Thanks for the tips everyone!
Here's a few things:
- If you're overclocking _anything_ get more than a 430w PSU.
- I would consider having a separate SSD for the OS, and a quick mechanical disk for games and bulk data storage. If you want later you can add a second ssd for "frequently played" games.
I felt the same way about the power supply after looking at a few things. So I've decided to upgrade to the Rosewill Tachyon Series Tachyon 550W
for $75 after MIR. It's modular and platinum certified. Yes, its way more than the one I had, but its priced the same as some non-modular, lower wattage, lower 80-plus cert supplies. Feel much more comfortable with this one despite the higher price tag. Allows me to consider a Crossfire setup down the road if the microstuttering issues get resolved. Will be interesting to see how Crossfired 7850’s compare to next gen, or generation after next, cards.
The SSD will be my OS and high performance game drive. I have some spare mechanicals around the house that I can use for other stuff. I may be able to pick up a 60gb SSD down the road for just the OS.
Legally - probably not
Although it may still work if you call the MS activation phone line and tell that your "motherboard died" and you are "replacing" it with new one
I wouldn't bother with Vista, though - it can get a little bit... sluggish from time to time
So just get a new OS license, either Win7 or Win8 (whichever you personally prefer) - a $100 is not that much money to spend once a few years for a crucial piece of software.
Yeah, I felt the same after some research. Going with Windows 8. Buying the OS is my least favorite part of any new build.
"So I'm looking, very long term, to put together a gaming build since I'm not thrilled with the news I'm hearing about the next gen consoles."
Didn't you read about the PS4? Apparently it is supposed to have about the same jam as a radeon 7850.
Which is great for me I guess. I should, at a minimum, be able to keep up with PS4, and maybe Xbox 720, for a while by turning down some graphics settings.
what kinds of overclocks have you been able to get on it using your 3570K? Any issues with power or cooling?
I actually haven't gotten around to OCing my 3570K (sorry for any false hopes), but I have every reason to believe I could reach 4.3GHz at stock voltage.
1) For an "everyday overclock" many would not recommend increasing CPU voltages over stock. It increases heat output and will shorten the life-expectancy of your CPU.
2) With that "limitation" in place, there isn't much additional stress on the VRM. Most any motherboard will be able to achieve the same OC results at stock voltage. However, it's still a very good idea to get a board with VRM heatsinks if you want to OC...especially if you plan on slapping a tower-style CPU heatsink on.
3) Additional power phases become an advantage when you're pushing voltages above stock for a max OC. (sometimes a rediculous amount of phases for LN2 overclocking
) This type of OCing is aimed at producing a high benchmark number for epeen. If you're an "extreme" overclocker, the additional phases may be necessary, but like I said before, not so much for an everyday-stock-voltage overclock.
4) There are other differences between the Pro4-M and the P8Z77M-Pro besides power phases though. Weigh those differences to your needs.
How's Asrock's software?
I like their UEFI better than MSI's for my FM2 HTPC.
I haven't used Gigabyte's new UEFI yet, so I can't comment on that. See here for comparisons
between Asus, AsRock, MSI, and Gigabyte.
Yeah, I’m not looking to impress anyone. I just want to get as much “free” extra performance as I can without doing damage and 4.3ghz sounds like a great deal. I’m sure I’ll give a higher overclock a try just for kicks, but I don’t want to burn the machine out really early trying to get 10 more FPS out of Battlefield 3.
Looks like the Pro4 has pretty lame heatsinks while the Extreme4 has some slightly beefier ones. For peace of mind I may splurge and get the Extreme4 ATX version for $25 more. I don’t want to see smoke! Also thinking about adding a sound card and wireless card, so a few extra PCI and PCIe slots will give the graphics card some breathing room.
I read that massive AnandTech review last night. The Extreme4 seems like the best value overall, if a bit flimsier on the construction side.
Gaming: i5-3570k/Z77/212 Evo/Corsair 500R/16GB 1600 CL8/GB GTX 760-2GB/840 250gb, EVO 500gb, SG 3tb/Tachyon 650w/Win10
HTPC: i3 3225/H77/8gb g.skill 1.25v/1+2TB HDD/Asus BR/Silverstone GD05B/Antec 380w/Win10
Monitor: Acer Predator X34 Ultrawide 1440p