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localhostrulez
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Sat Dec 12, 2015 11:11 pm

My car ('05 Civic) is a bit bitchy when starting, mainly when I don't let the fuel pump run first (or the gas tank is low) - I'm at my parents house, but once I get back up there, I need to either diagnose this, or just go for a new fuel pump. Same cost. Honda fuel pumps supposedly rarely fail, but they do cause these symptoms.

Plus, the drivers' side door key lock (cylinder?) is starting to go, as of recently - it either won't let me insert the key, or grabs onto it and refuses to let me pull it out. That's really going to tear up the key if I don't get it fixed soon. Sounds like WD40 might actually fix this one. That, and some new lock actuators so I can use the keyless and bypass the whole issue.

First owner drove it ~15K/yr for a few years but maintained it regularly, then some stuff (clutch, battery) was replaced by the dealer (likely preemptively) when it was sold, and then the next guy might've had a big gap in maintenance (although ~4-5K/yr), per the carfax (though this doesn't necessarily have everything), until the car finally overheated, they sold it, and this was all fixed. Can't help but wonder if some of these random things were related to that guy.
 
Kougar
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Sun Dec 13, 2015 8:34 am

localhostrulez wrote:
Plus, the drivers' side door key lock (cylinder?) is starting to go, as of recently - it either won't let me insert the key, or grabs onto it and refuses to let me pull it out. That's really going to tear up the key if I don't get it fixed soon. Sounds like WD40 might actually fix this one. That, and some new lock actuators so I can use the keyless and bypass the whole issue.


Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but everything I've read says to avoid using WD40 on cylinder locks as it will break down and collect dirt and dust and gum it up later. Graphite-based lubricant is supposedly best for those.
 
just brew it!
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Sun Dec 13, 2015 2:42 pm

Today I am repairing my liver by giving it a day off. (Yesterday was the homebrew club holiday party.)
Nostalgia isn't what it used to be.
 
ludi
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Sun Dec 13, 2015 3:46 pm

Kougar wrote:
Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but everything I've read says to avoid using WD40 on cylinder locks as it will break down and collect dirt and dust and gum it up later. Graphite-based lubricant is supposedly best for those.

Any port in a storm, especially if some water got in there and is contributing to the problem (note the current rainfall totals in the Pacific NW this winter). But yeah, long term the recommended cleaning for a fouled lock cylinder is to start with butane or something that will clean but evaporate with little residue, then graphite powder.
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llisandro
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Sun Dec 13, 2015 4:11 pm

I successfully replaced the mic/lightning connector module on my wife's iPhone 5s! $15 part from iFixit. Her mic had basically died- would go in and out, and when it was working it was really quiet, and she was forced to use a headset to make calls. Got a little dicey, as there wasn't a guide posted online for this particular part, but an existing guide to replace the battery got me close enough, and it just required a little patience.

I sprung for the $45 screwdriver set from ifixit and was pretty pissed to discover that their 000 phillips driver was nowhere near as small as one screw labeled in the guide as 000, which was basically the last screw I needed to remove! I'm tempted to believe the screw was mislabeled as it's pretty much the smallest phillips screw I've ever seen. Luckily I found that I DID have an 00 from an old set of dollar-store "precision" drivers that was even smaller than ifixit's 000- the bit was soft as hell and I damn near stripped it, but luckily the screw itself was of high quality and didn't strip, even though the bit I was using was a bit too large. So, not a good idea, but it worked out! New piece worked like a charm, and now I've got all the tools I need for future repairs! 8)

I also realized that I need a good magnifying lamp!
 
Mr Bill
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Tue Dec 15, 2015 9:45 pm

This Nanch Precision Tools Set is not bad and the driver feels very nice if you make sure you get the newer model with the magnetic bits.
we have upgrade our screwdriver handle,the new arrival is display on sell now,you may got the new handle or the old kind ,but all of them are good. the new handle with magnetic button inside,and with two kind length by the telescopic rod inside; the old kind with three kind length;
The 2201A precision screwdriver set fully made by metal,you will find its more than a tools but important part in your DIY life;
This set is intended design for mobile devices(iphone/ipad/Samsung/HTC and other),electronics,tablets,PC,watches,glasses and game consoles and controllers .

