Moderator: Captain Ned
I tried unplugging and plugging everything back in. Logitech said florescent lightbulbs or dimmer switches in a room can cause interference (both of which my room has). Took them to another room, plugged directly into a wall. No gain. I eventually began to think it was the control pod to sub cable that was **** up. Wiggling it around, playing with the pin connector to the sub, or even fumbling the control pod upside down would decrease/increase the hum. Now doing any of that does nothing.
Also with my system hooked up properly, say when I am playing PS3 with optical input, the control pod will read that it detects nothing, only when live sound is present. (ie noise in a game, clicking around the XMB menu) During silence like load screens the hum will die, along with the audio signal and the control pod will go back to saying there's no input detected. These symptoms are identical when hooked up to my external sound card for my pc. Clues, anyone? Desperate here.
SergiuDan wrote:I am sending out this warning message to everyone owning a z5500 or z906 or any sound system from Logitech.
My system is about 5 years old, very good condition, bought second-hand two months ago. A couple days ago it started making an annoying hiss from the speakers. The humming sub was that way from the begging.
Anyway, I decided to open the sub and see what could be wrong. I was astonished when I saw that one of the wires, specifically the red one coming from the toroidal transformer, was missing from the bridge rectifier and was glued with silicone to the floor of the sub.There were just the other three wires connected to the bridge :two yellows and one black. So the system was working with a mono-phased bridge rectifier and the DC voltage it was providing to the main board was not as constant as with the full bridge working. You heard me right, the red wire had its connector GLUED with silicone to the base of the sub. The bridge rectifier is supposed to work using 4 diodes, but with the red wire disconnected, two of them were not used, for smoothing out the AC voltage. Now I am really mad at this company and specifically at the worker who could not get his **** together and connect all the wires properly,making such a big **** mistake. Anyone who is experiencing hissing in speakers and humming from the sub should CHECK THE BRIDGE RECTIFIER!!!
SergiuDan wrote:I was astonished when I saw that one of the wires, specifically the red one coming from the toroidal transformer, was missing from the bridge rectifier and was glued with silicone to the floor of the sub.There were just the other three wires connected to the bridge :two yellows and one black. So the system was working with a mono-phased bridge rectifier and the DC voltage it was providing to the main board was not as constant as with the full bridge working.
ludi wrote:Your astonishment may have diminished after studying the circuit more closely. This doesn't sound like a manufacturing botch-up, it sounds like a cheap-and-cheerful way of differentiating between 120 and 240V models without having to to modify any other components save the power cord. As long as the rectified DC is feeding into a switch mode power supply the extra ripple current doesn't matter much.
SpotTheCat wrote:Here is a video of the weirdness. Optical no longer freezes it, but analog does.
morphine wrote:You should repair it, you can blow out an amp like that IME.
Krogoth wrote:I'll probably upgrade to a real 5.1 digital receiver setup since DD/DTS passthrough via Displayport/HDMI is the way to go with 3D audio on modern gaming titles.