TR Forums

Hello guys.

I need some new fans for my computer, and i want to hear your opinion.

I need a total 7 fans, 4 of them has to be low profile. 

As you can see on the picture, a 25mm fan cant fit next to the rad. 

i have looked at Cryorigs XT140, and their QF120 Ballance
 http://www.cryorig.com/qf120_us.php
http://www.cryorig.com/xt140_us.php

I really want a silent system, so will it match that?


***LINK TO IMAGE**
http://www.dumpt.com/img/viewer.php?fil ... pfxjbb.jpg

Don't mean to be unhelpful, but it's 2017 - do you really NEED seven fans?

My insides gets really hot with the 2 front fans and 3 top rad fans i have now.

Its 5930k, x99-s and ddr4. It produces a lot of heat apparantly

It runs hot because it's in a H440 with the front on.

Nice case, I've had one, but it's a dog for a custom loop with the front on.

Take the front off and watch your temps dive, or spring for a new case in place of the fans and eliminate the problem altogether.

Additionally, while the 15mm fans are okay for airflow and noise, they suck at pressure - so don't put them on a radiator

Yeah, seven is a lot.  I've used five before in a watercooled PC which I considered quiet(I often have a stricter tolerance on that than most), but that was with a fan controller set to run them at half speed.  Four were on the radiator with one case fan.  Without the fan controller it's pretty much impossible to use that many fans and not make a lot of noise.

The last time I bought fans they were from Phanteks.  Amazon says they were the PH-F140SP, and it looks like the model is still around.

I dont have a rad in the front. I have a 360 in the top, and a Phobya 1080 on the side of the case. 

My plan was to install the 3 slim fans in the front and 1 in the back, and the 3 normal fans on the top of the rad. i need it on the top for spacing otherwise the rad wont fit,

See image
http://www.dumpt.com/img/viewer.php?fil ... md0fhl.jpg 

How much of an OC are you running on your 5930K?  What GPU.  What are CPU/GPU temps under load?

You've got a comical amount of rads in/on your system.  You're far past the point of diminishing returns with rads and fans.

If both of those images are your system, it looks like all the rads (inside and out) are hooked to the CPU only?

If you want to reduce noise, lose a couple rad fans.  I doubt your temps will change in any significant way.  You could remove the 4 fans on your 1080 rad and just run that passive.  The two fans on the 360mm rad ought to be able to dissipate what's left 

I'm using the Rosewill Rosewill Seal, Silent, IP56 Dust Resistant & Splash Proof 120 mm Case Fan RAWR-141209120mm fans, two in front, two on top, one on the back. Oh, and two on my coolermaster 212 heatsink. Its reasonably quiet.

It doesn't matter where the radiator is in the case - it's just a terrible case for airflow full stop. Remove the front panel, unplumb the 1080 radiator (even if you plumb that GPU in you won't need it) and watch your temps come down mate - I promise. I've been there and done that

I use 7 fans on my H440. The intake and exhaust areas aren't really all that big and if you think about all the soundproofing, the point of the H440 is to have lots of VERY SLOW fans to provide lower noise level than one fan with 3x the CFM.

It's a case designed for absolute silence without going fanless. You're simply doing it wrong if you try to use high TDP parts and jam radiators in there. You can see from the design of the intakes and top exhaust that the entire layout is for low-airflow, sound-absorbing, low-static-pressure, low-rpm cooling. NZXT don't claim it's anything other than that.

Rather than spending money on 7 fans, consider switching to a case that is designed for primarily for unhindered airflow not sound reduction with baffled airflow paths and a low ratio of fan area to intake/exhaust area. You will get your quiet PC by feeding all your hot-running components the freshest air so that the fans don't have to spin as fast, not by trying to lock the noisy stuff into a soundproofed box

i know i have a crazy amount of rad area. - but its fun and looks sick.  

My temp on the cpu after 30 min of prime95, with the 1080 rads fans on 300rpm is about 36C. 

I know the H440 is very bad designed airflow wise (hence the external rad)  

For now its only the CPU, witch is running 4,9GHz, that is on the rad, but that is only because im wating for the 1080Ti, and a waterblock for that. I dont want to mod my 980Ti with a new gpu around the corner (march of what i have heard)

The plan was, by taking all the heat out of the case, to a large rad, with large slow spinning fans, i wouldnt need to move so much air thru the case, just enough to dissipate the heat from the ram and SSD´s.  

The H440 isn't badly designed. It's brilliantly designed. You're just using it wrong!

