Hmmmm I have a GS105 at home that's flaking out a little lately. How hard is it to recap these things? I'm still somewhat of a novice with soldering on machine assembled hardware, although I have a good bit of time under my belt working with a bread board.
Piece of cake, since the caps that need replacing are "old school" through-hole devices (not surface mount), and large enough that you don't need tweezers and a magnifying glass to work with them.
On the GS108 (I assume the GS105 is similar) there are six screws (two holding the case together and four holding the board in place). There are 5 electrolytic caps in there -- 2 1000uF ones and 3 330uF ones. I only replaced the 1000uF ones as the 330s were not bulging and I didn't have any suitable replacements for those anyway.
I used a 25 watt pencil-style soldering iron; a slightly higher wattage one would've probably worked better, as the power planes of the PCB act as heat sinks and make it somewhat difficult to melt the old solder.
Removing the old caps --
Electrolytic caps have a "+" and "-" side. Note the orientation of the old caps before removing them, as the replacements will need to be installed with the same polarity.
Apply heat to one of the capacitor leads from the underside of the board, while gently pushing on the top of the capacitor can on the same side of the can as the lead you're heating. When the solder softens, the other lead will bend and the one you're heating will pull partway out of the hole. Switch to the other lead, and repeat. After 2 or 3 cycles of this you'll have "walked" the capacitor out of the mounting holes.
Clear the holes of old solder using your soldering iron and a solder-sucker type tool.
Installing the new caps --
Put the leads through the holes, observing proper polarity. Push the leads all the way through so that the cap is flush with the PCB, and bend the leads apart slightly on the underside of the board to hold the cap in place while you solder.
Solder the new caps in place, trim the leads.
That's about it...