Driver:the driver can be different length by the telescopic rod inside;
Bits:1/4 inch standard,4mm shank and 45mm length;
Bits size:
Philips:PH000,PH00,PH0,PH1,PH2;
Slotted:SL1.5,SL2.0,SL3.0,SL4.0;
Torx:T4,T5,T6;
T8,T10,T15(with tamper hole inside);
Pentagonal:0.8,1.2;
Tri-wing:2.5;
Triangle 3.0;
SP 2.0;
Hex:H1.5,H2.0
Last edited by Mr Bill on Tue Dec 15, 2015 9:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Mr Bill
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Tue Dec 15, 2015 9:52 pm

CthulhuBill wrote:
I had an interesting set of challenges at a job that just finished this last week.
----
So at the end of the four days with 4 flawless (Sound) performances, they closed happily. Never even suspecting that the plan they had handed over (effectively, "No sound plan at all") went to fully working system with scant resources was a matter of luck, ego manipulation, decent mic selection, and hours of ringing feedback out of floor mounted mics, one painful dB of headroom at a time.
I particularly like the ego manipulation bit. I sing in a church choir and we have a few prickly people.
X6 1100T BE | Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 AM3+ | XFX HD 7870 | 16 GB DDR3 | Samsung 830/850 Pro SSD's | Logitech cherry MX-brown G710+ | Logitech G303 Daedalus Apex mouse | SeaSonic SS-660XP 80+ Pt | BenQ 24' 1900x1200 IPS | APC Back-UPS NS-1350 | WinXP64 Pro
 
ludi
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Wed Dec 16, 2015 2:34 am

Stripped and re-caulked the base of a 2yo toilet stool last night, seeing as the installer's original caulking job was starting to crack out and collect pee residue. Just a reminder, kids: never EVER use acrylic caulk for any location that may see water. Use silicone, and use the expensive GE-branded stuff along with a silicone edging tool, or you will hate your life in due time...
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llisandro
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Wed Dec 16, 2015 7:21 pm

This Nanch Precision Tools Set is not bad and the driver feels very nice if you make sure you get the newer model with the magnetic bits.


thanks Mr. Bill, I'll check 'em out!
 
canoli
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Wed Dec 16, 2015 7:37 pm

Fixed - well, rigged I should say - one of my guitar stands. Stupid Hercules, supposedly the best, has been a POS from day one. The foam rubber they use became disgustingly sticky after a week. It was never in extreme temp situations - I musta got a lemon, no way they use this crap on all of them. Anyway the spring mechanism that holds the back support quit working - it was always flaky anyway - so I threw it away, stuck a 1/4-20 bolt in it and now it holds together just fine. I'll never buy a Hercules stand again - overpriced crap imho.
 
ozzuneoj
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Wed Dec 16, 2015 8:57 pm

Not today, but yesterday I fixed an IBM PC 5150 motherboard in what was both one of my worst blunders and best successes in soldering... ever.

I got the PC with its original CGA monitor for $75 from someone about an hour away, and I intended to use it to test some other hardware from that era that I'd picked up to resell. It was a really good deal, even though I figured I'd need to fix something.

The monitor works beautifully, and the PC turned on without a hitch... well, aside from the hard drive squeaking like wet brake pads when it starts and stops, but that's not important. When going through POST the system would stop at a memory error, which when I looked it up online indicated a failure of the parity chip in memory bank 0. Now, keep in mind this is from the era of DIP socket memory, not sticks. The problem is, only banks 1, 2 and 3 are socketed, bank 0 is soldered to the board (so there's always a minimum of 64K... :o ). This meant taking a soldering iron to a vintage board (of which there are usually zero on eBay since they basically remained in their PCs, which sell for $200+ in working order) based upon Google search results alone.

