I read this and kinda thought "meh." Gaming reviews are like anything else: 90% of them are crap. It's no different if you look at most movie or music reviews.
To address specific points: Ya, it only takes a couple of hours to watch a movie or listen to a CD, where an RPG may take 100 hours to play through, but you don't need to complete a game to know whether it's well-coded or a buggy POS; whether it's well- or poorly written or what it's graphics and gameplay are like. If a product is entertaining enough to make you *want* to spend 100 hours with it, that should be enough.
As to complaints about workload and time: again, how is this any different from movies or music? Roger Ebert writes four or five reviews a week, and does a syndicated show doing the same, and answers letters, and writes an essay about filmmaking each and every week, and he's widely regarded as one of the strongest critics out there. And the "Ebert" of gaming journalism, IMO, is Eurogamer, where they offer amusing and thoughtful reviews which free of bias and are consistently fun to read. Good gaming journalism is out there, for those who care to look.
The scourge of gaming journalism (which was not mentioned on Firing Squad), is dishonesty. Sites which sell good reviews for ad revenue are far and away worse for the industry in general.