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Out of the blue for some reason, I can't get left shift button and W to work anymore when I use them together. I don't know why it's started and every other button works with that shift button. I have to use the right shift button in order for the W capital letter to work and I don't know how to fix it. please help

Also, I have tried uninstalling the driver and restarting, the sticky key is unticked as well just to throw that out there. also also I have also tried unplugging the usb and switching it out with where the mouse usb is plugged in. That didn't work either.

one more thing, I have even gone so far as reinstalling the newest windows 10, still the problem is there.

Does the keyboard do the same thing when connected to another computer? If so, then the keyboard has gone bad.

When you try to use the left-shift and W, what happens? Do you get a lowercase W, or do you get nothing?

I don't have another computer. It does nothing. Thanks for the reply

Since you don't have another system to test the keyboard on, you will either need to borrow another keyboard to try, or connect it to someone else's computer. That way you can narrow it down to the keyboard or a software issue with the computer.

When you did the reinstall did you do a full wipe or is it possible you carried over some settings from the previous install?

Really sounds like a failing keyboard to me. Maybe a failed blocking diode in the switch matrix. Is this a mechanical n-key rollover model?

https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/k120
That's the keyboard

I completely wiped the drive before reinstall meaning I deleted the drive then started as a new drive before reinstall

That is a $15 keyboard.

rnalsation wrote:

That is a $15 keyboard.

I think I'd cut my losses and buy another.

Given that you did a full wipe and reinstall, it is all but certain that this is a problem with the keyboard itself. It is not worth attempting a component-level repair on a $15 keyboard. The most I'd do is take it apart and see if something conductive (e.g. small piece of metal foil from a food wrapper) has fallen into it and is shorting out some of the traces in the key matrix. If it isn't something blatantly obvious like that, it is time for a new keyboard.

just brew it! wrote:

It is time for a new keyboard.

https://www.amazon.com/ROSEWILL-Mechani ... 01NAMDRFM/
$50 delivered price for Cherry MX Brown seems like a bargain to me.

I fixed it. Somehow the keyboard got screwed up with turning off checking for signatures with drivers. A long convoluted way to install an outdated driver to still use another piece of equipment.

All I can say to that is: W. T. F?!??

That's some severe driver borkage. So when you did the wipe and reinstall, you reinstalled the problem driver before checking whether the Shift and W keys were working correctly again?

A driver that is intercepting and modifying keyboard input sounds dodgy to me. Almost malware-ish.

just brew it! wrote:

A driver that is intercepting and modifying keyboard input sounds dodgy to me. Almost malware-ish.

The fact that it requires a driver at all suggests that Logitech did something weird when they designed this thing. It's a bog-standard 104-key layout with three lights. Why that doesn't fit into one of the default HID templates is anyone's guess.

ludi wrote:

just brew it! wrote:

A driver that is intercepting and modifying keyboard input sounds dodgy to me. Almost malware-ish.

The fact that it requires a driver at all suggests that Logitech did something weird when they designed this thing. It's a bog-standard 104-key layout with three lights. Why that doesn't fit into one of the default HID templates is anyone's guess.

I assumed the driver was for some other device.

The driver was for a MonacoOPTIX colorimeter so I can calibrate my displays. I'm not sure why this was the problem, but I was pressing 7 on the restart screen instead of F7, but I am also unsure why the keyboard was still doing it before I even went back to pressing F7, but for some reason or another that's what fixed it.

toki wrote:

The driver was for a MonacoOPTIX colorimeter so I can calibrate my displays. I'm not sure why this was the problem, but I was pressing 7 on the restart screen instead of F7, but I am also unsure why the keyboard was still doing it before I even went back to pressing F7, but for some reason or another that's what fixed it.

Ah, maybe the driver it was doing a "hotkey" intercept?

ludi wrote:

toki wrote:

The driver was for a MonacoOPTIX colorimeter so I can calibrate my displays. I'm not sure why this was the problem, but I was pressing 7 on the restart screen instead of F7, but I am also unsure why the keyboard was still doing it before I even went back to pressing F7, but for some reason or another that's what fixed it.

Ah, maybe the driver it was doing a "hotkey" intercept?

It could be, I was just relieved to get back to proper because I just couldn't understand why it would be the only button that wouldn't work on the keyboard and nothing else was working to get it back to the way it should be working.