New Build - Browsing / minor-graphics/gaming - $1500

[integer]

I'm targeting a build for the first week of December, and would like the very helpful people at TR to have a look before I buy.

Why wait till then? - Just hoping to catch some Thanksgivings deals.

Usage - I browse a lot, along with MS Office-related work. I would be working on graphics related apps like Inkscape, GIMP at leisure. In gaming, I am looking forward to play a bit of some driving/racing related games, the last game that I've enjoyed playing being 18 Wheels of Steel.

Here's what I've come up with

1. Processor - Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 - $165 - Purchased Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 in a processor-motherboard combo for $245. Thanks Zyntak09 and eric93se
An alternative is E8500. Based on Scott's review, I think I needn't go for the i7 immediately.

2. Motherboard - ASUS P5Q SE PLUS LGA 775 Intel P45 ATX - $82 (after MIR) - Purchased Asus P5Q Pro in a combo deal. Thanks.
An alternative is the EP45-DS3L from Gigabyte. I don't think I need RAID or the second PCI-e slot, but let me know if you think I may need it. No real reason why I am going for Asus either. So if you think Gigabyte is better for the price/performance, post back.

3. RAM - Corsair 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 - $25 (before MIR) - Purchased for $55 (before MIR). Thank you.
Seems like a nice rebate is on. Is the 1.9V ok? Or should I go for the G-Skills or Mushkins at around $45-50.

4. Graphics card - MSI N9600GT-T2D512-OC GeForce 9600 GT 512MB - $75 (after MIR) ASUS EAH4830/HTDP/512MD3 Radeon HD 4830 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 - $100 (after MIR) - Purchased SAPPHIRE 100265L Radeon HD 4830 - $115. Thanks JustAnEngineer
Or should I go for the HD3850? I don't have any brand preference. And, my graphics needs have been explained earlier. Changed based on JAE's suggestion. I don't have any particular brand/specs in mind. Your advice would be helpful.
Went ahead with

5. Case and power supply - Antec Sonata III with 500 W Power Supply - $75 - Purchased Antec Sonata III with 500 W Power Supply. Thank you eric93se.
Interested in the Antec P182 case quite a bit, but I am reluctant to take it, in case I would have to relocate anywhere (overseas travel with a computer case?)
Note: There is a combo for the E8400 and the Lian-Li PC-B25B case for $324, which looks interesting.

6. Hard disk - [s]Western Digital Caviar Black WD6401AALS 640GB - $85 - Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD6400AAKS - $70 Purchased Western Digital Caviar SE16 for $70. Thanks.
The current forum favourite and I am fine going with it. Corrected based on TR's Christmas System Drive's Utility Player configuration. Changed back as no one has replied about any value going for the Caviar Black.

7. Monitor - DoubleSight DS-265W Black 26" 5ms(GTG) Widescreen LCD Monitor - $670 (after MIR) HP 24" LP2475W - $576 - Purchased HP 24" LP2475W from TechOnWeb for $588 with free shipping. Thanks JustAnEngineer.
Most forum members keep stressing on a non-TN panel, so I have my eyes on this one and a few IPS 24"ers. If there are better value monitors, please recommend. Monitor changed on JAE's suggestion.

8. Operating System - Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium SP1 64-bit(OEM) - $80 - Purchased Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium SP1 64-bit for $80. Thanks.
Would consider dual-booting with a Linux OS.

9. Optical drive - Samsung DVD Burner SH-S223F - $25 or LITE-ON Black 6X Blu-ray DVD-ROM - $130 LG Black 6X Blu-ray - $150
Is it worth going for Blu-ray already? Added Blu-Ray drive from TR's 2008 Christmas System Guide's Utility Player. Purchased LG Black 6X Blu-ray - OEM for $95. Thank you.

10. Keyboard - Simple Logitech keyboard - $15 Purchased the Logitech Access 600 Keyboard for $33 with shipping.
After having worked with laptops, I like the keys which don't 'go in' a great distance. If there are any specific recommendations for that, please post. Also, is it ok going with a USB keyboard or is a PS/2 one needed?

