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So I have been using my Dell Inspiron 530 since 2007 has 2 gigs of ram a 8800GT and a core 2 duo E8500 (that I upgraded from an older core 2 duo forgot the name) and 250gig HDD. Anyways my PC is OLD!

So it's finally time for an upgrade and i'm very excited since it will be my first PC build.

I already have all of my parts picked out and all I want is for just some opinions on my parts. Mainly if everything is compatible with each other and such.

Case - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6811139018

Mobo - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6813131980

CPU - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6819116901

HDD - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6822178381

RAM - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6820233586

GPU - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6814500301

Sound card - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6829102062

PSU - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6817139055

CPU Cooler - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6835103099

OS - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6832116986

Phew..those are all the parts going on the main box!

Basically I just want a lil overview to make sure everything is going to work and fit properly. All these pieces fit perfectly into my 1,500 budget. I will NOT go over this budget so please don't recomend more expensive parts.

I have also been watching youtube videos about my case and mobo and there's something that's kinda poking at me.

With my mobo I can only use 6 screws to bolt it down on the case since it doesn't have the 9 holes a full ATX board does. (eventhough it's an ATX mobo) That alone isn't a big issue, but from what I understand my case has a lil mobo stand to help me place the mobo in properly however that lil stand takes the place of one of the mobo stands leaving me with 5 screws to bolt in only.

This worries me because i'm going to use the aftermarket cpu cooler and it looks big and heavy...So my concern is that with all that weight from the CPU cooler and the GTX 770 will probably be too much just for 5 screws...

What do you guys think?

Lastly I went with a hybrid drive because I just can't afford a 1TB SSD (no way) nor even a 500GB one. So I feel that an hybrid is the way to go for me. Ive done my research of course and it seems perfect for me.

diasflacog wrote:

$1500 firm budget... ($1362 total for the items listed):
Case - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6811139018
$60 Corsair Carbide 200R

That is a fine ATX case. Do you need 6 or 7 expansion slots, or could you get by with 4 or 5 slots in Micro-ATX? Most ATX cases will accept micro-ATX motherboards without a problem.
$70 Fractal Design Arc Mini micro-ATX case

diasflacog wrote:

Mobo - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6813131980
$160 Asus Z87-Plus

What legacy hardware are you going to continue to use that requires those two obsolete PCI slots? If you don't have a need for the obsolete PCI slots, why not get a motherboard that has only PCIe slots?
$135 Asus Z87M-Plus micro-ATX
$167 Asus Gryphon Z87 micro-ATX
$195 -15MIR Asus Z87-Pro ATX

diasflacog wrote:

CPU - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6819116901
$340 Intel Core i7-4770K
CPU Cooler - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6835103099
$36 CoolerMaster Hyper 212 Evo

Those components will perform well.

diasflacog wrote:

RAM - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6820233586
$77 2x4 GiB PC3-12800 Corsair CMY8GX3M2A1600C9A (DDR3-1600, CAS 9, 1.5 V)

Do you like the tall decorative heatsinks on those DIMMs? They should perform satisfactorily, anyway.
$85 2x4 GiB PC3-14900 Corsair CML8GX3M2A1866C9B (DDR3-1866, CAS 9, 1.5 V)

diasflacog wrote:

GPU - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6814500301
$320 Zotac ZT-70301-10P GeForce GTX770 2GB

Graphics card pricing has been headed in the wrong direction for the past two months.

diasflacog wrote:

Sound card - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6829102062
$40 Creative Audigy Fx 70SB157000000

That wouldn't be much better than the integrated audio on the motherboard (which may be sufficient). Here's the latest-generation.
$60 Creative Sound Blaster Z 70SB150200000

diasflacog wrote:

Optical - None
SSD - None
HDD - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6822178381
$90 1.0 TB Seagate ST1000DX001

I'm not completely sold on the hybrid hard-drive. I'd suggest a ¼ TB SSD for your OS and most-used programs and a 2+ TB hard-drive for storage.
$146 or $140 0.25 TB Samsung 840 Evo MZ-7TE250BW
$105 3.0 TB Toshiba DT01ACA300

diasflacog wrote:

PSU - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6817139055
$130 Corsair RM750 (EPS, Gold, Modular, 62½A @ +12V)

That's an expensive power supply.
$104 SeaSonic SSR-650RM (ATX, Gold, Modular, 54A @ +12V)

diasflacog wrote:

OS - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6832116986
$102 Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit

This isn't 2009 any more.
$100 Windows 8.1 64-bit

Do you have mouse, keyboard, monitor, speakers, etc.?

diasflacog wrote:

Case - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6811139018

Mobo - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6813131980

With my mobo I can only use 6 screws to bolt it down on the case since it doesn't have the 9 holes a full ATX board does. (eventhough it's an ATX mobo) That alone isn't a big issue, but from what I understand my case has a lil mobo stand to help me place the mobo in properly however that lil stand takes the place of one of the mobo stands leaving me with 5 screws to bolt in only.

