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THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!! Especially to butt4tom for the written instructions, nmaxday for the photos, and Professor for the youtube video link!!!!!
You were all fantastic. Thanks for saving me a bundle getting my LNS4061 power on (or lack thereof) problem solved. This is my first HDTV and it's only 21 months old. Needless to say that I will NEVER BUY ANOTHER SAMSUNG PRODUCT OF ANY KIND! Less than an hour of my time and only $17 bucks @ Radio Shack for everything including the soldering iron kit. I am a happy camper once again! I am so glad I accidentally stumbled upon the TR Forums site, and I was amazed at the multitudes of others that had the same problem. I read all 8 pages in the Forum regarding this problem and it really makes me wonder how many more are out there that we don't know about. I now understand that Samsung is an ancient oriental word meaning "rip-off".

Hi. Just wanted to add my experience to this thread. I've got a Samsung LE40R88BD LCD tv (almost same as the LNS4051 I think but the European model). I was experiencing similar problems to everyone else, the tv would come on for around 30 seconds, then power itself off again. Then it would power on/off until it was unplugged. So, I opened it up hoping to find the bulging capacitors. Unfortunately they didn't seem to be damaged, no bulging at all and no leakage, however capacitor CP802 (10uF, 50V) did seem to have some leakage on it, so I replaced this one but it didn't solve the problem. So, I then replaced the four larger capacitors as described on this thread.....and as if by magic the tv sprung back into life!
So, even if the capacitors don't have any leakage or bulging it doesn't mean they aren't faulty.

Big thanks to everyone who posted here and helped me fix the problem!!

THANKS to ALL

I have a LN-T4671F Samsung - started taking longer and longer to turn on - clicking etc
Opened TV - 2 blown capacitors 2200mf 10V

Ordered new capacitors from Allied Electronics:
http://www.alliedelec.com/actives-and-p ... 4294839100

Hadn't soldered in 25 years - opened TV , took out power supply board - replaced 2200mf 10v with 2200mf 25V, also replaced 1000mf 10V (which looked OK )
with a 1000mf 16V

Put it all back together - turned it on and VOILA - success
Can't THANK everyone enough - I sent an e-mail to 60 folks and 5 had the same problem with their Samsungs

I want to also say thank you to everyone who had question/answers on this post...

I too have a LNS4051 and had the clicking power issue as well..

I went to radioshack but unfortunately they only had 2 1000uf capacitors in stock so i drove to another about 15 miles away to get two more...

Came home and it took me about 30-45 mins to to get 4 capacitors replaced...

This worked like a charm.

Thank You to everyone once again....

I am simply speechless. My LNS4051 died two days ago, and the repair shop quoted over $1000 to repair. Needless to say, I was just going to junk it and buy a new TV when I found this thread. $28 later, I've got a perfectly working set again. I was skeptical that this was going to work, because before my set stopped coming on, the display had totally freaked out. But several hours after completing repairs, it's still working perfectly.

I can't tell you how awesome this is!!! Thank you all for the info you've posted. Add me to the list of people that will think long and hard before purchasing another Samsung product. Between them and my long standing boycott of anything with a Sony label, my options are getting limited.

hello new to this forumbut its seem i experiencing a common problem the information offer is geat and very helpfull
well I have a LNS4051 with the same issue and I open the tv to find two buldging 1000uf 10v 105c caps
I could only find 1000uf 35v 85c the same one as in the pics made by samsung from sylan company from the above pics
I completed the install and the problem still presist the red light blinks and clicking noise
I double checked all the polarity on the caps everything seems normal.
Any help ? thanks

This is great information. I have the Samsung LN4665F 46" model and had the same problem just after 1 year when the warranty expired. I had Sears come in to take a look. The swollen capacitor was the issue. They changed the whole power supply costing $173 and $207 for labor. It worked fine for a little more than 3 months just enough to exceed the Sears parts warranty and started giving me the same problem. This time I will open the TV myself. The pictures are a great help.
I will definitely steer clear of Samsung in the future.

topdawg wrote:

I completed the install and the problem still presist the red light blinks and clicking noise
I double checked all the polarity on the caps everything seems normal.
Any help ? thanks

Did you replace all 4 of the identified caps, or just the 2 that were bulging? It's been pointed out here that just because they're not visibly defective doesn't mean they're not bad.