11. Mice - Logitech mouse with 6 buttons - $25 Purchased the MX-310 for $33 (with shipping)
I think I read some post by JAE about mice with more than 2 keys, which got me interested in multi-key mice. Never used one before.

12. Etc. - Heatsinks, Fans, Speakers
I plan to do some minor overclocking seeing that almost everyone does it these days. Also, TR has put up a neat article on it. Would I still need these?
Wouldn't need speakers as I can't play music too loud and have got some neat Denon headphones already. Yes, so I need front panel audio connectors on the case.

13. Sound card - ASUS Xonar DX 7.1 - $65 (after MIR)
Added the sound card from TR's latest System guide. Removed the sound card. To be added later on, if needed.

Total - $1,382 $1,447 $1,363 $1,463 $1,398 $1,378 (with MIRs)

I see some deals in Newegg ending today. Should I grab those or wait for more deals the coming week?

That's it. I welcome all your suggestions and helpful advices. Some of you, like JAE, have an eye for good deals. Thanks in advance for those too.

[TheEmrys]

Seeing as your put the majority of your money into the monitor, it looks pretty good. The only couple of options I'd look at:

4. You get an awful lot more performance out of a 9800GT or even all the way up to a 4850. For ~$50 more you can be at a very, very nice place. Do you fold? You should, for any team. 9800GT is great for folding (if gaming is really the non-issue you imply). I use a 9600GT and its great up to 1680x1050. Beyond that, you'll want more horsepower.

6. I've become a huge fan of the Samsung Spinpoint F1 drives. Check them out. http://www.techreport.com/articles.x/14200 Its worth a look.

8. With 4 gigs of ram, make sure you get the 64-bit version of Vista.

As it is, its great. These options are just that: options. You could order what you have and have a great system.

[JustAnEngineer]

InTeGeR13-- That looks like a pretty good build to me.

2. Motherboard - ASUS P5Q SE PLUS LGA 775 Intel P45 ATX - $82 (after MIR)
An alternative is the EP45-DS3L from Gigabyte. I don't think I need RAID or the second PCI-e slot, but let me know if you think I may need it. No real reason why I am going for Asus either. So if you think Gigabyte is better for the price/performance, post back.

Those are fine. I'd probably spend $5 more on the Asus P5Q SE/R to get the RAID that you don't want.

4. Graphics card - MSI N9600GT-T2D512-OC GeForce 9600 GT 512MB - $75 (after MIR)
Or should I go for the HD3850? I don't have any brand preference. And, my graphics needs have been explained earlier.

I would not get the HD3850, but a Radeon HD4830 or HD4850 would be a very good choice for $20 or $60 more, respectively. Read TR's review of the Radeon HD4830 here.

5. Case and power supply - Antec Sonata III with 500 W Power Supply - $130
Interested in the Antec P182 case quite a bit, but I am reluctant to take it, in case I would have to relocate anywhere (overseas travel with a computer case?)

If you really like the P182, why not? At 21.3 x 8.1 x 19.9”, it's only slightly larger than the Sonata III at 16.7 x 8.1 x 18.2". You'd get a cheap notebook for overseas travel, right? I managed to get my P182 for less than Newegg's current $150 with free shipping.

7. Monitor - DoubleSight DS-265W Black 26" 5ms(GTG) Widescreen LCD Monitor - $670 (after MIR)
Most forum members keep stressing on a non-TN panel, so I have my eyes on this one and a few IPS 24"ers. If there are better value monitors, please recommend.

The HP 2475w has been receiving favorable press. I am definitely in favor of choosing the 1920x1200 resolution.

9. Optical drive - Samsung DVD Burner SH-S223F - $25
Is it worth going for Blu-ray already?

Do you have a PlayStation 3 hooked to a large HDTV already? If not, it could be nice to watch Blu-ray movies on your PC. I don't see any need to worry about reading or writing Blu-ray for PC data, but Blu-ray movies are tremendously better than DVD.

10. Keyboard - Simple Logitech keyboard - $15
After having worked with laptops, I like the keys which don't 'go in' a great distance. If there are any specific recommendations for that, please post. Also, is it ok going with a USB keyboard or is a PS/2 one needed?
11. Mice - Logitech mouse with 6 buttons - $25
I think I read some post by JAE about mice with more than 2 keys, which got me interested in multi-key mice. Never used one before.