You've bought a low-airflow noise-reduction case and you're trying to get high airflow out of it with components that don't even fit in it. Just change the case man. 7 decent quality, fluid-bearing fans in an unusual 15mm profile will probably cost you as much as a new case anyway.

You are right, but you cant get a lot of air in and out. with my 980ti and the stock fans in the front, and stock one in the rear cant keep the case cool. It runs 90C with the fan and shouty-mode. I can feel the plexiglas is getting hot.  So basicly my internals are too heat generating for the case.

Therefore i will do as you say, with low rpm fans, but i still need to get rid of the heat from a 1080TI (maybe 2 over time) and the 5930k, ram, mobo and 8 SSD´s, but still at minimal noise.

And thats why the rad came on to the side, so i can transfer the heat from inside to outside the case, blow it away, veeeery slowly  

As it is now with 2 x stock front fans its completely silent until the GPU wakes up. Then the inside temp gets up in the 50´s

I just love the design of the h440, i just orderen 4 Cryorig XT140 for the front, it can go as low as 11db, and 3 Cryorig XT120 Balance for the top. Goes to 11db as well. Then the big rad can take care of the rest  

275o wrote:

My temp on the cpu after 30 min of prime95, with the 1080 rads fans on 300rpm is about 36C.

Good grief.  You know that most people are elated with 50C under load right?  Like I said, if you want to buy new fans to reduce noise, consider unplugging the 4 fans from your 1080 rad first.  Yes, they're running at low rpm, but they still make noise, and being on the side panel (outside) your case, the noise is completely unrestricted.  I did a side panel fan for my last system to keep GPU temps in check and found that I needed the absolute slowest quietest fan I could find for it to be tolerable.  I can understand why you wouldn't want to get rid of that crazy 1080 rad since it cost so much, but that doesn't mean you NEED it.  And it's still giving some benefit even running fanless.  The two fans on your 360 rad inside the case are good for case airflow, so I'd leave them.

Also, I would't expect a GTX1080Ti to draw more power than your 980Ti.  Check out TRs power consumption numbers in their GTX1080 review.

The best way to deal with heat in a H440 is to look at what airflow it does have and how best to use it.

If it were me trying to make the best of a bad situation (High TDP CPU and GPU in an H440) I would consider this:

• It has narrow intakes on 3 sides at the front with minimal obstruction behind. I would fit 3x120mm high airflow fans here.
• It has narrow exhausts on 2 sides at the top with a baffle obstructing direct exhaust airflow. I would fit your 360mm radiator here with 3x120mm high static pressure fans.

With the PSU fan isolated (face down) there's lots of positive pressure like this because you have high airflow fans with low restrictions at the front and lower airflow fans at the top with both a radiator and obstructed air path as exhuast. This means if you put a high-airflow 140mm in the rear exhaust you will have VERY effective removal of hot air around the CPU socket.

I would suggest you use the topmount 360mm radiator to cool the GPU and use a good 120 or 140 tower on your CPU with the airflow pointed rearwards, not upwards. The positive pressure and rear 140mm fan should keep the socket area cool without dumping heat into the radiator above it. The 140 will also draw heat off the back of the GPU and straight out of the case.

The problem with this is that you need to buy a waterblock for your GPU - and these usually cost more than a new case. The alternative is to open up the front and top panels which ruin the looks of the H440.

Could the PSU shroud be modified to mount a 120mm fan to the top of it and draw air through some sort of conduit from a hole made in the bottom of the case?  If not 120mm, 92mm?  That would drive a bottom-up airflow in the case.  Currently with the front and top fans, the GPU may not be getting a lot of direct airflow.

Clearly the CPU is overcooled and the GPU is undercooled.  Just looking at ways to give the GPU some TLC.

So what, exactly, is running too hot? Once you get that GPU in the loop...I'm missing something. What's left that produces enough heat that the fans you have now don't suffice?

I think this is where I implore Zalman to make a 6-foot tall 12-inch-wide Reserator with fins like those on WWII radial aircraft engines, but vertically-aligned. It'll at least do a good job of keeping the room warm. Offer the option for it to be anodized in any color to meet your room decor and voilà! Heck, the coolant volume alone would keep anything cool.

Now to figure out how to install a toroidal low-rev silent fan at the bottom of this beastie just to ensure the convection current gets started.

275o wrote:

I dont have a rad in the front. I have a 360 in the top, and a Phobya 1080 on the side of the case. 

