TR Forums

SuperSpy · Mon Sep 21, 2015 10:17 am

I was sick as a dog this weekend, so I didn't accomplish anything major.

The only thing I can remember fixing through the Nyquil haze is the dimmer to my desk lamp. About a year ago, I spliced in an LED-rated dimmer switch to a cheap architect's lamp, and put in a nice bright 1600 lumen Cree in it, and it was amazing. Until about 3 months ago the light started flickering (sometimes to full brightness, sometimes to off) when it was dimmed. Generally I could fix it by adjusting the dimmer away from it's current position, then adjusting it back. Until a few days ago, when it went from dim to full brightness for a second or so then stopped working entirely.

I went back in, and ironically found what I wished I had found a year ago: an in-line dimmer (like this). Unfortunately I had already sacrificed the lamp's plug, so I had to also pick up a replacement 2-prong plug.

But my lamp is back to normal so I can go back to my cave dwelling in the darkness.

Convert · Sat Sep 26, 2015 10:21 am

One of these: http://www.simplehuman.com/sensor-pump- ... te-8-fl-oz

It stopped dispensing, was just a clogged output tube after I got it apart. However, when I bought it I noticed the claim about being gear driven (how I interpreted it). When I got it apart it's not gear driven at all, they use a small rubber band similar to one on a CDROM. Reading the material again it says it has a "gear design", which means somewhere in the dispensing mechanism it has some gears.. Kinda lame marketing as I see this band breaking eventually.

Sat Sep 26, 2015 12:03 pm

I'm repairing the RAID array in my home desktop. One of the drives (a Seagate 7200.12, go figure) has been reporting SMART errors and reallocated sectors for the past couple of weeks. The replacement drive is currently sitting in an external drive dock, and the array is syncing to it. When it finishes I'll pop the system open and swap the drive in.

The replacement drive is bigger than the failing one (2TB instead of 1TB), since I didn't have any spare 1TB drives sitting around. I guess after I finish this swap maybe I'll replace the remaining 1TB drive as well, and grow the array.

smartctl 5.41 2011-06-09 r3365 [x86_64-linux-3.13.0-63-generic] (local build)
Copyright (C) 2002-11 by Bruce Allen, http://smartmontools.sourceforge.net

=== START OF INFORMATION SECTION ===
Model Family:     Seagate Barracuda 7200.12
Device Model:     ST31000528AS
Serial Number:    6VPGDPPB
LU WWN Device Id: 5 000c50 04597d729
Firmware Version: CC3E
User Capacity:    1,000,204,886,016 bytes [1.00 TB]
Sector Size:      512 bytes logical/physical
Device is:        In smartctl database [for details use: -P show]
ATA Version is:   8
ATA Standard is:  ATA-8-ACS revision 4
Local Time is:    Sat Sep 26 11:58:16 2015 CDT
SMART support is: Available - device has SMART capability.
SMART support is: Enabled

=== START OF READ SMART DATA SECTION ===
SMART overall-health self-assessment test result: FAILED!
Drive failure expected in less than 24 hours. SAVE ALL DATA.
See vendor-specific Attribute list for failed Attributes.

General SMART Values:
Offline data collection status:  (0x82)   Offline data collection activity
               was completed without error.
               Auto Offline Data Collection: Enabled.
Self-test execution status:      (   0)   The previous self-test routine completed
               without error or no self-test has ever 
               been run.
Total time to complete Offline 
data collection:       (  600) seconds.
Offline data collection
capabilities:           (0x7b) SMART execute Offline immediate.
               Auto Offline data collection on/off support.
               Suspend Offline collection upon new
               command.
               Offline surface scan supported.
               Self-test supported.
               Conveyance Self-test supported.
               Selective Self-test supported.
SMART capabilities:            (0x0003)   Saves SMART data before entering
               power-saving mode.
               Supports SMART auto save timer.
Error logging capability:        (0x01)   Error logging supported.
               General Purpose Logging supported.
Short self-test routine 
recommended polling time:     (   1) minutes.
Extended self-test routine
recommended polling time:     ( 171) minutes.
Conveyance self-test routine
recommended polling time:     (   2) minutes.
SCT capabilities:           (0x103f)   SCT Status supported.
               SCT Error Recovery Control supported.
               SCT Feature Control supported.
               SCT Data Table supported.

