Personal computing discussed
Moderators: askfranklin, renee, emkubed, Captain Ned
Waco wrote:I'm sitting at the MVD now to see if I can get it titled this week.
SecretSquirrel wrote:Now I just have to do the front suspension, but that's going to the shop. I learned my lesson the last time I messed with front struts.
just brew it! wrote:I am lucky to still have the use of both eyes, due to a DIY front strut replacement many years ago.
Waco wrote:An air compressor with a good impact wrench works magic on bolts like that. Done are my days with 6 foot levers and lots of weight only to break tools and/or snap bolts.
PB Blaster + impact wrench == unstuck bolt.
G8torbyte wrote:Waco wrote:An air compressor with a good impact wrench works magic on bolts like that. Done are my days with 6 foot levers and lots of weight only to break tools and/or snap bolts.
PB Blaster + impact wrench == unstuck bolt.
I recently tried that method along with a hand-held torch to heat and cool some corroded/fused exhaust flange bolts but had no luck. This gave me a good reason to get a new angle grinder to cut the bolts off and complete my project replacing stock exhaust on my Tundra truck with a Borla dual cat-back bolt-on kit. Northern road salting eats up the standard exhaust connections so I opted for the T304 stainless steel version with side exhaust since I pull trailers occasionally. The job was easy enough to do in my driveway but the bolt cutting and working out the rusted bolts was the most tedious part.
I checked torque settings and reset after a few weeks and all is good. I like Borla's mellow sound with the 5.7L engine and it is not brappy sounding. It does roar when I stomp it!
Kougar wrote:SecretSquirrel, I know that feeling well. Takes about the same amount of time to swap a battery in my car. Ironically my car is now also in the shop for new front struts... but that leads into a general question I wanted to ask...
Today came out of my favorite sub shop after lunch and found the car wouldn't start, obvious weak electrical connection. Popped the hood and found the positive battery terminal had all but disconnected from the battery. It's a sidewall terminal style battery... and the thing wouldn't screw back into the battery. Battery is <18 months old. Had to get my car towed to the shop because of a single bolt-screw (not even the AAA guy and tower guy could get it to mount again). Anyone else had a battery terminal mount pop itself out with enough force to strip the terminal screw threading before??
SecretSquirrel wrote:Kougar wrote:SecretSquirrel, I know that feeling well. Takes about the same amount of time to swap a battery in my car. Ironically my car is now also in the shop for new front struts... but that leads into a general question I wanted to ask...
Today came out of my favorite sub shop after lunch and found the car wouldn't start, obvious weak electrical connection. Popped the hood and found the positive battery terminal had all but disconnected from the battery. It's a sidewall terminal style battery... and the thing wouldn't screw back into the battery. Battery is <18 months old. Had to get my car towed to the shop because of a single bolt-screw (not even the AAA guy and tower guy could get it to mount again). Anyone else had a battery terminal mount pop itself out with enough force to strip the terminal screw threading before??
Did you do the last swap, or did a shop? If the terminals are lead, its really easy to strip the threads out over torquing the bolt. Even if you just started breaking the threads off, a year and a half of road vibration would certainly do the rest for you. Could also just be a defect in the battery manufacture.
--SS
SecretSquirrel wrote:I tend to be a bit proactive of maintenance of this car as I really would like another six years or so out of it.
Captain Ned wrote:SecretSquirrel wrote:I tend to be a bit proactive of maintenance of this car as I really would like another six years or so out of it.
Like you, I "pre-load" the preventative maintenance. I expect to buy a new ride every five years and that the old one will have roughly 130K miles on it when it goes. I don't worry about body dings, but I can guarantee the next owner that the mechanicals have been properly cared for.
The local shop I've used for almost 30 years now can print out a full service history on any car I've ever run through there, including the oil changes they've done on my cars for 15 years or so where I supply them the oil, the filter, and the Subie oil-pan crush ring. Between time and dollars spent, I'm on a first-name basis with the owner, let alone the front line. They are quite accustomed to my odd requests.
Young gerbils: Do yourself right and make this kind of relationship. A long-term shop will tell you what needs to be done now and what can be pushed off for another 10K miles or so. They know they're getting the business.
SecretSquirrel wrote:It was much easier to find the "good" shops when I lived in a less urban part of the country.
llisandro wrote:Aw man, this is on my to do list