mvp324 wrote:Welcome to the Tech Report!Hello all, I've been lurking for a while...
mvp324 wrote:That CPU cooler is likely to be incompatible with your "small" goal. The Hydro H80i is going to be easier to fit into a lot of small cases if you want to use an all-in-one water cooler. I have the similarly-sized Hydro H70 mounted at the back of my case. There are also some very effective and very compact air coolers like the Silverstone NT06-Pro that will fit into some tight mini-ITX, mini-DTX or micro-ATX cases.Want to build a system that can play high at 2560 x 1600. Want it to be quiet. Want it to be small.
CPU Cooler - CORSAIR Hydro H110
mvp324 wrote:I'm not wild about either of those. For micro-ATX, I'm very satisified with the excellent cooling in the Silverstone Temjin TJ08-E. The Rosewill Line-M is a bit smaller. The Sugo SG10 is a marvel of compactness. If you're looking for a horizontal case to fit into your media center, consider the Grandia GD05.
mvp324 wrote:It's only $170 for 16 GiB from the link that you posted. You can run into some really challenging clearance issues with DIMMs like those that have the large decorative heatsinks. This Crucial BLS2K8G3D1609ES2LX0 is just the opposite, being very low profile. It'll default to PC3-12800 at CAS 9 and 1.35 V when you first install it, but it also has an XMP profile for PC3-14900 speed at CAS 10.Memory - G.Skill Trident X Series 16 GB 32GB why must you be $500!
mvp324 wrote:Even though my case has room for a couple of regular 5¼" half-height optical drives, I'm using an adapter to use a slim optical drive and a 3½" card reader. Some of the really compact cases like the SG10 require that you use a slot-load slim optical drive since they lack half-height 5¼" drive bays.
some lunatic wrote:Slim-line optical drives aren't too hard to find and they won't break the bank. These laptop-oriented drives do tend to be a bit slower than regular half-height drives.
$59 or $98 Slim SATA tray-load Blu-ray burner
or $148 Slim SATA slot-load Blu-ray burner
or $29 Slim SATA tray-load DVD burner
or $69½ Slim SATA slot-load DVD burner
$9 or $8½ Slim SATA to desktop SATA data+power adapter
mvp324 wrote:What motherboard features do you want that would help us differentiate between that motherboard and one of these other Z87 micro-ATX options?Motherboard - $140 Asus Z87M-Plus
mvp324 wrote:This EVGA 03G-P4-2783-KR has a better cooler design. It will exhaust most of its massive heat load outside the case.Video Card - EVGA GTX 780
mvp324 wrote:I'm not convinced that this is as good a product as the Sound Blaster Z.Sound Card - ASUS Xonar DSX Never again turtle beach never again.
mvp324 wrote:If you're looking for a premium NIC, get a motherboard with the Intel i217V built in. Truthfully, today's Realtek RTL8111G works just fine.Network Card - Do they still make Killer Gaming NICs?
mvp324 wrote:I went with a SeaSonic SS-660XP². The 760-watt version is $140 this week.
mvp324 wrote:If this is a gaming PC, spend the $400 to $550 for a 27" WQHD 2560x1440 IPS LCD monitor or this one or even buy direct from Korea.Monitor - a TV or whatever monitor I have lying around
JustAnEngineer wrote:This EVGA 03G-P4-2783-KR has a better cooler design. It will exhaust most of its massive heat load outside the case.
vargis14 wrote:You might want to go with Cooler masters new 140xl AIO cooling loop since it features a pretty thick 140mm radiator that will fit perfectly in the rear of your case. It also cools a 4.4ghz 4770k 2 degrees cooler at 1200rpms/quiet mode vs the H-80i at max rpms. Once you spin the 140xl to max RPMs the temp difference goes up to 6c matching the performance of the corsair hH-100i on max speed.
http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/coo ... l=&start=2
Chrispy_ wrote:If you're not overclocking too far (and Haswell doesn't overclock that well) you are probably better off going for a good quality air cooler. At stock speeds they will likely be quieter than the pump and fan of an AIO water loop.
Chrispy_ wrote:Noctua stuff is my favourite but it seems to be quite expensive in the US. Coolermaster make good stuff and it's reasonably cheap in the US - look for either the older Hyper 212 EVO or the newer 412S - both are significantly quieter than closed-loop water coolers when you're not over clocking and the water coolers really only shine when you boost voltages beyond 1.25V - which is the point at which Haswell starts to get silly and inefficient anyway;
Chrispy_ wrote:You can have a cool, quiet, efficient air-cooled system that overclocks to 4.0GHz at stock voltage
You can have a hot, noisy, inefficient water-cooled system that's running at 4.5GHz at 1.35V
Chrispy_ wrote:Power use is based on the square of the voltage so the 1.35V overclock above generates more than double the heat for only 12% more performance. For gaming, the CPU is almost irrelevant anyway, so do yourself a favour and don't overclock very far. Your case temps will be lower and it'll help your graphics card cooler, which is by far the most important part of your system for gaming.
The PSU, well, I'd return for a Corsair AX860. No need, not at all, for that much wattage, and I wouldn't take a 'revalidated' unit. A bad PSU results in endless problems elsewhere.
Airmantharp wrote:My 650W Seasonic has handled an overclocked 2500k and a pair of mid-range GPUs (2xGTX670s and 2xHD6950's before that) without issue.
mvp324 wrote:That's the thing, this is supposed to be a NEW PSU, not a refurbished or slightly used PSU.
mvp324 wrote:Also with the application of TIM, why do you like the rice method vice the pea method?
mvp324 wrote:MS will stop providing support to Win 7 next year.
mvp324 wrote:the calc came out to 997 Watts.