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Hi, should be receiving the last bits needed to create new set of power cables for my PS tomorrow.

My question is, how do I verify cables are electrically solid? For house electrical, i checked temperature in addition to voltage to see if any connections/sockets might cause future headache. Voltage was easy, the connections just have to look OK and voltage is fine. Temp was only thing that caught future failures(socket/connection ran hotter than others...)

Whats an idiot proof way to check my new wires? This is a Sugo SG13B mini-ITX build, so only about 30' of wire involved for everything.

I'm careful, my connections will all match what Molex says they should look like. I am wondering how to do this safely? Not an electrician.

Anyone do this a lot? Have any tips?

Tug on all the wires to make sure the crimps are tight (I assume you're crimping your own Molex pins). Checking temperature at the connections while under load like you did with your AC wiring project is a good idea too, if feasible.

Yes bought all new everything to keep the original cables for spare.

Plus spare, so i can rewire any new GPU and SATA configs with exactly what i need. (2 ssd + 4hdd(laptop) config to future m.2 + 3ssd)

is there a safe but dumb way to test them? like use to power a 50 watt lamp instead of testing via my power supply? Or asking to electrocute myself and or invalid test?

I see 3x 12 volt wires for 8pin PCIe, so 150watt/3 im guessing max of 50 watts load on a single wire? Is 50 VA (12@4) ok to test via 50([email protected])?

I only took one electrical class in high school a long time ago.

What kind of wire did you get? I like epdm insulation jacket, it's soft very flexible rubber, usually rated from 90C to 125C and up to 600V. Wire gauge, for short runs like that 18ga I think is good for 8amps?
I like general cable Carol brand for rubber cords.

http://www.awcwire.com/productspec.aspx?id=epdm-hypalon

PVC jacket/insulation is typically stiff. Individual wires on their own would typically be called hook up wire.

edit 8A x 12V = 96W
So typical 6 pin, 3 pos and 3 negs, so 3 circuits, 96W/circuit good for almost 300W would have to check what the pins in the molex connectors are rated for. Ratings are typically give in Voltage and Amperage.

18 AWG using 16 strands 30AWG Tin Clad Stranded Copper Wire VW-1, UL1007, 80C 300V 7A

PCEi spec says 150 watts max via one 8pin connector which has three hot 12v wires.

Was going to try solid, than saw molex connector is made for stranded. Couldn't find any reference for solid copper.
Than verified that my Corsair SF450 uses tin clad copper, so...

edit: i really wanted black, but meh, im cheap:
pilgrim electric 500' gray 18AWG 16/30 tin clad copper
I have it in hand, the PVC insulation is nice. Dont see any issues.

Solid is not a good idea anyway, if you're ever going to work inside the case again after assembling the system. It does not like being repeatedly bent/unbent.

Was actually looking for solid because it could keep its shape

blahsaysblah wrote:

Was actually looking for solid because it could keep its shape

I'm with JBI. Save the solid copper for wiring the house and use stranded.

Captain Ned wrote:

blahsaysblah wrote:

Was actually looking for solid because it could keep its shape

I'm with JBI. Save the solid copper for wiring the house and use stranded.

Already bought stranded since the left over will probably go into friends PCs. Now that i spent the $ to buy the tools.