Hello i am new to the forum and my first time trying to fix a tv . So here goes I have a samsung lns4051 and I am having rhe same problem mention in this forum it will not turn on. So after some heavy research I wanted to attempt to repair the tv myself, I didn't find the exact replacement caps the caps removed from the tv were 1000uf 10v 105c and i replaced them with 1000cf 65v 85c. After installing the new caps the tv stilll does not turn on . I inspected the polarity of the caps that i replaced to see if i made a mistake but they were installed as i took them out . The tv still just clicks .. Can anyone help with some advice ?

Just wanted to let everyone know that I am another success story with the radio shack trip and replacement of capacitors! I have a LN-T4661-F that I bought at circuit city in June 2007. The tv started to click and click and finally turn on with pink and green stuck pixels all over. I replaced the caps (three 1000uf were bulging) and it powered on the first time like it used to in the good old days!!! Thank you to everyone who has taken time to contribute to this forum. If Samsung is following this I am sure they are ecstatic that people are spending their own time and money to fix this issue. Too bad that I am probably going to be a Sony / Panasonic guy from here on out. No excuse for not facing the music on this issue Samsung!

THANKs TO EVERYONE WHO PROVIDED THE GREAT INFO! I found this while googling my problem and fixed my Samsung for $25. never touched an electronics board before, but the instructions were great and it worked!

Count me in as another 'victim' of this samsung scam.
In Sep 07, I bought LNS2738D (Samsung 27" HDTV) for $890. I guess I was lucky it lasted more than 2 years!! Till morning of 1st Nov 09, it was working fine... no issues at all. But in evening, it simply wont turn ON. Red light stayed on all the time, but nothing else. No clicking sound like many of you have noticed. As listed in so-called "troubleshooting" options in its manual, I unplugged and plugged it back. Still nothing. This time, even red light would not turn on. I waited for few mins and tried again. This time, red light would turn on for a split second and then again OFF.
I called samsung and of course, they said they cannot help me as tv is out of warranty. Only option is to give it for service where I would need to pay all cost (minimum $200 plus parts and labor). This is a ripoff... can buy new tv with better brands like Vizio or Emerson for that money.

After reading through different experiences from all ppl in this forum, I opened back panel and carefully looked at all capacitors, resistors and almost all chips on all boards.. specially power board. But none of capacitors or any parts seem to have lost shape. Top of capacitors were in perfect cross without any bulge or leakage.
Could someone help me in figuring what else could go wrong? Appreciate all help from all ppl in this forum...

topdawg wrote:

Hello i am new to the forum and my first time trying to fix a tv . So here goes I have a samsung lns4051 and I am having rhe same problem mention in this forum it will not turn on. So after some heavy research I wanted to attempt to repair the tv myself, I didn't find the exact replacement caps the caps removed from the tv were 1000uf 10v 105c and i replaced them with 1000cf 65v 85c. After installing the new caps the tv stilll does not turn on . I inspected the polarity of the caps that i replaced to see if i made a mistake but they were installed as i took them out . The tv still just clicks .. Can anyone help with some advice ?

I merged this with the "mother thread".

-Sam

Hi. I got a Samsung 50 Plasma TV and the same problem. Turn it on, blink 4 times and nothing happens.
The solutions in this forums apply to my TV?

Thanks

Hi there since changing my capacitors the tv seemed to be working fine till I went to watch a dvd and have now noticed it is no longer recognising my hdmi port, does anyone have any advice on this at all???? Thanks in advance (

Add me to the list of thank yous. LNT4665 is now functional after replacing two 2200uF caps.

