Peripherals, accessories, and extras
Matters of religion and taste
Now that we've examined operating system choices in detail, let's have a look at some accessories. We don't have a full set of recommendations at multiple price levels in the categories below, but we can make general observations and point out specific products that are worthy of your consideration. What you ultimately choose in these areas will probably depend heavily on your own personal preferences.
The world of monitors has enough scope and variety that we can't keep track of it all, especially because we don't often review monitors. However, we do appreciate a good display—or two or three of them, since several of us are multi-monitor fanatics—so we can offer a few pieces of advice.
Besides obvious differences in sizes and aspect ratios, LCD monitors have different panel types. Wikipedia has a good run-down of different kinds of LCD panels in this article, but most users will probably care about one major differentiating attribute: whether their display has a 6-bit twisted nematic + film (TN+film) panel or not. The majority of sub-$500 monitors have 6-bit TN panels, which means 18-bit, rather than 24-bit, color definition. Those panels use dithering to simulate colors that are out of their scope, yielding sub-optimal color accuracy, and they often have poor viewing angles on top of that. 8-bit panels typically look better, although they tend to have higher response times and prices.
Don't assume that all IPS panels have eight bits per color channel, either. A new breed of e-IPS displays has emerged with only 6-bit color for each channel. These displays purportedly offer better color reproduction and viewing angles than their TN counterparts, but be aware that you're not getting the full 24-bit experience.
What should you get? We think that largely depends on which of our builds you're going with. For instance, those who purchase the Sweet Spot ought to splurge on a nice 8-bit, 24" display like the HP ZR2440W, Dell UltraSharp U2410, or Asus PA246Q, all of which have IPS panels, reasonable price tags, and a cornucopia of input ports. (The ZR24w is the only one with a normal sRGB color gamut, though.)
We recommend something bigger, like Dell's 27" UltraSharp U2711 or 30" UltraSharp U3011, for use with our opulent workstation or an upgraded Editor's Choice build. Don't be shy about adding more than one screen, either.
By the way, we should point out that the Radeon HD 6000- and 7000-series graphics cards we recommended in this guide support triple-monitor configurations. This scheme, which AMD calls Eyefinity, even works in existing games. You'll need either an adapter or a display with a native DisplayPort input if you want to run three monitors, though. The first two may be connected to a Radeon's DVI or HDMI outputs, but the third needs to be driven by the card's DisplayPort out.
Nvidia has a competing feature similar to Eyefinity, called Surround Gaming, that enables gaming across three monitors, as well. However, that feature requires either a Kepler-based GeForce GTX 600-series graphics card or dual GPUs from previous generations.
Mice and keyboards
New mice seem to crop up every other week, but we tend to favor offerings from Logitech and Microsoft because both companies typically make quality products and offer great warranty coverage. (Nothing beats getting a free, retail-boxed mouse if your old one starts behaving erratically.) Everyone has his preferences when it comes to scroll wheel behavior, the number of buttons present, and control panel software features. But here, too, one particular attribute lies at the heart of many debates: wirelessness.
Wireless mice have come a long way over the past few years, and you can expect a relatively high-end one to feel just as responsive as a wired mouse. However, certain folks—typically hard-core gamers—find all wireless mice laggy, and they don't like the extra weight of the batteries. Tactile preferences are largely subjective, but wireless mice do have a few clear advantages and disadvantages. On the upside, you can use them anywhere on your desk or from a distance, and you don't run the risk of snagging the cable. That said, good wireless mice cost more than their wired cousins, and they force you to keep an eye on battery life. Because of that last issue, some favor wireless mice with docking cradles, which let you charge your mouse at night and not have to worry about finding charged AAs during a Team Fortress 2 match.
We can also find two distinct schools of thoughts on the keyboard front. Some users will prefer the latest and fanciest offerings from Logitech and Microsoft, with their smorgasbords of media keys, sliders, knobs, scroll wheels, and even built-in LCD displays. Others like their keyboards simple, clicky, and heavy enough to beat a man to death with. If you're one of the old-school types, you may want to try a Unicomp keyboard or an original vintage-dated IBM Model M. $50-70 is a lot to put down for a keyboard, but these beasts can easily last a couple of decades.
If you're part of the mechanical keyboard club and are looking for something a little less... well, ugly, then Metadot's Das Keyboard Professional might interest you. The Das Keyboard is pretty pricey (nearly $150), but it has a more stylish look and a softer feel than the Model M and its modern derivatives. Cheaper alternatives to the Das Keyboard can be found among Rosewill's line of mechanical keyboards, which come outfitted with all types and variations of MX Cherry key switches, from the clicky and tactile blue switches to the linear and non-tactile black ones. We also like the combination of mechanical switches, macro keys, and backlighting offered by the Razer BlackWidow Ultimate.