You can get your keyboard and mouse together. Your local Buy More may be a good place to audition new keyboards. Take a look at Microsoft's A4B-00007, 4GC-00002, K48-00019, 69C-00006, 69A-00001, 69M-00006S and 69A-00001, as well as Logitech's LX310, 920-000526, 967692-0403, LX710 and MX3200. I like a cordless mouse with 5 buttons. Button 4 is assigned to the "back" function in your browser, which is tremendously handy.

Wouldn't need speakers as I can't play music too loud and have got some neat Denon headphones already.

A small 2.1-channel speaker set would be useful for everyday use and for movie viewing. You can also audition these at your local Buy More store. The inexpensive Logitech systems don't sound bad, considering their price.

[Zyntak09]

Hey, If you are getting the E8400 you might as well get the P5Q Pro in a combo deal with it. Saves you $30. It also has a $15 MIR, so it comes out to be $70. I just bought that combo deal and will be building it on Wednesday! w00t!

[integer]

Thanks a lot for all your replies.

You get an awful lot more performance out of a 9800GT or even all the way up to a 4850. For ~$50 more you can be at a very, very nice place. Do you fold? You should, for any team.

I would not get the HD3850, but a Radeon HD4830 or HD4850 would be a very good choice for $20 or $60 more, respectively. Read TR's review of the Radeon HD4830 here.

I am now considering upgrading the graphics card to the HD4830. I would be folding or contributing to some distributing computing project anyway.

The HP 2475w has been receiving favorable press. I am definitely in favor of choosing the 1920x1200 resolution.

I had my eye on this one, but couldn't spot it on Newegg. I found it on other stores like Buy.com for around $580 and am considering it.

Blu-ray movies are tremendously better than DVD.

Is the software to play Blu-ray movies good enough already? I have read poor reviews about them, so was wondering. No, I don't have a PS3 or any standalone Blu-ray player.

You can get your keyboard and mouse together. Your local Buy More may be a good place to audition new keyboards.

Thanks a lot JAE for the long list of recommendations. Might drop by computer shops around to have a look.

I am assuming I wouldn't need heatsinks, fans now. Thanks again for all your inputs.

[eric93se]

A free program that can do 1080P is KMplayer, its great I like it better than VLC player, it can play pretty much anything.

That E8400 with the Asus P5Q pro combo deal seems really good to me

[integer]

That E8400 with the Asus P5Q pro combo deal seems really good to me

There seems to be an even sweeter deal with the LIAN LI PC-B25B case for $324. Any ideas about the case? I am comparing it with the Antec P182.

[eric93se]

The Antec Sonata III case/PSU is onsale right now for $75 FS. LianLi makes some really nice cases but they are very expensive, that case is also bigger than the sonata by around 2".

[integer]

The Antec Sonata III case/PSU is onsale right now for $75 FS. LianLi makes some really nice cases but they are very expensive, that case is also bigger than the sonata by around 2".

Ya, looks like I am going to pull the trigger on that one finally. Thanks for the find.

[integer]

I've made some corrections to the build. Please comment on them.

Purchased the RAM and the case/PSU, so I've struck those out.

1. TR's latest Utility player comes with GIGABYTE GA-EP45-UD3P at $117 (after MIR). Asus's P5Q Pro seems to be similar to it at $100 (after MIR). Which could I go for, or is my original selection fine.

2. Graphics card - Changed it to the HD 4830. TR's Utility player has the HD 4850 for $30 more. Should I go for it?

3. Hard-disk - Changed it to WD Caviar Black. Not too sure if the $15 justifies the extended warranty and the performance increase.

4. Monitor - Changed it to HP LP2475W

5. Sound Card - Added Asus DX 7.1

[eric93se]

Everything looks good. The only thing I would suggest is to stick with the onboard audio because its very good and put that money towards some quality speakers.

[JustAnEngineer]

Unless you're recording audio, the on-board sound is probably okay. A sound card is a very easy item to add later if you decide that you are unhappy with the integrated audio.