Thanks again,

Steve

I, too, had the capacitors on my Samsung LCD TV fail (model LNT4065f). This forum was extremely helpful and I am extremely grateful to everyone who contributed solutions and tips. One note: My LCD TV exhibited some other symptoms before the Click-O-Death. About two weeks before the C-O-D, upon startup, the screen would exhibit colored speckles. A restart, with an ominous "double-click," would clear away the speckles. My internet searches for a cause/fix were fruitless. Eventually the TV quit starting altogether and I found this site and the solution. Out of 7 capacitors on the low power side of the power board, 4 were swollen and 2 were leaking. Replaced all 7 and all is well. Thanks once again.

I have replaced some faulty capacitors on my samsung le40r87bdx/xeu tv motherboard, but i still cant get freeview or normal tv stations,and my screen is ghosting.Should i replace the other 2 that didnt look faulty,or could it possibly the mother board that is causing the problem now.Any assistance would be much appreciated.THANKS.

This is for ajlwhite. Please advise which 2200 MF capacitor you purchased from Allied. I followed the link and was not able to locate a 2200 mf capacitor.

Thanks in advance.

Hey Zazik!

Thanks so much for helping me with the repair!

I dont usually post on this forum, initial purpose was to do some research on the problem I was encountering (in this case, clicking noises and lcd taking up to 5 mins to come on), very similar to what zazik had described. Anyway to cut a long story short, sent a msg to zazik and asked him some questions, he replied almost immediately, and he was nice enough to come by my place in Richmond Hill to take a look at my samsung 4051D, isolated the problem and got the capacitors to replace the faulty ones.

IT WORKED LIKE A CHARM!!! Just saved myself the cost of a new TV or the cost of a costly repair bill!!!

THANKS Zazik!

zazik wrote:

Hi, huge thanks for the finding, I did it myself, my LN-S4041D is working as good as new.

This is how it looks from the back after cover has been removed (19 screws! )
Big light PCB is a power supply board, our caps are on its upper right corner.


Here is a close up of those four capacitors, as you can see they are inflated, on top of two middle ones there is a dark spot of burnt electrolyte.


This is an image from the side, all four of them bumped


I unsoldered them, here you can see their marks CM812, CM817, CM811 and CS806.
All four are rated 1000mF 10V, I didn't touch others that look good, they are rated for 25V.


I'm in Canada, we have other store for electronic components: SAYAL, I found there 1000mF 35V for $1.35 CAD each, they are also made by Samsung
By the way, original capacitors are designed for maximum working temperature of 105C, new ones however for 85C, I hope it won't come to that.


35V capacitors are 25-30% bigger, do not cut the legs right away, first solder then cut, solder above PCB to give a little more freedom. Sorry for the background


This is how it looks after rework, as you can see, unlike original ones, they are touching each other.


Here is a view from the angle, a small one on the right CM809 has been pushed by a bigger capacitor a little, so keep in mind to leave some extra length on legs to pull it away from it after soldering.


Good luck and don't be afraid, it just needs a little patience (for better experience) a little fear (for caution) and a strong wish to save money (I hope it’s worth it) .

Hi there...new user on this board, and registered specifically to ask about this problem.

I've got a Samsung 37" LCD model LN-T375HA purchased August 2007. About 4-5 months ago it having a problem starting up. It would power on, the picture and sound would come on, and then the screen would go black, but the sound would remain on. To correct it, I would have to power the set OFF/ON until the picture would stay on. The other work-around would be to toggle the TV INPUT until the picture remained on. At first, it would only require doing this once or twice and it would work. As time has gone by, it requires more and more of these "toggle" cycles, and I suspect at some point my work-around will cease to be effective.