SMART Attributes Data Structure revision number: 10
Vendor Specific SMART Attributes with Thresholds:
ID# ATTRIBUTE_NAME          FLAG     VALUE WORST THRESH TYPE      UPDATED  WHEN_FAILED RAW_VALUE
  1 Raw_Read_Error_Rate     0x000f   110   099   006    Pre-fail  Always       -       27889186
  3 Spin_Up_Time            0x0003   095   094   000    Pre-fail  Always       -       0
  4 Start_Stop_Count        0x0032   100   100   020    Old_age   Always       -       86
  5 Reallocated_Sector_Ct   0x0033   031   031   036    Pre-fail  Always   FAILING_NOW 2830
  7 Seek_Error_Rate         0x000f   084   060   030    Pre-fail  Always       -       236469356
  9 Power_On_Hours          0x0032   073   073   000    Old_age   Always       -       24370
 10 Spin_Retry_Count        0x0013   100   100   097    Pre-fail  Always       -       0
 12 Power_Cycle_Count       0x0032   100   100   020    Old_age   Always       -       43
183 Runtime_Bad_Block       0x0032   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       0
184 End-to-End_Error        0x0032   100   100   099    Old_age   Always       -       0
187 Reported_Uncorrect      0x0032   091   091   000    Old_age   Always       -       9
188 Command_Timeout         0x0032   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       0
189 High_Fly_Writes         0x003a   097   097   000    Old_age   Always       -       3
190 Airflow_Temperature_Cel 0x0022   061   054   045    Old_age   Always       -       39 (Min/Max 33/40)
194 Temperature_Celsius     0x0022   039   046   000    Old_age   Always       -       39 (0 17 0 0)
195 Hardware_ECC_Recovered  0x001a   049   019   000    Old_age   Always       -       27889186
197 Current_Pending_Sector  0x0012   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       0
198 Offline_Uncorrectable   0x0010   100   100   000    Old_age   Offline      -       0
199 UDMA_CRC_Error_Count    0x003e   200   200   000    Old_age   Always       -       0
240 Head_Flying_Hours       0x0000   100   253   000    Old_age   Offline      -       232426450214810
241 Total_LBAs_Written      0x0000   100   253   000    Old_age   Offline      -       3558785684
242 Total_LBAs_Read         0x0000   100   253   000    Old_age   Offline      -       1649972528

SMART Error Log Version: 1
ATA Error Count: 8 (device log contains only the most recent five errors)
   CR = Command Register [HEX]
   FR = Features Register [HEX]
   SC = Sector Count Register [HEX]
   SN = Sector Number Register [HEX]
   CL = Cylinder Low Register [HEX]
   CH = Cylinder High Register [HEX]
   DH = Device/Head Register [HEX]
   DC = Device Command Register [HEX]
   ER = Error register [HEX]
   ST = Status register [HEX]
Powered_Up_Time is measured from power on, and printed as
DDd+hh:mm:SS.sss where DD=days, hh=hours, mm=minutes,
SS=sec, and sss=millisec. It "wraps" after 49.710 days.

Error 8 occurred at disk power-on lifetime: 21697 hours (904 days + 1 hours)
  When the command that caused the error occurred, the device was active or idle.

  After command completion occurred, registers were:
  ER ST SC SN CL CH DH
  -- -- -- -- -- -- --
  40 51 00 ff ff ff 0f  Error: UNC at LBA = 0x0fffffff = 268435455

  Commands leading to the command that caused the error were:
  CR FR SC SN CL CH DH DC   Powered_Up_Time  Command/Feature_Name
  -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --  ----------------  --------------------
  25 00 00 ff ff ff ef 00  11d+05:15:52.066  READ DMA EXT
  25 00 80 ff ff ff ef 00  11d+05:15:52.064  READ DMA EXT
  25 00 80 ff ff ff ef 00  11d+05:15:52.064  READ DMA EXT
  25 00 80 ff ff ff ef 00  11d+05:15:52.064  READ DMA EXT
  25 00 80 ff ff ff ef 00  11d+05:15:52.063  READ DMA EXT

Error 7 occurred at disk power-on lifetime: 21696 hours (904 days + 0 hours)
  When the command that caused the error occurred, the device was in an unknown state.