[Voldenuit]

Wouldn't need speakers as I can't play music too loud and have got some neat Denon headphones already. Yes, so I need front panel audio connectors on the case.

13. Sound card - ASUS Xonar DX 7.1 - $65 (after MIR)
Added the sound card from TR's latest System guide.

If you're using the Xonar DX, bear in mind that the Asus drivers are not smart enough to auto-switch between the headphones and the external speakers when you plug them in.

Stupid, stupid asses, I mean, ASUS.

[integer]

Unless you're recording audio, the on-board sound is probably okay. A sound card is a very easy item to add later if you decide that you are unhappy with the integrated audio.

Thanks JAE. I was convinced by this line in the guide - Unless you plan to use $5 RadioShack headphones forever, you won't regret this purchase. So now, I am confused.

[FuturePastNow]

12. Etc. - Heatsinks, Fans, Speakers
I plan to do some minor overclocking seeing that almost everyone does it these days. Also, TR has put up a neat article on it. Would I still need these?

If you plan to do any overclocking at all, or just want a cooler system, I'd definitely look at replacing the stock Intel cooler. I'm sure others can suggest big, expensive heatsinks, but at the very least I would recommend something like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835114073 that uses a bolt-through mounting and is beefier than the Intel HSF.

[Skrying]

Unless you're recording audio, the on-board sound is probably okay. A sound card is a very easy item to add later if you decide that you are unhappy with the integrated audio.

Thanks JAE. I was convinced by this line in the guide - Unless you plan to use $5 RadioShack headphones forever, you won't regret this purchase. So now, I am confused.

TR really pushes the Sonar, which is not exactly a bad thing but I think they need to be more honest. That off hand $5 headphone comment isn't really helpful. I'd say shy away from a dedicated sound card till you start spending higher amounts of a good set of speakers or headphones. Something in the $300+ range in speakers or $100 plus in headphones (and quality headphones, those "gamer" headphones are NOT good choices). I consider myself a music lover and my music rig is up there (I've spent thousands on headphones alone) but unless you know you're serious about your audio its something you should grow into and not jump right into.

[JustAnEngineer]

If you're going to spend a bundle on a sound card to get noise-free sound, you're probably going to want one that has a separate headphone amplifier rather than just plugging into a card that resides in the noisy EM environment next to the motherboard and processor.

[eric93se]

M-audio has some good speakers to check out. Note the pricing on the single speaker is for one. The Studiophile AV 40 sells for $150 at the egg for the pair. Its hard to beat the deals on self powered speakers these days. I personally build speakers as a hobby and have a pair of 7" Focal midbass midrange drivers that are just begging me to put in a box, its just really hard to find a pair of tweeter that are as efficient and resonably priced to match them.

http://www.m-audio.com/index.php?do=pro ... iomonitors

There's a good deal for the AV40's at buy.com, there might be an 8% off coupon somewhere out there too:
http://www.buy.com/prod/avid-m-audio-st ... 37262.html

[integer]

Unless you're recording audio, the on-board sound is probably okay. A sound card is a very easy item to add later if you decide that you are unhappy with the integrated audio.

Thanks JAE. I was convinced by this line in the guide - Unless you plan to use $5 RadioShack headphones forever, you won't regret this purchase. So now, I am confused.

TR really pushes the Sonar, which is not exactly a bad thing but I think they need to be more honest. That off hand $5 headphone comment isn't really helpful. I'd say shy away from a dedicated sound card till you start spending higher amounts of a good set of speakers or headphones. Something in the $300+ range in speakers or $100 plus in headphones (and quality headphones, those "gamer" headphones are NOT good choices). I consider myself a music lover and my music rig is up there (I've spent thousands on headphones alone) but unless you know you're serious about your audio its something you should grow into and not jump right into.

If you're going to spend a bundle on a sound card to get noise-free sound, you're probably going to want one that has a separate headphone amplifier rather than just plugging into a card that resides in the noisy EM environment next to the motherboard and processor.

Thanks guys. I've revised the build now. Will get a sound card if needed later on.