In searching the web for info on this, I found several sites with suggestions about the bulging capacitors. I haven't taken the TV apart yet, and thought it might be worthwhile to ask if this behavior has been seen by others, and if so, if the capacitor swap-out might be a possible fix?

I appreciate your input...

Thanks

Hi folks, our LNS 4041 conked out yesterday. It was increasingly getting slower to turn on, then yesterday, the constant clicking/led flashing. The call to Samsung yielded the same as others. After delighted with the discovery of this site, my wife and I opened the set and viola, 4 capacitors bulged out and a couple leaking liquid. We visited three Radio shacks and finally collected four 1000uf 35V capacitors. Neither of us had any soldering experience, so we worked on it slowly. Once all done, we placed the board back on and turned the power button on the remote...it clicked faster than before several times, about 15 seconds, and the TV switched on...but we heard a small "pop" sound and we quickly unplugged the set. Upon inspection, one of the new capacitors was bulged out and apparently it popped. Needless to say, this was a major disappointment. We have some questions for the experts. What could be the cause of this? Bad soldering and it bled to other sections? Polarity error (we tried to make sure on this but...)? Do you think the rest of the new capacitors are bad now? Do we need to start all over again with 4 new capacitors? If our soldering (or this "pop") has caused damage to the board, we'd like to order the IP board all together, BUT, wouldn't replacing it with another Samsung board be the repeat of the same? There's a board under the brand Green Choice about $15 cheaper at Encompass parts. Would this be a better buy? Sorry for the many questions, but we truly don't wish to give any more money to the Samsung scam artists...Thanx for your help!!

dave123 wrote:

I have replaced some faulty capacitors on my samsung le40r87bdx/xeu tv motherboard, but i still cant get freeview or normal tv stations,and my screen is ghosting.Should i replace the other 2 that didnt look faulty,or could it possibly the mother board that is causing the problem now.Any assistance would be much appreciated.THANKS.

While it may not solve your specific problem, I would personally recommend you replace the other 2 capacitors, as electrolytic capacitors can go bad internally without showing any outward signs, such as leaking or bulging. Would also suggest you double check that the capacitors you replaced were inserted correctly as regards to polarity. (See photo of polarity markings on board below.)

The following is a brief description on the construction of electrolytic capacitors:
Aluminum electrolytic capacitors are constructed from two conducting aluminum foils, one of which is coated with an insulating oxide layer, and a paper spacer soaked in electrolyte. The foil insulated by the oxide layer is the anode while the liquid electrolyte and the second foil act as cathode. This stack is then rolled up, fitted with pin connectors and placed in a cylindrical aluminium casing. (See drawing below).





.

Another source of help for people having problems with their Samsung LCD/Plasma TV's is: http://forums.cnet.com/samsung-forum/?tag=forum-w;xNav

In addition, if your Samsung TV is still in warranty and you are having problems getting Samsung to repair same, suggest you check out the following links where you can file a complaint against Samsung, with the Attorney General of New Jersey, as Samsung Electronics America is headquartered in New Jersey. (You do not have to be a resident of N.J. to file a complaint.)

(1) Check the following link: http://www.nj.gov/oag/newsreleases09/pr20090804c.html
(2) File a formal complaint against Samsung here: http://www.nj.gov/oag/ca/ocp/ocpform2.htm

The State Of New Jersey, Office of Attorney General, has been after Samsung for sometime, because of:
"...the company’s business practices related to repairing home appliances under warranty or service contracts."

.

I purchased a Samsung LN-S4041D LCD TV on 10/04/2006 plus an extended three year warranty through Sears (which expired 10/04/2009). Over the past couple of months the TV has been turning on slower and slower and frequently the sound would occasionally stop working. Approximately two weeks ago the TV stopped turning on. I started researching the issues we were having and discovered this forum which has been extremely helpful.