  After command completion occurred, registers were:
  ER ST SC SN CL CH DH
  -- -- -- -- -- -- --
  40 51 00 ff ff ff 0f  Error: UNC at LBA = 0x0fffffff = 268435455

  Commands leading to the command that caused the error were:
  CR FR SC SN CL CH DH DC   Powered_Up_Time  Command/Feature_Name
  -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --  ----------------  --------------------
  25 00 00 ff ff ff ef 00  11d+04:49:44.859  READ DMA EXT
  25 00 80 ff ff ff ef 00  11d+04:49:44.858  READ DMA EXT
  25 00 80 ff ff ff ef 00  11d+04:49:44.858  READ DMA EXT
  25 00 80 ff ff ff ef 00  11d+04:49:44.129  READ DMA EXT
  25 00 00 ff ff ff ef 00  11d+04:49:44.123  READ DMA EXT

Error 6 occurred at disk power-on lifetime: 21198 hours (883 days + 6 hours)
  When the command that caused the error occurred, the device was active or idle.

  After command completion occurred, registers were:
  ER ST SC SN CL CH DH
  -- -- -- -- -- -- --
  40 51 00 ff ff ff 0f  Error: UNC at LBA = 0x0fffffff = 268435455

  Commands leading to the command that caused the error were:
  CR FR SC SN CL CH DH DC   Powered_Up_Time  Command/Feature_Name
  -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --  ----------------  --------------------
  25 00 08 ff ff ff ef 00   1d+00:56:17.596  READ DMA EXT
  ea 00 00 00 00 00 a0 00   1d+00:56:17.573  FLUSH CACHE EXT
  ca 00 01 08 f8 02 e0 00   1d+00:56:17.573  WRITE DMA
  ea 00 00 00 00 00 a0 00   1d+00:56:17.573  FLUSH CACHE EXT
  27 00 00 00 00 00 e0 00   1d+00:56:17.572  READ NATIVE MAX ADDRESS EXT

Error 5 occurred at disk power-on lifetime: 21198 hours (883 days + 6 hours)
  When the command that caused the error occurred, the device was active or idle.

  After command completion occurred, registers were:
  ER ST SC SN CL CH DH
  -- -- -- -- -- -- --
  40 51 00 ff ff ff 0f  Error: UNC at LBA = 0x0fffffff = 268435455

  Commands leading to the command that caused the error were:
  CR FR SC SN CL CH DH DC   Powered_Up_Time  Command/Feature_Name
  -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --  ----------------  --------------------
  25 00 08 ff ff ff ef 00   1d+00:56:14.281  READ DMA EXT
  c8 00 00 e0 ea f2 e3 00   1d+00:56:14.280  READ DMA
  25 00 08 ff ff ff ef 00   1d+00:56:14.279  READ DMA EXT
  25 00 08 ff ff ff ef 00   1d+00:56:14.279  READ DMA EXT
  25 00 08 ff ff ff ef 00   1d+00:56:14.278  READ DMA EXT

Error 4 occurred at disk power-on lifetime: 21198 hours (883 days + 6 hours)
  When the command that caused the error occurred, the device was active or idle.

  After command completion occurred, registers were:
  ER ST SC SN CL CH DH
  -- -- -- -- -- -- --
  40 51 00 ff ff ff 0f  Error: UNC at LBA = 0x0fffffff = 268435455

  Commands leading to the command that caused the error were:
  CR FR SC SN CL CH DH DC   Powered_Up_Time  Command/Feature_Name
  -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --  ----------------  --------------------
  25 00 08 ff ff ff ef 00   1d+00:56:10.445  READ DMA EXT
  27 00 00 00 00 00 e0 00   1d+00:56:10.418  READ NATIVE MAX ADDRESS EXT
  ec 00 00 00 00 00 a0 00   1d+00:56:10.409  IDENTIFY DEVICE
  ef 03 46 00 00 00 a0 00   1d+00:56:10.409  SET FEATURES [Set transfer mode]
  27 00 00 00 00 00 e0 00   1d+00:56:10.409  READ NATIVE MAX ADDRESS EXT