The manual of the 200R showed all 9 possible screw positions can take screws. Not sure what you are talking about, Anand's article said there is a centerpost for lining up, but the standoffs are still standoffs?

diasflacog wrote:

Lastly I went with a hybrid drive because I just can't afford a 1TB SSD (no way) nor even a 500GB one. So I feel that an hybrid is the way to go for me. Ive done my research of course and it seems perfect for me.

It depends on your storage needs. For people who have a huge media collection they would need those large mechanical 2TB+ drives plus an SSD. SSDs with capacities <=256GB seems to be having a lot of deals lately. Perhaps you can catch one and still have room for a larger mechanical drive. There are a few ways to trim that budget of yours based on JAE's suggestions (motherboard, PSU, sound). What monitor solution are you going for? Perhaps you can also get away with a 760? How crazy are you going to overclock? Haswell overclocking does not seem to be worth the ROI for the more expensive motherboard and cooling, without delidding.

Don't expect the Core i7 4770K to overclock too much and if hyperthreading is of no use to the programs or games you play you could save some money by buying a Core i5 4670K.

The case is nothing special, make sure it has enough CPU cooler clearance by comparing the height of the CPU cooler and the width of the case. Cases with a width of 210mm or higher should have no problems with 150mm heatsinks.

The mobo seems fine, just remember to not bend the pins.

CPU cooler is fine but the fan at max rpm can get noisey. Better buy a 120mm fan just in case you want a more silent gaming experience.

The video card is OK, but you should adjust budget to get a GTX 780 or R9 290 (by adjusting i don't mean increasing the budget, rather modifying the components so you can accomodate the better video card). Stock versions with a aftermarket cooler should be a lot quieter and cooler than custom designs. If you end up buying custom designs and later want to install an aftermarket cooler you will have more problems with compatibility, so usually it's best to buy the reference model.

PSU is nice but at that price a platinum rated one should be better. Also i have no idea how loud it is under load. From the look of it, it probably has a Corsair fan which are not known to be the queitest. For silent gaming i would actually like to propose buying a cheaper bronze rated one from Corsair, Seasonic or other good brands and replacing the fan with a silent one knowing and accepting the loss of warranty.

RAM heatsinks are tall and could interfere with the CPU cooler. Better check that out before buying.

Sound cards have been debunked and you should not waste your money there. Later down the road, if sound is important to you, buy a DAC and amplifier. I'm assuming you game and listen to music with headphones.

HDD, just buy a normal mechanical one, 7200 RPM, SATA III etc. and later buy an SSD.

diasflacog wrote:

Lastly I went with a hybrid drive because I just can't afford a 1TB SSD (no way) nor even a 500GB one. So I feel that an hybrid is the way to go for me. Ive done my research of course and it seems perfect for me.

You don't need to put everything on your SSD. Get one between 120GB and 256GB and install your OS on it. Put everything else on a 7200 RPM hard disk. Your budget ($1,500) is big enough that you shouldn't build without a SSD.

And what else are you using with this? JAE pointed out that you don't have an optical drive. Are you reusing one? Do you have a monitor?

Specifically, what are you using for audio (speakers/headphones)? A dedicated sound card can improve quality, but if you aren't using anything too fancy for your ears, that's an easy upgrade to make later, freeing up a little more cash for core components.