Now, I don't solder that much. In fact, I find it really frustrating most of the time because things just don't seem to work the way I want them to. Whether my iron just wont accept solder or the solder on a board just WILL NOT MELT... one thing or another usually happens to make it frustrating. In the case of desoldering through-hole components, my problem is always getting the solder OUT of the holes.

Long story short, I fought with one of those irritating desoldering pumps that I've had for years while using a brand new (but cheap) 30W iron... since my old reliable 10 year old Radio Shack butane iron started smoking from the handle and I no longer felt safe using it. The old board couldn't handle my countless attempts and prodding, and the solder pads ended up getting mangled on the underside of the board on three of the 16 pins on the memory chip. I ended up buying one of the nifty (and cheap) desoldering irons from Radio Shack that have the solder-sucking bulb attached to the end so that you can just heat the part and suck it up immediately. While the damaged solder pads were beyond repair, this new tool allowed me to clear the remaining holes perfectly and I thought "hey, its loose! What's the worst that could happen if I just yank this off of here now?".

I pulled the chip off with ease... along with the innards of the three "stuck" holes and the copper traces from the surface of the board. YOUCH... that was sad to look at, let me tell you.

But, I was honestly just relieved to have finally gotten the stupid bad chip off the board. After a few minutes of sulking and calling myself stupid (a normal part of my soldering endeavors), looked at the board and thought "hey, they're just tiny flat wires and I can see where they went..." so I put the new memory chip on the board, soldered it (with ease), and then used tiny wires to connect the pins that should have been connected with traces.

To my complete and utter astonishment, it actually worked! The system booted up just fine and passed its memory test without so much as a single memory error, and I rebooted 15 times without any problems!

Now I just need to fix the keyboard I just happened to have that will work with this... and I'll be able to start using this thing to test some really old hardware. What fun! :lol:
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DrDominodog51
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Wed Dec 16, 2015 9:06 pm

That's quite the adventure ozzuneoj. How are you going to test hardware with the IBM? Is there some software you have?
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GeForce6200
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Wed Dec 16, 2015 9:13 pm

Replaced the subframe and rear trailing arm bushings in my E36 compact with Ireland Engineering urethane ones. Complete pita. Not difficult just very labor intensive. Have to drop the entire back end of the car. Without a bushing press the old ones were sawzall and c clamped out. The urethane ones just press in and are greased, will last longer than the car. Took 12+hours total and the swear jar was full. Noise is increased from a solid bushing with vastly better control of rear, albeit a bit twitchier. Wouldn't recommend an entire car be replaced with urethane bushings in a DD. Next is larger brakes and tweak suspension then motor swap.
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Chuckaluphagus
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Wed Dec 16, 2015 10:06 pm

ozzuneoj wrote:
Not today, but yesterday I fixed an IBM PC 5150 motherboard in what was both one of my worst blunders and best successes in soldering... ever.


Read through that and cringed a few times :) First, for really old solder joins like that you should get some flux. The metal is very old and likely oxidized, and flux will help clean off that stuff and let heat get to the metal. Second, it sounds like your existing soldering iron is not getting hot enough, or rather not getting heat to where it should be going - instead of melting the solder properly, you delaminated the board traces. An inexpensive Weller will work a lot better, or even just a basic $10 job from Sparkfun.

Third, you succeeded! Awesome, and now you also know how to fix busted traces.
 
ozzuneoj
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Wed Dec 16, 2015 10:23 pm

DrDominodog51 wrote:
That's quite the adventure ozzuneoj. How are you going to test hardware with the IBM? Is there some software you have?

I have a box of old 5 1/4 MFM hard drives, among other things. They're worth a bit "as is" but worth a lot more tested and working. Getting Speedstor onto a disk to format and test the drives will be interesting... but all that requires that the system be fully functioning first (I need a keyboard for that).

I think I can temporarily hook the 5 1/4 floppy drive from the IBM to another newer system I have that also has USB support and I should be able to transfer Speedstor to that PC with a flash drive, then copy it to a 5 1/4 floppy, hook that drive back up to the IBM and use the same disk to test the drives.