SMART Self-test log structure revision number 1
No self-tests have been logged.  [To run self-tests, use: smartctl -t]


SMART Selective self-test log data structure revision number 1
 SPAN  MIN_LBA  MAX_LBA  CURRENT_TEST_STATUS
    1        0        0  Not_testing
    2        0        0  Not_testing
    3        0        0  Not_testing
    4        0        0  Not_testing
    5        0        0  Not_testing
Selective self-test flags (0x0):
  After scanning selected spans, do NOT read-scan remainder of disk.
If Selective self-test is pending on power-up, resume after 0 minute delay.

/dev/md2:
        Version : 1.2
  Creation Time : Wed Nov 21 19:27:20 2012
     Raid Level : raid1
     Array Size : 898408256 (856.79 GiB 919.97 GB)
  Used Dev Size : 898408256 (856.79 GiB 919.97 GB)
   Raid Devices : 3
  Total Devices : 3
    Persistence : Superblock is persistent

    Update Time : Sat Sep 26 11:54:47 2015
          State : clean, degraded, recovering 
 Active Devices : 2
Working Devices : 3
 Failed Devices : 0
  Spare Devices : 1

 Rebuild Status : 5% complete

           Name : eisbock:2  (local to host eisbock)
           UUID : 8af5d183:37294196:b5882351:a335d84d
         Events : 2255

    Number   Major   Minor   RaidDevice State
       0       8        4        0      active sync   /dev/sda4
       1       8       20        1      active sync   /dev/sdb4
       2       8       36        2      spare rebuilding   /dev/sdc4

Edit: I do find it interesting that in spite of all the reallocated sectors, the drive hasn't been kicked from the array yet. I guess Linux's software RAID-1 implementation is just re-writing the affected sectors using a copy of the data from the other drive, and soldiering on.

jihadjoe · Sat Sep 26, 2015 1:20 pm

I fixed or rather, **** up my Moto 360 today!

So I noticed that one side of the watch was coming loose, and after watching the ifixit teardown learned that the thing is basically held together by adhesive, which could be removed by heating it and then very carefully prying things off. I figured some of the adhesive holding the watch internals must have gone soft, ironically due to the watch's own wireless charging which gets pretty hot. I tend to leave the watch on its charging pod whenever I'm at home and each time I take it off that pod the back is very warm.

I figured I'd take the watch apart and put a glue gun with a higher temp stick to work. Easy! How hard can it be?

Well that ifixit teardown specifically says it's very easy to damage the battery cover, and they weren't lying! In a few minutes I had managed to crack the part of it where I slid in a small blade to pry it off.

OTOH, aside from cosmetic damage to the back which hopefully no one will ever see, I did manage to put it back together and it's now no longer slightly ajar. Thinking about ordering a new rear cover/battery door, but that'll be another $15 to replace.

Thu Oct 08, 2015 9:18 pm

Replaced the switch that controls the lights over my wife's desk. The old one was making crackling noises, and intermittently cutting out. Cross one item (out of dozens) off the "to do" list!

Fri Oct 09, 2015 6:57 am

Last thing I fixed was a TV. My dad suffered a nearby lightning strike and it took out the power supply. An evening with the multimeter, an order from Mouser, and 30 minutes of soldering and it was as good as new (probably better). Ended up replacing the high voltage rectifier bridge (only half was bad but diodes are cheap), a couple of signal and zener diodes in switching feedback path and the switching FET.

No user serviceable parts indeed.... :lol:

--SS

Wed Oct 14, 2015 8:08 am

Yesterday was busy.

First thing in the morning I had to fix my son's bedroom door after he had slammed it hard in a fit of anger the night before. The lock had moved out slightly and was fouling on the striker plate making the door jam shut. Five minutes with a screwdriver and a hammer got the lock back in place, maybe I should have used them to fix him as well ;-)

Over the Thanksgiving weekend the central vac inlet on the ground floor had the spring that holds the cover closed snap. Picked up a new one on the way home from work and again 5 minutes with a screwdriver had that fixed too.

