UPS Suggestions

[emorgoch]

Hey guys,

So my current UPS ([lurl=http://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=SUA1500]APC Smart-UPS 1500VA - SUA1500[/url]) is finally biting the dust after using it for some 7 years. I got it used off Ebay for $300, so I really can't complain. I was thinking that I could just replace the battery, but it's been making some noise lately, and after my latest move, the wiring fault LED is turning on.

So with that, looking for something new to replace it. First instinct is to go with APC's latest version (SMT1500), but the price is fairly up there ($500). So I figured I'd ask what others are using and their experiences with them. Looking for the same VA/W class. It's overkill for my system, but I'm frequently plugging in secondary systems for maintenance, etc, so I'd rather go to big then little.

Thanks.

[just brew it!]

What kind of noise is it making? Does it have an internal cooling fan?

Have you ruled out the possibility that the wiring fault indication isn't due to an *actual* wiring fault? You may be running with a bad (or floating) earth ground...

[ronch]

I don't blame you for hesitating to pay $500. It's really pretty steep. How about having your old one checked first? Maybe it's just a minor problem. And if the battery seems tired already you might as well have it replaced as well.

[JohnC]

I dunno if you already bought it or still thinking about it, but Smart-UPS really looks like an "overkill". Personally I've been always using Back-UPS series (most basic one), latest being a BE750G model which does its job perfectly for my current PC (provides enough time for graceful shut down in case of prolonged (more than 1 minute usually means the power will be out for several hours here) outage). It doesn't have fancy displays (on UPS itself and in the software that controls it), but I never found them useful. If you need to plug in a "secondary system for maintenance" - use the outlets that are not powered by battery, or use a simple surge protector for that, it is highly unlikely that you'll ever be affected by power loss (I never was) when spending a couple of hours installing/uninstalling/scanning stuff on secondary system. If you NEED more than 450W from your UPS (because you have some kind of crazy triple-SLI system with some "extreme edition" CPU or something) - I suggest trying one of the CyberPower models, their latest models have "pure sine wave" output (some people believe that it does some kind of "miracles" - I don't; I believe in buying a properly-designed PSU instead), displays with fancy graphics and so on, and they are significantly cheaper than APC's models. Something like this should be "equal" to your previous APC unit:
http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500 ... 06&sr=8-10
I have used the cheaper model (less power output) myself for a different system, it worked well, didn't really notice any drawbacks except a slightly inconvenient way of removing battery (you need to turn the UPS off then unscrew the screw holding the battery door with screwdriver), but you shouldn't be removing teh battery for at least a couple of years.

[emorgoch]

Ended up going with the APC Back-UPS Pro 1500VA (BG1500R). $220, so right in my price range.

The noise is was making is more of an electrical buzz. Gotten progressively worse over the last couple of years. As for the wiring fault LED, the new UPS is showing it too, so the wiring in the new apartment is probably faulty.

Going to give the old UPS to my dad. Let him get a new battery for it if he wants. Thanks guys.

[just brew it!]

As for the wiring fault LED, the new UPS is showing it too, so the wiring in the new apartment is probably faulty.

Note that this may mean that any surge suppression capabilities of the UPS are being rendered ineffective...

[emorgoch]

Understood. Going to go through and test the wiring to see what's up with it.

[just brew it!]

Probably a bad ground. IIRC that's what the "wiring fault" indicator is for.

[emorgoch]

According to their FAQ, either a lack of ground, or reversed Hot-neutral leads. I'm guessing the former as well, but I'll need to get the volt-meter out to verify.