Ideally I would have something newer, like a 386, to be able to test all the hardware I have, but this is much more likely to work than what I had previously. I got pretty far using an ISA MFM controller in a Pentium MMX board, but it simply won't read the drives due to the system being probably 11 years newer than the controller card.

Chuckaluphagus wrote:
ozzuneoj wrote:
Not today, but yesterday I fixed an IBM PC 5150 motherboard in what was both one of my worst blunders and best successes in soldering... ever.


Read through that and cringed a few times :) First, for really old solder joins like that you should get some flux. The metal is very old and likely oxidized, and flux will help clean off that stuff and let heat get to the metal. Second, it sounds like your existing soldering iron is not getting hot enough, or rather not getting heat to where it should be going - instead of melting the solder properly, you delaminated the board traces. An inexpensive Weller will work a lot better, or even just a basic $10 job from Sparkfun.

Third, you succeeded! Awesome, and now you also know how to fix busted traces.


I was using flux, and it did help. I have a flux pen and I use constantly while soldering. My cheap iron actually worked better than I thought it would. It is a 30W, very similar to what you linked to (I picked it up for $5 at walmart). I do have a large vintage Weller D440, but with the large chisel tips I have for it (also vintage, since newer ones can overheat the old guns) and the fact that the wattage is extremely high, I don't use it on anything I really don't want to ruin. I didn't have any problems getting the solder to melt with this board at all. In fact, newer boards are far worse since they use lower lead content or lead free solder. As I said, I just have (had?) crap tools for solder removal, especially from within holes. I've come to find out that my desoldering wick is junk because it doesn't even have flux in it already (it doesn't sizzle)... which would explain why it doesn't "wick" anything (like my previous one did), and just helps me to put burn marks on things. It works better after going over it with my flux pen, but its still not as helpful as I'd like. I also learned that my desoldering pump is just too difficult for me to use without damaging things with constant poking and reheating. I would attempt to suck the solder out of a hole probably a dozen times before it'd work.

After moving to the new desoldering iron with the integrated nozzle and bulb it worked much better. If I'd had that from the start I wouldn't have crushed the solder pads or had to heat things up a bazillion times and none of this would have happened.

Several lessons learned with this project so far.

If I could find one that was both good and not $150-$300, I would have bought a desoldering gun with an integrated vacuum by now, but I'm not liking what I read about most of them and the last thing I need when soldering is another possible point of failure (solder clogging the nozzle and making it useless) with an expensive device.

I really wish I could solder like the guys who make you tube videos of them precisely desoldering and soldering new components without leaving a single trace of hand-soldering to speak of... but I have no idea how they do it. :lol:

EDIT: One thing though. Is there something I can do to make my iron stop oxidizing? This seems to be the bane of my existence and leads to much frustration. Even when the iron is hot enough, many times they simply will not tin. When applied directly to the iron solder just balls up at the end of the wire (of solder) rather than sticking to the iron. I have this happen with my Weller, my butane iron and after a short while my walmart special started doing it too. I have one of the brass wool pads to clean the tip, but after I use the iron for a while no amount of scuffling around in the brass pad will make the tip shine... it basically does nothing. I've resorted to using 1000 grit sand paper to clean the tip of my iron before and that worked but it oxidizes again before long. What am I doing wrong and why does no one mention this in all of the millions of soldering guides and how-to videos on youtube? I've been soldering a thing or two here and there for about 13 years, but I can't seem to put all the pieces together to have consistency.
Desktop - i5 2500K@4.2Ghz - MSI P67A-G43 - 16GB DDR3-2133 - PNY GTX 970
HTPC - i7 4790 - Asus B85 - 16GB DDR3-1600 - XFX RX 570 8GB
Selling lots of cool PC stuff on Mercari. Use code VBGQMM for a $10 sign up credit!
 
just brew it!
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Thu Dec 17, 2015 12:53 am

Drag the tip of the iron (while it is at temp) across a damp sponge. The thermal shock will help dislodge the oxidation.
Nostalgia isn't what it used to be.
 