1) Like others have said, GET AN SSD!! Your system budget definitely allows for it. 240GB will give you enough space for your OS, Programs, and Games. Everything else (pictures/music/videos/documents/etc) goes on a mechanical hdd. You just change the targets on your "My Documents/Music/Videos" folder shortcuts and a stranger wouldn't even know the computer has 2 storage drives.
If you don't get an SSD, you're less likely to appreciate the "user experience" of your new rig. Computing has been hamstrung by storage IO for many many years. Even older PCs can benefit from SSDs. Don't believe me? Stick your new SSD in your existing Core2 system first. It will feel like an entirely different animal.
2) Consider a mATX mobo and case. Multi-GPU systems aren't the most preferable unless one GPU can't satisfy all your needs. mATX mobos will give you a dual-slot GPU, and up to 2 additional add-on cards in a smaller size. Heck, you could still go dual-GPU on a mATX mobo if you don't need any other add-on cards.
3) Ditch the sound card.
4) You can get 80-Plus Gold PSUs for around $100 or less. The Seasonic unit JAE listed is a good example.
5) Try to steer clear of RAM with uber tall heatsinks. They only cause problems, and their only benefit is aesthetics. Haswell does run better on 1866MHz RAM. Watch for sales, $72 for an 8GB kit is a fairly normal sale price these days. (unfortunately)
6) An i7 probably wont give you $100 worth of performance benefit over an i5 for gaming (link)
7) Do you live near a Micro Center? That's the best place to buy your CPU and mobo.

Thank you guys for checking out the parts for me.

FlyingFox you kinda misunderstood my question about the mobo and the case. The case is not really the problem but the mobo I want only has 6 holes in it. But when I place it in the case only 5 will be available because the lil "fake" stand off will take one of the holes. That's why I was asking this because I felt iffy about this.


The one main thing that i'm seeing here is that i should get an SSD + HDD.

The reason I didn't mention monitor and keyboard etc etc (or other non important parts like a drive or a card reader) is because i already have some. I've never built a PC but i'm not THAT PC illiterate =P

Ima try and squeeze in a 250 gig SSD and a HDD (on a side note why do HDD drives have such HORRIBLE reviews on newegg?) Soooo many DOA's no matter what brand. This is scary....

Again guys I CAN'T go over 1500 unless I save more money and honestly i'm tired of my current PC. 1500+ for a pc is not acceptable. You guys gotta understand that i'm not rich.

Yes it's true I can probably live without the sound card so I will subtract it from my list along with the SSHD to try to make room for the SSD + HDD.

The reason i'm going with the i7 4770K is cuz i want to be future proof. I don't new games to all of a sudden take advantage of 8 cores and then have to upgrade my cpu in the next year or so...I want this pc to last me a good 3+ years. So I don't want a core i5 even though when it comes to games the i7 isn't that much better.

I don't plan to OC THAT much maybe just up to like 4.3 or something. I'm aware that haswell isn't very good at OC.

That said I may remove the aftermarket CPU cooler to again free up more money.

Lastly about the hybrid drive, I can't say i'm 100% sold myself but it def seemed like a good option especially after reading people's reviews and seeing the benchmarks. They seem damned good to me. Sure it's not an SSD but it's way cheaper.

One last thing! LOL I'm NOT getting windows 8. That's final. I don't like it. I'm going with 7 but thank you for the tip regardless

EDIT JustAnEngineer, will that Gryphon mobo fit good onto that 200R case that i want? That's a neat lil mobo. The mobo says it's a uATX but my case says it only takes Micro ATX and ATX.

diasflacog wrote:

FlyingFox you kinda misunderstood my question about the mobo and the case. The case is not really the problem but the mobo I want only has 6 holes in it. But when I place it in the case only 5 will be available because the lil "fake" stand off will take one of the holes. That's why I was asking this because I felt iffy about this.

I did not. I looked up the installation guide PDF for the 200R and all 9 screws (if available) can be screwed in. Where is the fake one? I think I am going to need a reference that claimed there is a fake standoff with no screws.

That said, the EVO requires you to use its own custom mounting backplate, so that should be better than using the stock pinholes. The backplate should spread the pressure out even more so it should be ok. If your cooler is closer to 1kg then I would worry a little. If it makes you feel any better, assuming you are going with a tower case in a vertical position, the top 4 screws will be the most important. The 3 "missing" ones on the side are not that big of a deal if you think about it.

diasflacog wrote:

The one main thing that i'm seeing here is that i should get an SSD + HDD.

There is enough you can skimp on in your component list to achieve that. So why not?

diasflacog wrote:

The reason I didn't mention monitor and keyboard etc etc (or other non important parts like a drive or a card reader) is because i already have some. I've never built a PC but i'm not THAT PC illiterate =P

Then let us know what resolution you are going to game at. That should help settle the GPU decision.

diasflacog wrote:

Ima try and squeeze in a 250 gig SSD and a HDD (on a side note why do HDD drives have such HORRIBLE reviews on newegg?) Soooo many DOA's no matter what brand. This is scary....

