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I'm looking for a 1911 but my budget isn't too large: $500-700. Aside from Rock Island Armory, which I've read is pretty good for the money, what other ones would you guys suggest I look at? One thing to take note of is that I do live in California so it must be on the approved list.

I don't think I'll be buying particularly soon, though, seeing as stock in my price range (plus 100 bucks or so) seems to be sold out everywhere - is this because of fear of increased restrictions? (not trying to bring R&P in, just curious)

This does seem like it could be easily posted in the gun control thread in the R&P Forum.
However my thoughts are that high prices and low inventory is just the new normal. You should pick the gun you want and then save for it. Saving 300 bucks on something that is potentialy saving your life does not make sense.

Remington and Para Ordnance, as well as Taurus can be had in that price range.

Zombie Nazi target!


Zombie Clown target!


Zombie Bin Laden target, now more relevant since the SEALs got a hold of him


My baby with front and rear iron up


My baby, front and rear irons down


My wife and my rifles together. Mine on top, cause I like being on top

I built both rifles in much the same way I build my own PCs. Selected top shelf components and put em together. My rifle took a bit of custom dremel work to get the free floating rail system to not contact the front iron sight. I prefer having the front and rear irons down usually, relying totally on the Eotech sights. The iron sights only use is if the batteries in the Eotech dies, I can still aim in traditional style.

What's the V-shaped thing on the bottom of the forearm?

it's an angled foregrip made by Magpul. It's more natural of a holding angle then VFG's are. While I was still building that rifle and switching components back and forth to find the perfect mix, I had a VFG on it and didn't like it a whole lot. The AFG provides more stability for me at the ranges.

Nice rifles. I've one of those Magpul foregrips and I could never get used to it. Just felt awkward to me.

Here's a picture of the same rifle with a different rail system and a VFG installed, shortly after I got the upper and lower receivers. That rail system was later replaced with a Daniel Defense Omega X rail system, a free floating rail system that required a lot of work to install and make work with the Yankee Hill folding front sight I later put in to replace the sightless gas chamber that was included with that upper receiver.

Picked up a .40. Looking for a 9 to complete the set.

Dagwood wrote:

This does seem like it could be easily posted in the gun control thread in the R&P Forum.
However my thoughts are that high prices and low inventory is just the new normal. You should pick the gun you want and then save for it. Saving 300 bucks on something that is potentialy saving your life does not make sense.

Yeah, I think this is how it's going to be for quite a while. I'd love to get a 1911, but stock of just about anything firearms related is utterly depleted and on long backorder. There's no telling how long the panic-buying is going to last.

The Swamp wrote:

There's no telling how long the panic-buying is going to last.

January 21, 2017 is the earliest stop date.

^^^ I think that's awfully close to R&P material, Ned. You know better.

1911s and revolvers are plentiful and normally priced at the LGS here. It's the polymer hi-cap stuff that's scarce and expensive.

I've had a hard time finding revolvers where I am. I haven't seriously searched for 1911s since I had assumed that the massive, epic run on guns had affected their supply, too. One thing I was thinking about was a nice .22 rifle, say, a Ruger. I haven't checked, so I don't know if there is a massive shortage on those, as well. What would you suggest for a nice .22 rifle?

mortifiedPenguin wrote:

I don't think I'll be buying particularly soon

Turns out I was wrong . I managed to find an RIA 1911 Tactical in the $400-500 range (from what I read, that's about right?). It got to the dealer last Thursday and I can pick it up on Monday.

While I've fired rented guns, this will be my first personal one... any tips on maintenance? And where do I find cheap, decent ammo?

mortifiedPenguin wrote:

any tips on maintenance?

Hoppes #9 for everything, even the polymer stuff. I also use a synthetic grease on my Sig, TW25b. I tend to stay away from Breakfree and CLP, but thats just a preference of mine fueled by the overuse of it while I was on active duty.

mortifiedPenguin wrote:

And where do I find cheap, decent ammo?

These days cheap is a relative term. For practice I bought a case of 180gr FMJ .40 S&W at a gun show for $135 last month.

For CC I use Federal Premium HST and Hornady Critical Defense.

The Swamp wrote:

I've had a hard time finding revolvers where I am. I haven't seriously searched for 1911s since I had assumed that the massive, epic run on guns had affected their supply, too. One thing I was thinking about was a nice .22 rifle, say, a Ruger. I haven't checked, so I don't know if there is a massive shortage on those, as well. What would you suggest for a nice .22 rifle?

I usually recommend a Ruger 10/22. They used to be pretty cheap, they are great little guns and they have more accessories than an iPhone. You can start basic and over the years add on all sort of accessories to make it do pretty much everything. Want some black tacticool plinker? Buy an Archangel stock and a holosight. Long range accuracy? Buy a heavy bull barrel, thumbhole stock and drop in a new trigger. Want to get really weird? Buy a bullpup stock and paint it electric green.

You can still find 'em if you're patient. But a lot of people who previously have not been into guns are buying their first gun now. And a lot of people are recommending 10/22s for these new shooters. I'm seeing used ones go for $400-$700 depending on the accessories. They should be running about $250.

Looking for Knowledge wrote:

Picked up a .40. Looking for a 9 to complete the set.

Thats a nice .40, how much did that set you back?

tanker27 wrote:

Looking for Knowledge wrote:

Picked up a .40. Looking for a 9 to complete the set.

Thats a nice .40, how much did that set you back?

Thanks.