Folks more interested in gaming than typing may also want to look at Corsair's Vengeance K60 and Vengeance K90 keyboards, which feature linear, non-tactile, and non-clicky Cherry Red switches. In layman's terms, the keys are mechanical but don't produce noticeable feedback when actuated (unless they bottom out, that is). This switch design makes a lot of sense for games, since it enables quick, repetitive key-presses. These two keyboards use Cherry Red switches for the alpha keys and standard rubber-dome switches for the F-key row and the paging block. The K90 is backlit, and it features a set of 18 macro keys, to boot. The K60 earned our TR Recommended award when we reviewed it earlier this year.
This section traditionally included a floppy drive/card reader combo, but we're in 2012 now. We've had the Internet, USB thumb drives, and Windows-based BIOS flashing tools for many years. It's time to let go.
If you absolutely must stick something in that external 3.5" drive bay, we suggest this all-in-one card reader. It costs just over $10 yet has good user reviews on Newegg, and it should happily accept any flash card you find lying around.
You might have noticed that all of our recommended processors are retail-boxed variants packaged with stock heatsinks and fans. Retail processors have longer warranties than "tray" or OEM CPUs, and their coolers tend to be at least adequate, with fans that work with motherboard-based temperature control and stay reasonably quiet at idle.
That said, anyone aspiring to overclock or to build a truly quiet PC will likely want to explore aftermarket alternatives. We've singled out three options that ought to suit most needs and budgets: Cooler Master's Hyper 212 Plus, Thermaltake's Frio, and Corsair's H60.
Priced just under $30, the Hyper 212 Plus is a fine no-frills substitute for stock coolers. Its four copper heat pipes, tower-style design, and 120-mm PWM fan should allow for quieter, more effective cooling. Our next step up, the Frio, costs a little under twice as much but provides beefier cooling capabilities that should make it sufficient for air-cooled overclocking setups. Finally, Corsair's H60 is a closed-loop liquid cooler whose radiator mounts over your enclosure's 120-mm exhaust fan. The H60 will set you back about 10 bucks more than the Frio, and we'd recommend it to folks who want a truly quiet PC.
Noctua's NH-U12P SE2 cooler deserves an honorable mention in this section. The original NH-U12P did rather well in our air vs. water CPU cooler showdown a couple of years back. Things have changed somewhat since then, though, and the Noctua cooler no longer costs less than closed-loop liquid-cooling alternatives. In fact, it's about the same price as the H60 right now. The NH-U12P SE2 may be as close to the ultimate air tower as you can get, though.
You know what they say: it's all fun and games until someone's hard drive starts developing bad sectors and kicks the bucket in a dissonant avalanche of clicking and crunching sounds. If you're unsure how to formulate a backup strategy, you can check out our article on the subject, which recommends a fairly straightforward approach. That article deals with Windows Vista's built-in backup software, which isn't bad. Win7's backup tools are even better, though, and Microsoft has included them in the Home Premium edition of the OS.
All you need to get Windows 7 backups going is a decent external hard drive. For that purpose, Thermaltake's BlacX docking station should work well with any of the hard drives we've recommended throughout this guide (perhaps the 2TB EcoGreen F4). This newer USB 3.0 version of the BlacX made a pretty good impression on us, and backing up large files and drive images with it should be a snap.
So, that's our summer system guide. Aside from some price changes, a few clever product substitutions, and our new Next-Gen Console build, very little has changed in the past few months. Things may stay that way for a while yet, too.
We're still awaiting AMD's desktop-bound Trinity APUs, but those are only going to matter at the low end of the market, and there's no telling whether they'll make us rethink our primary picks for the Econobox. Maybe they will, maybe they won't. On the graphics side of things, the only missing piece is Nvidia's mid-range Kepler GPU, which the company has yet to announce or quote a launch time frame for. Everything else is in place already.
The biggest thing on the horizon is probably Windows 8, which should hit stores some time this fall. As we noted on the previous page, the impending arrival of Microsoft's new OS is no call to hold off on an upgrade. You can safely run the Release Preview until Windows 8 hits stores, and it won't cost you a dime.
All in all, then, this seems like a great time to slap together a new gaming rig (or a high-powered workstation for, er, real work). Prices may shift slightly, and new solid-state drives will probably keep appearing at a breakneck pace, but for the time being, it appears that we're all set.
154 comments — Last by Airmantharp at 11:02 AM on 08/14/12
|1. cmpxchg - $500||2. GKey13 - $500||3. punkUser - $302|
|4. Ryszard - $301||5. danny e. - $263||6. End User - $261|
|7. Ryu Connor - $250||8. dashbarron - $222||9. Dodger - $137|
|10. drfish - $121|
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