Remember the fact that it is usually the people with problems that are the loudest. Overall quality has been down over the years. However, a lot of those DOAs are due to bad packaging and delivery guys just throw the stuff around. Just run the manufacturer's diagnostics immediately after you get the drive, and RMA asap if it happens.

diasflacog wrote:

The reason i'm going with the i7 4770K is cuz i want to be future proof. I don't new games to all of a sudden take advantage of 8 cores and then have to upgrade my cpu in the next year or so...I want this pc to last me a good 3+ years. So I don't want a core i5 even though when it comes to games the i7 isn't that much better.

Not any time soon with the 8 core things, especially Intel's 8-core. AMD's IPC has gotten behind very fast. Especially now that the new generation console baseline has been set. Also, the "8-core" in the i7 is hyperthreading "fake" cores anyway. It is not going to help too much if the cores are truly fully utilized.

diasflacog wrote:

I don't plan to OC THAT much maybe just up to like 4.3 or something. I'm aware that haswell isn't very good at OC.

Some reported that even 4.0 GHz is a problem. And you may need a lot more cooling than the Hyper+ EVO to get decent performance and temps. If you ask me I treat the EVO as a cheap means to avoid the noisier stock fan.

diasflacog wrote:

Lastly about the hybrid drive, I can't say i'm 100% sold myself but it def seemed like a good option especially after reading people's reviews and seeing the benchmarks. They seem damned good to me. Sure it's not an SSD but it's way cheaper.

If I were to speculate those positive reviews are relative to people on mechanical drives. Of course it is going to be an improvement. Even USB ReadyBoost is going to be better. Once you use an SSD, you can't quite go back.

diasflacog wrote:

One last thing! LOL I'm NOT getting windows 8. That's final. I don't like it. I'm going with 7 but thank you for the tip regardless

Only if you can find a good deal on Windows 7. Supplies of Win7 licenses are drying up and prices may stay high from now on. Windows 8.1 is not as bad as 8, and there are tools that you can install to restore old behaviours. For Win7 Home Premium, beware that your maximum physical memory is 16 gigs (limit for "regular" Windows 8+ is at 128 gigs) if going beyond is in future upgrade plans. Go to Professional if you need more RAM and the ability to Remote Desktop into the computer.

diasflacog wrote:

The mobo says it's a uATX but my case says it only takes Micro ATX and ATX.

µ (Greek letter "mu") is the metric prefix for "micro".

Flying Fox I saw a vid on youtube of a dude building on my case and he was like "Oh cool there's a lil standoff here that holds the mobo in place for you making it very easy to bolt in" He also only used 5 screws. I'll have to link the vid to you so you can see it. Unless this dude is totally retarded and doesn't know what he's doing then I don't know lol.

I'm going to game on my HD TV at 1920/1080. That's why I want a 770. Because I want to play with EVERYTHING turned on. All the eye candy! DX11 high level's of AA etc etc!! So no i'm not downgrading the video card. Sorry if i'm being a lil stubborn with some items.

On a note on the whole SSD stuff. Well keep in mind that ive never had an SSD I been using my HDD for 7 years now...So Anything is an improvement at this point hahahaha!

Here's the vid of the guy i'm talking about. he seems to know what he's doing IMO. But you check it out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0zOYdNEHDQo

He starts installing the mobo at 40:28 so fast foward it to that part. You will see what i'm talking about. He even says he only uses 5 screws! He's also using the exact case i'm getting.

JustAnEngineer, thank you for that. Ima go with that mobo instead.

At 1080p, I think a 760 or AMD equivalent will be more than enough. Someone can correct me if I am wrong.

Games are not going to be using 8 threads any time soon. Multithreaded usage is still spotty, so an i5 will take care of you.

Don't concern yourself too much with DOA reviews unless they're more than a similar product on Newegg. Buyers are more likely to write a review if something goes wrong, so having "DOA" reviews does not necesarily mean that it is a problem.