It was $550 ftf, but only came with one magazine. It has the older non-polygonal barrel rifling, which dates the .40 as pre-94'. That has its pros and cons, but I think it helped keep the price down. That, and I had to drive almost an hour each way for the meet (used that as a nice scenic drive and dinner at a local lodge w/the better half).

In comparrison, I picked up the .45 almost new with 3 magazines and hard case for $650 three or four years ago.

tanker27 wrote:

mortifiedPenguin wrote:

any tips on maintenance?

Hoppes #9 for everything, even the polymer stuff. I also use a synthetic grease on my Sig, TW25b. I tend to stay away from Breakfree and CLP, but thats just a preference of mine fueled by the overuse of it while I was on active duty.

Hoppe's for cleaning fouling. CLP for protection. CLP is absolute garbage as a cleaner/solvent (I carried a bottle of Hoppe's with me when I went to war), but it works really good as a lubricant and protectant. Which is probably why the military uses it, because if a firearm is properly lubed and protected from rust, it will still work. A gun that's clean but improperly lubed or protected will fail quickly. Cleanliness is overrated. Still, I like my guns clean, not just oily.

Regarding lubricaton, if it slides on a rail, use grease. If it rotates on a pin, use oil and/or CLP.

mortifiedPenguin wrote:

And where do I find cheap, decent ammo?

Reload. Otherwise, Wal-Mart. And good luck finding anything there right now.

Vrock wrote:

Reload.

Dad's old Lyman rig is looking tasty. Only die set I'd need is .40 S&W and I don't think that'll be an issue.

Can't tell you how many hours I spent while quite young in the cellar helping Dad reload on a single press (I got the cartridge lube pad and primer setting duties). The only time he'd ever shoo me out was if he had to punch out live primers. At this point the pounds of powder in the cabinets must be bad but the brass and bullets are still good to go. Given what he reloaded, 7mm Rem Mag and .270 Winchester, most of that powder will be Hodgson 4831.

Vrock wrote:

Reload.

From what I've read, that's almost a hobby in and of itself. While I think I'll stick to just one new hobby (for now ), what's it take to get into reloading? I've also read here and there that reloading supplies are also starting to be in short(er) supply. True?

mortifiedPenguin wrote:

Vrock wrote:

Reload.

From what I've read, that's almost a hobby in and of itself. While I think I'll stick to just one new hobby (for now ), what's it take to get into reloading? I've also read here and there that reloading supplies are also starting to be in short(er) supply. True?

Yup, it is a hobby in and of itself...but if you're a "tinkerer", it's mucho fun.

Supplies are in relatively short supply. I can still find powder, primers, and pistol bullets locally, but NOBODY seems to have any 55gr cannelured .224 bullets...online or local.

Price wise you could buy a Lee setup and be ready to start loading for about $300-$400.

The Lee Classic Turret Press Kit goes for $200, the regular kit is about $120. Includes everything you need except dies, which are $20-$35 a set depending on caliber and type.

Anyone know a place where I could get a sick paint job on a .44 magnum.

I used one not long ago and I fell in love!

Black Applesauce wrote:

Anyone know a place where I could get a sick paint job on a .44 magnum.

I used one not long ago and I fell in love!

I don't know what you have in mind, but look here:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Joint-Fo ... 1295691050

I'm thinking of picking up an AR-15. I am not going to spend extravagantly. Just start out with the basics and build on it.

Anything I should pay particular attention to? Anything I should make sure I avoid?

Best/worst brands for this approach?

[R&P content edited. --JBI]

Buub wrote:

I'm thinking of picking up an AR-15. I am not going to spend extravagantly. Just start out with the basics and build on it.

Anything I should pay particular attention to? Anything I should make sure I avoid?

Best/worst brands for this approach?

[R&P content edited. --JBI]

Don't buy now. Prices are ridiculous at the moment. Wait. These rifles will be available later for less. Brand matters little. Features you want are a 4150 cmv steel barrel. Cold hammer forged types are supposed to be better, but I've not seen this true in practice. 4140 barrels are okay but may not last as long/function as well under rapid fire conditions. I prefer a A3 style flattop receiver with a fixed front iron sight. Chrome lined barrels make cleaning much easier and increase barrel life but supposedly have a marginal effect on accuracy. Again, I've not seen any appreciable difference in practice at 100 yards. Get a M16 type bolt carrier if you can, but if you can't a AR15 type is fine. Magpul accessories are nice when you're thinking of upgrading. 20" barrels have measurably better ballistics than 16" barrels. Avoid 14.5" barrels with welded flash hiders; velocity and flexibility suffers. Optics are nice but not necessary and overrated in my opinion. I hit 300 meter man sized targets without them routinely when I served, and I'm only a Sharpshooter with the platform.

Vrock, what's your eyesight like? I learned the hard way during my Appleseed experience that I just flat can't see well enough, even with my glasses on, to do decent without some optics. Everything's too...fuzzy for lack of a better word. Damned if I understand how that's really possible with glasses but oh well.

If and when I get a semi-auto, I want to get something with a good mount for a low power fixed magnification optic; the problem is that looking around it looks like those are *more* expensive than variable power scopes. but 4x was enough for me out to 100 yards with a .22 and my 30-30.

paulWTAMU wrote:

Everything's too...fuzzy for lack of a better word. Damned if I understand how that's really possible with glasses but oh well.

Maybe your prescription is a little off, or maybe you have "lack of accommodation" (a condition that typically becomes more pronounced as you get older, it's the reason many people over 50 need bifocals/progressives).