blog fish fails my new watercooled vive sucks

Fish Fails: my new watercooled Vive sucks

You could call it giving up, but I’m going to call it reaching a conclusion. I know what I would do differently if I were to make a third attempt at a VR face-cooler but I don’t think I have the patience for another go after building my second one. This is the story of where I got with take two, shared in the hopes that someone is inspired to do better. Let’s start with the plan.

I needed to draw this out for myself before I got started. For some reason it was a bit hard to wrap my head around at first. The build is in three layers because I had the “clever” idea of stacking the cooling “tubes” instead of running them side by side. The goal was to present a smooth surface to the face instead of a split one.

I started with a few tests. My primary concern was how to hook up my vinyl air line tubing securely and without leaks. I made a small three-layer bag out of 12-mil polyethylene and used Gorilla Glue to hold the tubing in place. It took a few coats of glue, and 24 hours of waiting, but I ended up with a good proof of concept.

Alexa has great taste in music.

For my second test I switched to the material I wanted to use for the final version, reinforced vinyl. As before, I used various scraps from work, but you could get the same result by harvesting materials from a busted air mattress or even a dollar store beach ball. I welded together a two-layer pillow and left channels opening into the pillow for the tubing. This time I used a vinyl glue to seal the tubes into place. I was pretty proud of my idea to use syringes to draw a vacuum on the pouch and pull the glue deep into the gaps on the side of the tubing where the fabric met. The welds were good, and the glue held back any potential leaks by the tubing. It was time to make the real deal.

I used three different vinyl materials for the final mask. I tested to make sure they welded together first. The bottom layer was the same Velcro-friendly material I used on the original mask. The middle was clear vinyl so I could check alignment of the pieces easier. The top layer was the same as the bottom layer except for being smooth vinyl on both sides. In the photo above you can see my trick for preventing unintentional welding, parchment paper as a layer separator.

Welding the inside was the first step. I used parchment paper folder over the middle layer and worked my way around the outside, reaching into the inside to make the seal. This was pretty fiddly, but it worked. However, it’s when I made a mistake that really took the wind of out my sails. As I was welding, I slipped up and accidentally sealed my water paths all the way across right as I was finishing the inside track. I didn’t have the parchment paper in quite the right spot. That oops meant spending the next hour trying to salvage my work by heating up and delaminating the layers with mixed results. I was able to open it up enough to move forward, though.

Oh yeah, I should probably mention how exactly I’m welding this plastic. It’s a flattening iron wrapped in Teflon tape—a pretty handy trick. I used a potato masher to apply pressure to the top of the iron while welding and it served double duty by also mashing the proto-mask into my work platform, cooling the weld quickly so I could keep working.

Finally, we have the complete picture. At this point I already knew my creation had one too many mistakes to be completely happy with it, but the general plan worked out ok. One of the biggest problems was the unevenness of my welding. The void on the inside is not a consistent size all the way around. I can blame my tools and artistry for that problem. Once I’d hooked up the tubes for a pressure test, though, I found the biggest design flaw.

If you recall back to the original drawing of the design, the middle layer was cut short of the ends so that water could flow around it into the other layers. This worked great in my original test, but the material swap and confines of the mask apparently turned the middle layer into a check valve and essentially no air is able to move between the layers. Bummer. If there was some structure at those points, say some more air line tubing, that wouldn’t be an issue. As things ended up, I think I’ve had my fill of experimenting for now but feel confident this could work with a bit more effort. We’ll see if I want to go another round with it as the summer continues…

0 responses to “Fish Fails: my new watercooled Vive sucks

  1. They did. Never saw a Virtual Boy? I remember going to a Dav ‘N Busters 20 years ago that had a really low polygon VR “game”. Think 1982 Battlezone.

  2. Why not just unstrap the diving mask from the front of your face, sit back, relax, and enjoy the bliss of a nice big 32″ 4K monitor for a change…no ice cubes needed?…;) If VR was something people wanted to see a lot of they’d have been strapping televisions to their heads decades ago…;)

  3. I avoided silicone tubing because it’s such a good insulator and because it cut down my options for welding and gluing. However, the right tube inside of a tube could be worth pursuing. It would be nice to only need to close off the ends. Heck, I might be able to modify an off the shelf face pad.

  4. I think it’s water or bust. Any way you slice it, I’d lose too much performance with air.

  5. I have this concern as well, my hope was that since the flow is so low already the small trickle of water would find a way, especially of the channel was wide enough. For this go at it, I want to avoid adding internal structure, but I have an [url=<]option in mind[/url<] should it prove necessary and I get around to what would probably be version 4.0 at that point. ...hmm... Or maybe 3.0. A thought has occurred...

  6. I may yet experiment with this, but at that point simply using an off the shelf cooling wrap would probably be the best course.

  7. How about cooling the back of your neck instead? That’s the area that seems to affect core body temperature the most and it might be easier to work with.

  8. I do wonder if you won’t still run into issues Fish, with the pressure of the forehead cutting off the flow anyway. All it’ll take is one mild kink.

    I think you’ll need something with some rigidity to it – either a very coarse open-cell material that’ll hold the void space open and which will still allow some flow through it (eg. sea sponge, reticulated filter foam) or maybe a series of silicon tubes cut to length and welded inside your water layer?

    Stick with it mate, enjoying the updates!

  9. Just have it suck the heat from your face and passively radiate it into the headset, and then put a little fan for the interior of the headset?

  10. Already suggested it in the other thread, but people were all, like, “waaah! I don’t wanna strap a bunch of awesome looking heatsinks to my face!”

    You could water-cool the peltier devices I suppose…

  11. Have you considered not water cooling it. If you just pumped air through it might pull away enough heat. A porous foam that’s firm enough that it won’t completely collapse when on your face, an air pump and some holes to let the air out might be enough. You could condition the air by drilling two holes in a small fridge and putting a large coil in there to remove the heat generated by the compressor.

  12. Or, [url=<]silicone tubing[/url<] is very soft and flexible but strong. You can get it in very small diameter.

  13. How about closed cell foam tubing? I’ve seen it advertised for putting on very skinny utensils like dental picks and paint brushes.
    Edit: looks like OD is too large. See next post.

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Colton Westrate

I host BBQs, I tell stories, and I strive to keep folks happy.