Then the electrician showed up and wired in my level 2 EVSE so I can charge my new electric car a lot quicker.

Finally I had an unopened growler of Kichesippi 1855 so I "fixed" that!

anotherengineer · Wed Oct 14, 2015 8:32 am

Every day is repair day with a 30+ yr old home, 2 older vehicles, 2 little ones, and a wife.

I estimated that even if I quit my job and worked at the list like a typical 40hr work week (of course summer would be a write off from parenting) it would probably keep me busy for over a year.

At the current rate, I estimate I can complete it after I retire............maybe. Maybe just building a new house would be easier and faster...........

SuperSpy · Wed Oct 14, 2015 10:23 am

This last week I've been renovating my son's room. His room has always been frigid in the winter and quite drafty.

So I started poking around and it turns out in my 50s-era brick house in southern Michigan, they decided not to install insulation at all. It's just a 5/8" sheet of drywall, a metallic vapor barrier, and a 1/2" air gap with wood backing strips attached directly to the exterior brick. In the course of adding various holes to the walls to run cat5 and such, I've made a mess of that vapor barrier, and let in lots of moisture.

So I decided to tear it all out and properly frame and insulate that room, and tearing down drywall sucks, especially when that room has formed drywall curves where the wall and ceiling meet, which I want to keep.

So far my progress:
https://i.imgur.com/6Zq5vCw.jpg https://i.imgur.com/x765eCl.jpg

Tonight I finish tearing out the last outlet (gotta find where it gets power), cleaning the mold, then maybe start laying down moisture barrier and 2x4 frame.

ludi · Wed Oct 14, 2015 11:14 am

SuperSpy wrote:
So I started poking around and it turns out in my 50s-era brick house in southern Michigan, they decided not to install insulation at all. It's just a 5/8" sheet of drywall, a metallic vapor barrier, and a 1/2" air gap with wood backing strips attached directly to the exterior brick.

Uhhh...have you already looked into the code practices for the new installation? In that type of construction (from days when heating fuels were cheap and people wore sweaters indoors), heat from the interior is EXPECTED to permeate the wall and circulate in the airgap, which then prevents the brick from retaining moisture and being structurally deteriorated. Simply framing and insulating over it per modern wood-frame construction practices could produce a much worse mess in 20 years.

See here for some pointers. Unfortunately, that does mean demo-ing the wall-to-ceiling transition, because the wall depth will increase quite a bit.

anotherengineer · Wed Oct 14, 2015 11:30 am

SuperSpy wrote:
This last week I've been renovating my son's room. His room has always been frigid in the winter and quite drafty.
Tonight I finish tearing out the last outlet (gotta find where it gets power), cleaning the mold, then maybe start laying down moisture barrier and 2x4 frame.

Wow is 2x4 really min code in the states??!! 2x6 is minimum up in Canada and R-50 in the attic. Pull that fiberglass out from around the windows and use window and door sprayfoam.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/GREAT-STUFF- ... /100068117

When putting walls up against brick/block/masonry usually need a vapor barrier both sides. The city and or state should provide you with codes for free if you ask.

Take your time, and make sure it's done right, it will be worth it in the end.
edit
other info
http://www.mah.gov.on.ca/Asset8275.aspx?method=1
I know its for basements, but can still apply to masonry above ground
and
https://www03.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/catalog/p ... 4840618811
and
http://www.nrcan.gc.ca/energy/efficienc ... ents/15768

Wed Oct 14, 2015 11:32 am

anotherengineer wrote:
The city and or state should provide you with codes for free if you ask.

Along with needless entanglements.

anotherengineer · Wed Oct 14, 2015 11:40 am

Captain Ned wrote:
anotherengineer wrote:
The city and or state should provide you with codes for free if you ask.

Along with needless entanglements.

lol well I don't live there so I don't know how it is. Here they will give you a typical drawing with what you have to do to meet min code. Do it yourself, get it inspected, done and done.

ludi · Wed Oct 14, 2015 11:56 am

anotherengineer wrote:
Wow is 2x4 really min code in the states??!! 2x6 is minimum up in Canada and R-50 in the attic.