Windows 8 is more annoying than awful. I would recommend 8 because copies are easier to find, are generally cheaper, and the Home edition of 8 does not have a 16GB memory restriction that 7 Home Premium has. In order to use more than 16GB RAM with Win7, you would need to spend the premium for a Pro or Ultimate copy.

diasflacog wrote:

Again guys I CAN'T go over 1500 unless I save more money and honestly i'm tired of my current PC. 1500+ for a pc is not acceptable. You guys gotta understand that i'm not rich.

Dropping the sound card and getting the SeaSonic PSU saves you $70.
You don't NEED a $160 mobo where a $130 would still satisfy all your needs. ESPECIALLY if you're not going over stock voltage on a CPU overclock.
Some of us are suggesting that you save $100 going with an i5 instead of i7.
Furthermore, if you're really hard up for cash, a GTX 760 would be plenty for 1080p at High/Ultra settings. $80 saved.

Total saved ~ $280 with just the items I've listed. Not including sale prices. $180 is enough for a 240GB SSD. Shop sales/Microcenter and you can have your i7 and GTX 770 back.

Dont worry about the standoff (guide post) for the mobo. It's a non-issue. 5 screws are enough.

I looked at the prices and they seem to cost the same 99.

Sure i'm capped at 16 gigs, but i'm only going to be using 8 gigs. I have no plans on going over 16 gigs Anytime soon. Everyone who ive talked to tells me that going over 16 is pointless for what i'm going to use my Pc which is mostly gaming

As for gaming and 8 cores. The "next gen" consoles both have 8 core CPU's so since PC will get a bunch of console ports don't you think that maybe in the future PC's will also use 8 cores?

I already dropped the PSU I wanted for the seasonic one. Which is very reasonable. I can also drop the soundcard. But I really don't want to drop my i7 nor my 770. If an SSD bumped up my FPS in games maybe I would make the sacrifice. But from what I understand SSD's don't do anything for frames per second. Hell an 4770K makes more of an FPS difference than an SSD and of course the 770 makes an even bigger FPS difference. FPS is way more important than load times. Anyway's that just my reasoning behind my decisions.

Unless you're within pickup distance of Newegg in southern California, you'll have to pay shipping on some items.

DPete27 pointed out that Micro Center has unbeatable in-store deals on your processor+motherboard. Amazon or Directron could be less expensive sources than Newegg for some items. Check the combination deals available with each Newegg item before you add it to your cart. Combinations can add up to significant savings. You can use only one discount code or combination deal per item, but you can have multiple combination deals in your order.

diasflacog wrote:

Flying Fox I saw a vid on youtube of a dude building on my case and he was like "Oh cool there's a lil standoff here that holds the mobo in place for you making it very easy to bolt in" He also only used 5 screws. I'll have to link the vid to you so you can see it. Unless this dude is totally retarded and doesn't know what he's doing then I don't know lol.Here's the vid of the guy i'm talking about. he seems to know what he's doing IMO. But you check it out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0zOYdNEHDQo

He starts installing the mobo at 40:28 so fast foward it to that part. You will see what i'm talking about. He even says he only uses 5 screws! He's also using the exact case i'm getting.

The manual probably illustrates a more full sized ATX board, so the "extra row" shown in the video is used in the manual's case:
http://www.corsair.com/us/media/cms/man ... ISRChJ.pdf

There's some bad editing in the video because just before he mounted the screws he said 6, then he changed his tune to 5. Oops.

The one that you don't need screws for is a "standoff" that sticks out of the hole to help secure the motherboard in place. It should provide support as well. So don't worry unless you are getting a 1kg heatsink.

diasflacog wrote:

As for gaming and 8 cores. The "next gen" consoles both have 8 core CPU's so since PC will get a bunch of console ports don't you think that maybe in the future PC's will also use 8 cores?

That topic was quite thoroughly explored before. No, you should not have a problem. Mainly because a modern Haswell/Sandy core is much faster than those Jaguar cores.

When I saw the OP's post I almost hit the report button.

Flying Fox wrote:

No, you should not have a problem. Mainly because a modern Haswell/Sandy core is much faster than those Jaguar

My favorite comment in that thread is probably from Chrispy

Chrispy_ wrote:

A single 3570K core can run three threads sequentially faster than three Jaguar cores can run three threads in parallel.

diasflacog wrote:

Sure i'm capped at 16 gigs, but i'm only going to be using 8 gigs. I have no plans on going over 16 gigs Anytime soon. Everyone who ive talked to tells me that going over 16 is pointless for what i'm going to use my Pc which is mostly gaming

Correction, if you pick up the linked GTX 770, you are going to be using 10GB (8GB RAM + 2GB VRAM). Video memory counts toward the total. And even if you aren't planning on using that much right off the bat, it would be a silly limitation on your system when you can get virtually ulimited with Windows 8 (at the same price).

