Rosewill RK-9000 caveat

[Airmantharp]

After TR posted the Rosewill keyboard sale in the Weekend Deals, I ended up with the RK-9000BR (Cherry MX browns). Decision was mainly informed by the need to avoid excess noise. I had an actual buckling-spring keyboard for a while in the late '90s and can't deal with that kind of clatter anymore.

I had forgotten how nice it is to have a keyboard that doesn't feel like a tray of Jell-O. The position of the USB connector is (still) every bit as bad as indicated by JBI, but on my desk that shouldn't be much of an issue since the keyboard doesn't get moved around much. The only other annoyances are the blue LEDs for the (n)-LOCK indicators. At some point after the warranty expires, I might change those to a dim green or yellow.

I'm loving mine. Wish I could afford to buy ten and put them everywhere I need a keyboard.

Though some good white backlighting might be nice for some applications; I keep my gaming setup a little off-kilter, and finding the home row isn't always reflex, let alone finding specific keys.

[ludi]

Disappointingly, the first thing to fail was the backspace key. In the course of one evening it began lagging, first a little bit and then a lot, and finally quit responding. Thereafter it would occasionally respond when struck from an extreme edge, but not reliably, and not always with predictable results.

So far the RMA process is mostly painless -- apply at Rosewill.com, receive prepaid UPS shipping label and instructions from Newegg the next day. I say "mostly" painless because in the meantime, I'm back on a Logitech K120. Oy vey, it's like typing on a wet sponge

[UberGerbil]

Disappointingly, the first thing to fail was the backspace key.

Wow, that is disappointing. I wonder how widespread such early failures are?

[ludi]

Hopefully not too widespread, because I don't want to do this twice. Replacement is en route and supposed to be delivered tomorrow.

In the meantime, I noticed this keycap upgrade kit, which is kind of entertaining.

[ludi]

The replacement arrived yesterday, and my fingers are happy once again.

Start to finish was roughly one full week including shipping, which is reasonable.

[DancinJack]

That's a really decent time-frame. GJ on Newegg/Rosewill.

I already have a mechanical keyboard, but if I were purchasing one today I think it'd be a Leopold. I haven't heard many complaints about them. If someone would like to weigh in, feel free.

http://elitekeyboards.com/products.php?sub=leopold

[just brew it!]

Well now it looks like the '4' key on the numpad of my son's RK-9000BL has gone intermittent. No idea whether it's a random failure or if something (food/drink) got into it. Given that I already voided the warranty with the DIY USB connector repair (and it has been about a year since it was purchased so it would've probably been out of warranty anyhow), I guess I'm going to do a DIY switch replacement.

I figure I'll order a pile of spare Cherry MX switches (in both black and blue flavors) from Digi-Key; no point paying the shipping charges to buy a single 80 cent switch. I own two RK-9000s myself (which have both been trouble-free going on two years now), but I figure it's just a matter of time before I spill a soda or beer into one of them so having a few spare switches on hand would be a good idea!

[just brew it!]

Heh. Turns out the key switch itself was just fine. The issue was a cracked solder joint where the switch was soldered to the PCB:

Just re-soldered the switch and it works again. I re-soldered both pins; it looked like the other one (on the left) had the beginning of a fatigue crack as well.

I believe the underlying cause here was improper assembly -- it seemed like the switch was not mounted 100% flush to the PCB. This would've put extra stress on the solder joints every time the key was pressed, since the solder joints would take the entire impact. (With a properly mounted Cherry switch, all of the mechanical stress should be on the PCB and the metal face plate the switches are mounted through instead of on the solder joints.)

I made sure the switch was completely flush when I re-soldered it, and inspected the solder connections of all of the other switches for signs of damage.

I know a few other people have reported failure of individual keys on the RK-9000s. Perhaps these are also due to solder joint fatigue.

[MadManOriginal]

This makes me want to disassemble mine and just reflow all the solder joints. Fun!

[just brew it!]

FWIW I didn't just reflow the existing solder, I removed it and used fresh leaded solder. ROHS-compliant lead-free solder exacerbates solder joint fatigue issues, as it is more brittle than the traditional 60/40 tin/lead formulation.

Edit: If you do decide to reflow, I would press firmly on each key from the top (keyboard) side while reflowing its solder joints, to ensure that the switch is seated flush against the PCB. TBH I don't think there's much point opening it up just to reflow the connections unless you're already having problems.

[MadManOriginal]

Yeah...wasn't going to actually do it, but if there is a problem it's nice to know I can check that before doing a return.

I do know about ROHS solder and the issues around it. I have some ROHS solder and some regular tin/lead...I do tend to use the latter for repairs or lower-temperature uses and the former when I can get away with the higher temps.

[just brew it!]

Yeah...wasn't going to actually do it, but if there is a problem it's nice to know I can check that before doing a return.

Unfortunately, in order to check you'll need to break the "warranty void if removed" sticker over one of the screws. So you're basically committing to a DIY repair at that point.

[Philldoe]

Recently I bought a Razer Nostromo to play Mechwarrior Online, it's the first device I've ever had with mechanical switches.

Until I bought the Nostromo I never considered a mechanical keyboard. More and more I want to buy a new Keyboard but I'm afraid I may not like it after some time with it. MWO does not require a lot of quick key switching, it's more of a slow ballet when it comes to mech movement, so I have no idea how a mechanical KB will pan out when I'm playing more fast paced games like Space Marine and the like.

Currently I have a Logitech G510 and frankly I like it, it's a great KB, but if I did buy a new KB what would you guys point me to? I do need Macros, Media/volume buttons, and backlighting are a must. Noise is not an issue because my Corsaire 1500 Headset blocks out everything.

[ludi]

In retrospect, I'll bet the unit I RMA'd had the same problem. The switch never changed its "feel" and since it was the backspace key, operating it from an extreme side (i.e., torquing the switch ever so slightly) would sometimes trigger a response. That would be reasonably consistent with an intermittent solder joint.

[just brew it!]

In retrospect, I'll bet the unit I RMA'd had the same problem. The switch never changed its "feel" and since it was the backspace key, operating it from an extreme side (i.e., torquing the switch ever so slightly) would sometimes trigger a response. That would be reasonably consistent with an intermittent solder joint.

Yup, I'd bet money that it was the exact same issue.

[MarkG509]

Mission accomplished, with thanks to JBI!

I just finished doing exactly the same repair shown above, and have returned my all-time favorite keyboard to service.