Dagwood
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Thu Dec 17, 2015 1:42 am

Soldering iron tips should only be cleaned with a damp sponge, a wet paper towel can work in a pinch, by using abrasives you have more than likely taken the nickle plating off. A temperature controlled tip is also better than an always on iron. You can use a cheep soldering iron with a messed up tip, but you will have to keep tinning the tip and cleaning it with a sponge. This is what I do. Let the Iron come up to temperature the tip will look dull if the plating is damaged. With flux core solder, tin the tip and immediately clean it with the sponge. It should look bright and shiny. The the iron will be good for one or two connections then you will need to tin and clean the tip again.

Soldering is much easier with a good temperature controlled iron with a brand new tip. Remember that the solder should melt by touching the surfaces of the parts not the soldering iron, and the whole process should not take more that a few seconds. If you mess up let the whole part cool before trying again. Too much heat will burn parts.
 
Dagwood
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Thu Dec 17, 2015 2:07 am

Fixed the kitchen silverware drawer. The drawer is overloaded and it broke the plastic mounting brackets for the slide-rails. I had to replace them with more plastic parts. I will keep my eyes open for something stronger.

.
 
Milo Burke
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Thu Dec 17, 2015 2:12 am

I fixed my Pass F5 DIY amplifier this week with the help of a friend. It was sounding great, but overheating to dangerous levels. Too much class A for the heatsinks, apparently.

We put in a smaller transformer and now it's running nice and cool. Further testing remains to determine if it's now running too cool. But I'm happy that I can now view it as a functioning piece of equipment instead of an expensive waste of time. :)
 
DrJ
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Thu Dec 17, 2015 6:04 am

OK, I'll play.

Recently I have fixed my orbital shaker, my high-speed centrifuge and my ultrapure water supply. The belt on the orbital shaker had stretched, and the shaker no longer rotated. It was an odd size, but an O ring from the hardware store worked just fine as a replacement. The centrifuge just stopped working, and it turned out that the lid latch mechanism had failed. A refurbished part cured that. It was an inexpensive switch that failed, but it was buried inside of an integrated part and could not be replaced by itself. The water supply needed a custom gasket to improve its seal in the reverse osmosis stage -- fortunately a friend is in the business of making custom gaskets, so he supplied on in a couple of days and it now is fine.

One task for today is to replace the battery in a UPS that has failed.
 
mnecaise
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Thu Dec 17, 2015 8:12 am

ozzuneoj wrote:
EDIT: One thing though. Is there something I can do to make my iron stop oxidizing? This seems to be the bane of my existence and leads to much frustration. Even when the iron is hot enough, many times they simply will not tin. When applied directly to the iron solder just balls up at the end of the wire (of solder) rather than sticking to the iron. I have this happen with my Weller, my butane iron and after a short while my walmart special started doing it too. I have one of the brass wool pads to clean the tip, but after I use the iron for a while no amount of scuffling around in the brass pad will make the tip shine... it basically does nothing. I've resorted to using 1000 grit sand paper to clean the tip of my iron before and that worked but it oxidizes again before long. What am I doing wrong and why does no one mention this in all of the millions of soldering guides and how-to videos on youtube? I've been soldering a thing or two here and there for about 13 years, but I can't seem to put all the pieces together to have consistency.


I use a brass wool pad instead of the wet sponge. It's just my preference -- I personally get better results that way. Professional soldering stations have an "idle" temperature; when they're not in use they switch to a lower temp that doesn't cause tip oxidation (or does it very slowly). My station at work is set to drop to just under 300 degF after a couple of minutes of inactivity. At home I do not have a multi-hundred dollar programmable, thermostatically controlled soldering station like at work; so, I just unplug the iron unless I'm actively using it, right now. Also, at home I keep several irons: one 40W iron with a larger chisel tip, and a 25W iron with either a small conical tip or a 1/32" chisel tip. I switch back and forth as the application requires. Another suggestion: Keep solder on the tip, I'll wet it with solder before setting down the iron. Don't wipe it off and put it in the holder, that will speed up oxidation. Wipe it off when you pick it up, right before use.