As for gaming and 8 cores. The "next gen" consoles both have 8 core CPU's so since PC will get a bunch of console ports don't you think that maybe in the future PC's will also use 8 cores?

Let's be clear on this, the next gen consoles have 8 core CPU's to catch up to PC hardware. Got that? The consoles are (already) terribly underpowered compared to PC hardware. They're not even hitting 1080p in current games, and even if they were, they'd be getting 30 FPS and not 60.

superjawes wrote:

Correction, if you pick up the linked GTX 770, you are going to be using 10GB (8GB RAM + 2GB VRAM). Video memory counts toward the total.

I don't believe that it does. For a 32-bit operating system, the graphics card's memory counts against the 4 GiB total address space. For a 64-bit system Windows Vista or Windows 7 system, the graphics card memory is in another addressing region and does not count against the 16 GiB limit that existed for market segmentation purposes.

I agree with most all of the suggestions by JustAnEngineer. However, I don't like this 200R case. Here is what I had previously written in another thread of these forums...

The only part I don't care for is the case; and I say that because I'm using the Corsair 200R in my main rig at the moment. At first glance it looks like a bargain, but it's got plenty of annoying quirks. For starters, the center motherboard standoff is noticeably taller than the surrounding motherboard mounts, meaning that if you just slap in your motherboard and crank it down, you'll be bending/flexing the board more than I'm comfortable with. The mounts and standoffs are not removable, so I had to use paper washers behind the board to even-out the height.

The metal used in the 200R is also extremely thin (this may not be immediately apparent because it's plastic polymer coated) and the slightest bit of vibration from hard drives (in their crappy plastic cage) or fans will cause the panels and front bezel to begin loudly rattling. I had to move one of my HDDs to a 5.25 bay with an adapter (with rubber isolators), and crank the front bezel down to the body of the case with zipties to get rid of the rattling.

There's also far too many fan mounts/vented locations to get any sort of positive/negative air pressure. You've six (6) 120mm fan mount locations, in addition to a vented rear panel, and vented slot covers. I do use a some fans, but that's way overkill. The case is practically wide open. I had to do extensive taping-off with black electrical tape from the inside.

So yeah, while it's not a "bad" case, I had to do a fair amount of modification to get it where I was comfortable with it. More trouble than it was worth.

For OP's consideration:

CPU
Core i5 4670K - $239.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6819116899

Motherboard
GIGABYTE GA-Z87X-UD4H - $184.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6813128617

RAM
G.SKILL Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 2133 - $69.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6820231653

HDD
Seagate Barracuda 2TB - $87.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6822148834

SSD
SAMSUNG 840 EVO - $114.54
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6820147247

GPU
EVGA SuperClocked GTX 780 3GB - $509.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6814130917

PSU
SeaSonic M12II Bronze 620W - $79.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6817151095

Case
Cooler Master HAF 912 - $59.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6811119233

CPU Cooler
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - $34.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6835103099

OS License
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit - OEM - $99.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 00524&SID=


Total: $1482.45

Note the system won't be silent during full load unless you are willing to change the PSU fan (thus voiding the warranty) and installing an aftermarket cooler for the video card (potentially warranty voiding if you damage the card).

That said, the system won't be very loud as is but although noise can be measured, it is something subjective and it will depend on many factors. What i'm trying to say is that if you do find it noisey, it's an easy fix but it will cost you an aditional $100 or so.

Arclight wrote:

For OP's consideration:

CPU
Core i5 4670K - $239.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6819116899

Motherboard
GIGABYTE GA-Z87X-UD4H - $184.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6813128617

RAM
G.SKILL Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 2133 - $69.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6820231653

HDD
Seagate Barracuda 2TB - $87.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6822148834

GPU
EVGA SuperClocked GTX 780 3GB - $509.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6814130917

PSU
SeaSonic M12II Bronze 620W - $79.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6817151095

Case
LIAN LI PC-9F Black - $124.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6811112304

CPU Cooler
Noctua NH-U12P SE2 - $79.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6835608014

Total: $1377.92

Note the system won't be silent during full load unless you are willing to change the PSU fan (thus voiding the warranty) and installing an aftermarket cooler for the video card (potentially warranty voiding if you damage the card).

