Personal computing discussed
Moderators: renee, JustAnEngineer
DancinJack wrote:You need to get DDR4 for Kaby Lake btw. 1600MHz is too slow to get the best out of that 7600K. Get something along the lines of 3000MHz.
PGleo86 wrote:DancinJack wrote:You need to get DDR4 for Kaby Lake btw. 1600MHz is too slow to get the best out of that 7600K. Get something along the lines of 3000MHz.
You'd really need new RAM not due to the speed of the old stuff, but due to the fact that none of these motherboards are DDR3 compatible. You would want to as well, since DDR4 is faster, and it's a nice bit of futureproofing as much as you can in PC hardware.
Korpz wrote:Can someone tell me what the main differences are between the MSI Z270 GAMING M3, PRO, PRO CARBON, M5, and M7. From what I can see there are no differences that will really affect me. Just looks like a bigger price tag and more tacky plastic. Additional/different ports. But do any of those really matter?
Korpz wrote:Can someone tell me what the main differences are between the MSI Z270 GAMING M3, PRO, PRO CARBON, M5, and M7.
JustAnEngineer wrote:What is it that you want to do with this new PC? A gaming PC built around the Core i7-7770K would be about 50% over your total. Which components can we downgrade from this list to meet your budget and performance requirements?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K ($346 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo ($30 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z270MX-Gaming 5 ($160 @ Amazon)
Memory: 2x8 GiB G.Skill DDR4-3000 ($110 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk Ultra II 480GB 2.5" SSD ($149 @ B&H)
Video Card: MSI Radeon RX 480 8 GiB Armor 8G OC ($220 @ B&H)
Case: Silverstone TJ08B-E MicroATX Mini Tower ($100 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic SSR-550RM ($70 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: LG WH14NS40 ($49½ @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($93 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Corsair STRAFE ($80 @ Newegg)
Mouse: Logitech G402 ($43 @ Amazon)
Speakers: Cyber Acoustics CA-3602 ($40 @ Amazon)
Total: $1490
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
roncat wrote:If you want a quiet CPU cooler, and something that won't interfere with using the memory slots, use something like:
CORSAIR Hydro Series H55
DPete27 wrote:While NVidia cards are slightly more power efficient at full tilt, AMD offers the ability to set a framerate limit in which the card will automatically throttle itself to only deliver up to the max fps set (see: Framerate Target Control and Chill) which can save gobs of power (and heat/noise) in less taxing games. I'm not aware of any such features for Nvidia cards aside from manually setting clock speed profiles for each game (which you can also do with AMD cards). In fact, NVidia cards try to OC themselves as much as possible by default.
DPete27 wrote:Power = heat = noise.
Chrispy_ wrote:I cannot endorse AOI watercoolers with anything less than a thick 240mm radiator.
The water being pumped around doesn't magically add cooling, it simply replaces the copper heatpipes in an air cooler. Until you start to get serious overclocks pushing more than 150W through the CPU, the 4 heatpipes in a typical air cooler are more than adequate to do the job of moving heat to the fins without the expense, noise, complexity, leak-risk and degradation-over-time that AIOs suffer from.
For small AIOs what it comes down to is "is the surface area of the radiator bigger than the surface area of a normal air-cooled tower heatsink?"
For anything less than a thick 240mm radiator the answer is no, so you're just paying a lot of money for:
- a cheap pump that can fail and will add noise to your system.
- some cheap hoses that can leak and destroy your whole system.
- a copper block and aluminium radiator that will degrade through galvanic (electrolytic) corrosion over the course of 6 months to 3 years.
- fan(s) linked to your CPU fan header, but a pump that isn't, so you can't monitor if the pump is starting to struggle or fail
Kretschmer wrote:DPete27 wrote:Power = heat = noise.
I agree, but you typically pick a system's thermal solutions to be as quiet and cool as possible at full load. If my system is already quiet and cool at full load, throttling in certain games isn't going to do much.
DPete27 wrote:Kretschmer wrote:DPete27 wrote:Power = heat = noise.
I agree, but you typically pick a system's thermal solutions to be as quiet and cool as possible at full load. If my system is already quiet and cool at full load, throttling in certain games isn't going to do much.
Quiet and cool as possible under full load doesn't mean a system cant be quieter and cooler under less than full load.
There will undoubtedly be games that require a GPU to run at full tilt to deliver desired framerates, and in that case, yes, throttling won't help you. But I think it's safe to say that most people play a variety of games with varying degrees of taxation on the GPU, and you obviously choose your GPU based on the most taxing games you'll be playing. Why have that $200-$400 monster you bought to play Tomb Raider/Deus Ex/etc churning out 1000 fps in games like LoL/Warframe/etc when even the fastest monitors can only display 240fps? I think it's a great idea for GPUs to be able to discern what "full load" really is.
Kretschmer wrote:I agree for large cases, but AIO is a much easier build for ITX and small MATX. My last build was relatively smooth with a 140mm AIO but would have been hell with a tower cooler.
Chrispy_ wrote:Kretschmer wrote:I agree for large cases, but AIO is a much easier build for ITX and small MATX. My last build was relatively smooth with a 140mm AIO but would have been hell with a tower cooler.
That's why things like this and this exist for!
The Thermalright in the particular is likely to do a better job than a 140mm AIO too, since not only does it have 6 heatpipes for up to 180W of cooling, it has the benefit of cooling the important components around the socket which are otherwise getting quite toasty in a cramped ITX case. It's something you don't have to worry about in a large, spacious ATX case, but once the airflow is hindered by a cramped motherboard shoehorned into a case too small for a tower, the VRMs and everything else around the socket with a heatsink starts to cook instead.
Not that a 140mm AIO is bad, just that it's still an extra pump, the added risk and the degeneration of the AIO over time. The air cooler will still be good for your next processor whilst the AIO will likely have gone bad by then.
Korpz wrote:Video Card: MSI Radeon RX 480 8 GiB Armor 8G OC ($220 @ B&H)
Korpz wrote:You guys pretty much got it. All my money is going into a good cpu, the i7-7700k and a mobo that can support it and allow me to do anything else. To be honest I don't overclock my stuff very much. A slight boost at best and then maybe a little harder a little farther down the road, but nothing intensive. I need to to be able to do everything. And I know that sounds unrealistic, but it only needs to be able to do everything right now. All the current games on best graphics, able to render video well, etc. The cpu and the mobo are the only parts that need to be future proof, well and the psu. Storage I can add more or upgrade later. memory I can upgrade or add more. Even the graphics card will make me happy just getting 2 or 3 years out of it. But as I've stated before I consider having to replace the cpu basically building an entirely new machine. Time to scrap it, salvage what you can and build a new system.
CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K ($346 @ Amazon)