I took apart the TV and discovered that we too suffered from the bulging and leaking capacitors. So I bought all new capacitors and had a techie friend of mine replace them. Unfortunately this didn't fix the TV. I then purchased a new power supply board. It just arrived today, so we eagerly placed it into the TV, plugged it in and yet again the TV still goes through the clicking cycle but will not turn on. So we resorted to phone calls with Sears as well as Samsung which were very heated but yielded the same results...sorry we can't help you, you have a $1700 piece of junk.

After reading all 9 pages of this forum and links to other forums of the same gripe I feel that it is time to stand up against Samsung. I've contacted a law firm that specializes in Class Action lawsuits to see if there is any hope. I am also placing a complaint with the New Jersey Division of Consumer Affairs. Somebody has to listen if enough of us complain! I will keep the site updated on any response that I get from the lawyers and NJ Consumer Affairs.

Hi,
I have a Samsung 32inch LCD TV (LA32A330J1) , and it shows slightly different symtomes. The red LED on the power switch blinks at about 2 times a second, but there is NO relay clicking sound. The TV does not turn on at all.

Has anyone experienced something similar ? Is this related to the capacitor problems on the power supply or something else ?

I'm hoping that you all can help me with my s4051d.

I did all of the instructions, replacing the capacitors. The first time, I plugged it in and continued to get the multiple clicks every 5-10 seconds and it wouldn't turn on.

I realized that I had left the wire on one of the new capacitors too long and it was shorting out, so I fixed it.

Also during the repair, I potentially pulled up one of the contacts for the board, but I pushed it back down into place, and soldered it together with a scratch off the same run.

When I turned it back on this time, the indicator light performed as it should, but I am still not getting any video. Any Suggestions?

I have an LN-T4661FX/XAA 46" LCD TV that clicks numerous times before powering on. The BN44-00168A IP Board has two bulging 10v 1000uF capacitors at CM812 and CM813. I have experience soldering, but none when it comes to capacitor types. I want to replace all the capacitors here with better quality ones. I need (3) 10v 1000uF and (4) 25v 1000uF capacitors. After reading previous posts, Digi-key is the best place to order them. The site is a bit overwhelming for me. May someone with experience answer the following questions I have:

1) Which is of better quality, Nichicon or United Chemi-Con?
2) Are the following correct and suitable replacements:

10v Nichicon: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=493-1746-ND
25v Nichicon: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=493-1832-ND
10v United: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=565-1755-ND
25v United: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=565-1681-ND

Also, I went to an electronics repair store near my home. They were willing to sell a BN44-00168B IP board for $50. I'd like to have it as a backup. What's the difference between the (A) I have and the (B) he is selling? Is (B) newer? Searching samsungparts.com, it says the (B) is compatible with my TV.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help...

I'd recommend to use caps with higher voltage ratings that you originally have otherwise you will be facing the same problem in 1-2 years again.
Acorrding to the specs, United caps are much better (look for the lowest impedance and highest current ripple). The ones rated for higher voltage and capacity have higher ripple ratings, also thicker ones are better than longer ones. But before choosing different ones you need to check clearance.
I'd rather get one step higher in both voltage and capacity.

zazik wrote:

I'd recommend to use caps with higher voltage ratings that you originally have otherwise you will be facing the same problem in 1-2 years again.
Acorrding to the specs, United caps are much better (look for the lowest impedance and highest current ripple). The ones rated for higher voltage and capacity have higher ripple ratings, also thicker ones are better than longer ones. But before choosing different ones you need to check clearance.
I'd rather get one step higher in both voltage and capacity.

Thanks for the response. Does it matter what voltage I step up to? For instance, can I just replace both the 10v and 25v capacitors with 50v ones? (I saw that on Professor's youtube video, he replaced the 10v's with 50v's.)

Here's the capacitors on the board:


I want to do this quicky, so I went to my local Fry's, where I get a discount. I bought the soldering iron parts, and I had a choice of 16v and 50v capacitors:
http://www.frys.com/search?search_type= ... +mfd&cat=0