Canada, you say? In the US, with the exception of some parts of the upper midwest, New England states, and the high elevations of the Rockies, the additional insulation isn't really required by climactic concerns. I have stayed in a condo at 10,300 feet in the Colorado Rockies where the exterior walls were somewhere between 12 and 18 inches thick; there's usually nothing preventing a builder from exceeding code if the climate and the customer's willingness to pay would prefer it.

BiffStroganoffsky · Wed Oct 14, 2015 12:02 pm

They offer the standard drawings to meet code here too but then, in order to get it inspected and 'legal', you have to purchase a permit. When deciding on the fees and taxes, they ask you what it will cost in materials and labor and then tell you that your number is too low and that it would cost 'this much' for a certified contractor to do said project so they are going to charge you like it was being built by a contractor but not allow you a business tax break because you do not have a license. :roll:

Jigar · Wed Oct 14, 2015 12:12 pm

Changed the AC outdoor unit's motor recently, hand never seen the wiring setup so took a video of it before replacing the motor.

https://youtu.be/B-UmFWbJQAw

Thank god repair went well and now the out door unit is whisper silent.

EDIT: Ninja edited the video link

anotherengineer · Wed Oct 14, 2015 12:15 pm

ludi wrote:
anotherengineer wrote:
Wow is 2x4 really min code in the states??!! 2x6 is minimum up in Canada and R-50 in the attic.

Canada, you say? In the US, with the exception of some parts of the upper midwest, New England states, and the high elevations of the Rockies, the additional insulation isn't really required by climactic concerns. I have stayed in a condo at 10,300 feet in the Colorado Rockies where the exterior walls were somewhere between 12 and 18 inches thick; there's usually nothing preventing a builder from exceeding code if the climate and the customer's willingness to pay would prefer it.

Of course.

My house was built to the R-2000 spec back in 1984
so have traditional brick 3.5" thick?
1" air gap
2" of styrofoam SM
1/2" or 5/8" plywood (can't remember)
2x6 wall
staggered 2x4 wall
1/2" drywall

Windows are western red cedar wood frame and glass is triple pane, unfortunately seals and stripping is all cracked so new windows are also on the 'to do' list.

1800 sq ft. (2700) including the basement and my 65,000 btu furnace has no problems heating it at -40C/F

anotherengineer · Wed Oct 14, 2015 12:17 pm

Jigar wrote:
Changed the AC outdoor unit's motor recently, hand never seen the wiring setup so took a video of it before replacing the motor.

https://youtu.be/SAxW0g7GhAQ

Thank good repair went well and now the out door unit is whisper silent.

nice.

I have to replace my evaporator, have a new one but contemplating tying it into my tap water and just mothballing the entire condenser lol (water is a flat rate here and cold all summer)

Prestige Worldwide · Wed Oct 14, 2015 1:16 pm

Just changed the battery in a dead Nexus 4 and breathed new life into an older testing device at work.

Awwww yissssss.

wizardz · Wed Oct 14, 2015 1:30 pm

anotherengineer wrote:

Of course.

My house was built to the R-2000 spec back in 1984
so have traditional brick 3.5" thick?
1" air gap
2" of styrofoam SM
1/2" or 5/8" plywood (can't remember)
2x6 wall
staggered 2x4 wall
1/2" drywall

Windows are western red cedar wood frame and glass is triple pane, unfortunately seals and stripping is all cracked so new windows are also on the 'to do' list.

1800 sq ft. (2700) including the basement and my 65,000 btu furnace has no problems heating it at -40C/F

all that stuff + 2x6 + staggered 2x4? jeebus, your wall must be a 4 foot thick!
montreal here with a new contruction (2010) and walls are just 2x6 with 5/8 ply and 1" vaporfoam thingy.

the only thing i regret is not "insulating" the interior walls to reduce sound propagation.

anotherengineer · Wed Oct 14, 2015 1:50 pm

Sound attenuation is a nice added bonus. Doing the math, walls work out to about 16.5" thick. Typically though it's just a 2x6 wall with 1" foam board on the outside and R-20 in the walls. Attics, windows, and doors are biggest heat loss areas.