I'd be suspect of the Wal-mart soldering iron's tip quality. The plating quality can make a big difference in how well solder wets to the tip, how well it transfers heat to the work, and how fast the tip oxidizes. Weller tends to be good (that's what I use at work and home) but I don't use the cheapest one of those either -- my smaller one is a WP25.

Last point -- they don't mention it in the guides because it's just one of those things you have to deal with... I buy tips 5 or 10 at a time and keep spares sitting in a drawer at my workbench; and, I keep tip tinner -- it's basically a small container of flux and powdered solder that, when things do get a little oxidized, you dip the tip into.

Your solder extractor -- sounds like it needs cleaning. You should be able to twist off the plunger end... clean the solder residue out of the tube. The plunger should have an o-ring, clean that. Then lightly oil it before re-assembly. it should work better after that.
 
localhostrulez
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Mon Dec 21, 2015 1:48 am

Well, it looks like my laptop decided to add itself to the pile of stuff needing repairs. More specifically, the Toshiba Q-series ssd in there suddenly started getting flakey - absurd queue lengths, and lots of Windows hanging and then recovering. Or going wacky (ex. Explorer.exe died), and then recovering. Hmm, maybe several of the issues (which I was blaming on HP and the AMD hybrid graphics implementation) were the SSD all along. Welp, time to RMA this, sell it, and buy another Sandisk (their SSDs have been rock solid for me, others, not so much).

Now if only it hadn't picked tonight as the time to strike, considering I'm heading on a plane to Asia tomorrow. And I'm at my parents' house, so I don't have any spare machines setup to use.
 
SuperSpy
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Mon Dec 21, 2015 3:39 pm

Another instance of my bad project luck.

I finally finished my son's room renovation, and was putting things back into order in the room when I noticed one of the closet doors (that hang from a track on little wheels) had broken one of it's wheels. I went off and got two new sets of wheels for (one for each door) and got them replaced, only to find out the new wheels hang the doors slightly closer to each other.

"No big deal, I'll just unhook the track and separate them an extra 1/8 inch" "..." "Crap it's all one part"

Now I have to decide if I want to try and find a new track to run them on or if I take my chances with the dremel cutting it lengthwise in half.
Desktop: i7-4790K @4.8 GHz | 32 GB | EVGA Gefore 1060 | Windows 10 x64
Laptop: MacBook Pro 2017 2.9GHz | 16 GB | Radeon Pro 560
 
The Egg
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Mon Dec 21, 2015 3:58 pm

Is there a sliding adjustment on the wheel mounting hardware so they can be placed further forward on the rear door?
 
Mr Bill
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Tue Dec 22, 2015 10:05 pm

Spent the $960 for a RESTEK leak detector and had a happy day finding all the leaks that have plagued my Tekmar 3000 Purge and Trap and also checking my replumbing of a 6890 GC-FID inlet as I try to bring this "free" 6890 GC into service ($400 for inlet trap, $1200 to rebuild the EPC, and another $4000 for FID detector and gas controls). You don't have to save X-cylinders of UHP gas per year to pay it back... Its not just about reducing losses. Its about having your GC flows all working like they should because the leaks are gone.
X6 1100T BE | Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 AM3+ | XFX HD 7870 | 16 GB DDR3 | Samsung 830/850 Pro SSD's | Logitech cherry MX-brown G710+ | Logitech G303 Daedalus Apex mouse | SeaSonic SS-660XP 80+ Pt | BenQ 24' 1900x1200 IPS | APC Back-UPS NS-1350 | WinXP64 Pro
 
Mr Bill
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Tue Dec 22, 2015 10:09 pm

Kougar wrote:
localhostrulez wrote:
Plus, the drivers' side door key lock (cylinder?) is starting to go, as of recently - it either won't let me insert the key, or grabs onto it and refuses to let me pull it out. That's really going to tear up the key if I don't get it fixed soon. Sounds like WD40 might actually fix this one. That, and some new lock actuators so I can use the keyless and bypass the whole issue.


Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but everything I've read says to avoid using WD40 on cylinder locks as it will break down and collect dirt and dust and gum it up later. Graphite-based lubricant is supposedly best for those.
It will collect dirt. I use a very small amount to clean the rails of my autosampler and every couple months I have to wipe off the accumulated grime so the autosampler does not jam. That teflon flow stuff for bike chains also works but also accumulates dirt. I would go with the graphite were I you.
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Mr Bill
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Tue Dec 22, 2015 10:12 pm

DrJ wrote:
OK, I'll play.

Recently I have fixed my orbital shaker, my high-speed centrifuge and my ultrapure water supply. The belt on the orbital shaker had stretched, and the shaker no longer rotated. It was an odd size, but an O ring from the hardware store worked just fine as a replacement. The centrifuge just stopped working, and it turned out that the lid latch mechanism had failed. A refurbished part cured that. It was an inexpensive switch that failed, but it was buried inside of an integrated part and could not be replaced by itself. The water supply needed a custom gasket to improve its seal in the reverse osmosis stage -- fortunately a friend is in the business of making custom gaskets, so he supplied on in a couple of days and it now is fine.

One task for today is to replace the battery in a UPS that has failed.

This is the time of year to be watching Sams Club prices on UPS's. I picked up several APC Back UPS NS1350 for $99 each last year (normally $139-159). Nice backup for the workstations at your instruments.
X6 1100T BE | Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 AM3+ | XFX HD 7870 | 16 GB DDR3 | Samsung 830/850 Pro SSD's | Logitech cherry MX-brown G710+ | Logitech G303 Daedalus Apex mouse | SeaSonic SS-660XP 80+ Pt | BenQ 24' 1900x1200 IPS | APC Back-UPS NS-1350 | WinXP64 Pro
 
Mr Bill
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Tue Dec 22, 2015 10:14 pm

GeForce6200 wrote:
Replaced the subframe and rear trailing arm bushings in my E36 compact with Ireland Engineering urethane ones. Complete pita. Not difficult just very labor intensive. Have to drop the entire back end of the car. Without a bushing press the old ones were sawzall and c clamped out. The urethane ones just press in and are greased, will last longer than the car. Took 12+hours total and the swear jar was full. Noise is increased from a solid bushing with vastly better control of rear, albeit a bit twitchier. Wouldn't recommend an entire car be replaced with urethane bushings in a DD. Next is larger brakes and tweak suspension then motor swap.

After my third or 4th front motor mount replacement on my 96 Neon Sport Coupe, I went with solid urethane inserts for the new one. It vibrates a bit more but no more of that darned bedspring squeeky squeeky every time I go over a bump.
X6 1100T BE | Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 AM3+ | XFX HD 7870 | 16 GB DDR3 | Samsung 830/850 Pro SSD's | Logitech cherry MX-brown G710+ | Logitech G303 Daedalus Apex mouse | SeaSonic SS-660XP 80+ Pt | BenQ 24' 1900x1200 IPS | APC Back-UPS NS-1350 | WinXP64 Pro
 
Mr Bill
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Tue Dec 22, 2015 10:18 pm

Gonna check the plugs on my Chevy Cobalt SS Supercharged to see if I can figure out why the engine surges in second gear with moderate throttle applied. 41K miles, they say the plugs are good for 100K. But meh. I had no idea, till now, that the newer cars had transformers on the spark plugs instead of using wires. Looking around for a useful shop manual for this car this week.
X6 1100T BE | Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 AM3+ | XFX HD 7870 | 16 GB DDR3 | Samsung 830/850 Pro SSD's | Logitech cherry MX-brown G710+ | Logitech G303 Daedalus Apex mouse | SeaSonic SS-660XP 80+ Pt | BenQ 24' 1900x1200 IPS | APC Back-UPS NS-1350 | WinXP64 Pro
 
SuperSpy
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Re: Anyone repair anything today?

Wed Dec 23, 2015 11:23 am

The Egg wrote:
Is there a sliding adjustment on the wheel mounting hardware so they can be placed further forward on the rear door?

I think they're one-piece stamped steel, but good point, I'll check tonight.
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