That said, the system won't be very loud as is but although noise can be measured, it is something subjective and it will depend on many factors. What i'm trying to say is that if you do find it noisey, it's an easy fix but it will cost you an aditional $100 or so.

Without an SSD I won't wholeheartedly support this particular build. You don't need the 780 for 1080p for sure. The expensive motherboard has no value especially the OP is not going for crazy overclocks (which almost automatically means an even better cooler, like the Noctua's, plus other stuff).

Flying Fox wrote:

Arclight wrote:

For OP's consideration:

[...]

Total: $1377.92

[...]

Without an SSD I won't wholeheartedly support this particular build. You don't need the 780 for 1080p for sure. The expensive motherboard has no value especially the OP is not going for crazy overclocks (which almost automatically means an even better cooler, like the Noctua's, plus other stuff).

See revised proposal. It's all quality stuff regardless if he is going to overclock or not, maybe you just jelly.

Sorry if this comes along as picky and unhelpful, but I would suggest listing the part name in the post itself instead of just posting NewEgg links. I would have offered some suggestions but couldn't be arsed clicking on 10 different links to figure out what you were shooting for.

Arclight wrote:

For OP's consideration:

[...]

Total: $1492.46

[...]

Even with the revision, that list excludes a copy of Windows, which would put it over OP's $1,500 budget.

At 1080p, even a 770 is overkill. Drop down to a 760 like this ($250) and that will free up more than enough for a copy of Windows.

Case choices are very subjective (and entirely depend on what the user/builder wants). Same goes for aftermarket CPU coolers, for that matter. They are usually cooler and quieter than stock fans, but stock is still functional under normal conditions.

Arclight wrote:

For OP's consideration:

I think you may have skipped an OS and I think an SSD is going to make a more noticably positive experience than the significantly more expensive case and cooler - or even the 780 gaming at 1080p. If the OP was going to spend more on the case, I'm partial to the Fractal Define R4: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6811352020
Things like cases and mobos are so subjective, I know it's always what I've spent the most time deciding on and a case in particular can last through many builds if it's a good one. I know my old P180 went through about 3 builds before i moved to the R4 last year. Only the OP really knows what his mobo needs are - outside of supporting everything else in the build. The one from the system guide seems pretty nice to me: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6813131981
Good luck!

Prestige Worldwide being picky and unhelpful wrote:

I would have offered some suggestions but couldn't be arsed clicking on 10 different links to figure out what you were shooting for.

You might have noticed that I did list the prices, part names and descriptions for all of the OP's links in the first reply to this thread.

Just like JAE said get the sound blaster Z card you will not be disappointed.

As for the PSU Corsairs TX750 for 99$ is a great PSU which I am almost positive is made by seasonic..I know my TX850v2 is. On top of that they are silent.

As for a cooler the new Corsair h-75 looks like a nice AIO cooler and performs well...definitely better then a hyper 212 evo. Haswel runs hot so do not skimp on the cooler if you plan on overclocking. Cooler Master Seidon 120M cools a good bit better then the hyper 212 and is only 25$ more.

vargis14 wrote:

Just like JAE said get the sound blaster Z card you will not be disappointed.

As for the PSU Corsairs TX750 for 99$ is a great PSU which I am almost positive is made by seasonic..I know my TX850v2 is. On top of that they are silent.

As for a cooler the new Corsair h-75 looks like a nice AIO cooler and performs well...definitely better then a hyper 212 evo. Haswel runs hot so do not skimp on the cooler if you plan on overclocking. Cooler Master Seidon 120M cools a good bit better then the hyper 212 and is only 25$ more.

We are trying to help him squeeze in an SSD in addition to a mechanical HDD while remaining under the fixed $1500 budget. Please follow the thread more carefully.

superjawes wrote:

Arclight wrote:

For OP's consideration:

[...]

Total: $1492.46

[...]

Even with the revision, that list excludes a copy of Windows, which would put it over OP's $1,500 budget.

At 1080p, even a 770 is overkill. Drop down to a 760 like this ($250) and that will free up more than enough for a copy of Windows.

Case choices are very subjective (and entirely depend on what the user/builder wants). Same goes for aftermarket CPU coolers, for that matter. They are usually cooler and quieter than stock fans, but stock is still functional under normal conditions.

Revised again.