Btw, how about this suggestion?

at the very least I would recommend something like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6835114073 that uses a bolt-through mounting and is beefier than the Intel HSF.

[eric93se]

Wow for $25 I wouldn't get that POS. This ones on sale and kicks butt:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... &Tpk=FZ120, ZEROtherm ZEN FZ120, $14 AR FS

To check out the latest comparison chart:
http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.c ... 33&page=5v

[Skrying]

The best values in heatsinks right now are the Xigamatek HDT-S1283 or Sunbeam Core Contact. $31 and $40 respectively. The Core Contact is currently the best performing heatsink for Intel processors according to Frostytech and is much cheaper than it's closest rival (the Thermalright Ultra Extreme 120). I personally would really stay away from rebates right now, or at least don't count on them to rebound your prices lower and instead consider them a nice potential bonus.

[eric93se]

The best values in heatsinks right now are the Xigamatek HDT-S1283 or Sunbeam Core Contact. $31 and $40 respectively. The Core Contact is currently the best performing heatsink for Intel processors according to Frostytech and is much cheaper than it's closest rival (the Thermalright Ultra Extreme 120). I personally would really stay away from rebates right now, or at least don't count on them to rebound your prices lower and instead consider them a nice potential bonus.

Iagree that those are better, but the FZ120 is half the price of them and performs within a couple degrees, also its as much as 4db quieter than the others which is huge. The FZ also has the bolt through system while the other don't (big selling point IMO)

Nice to see others quoting frostytech too now

[Skrying]

The Zerotherm costs more. You don't get rebates when you buy an item, and considering the current state of computer related rebates (the largest supplier filed for bankruptcy) I really wouldn't count on them these days. But people are different, I'm very much against thinking of rebates as literally lowering cost as they don't when you actually go to purchase an item, which is the budget most people work with.

[FuturePastNow]

Wow for $25 I wouldn't get that POS. This ones on sale and kicks butt:

I just picked the cheapest one with both bolt-through mounting and a 4-pin PWM fan. I wasn't looking at after rebate prices.

[eric93se]

I've purchased two zerotherm coolers in the past and have received both of their rebates. If you haters look at the OP you will see that he is quite fond of MIR's

[Skrying]

I've purchased two zerotherm coolers in the past and have received both of their rebates. If you haters look at the OP you will see that he is quite fond of MIR's

Like I said, to each their own. When I buy a computer I have a strict price and that is cash on hand so rebates don't extend what I can purchase in any way, they're just a nice thing after on. Now if you use a credit card or some other form of credit (and you're responsible!) then I can see how some might really like them. I really don't think the OP can go wrong with either the Zerotherm or Xigmatek though, both quality heatsinks!

[integer]

So, both Skrying and eric93se agree that I do need a heatsink. Both the models look large and I don't know how easy they are to install. I have factored rebates in (and hope I get them), so I first need to decide (based on opinion) whether I need the heatsink or not.

[integer]

Updates:
1. Operating System - Purchased for $80 from Newegg.
2. Processor and Motherboard - Picked up the E8400 and Asus P5Q Pro combo for $245 with free shipping. Thanks Zyntak09 and eric93se.

[MrJP]

The best values in heatsinks right now are the Xigamatek HDT-S1283 or Sunbeam Core Contact. $31 and $40 respectively. The Core Contact is currently the best performing heatsink for Intel processors according to Frostytech and is much cheaper than it's closest rival (the Thermalright Ultra Extreme 120). I personally would really stay away from rebates right now, or at least don't count on them to rebound your prices lower and instead consider them a nice potential bonus.

Iagree that those are better, but the FZ120 is half the price of them and performs within a couple degrees, also its as much as 4db quieter than the others which is huge. The FZ also has the bolt through system while the other don't (big selling point IMO)

Nice to see others quoting frostytech too now

Just FYI, you can turn the Xigmatek into a bolt-through mounting simply by adding this. I wouldn't be surprised if you could also use it with the Sunbeam given the similarity between the two cooler designs.

[integer]

What do you think about this mouse - Logitech MX Revolution Cordless Laser mouse - $40 (from Slickdeals)