My plan was to install the 3 slim fans in the front and 1 in the back, and the 3 normal fans on the top of the rad. i need it on the top for spacing otherwise the rad wont fit,

See image
http://www.dumpt.com/img/viewer.php?fil ... md0fhl.jpg 

Sweet rig:)

Yeah, i know i could go with a completely different configuration, but now i have drilled holes in the h440 to fit the rad on the side.

I had a 120mm closed loop on the CPU before, but it had a hard time extracting the heat without the fan went loud. 

As @Chrispy_ states, i maybe went for the wrong enclosure for my build, but it was the only case that passed the WAF-test, tho the WAF disapeared wen i mounted the rad on the side.  

I just want to make the best out of it. 

As soon the GPU gets in the loop, there will be no problem at all. The top rad could most like make enough flow for the Ram and ssd´s to be fine, the original question was about some fans, and if someone had experience with them and their acoustic characteristics. 

The case is as it is for now. I used a lot of money on the crazy rad, so i just want to hold on to it for the laughs for now.  

But i want to thank everyone in the thread for an enlightening debate! I definitely learned something for my next build

275o wrote:

You are right, but you cant get a lot of air in and out. with my 980ti and the stock fans in the front, and stock one in the rear cant keep the case cool. It runs 90C with the fan and shouty-mode. I can feel the plexiglas is getting hot.  So basicly my internals are too heat generating for the case.

The 980ti is going to run 90C with the stock blower/cooler, that's by design (they target 90C to keep fan noise minimal). Unless you're actually seeing problems with heat otherwise...this feels like no problem.

Chrispy_ wrote:

The best way to deal with heat in a H440 is to look at what airflow it does have and how best to use it.

If it were me trying to make the best of a bad situation (High TDP CPU and GPU in an H440) I would consider this:

• It has narrow intakes on 3 sides at the front with minimal obstruction behind. I would fit 3x120mm high airflow fans here.
• It has narrow exhausts on 2 sides at the top with a baffle obstructing direct exhaust airflow. I would fit your 360mm radiator here with 3x120mm high static pressure fans.

Hey, I just realized that's the case I have! I bought it for the 3.5"/2.5" dual bays, although the noise reduction is awesome. And yes, I did exactly what Chrispy_ suggested above. Temps are on the high side, but nothing that's a problem.

I agree that it's not designed around airflow... at all.

Yeah, i know Waco. thats no problem for me, the problem is that the fan gets very noise to keep it at 90C  i think it runs about 70-80% fan speed when gaming. 

But silent in video editing 

Since you've bought the radiators and you don't want to waste the investment, double-down and buy the GPU waterblock
I think the internal radiator should be for the CPU and the external radiator for the GPU.

Remove front panel-three inlet fans-heat problem solved.

If looks bother you manufacture a pictureframe to fit on front..............................................

275o wrote:

Yeah, i know Waco. thats no problem for me, the problem is that the fan gets very noise to keep it at 90C  i think it runs about 70-80% fan speed when gaming. 

But silent in video editing 

There are no amount of case fans that will fix that.

Waco wrote:

275o wrote:

Yeah, i know Waco. thats no problem for me, the problem is that the fan gets very noise to keep it at 90C  i think it runs about 70-80% fan speed when gaming. 

But silent in video editing 

There are no amount of case fans that will fix that.

Nope, but if i remove the side panel, the fan goes down, so i have a lot of trapped heat. 
The mailman is on the way here with 4 Cryorig XT140 and 3 Cryorig XF120 balance. Getting it in the computer sunday, so i will update you here. im going to my moms place in the other side of the country(denmark)  today, so i cant play arround this weekend. 

HERETIC wrote:

Remove front panel-three inlet fans-heat problem solved.

If looks bother you manufacture a pictureframe to fit on front..............................................

I see a project for a 3D printer - a better inlet design for the front panel  

I have been using NH L9i Noctua and I can say it's a very compact fan. It is actually designed for small factor machines. I don't know if it's what you want but you can check it out. 

275o wrote:

HERETIC wrote:

Remove front panel-three inlet fans-heat problem solved.

If looks bother you manufacture a pictureframe to fit on front..............................................

I see a project for a 3D printer - a better inlet design for the front panel  

Or just spacers to move the front panel an extra inch further out. 

If you do remove the front panel or completely open it up, consider flipping the PSU over so that it acts as an additional exhaust. The restricted top exhaust and single rear exhaust could benefit from an extra exhaust via the PSU if you have 3x120 unrestricted intakes.