Basement is only blocks though, but it's 12" blocks

edit - staggered walls, the walls are butted up tight to each other, the studs are staggered between walls to help further reduce heat loss.

BiffStroganoffsky · Wed Oct 14, 2015 2:07 pm

Staggered 2x4 walls are the same thickness as 2x6 studded walls. The 2x4 allows for a two inch gap between the opposing walls except at the top and bottom caps, which are usually 2x6s. They are generally spec'd for sound abatement though in interior walls though it could be used for an extra measure of insulation on exterior walls. I used staggered 2x4 for my media room.

anotherengineer · Wed Oct 14, 2015 3:22 pm

Indeed, poor wording on my part. A 2x4 wall with the studs offset relative to the the studs in the 2x6 wall.

BiffStroganoffsky · Wed Oct 14, 2015 6:48 pm

For some clarity...maybe: the 'staggered' part is achieved by having two 2x4 framing on both sides of the 2x6 ends. The spacing is actually half the distance for the normal 2x6 build except that every other 2x4 is faced flush with the opposite side of the 2x6 ends, thus isolating the wall on one side of the cavity from the other essentially isolating one side of the wall from the other. This extra insulation of the walls from one another creates a physical barrier to help abate the transmission of sound and heat from one wall surface to the other.

Thu Oct 15, 2015 3:30 pm

I haven't fixed anything (non work related anyway) this week, but then I'm just saving up for the next couple of months. We bought a new (to us) house today. While it is in great shape, there will be no end of minor things that need fixing as we move stuff in. I've got at least two ceiling fans to install, several closet doors that need latches fixed, light bulbs needing replacement, a hanging stained glass lamp to install, etc.

And then we have the big upcoming project. Somehow I think I got talked into doing a brake job on my daughter's boyfriend's car... :-?

Good thing I like him. :lol:

--SS

SoM · Thu Oct 15, 2015 4:32 pm

i fixed my pencil, had to sharpen it...

but yeah, i did patch some holes in the apartment (i made)

Fri Oct 16, 2015 8:36 am

SecretSquirrel wrote:
And then we have the big upcoming project. Somehow I think I got talked into doing a brake job on my daughter's boyfriend's car... Good thing I like him.

Brakes are easy if you have the right tools and it's not a Honda with the stupid rusted screws holding the disks on that you need to drill out.

SuperSpy · Fri Oct 16, 2015 10:21 am

notfred wrote:
SecretSquirrel wrote:
And then we have the big upcoming project. Somehow I think I got talked into doing a brake job on my daughter's boyfriend's car... Good thing I like him.

Brakes are easy if you have the right tools and it's not a Honda with the stupid rusted screws holding the disks on that you need to drill out.

It's not just Honda. I had to replace the rear calipers on my S-10 because I sheared off a rusted bolt trying to pull them off, and consequently destroy them trying to get the busted bolt out.

localhostrulez · Fri Oct 16, 2015 11:04 am

notfred wrote:
SecretSquirrel wrote:
And then we have the big upcoming project. Somehow I think I got talked into doing a brake job on my daughter's boyfriend's car... Good thing I like him.

Brakes are easy if you have the right tools and it's not a Honda with the stupid rusted screws holding the disks on that you need to drill out.

As much as I like percussive maintenance at times, yeah, things tend to be easier with the right tools. :wink:

I swear, finding the air compressor and attachments is, by far, the hardest part of filling up tires.

Fri Oct 16, 2015 4:19 pm

notfred wrote:
SecretSquirrel wrote:
And then we have the big upcoming project. Somehow I think I got talked into doing a brake job on my daughter's boyfriend's car... Good thing I like him.

Brakes are easy if you have the right tools and it's not a Honda with the stupid rusted screws holding the disks on that you need to drill out.

I'm not worried about doing it, I'm just wondering how I got convinced to do it. :-?

I've got all the tools as I've done brakes on my cars in the past. Barring the rusted on part, the only special tool I've ever needed was a caliper spreader.

-SS

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