resets 3 or 4 times turning off and on before finally booting up; almost like I've pulled CMOS or something and it's doing a couple resets.
ludi wrote:Trellot wrote:One weird thing the HP computer does when I turn on the power is that the power supply resets 3 or 4 times turning off and on before finally booting up; almost like I've pulled CMOS or something and it's doing a couple resets.
That sounds like a power supply problem, a motherboard problem, or an intermittent short somewhere in the system. One thing to check for would be broken or damaged pins inside a USB connector. The USB controller is supposed to self-protect in that situation, but they don't always handle it gracefully.
Trellot wrote:That was my thought, but I tried a good PSU I have and I was getting the same 3 to 4 resets and then, of course, the impending freeze up.
westom wrote:While I respect your opinion and thank you for the time you spent commenting on this thread, I do not appreciate your criticism here at the end of your post. First, I don't own a multi-meter because I can't afford one (expensive brand or cheap) so I am getting by with the troubleshooting techniques that I have learned, that I have known, and that I have used for years to my success. Perhaps this is the one case I've run into thus far where ONLY a multi-meter can tell me what is going on...if that is the case, so be it. But, on the whole, I've not had many issues determining the right faulty part. Again, thank you for your comments but a smidgeon of humility might serve you better.Trellot wrote:Many suggestions so that the better informed need not stay silent. Your actions at home mean those with better knowledge can provide no useful suggestions or define the actual failure.
P5-133XL wrote:If your computer locks up during POST you have hardware issues that prevent bootup.
Trellot wrote:Humility is accused when one fears a 100% technical post. One full minute of labor with a meter means a next post says what is and is not. Without speculation or so much emotion. Unfortunately even jobs are lost when so many fear to learn a concept widely taught in Japan. Work smarter; not harder.Perhaps this is the one case I've run into thus far where ONLY a multi-meter can tell me what is going on...if that is the case, so be it. But, on the whole, I've not had many issues determining the right faulty part. Again, thank you for your comments but a smidgeon of humility might serve you better.
That suspect sometimes does not even let POST execute. Causes other failures that act like a boot sector virus. And creates those other symptoms. POST and other booting problems are routine when one of many power system components is completely defective. Therefore act intermittent. A tool that can ‘see’ that defect is a multimeter. Even good PSU can be intermittent in an otherwise good computer – another reason why shotgunning so often causes confusion.The problem is NOT anything involved in Windows or malware. Windows does not get involved in the booting process till after the POST. POST is an internal testing process of the hardware to see if there is a hardware problem. If your computer locks up during POST you have hardware issues that prevent bootup.
Trellot wrote:P5-133XL wrote:If your computer locks up during POST you have hardware issues that prevent bootup.
This isn't always the case though is it? What about a boot sector virus or some such anomoly? Or, for me, I've experienced lockups because the drive requires IDE mode and is set to AHCI in BIOS...stuff like that. Some strange BIOS setting can cause weird results.
~ Trellot
westom wrote:One full minute of labor with a meter
PrecambrianRabbit wrote:westom wrote:One full minute of labor with a meter
You'd be more helpful if you suggested what should be done with said multimeter to diagnose this problem.
Trellot wrote:While I respect your opinion and thank you for the time you spent commenting on this thread, I do not appreciate your criticism here at the end of your post. First, I don't own a multi-meter because I can't afford one (expensive brand or cheap) so I am getting by with the troubleshooting techniques that I have learned, that I have known, and that I have used for years to my success. Perhaps this is the one case I've run into thus far where ONLY a multi-meter can tell me what is going on...if that is the case, so be it. But, on the whole, I've not had many issues determining the right faulty part. Again, thank you for your comments but a smidgeon of humility might serve you better.
PrecambrianRabbit wrote:You'd be more helpful if you suggested what should be done with said multimeter to diagnose this problem.