So what else should I be looking at..(
Pagey wrote:My parents had something similar happen several years ago. Dad was out of town on a business trip, which added to the "fun". So, my parents live on a 165ish acre cattle farm that mom's brother owns. Their yard, at the time, had several large red oaks that provided wonderful shade. One afternoon a very intense pop-up storm settled over the property, and the largest/tallest red oak closest to the house (approximately 20-25' from the living room windows) too a direct hit from a bolt. The top of the tree basically exploded. I've never quite seen anything like it. With dad out of town, I went out to check on mom, make sure the roof was good from all the large limbs on it, and see if mom needed anything/wanted to lock up and stay with us. When I got there (15 minute drive), she was testing out lights and other devices. So, she gets to the electric range in the kitchen...turns the knob for one of the eyes/elements...and the kitchen lights come on. We both give each other an instant WTF look. She turns the eye off...the lights go out. Turns the eye on...the lights come on. We had the electric co-op send a local linesman out, and he basically said everything on the outside checked out, but he could not make an assessment of anything past that/inside. The next day, a local electrician comes out and discovers that the main breaker at the top of the panel (I don't know the technical term, sorry) that would kill power and all the smaller/regular breakers below it was actually split. It was too dark that night to see it, but in the daylight you could see an obvious crack all the way down it. Now, how this was causing something crazy like the electric range knobs to turn on overhead lights, I don't claim to understand. But, I said all that to say: carefully inspect any/all breaker boxes/panels for such damage. Glad you are okay, and hope this helps a little.
superjawes wrote:Pagey wrote:That means you were either putting 240 V across the kitchen lights, or the range was only getting 120 V. In the latter case, I would expect some circuits in the house to be entirely nonfunctional.
just brew it! wrote:@Pagey - Other posters seem to be on the right track (ludi nailed it).
Electric stoves and other large appliances are typically 240V, and this voltage is obtained by wiring the stove across the two "hot" legs of a 120V split phase power system. Because of the way a split phase system is wired, if one of the phases gets fried (as appears to have happened with your parents' house), then turning on the stove would bridge the good phase to the bad phase (through the stove burner element). As long as the load on the bad phase is small relative to the stove, then that phase will draw power through the stove (at slightly below nominal voltage, due to the resistance of the heater element), while the stove will run at only a small fraction of its nominal power (since it is running on only one phase, and the current it can draw is limited by the resistance of the light bulbs). I imagine the stove barely even got warm (don't know if you checked).
On the Wikipedia page I linked, take a look at Figure 1. The lights were connected to V1, and the stove was connected to V1+V2. The lightning strike blew out V1 at the breaker box (which would've been wired between the transformer and the loads). Turning on the stove allows power to flow from V2, through the lights connected to V1, to ground.
liquidsquid wrote:FWIW, while adding lightning protection to a home is "expensive" replacing everything inside of a house is even more so (plus the risk of a damaged appliance setting a fire).
I would highly recommend getting lightning protection installed: lightning rods, proper grounding runs on all corners, and a whole house surge arrester. I have it on my house being on top of an exposed hill.
I have had to re-sharpen two rods since we lived in the house due to direct strikes melting off the tips. The only problems is 3 lost DSL modem/routers (phone line is not protected in the same way), and several tripped GFI breakers that were a simple re-set.
The trees around the house? Another matter.
Duct Tape Dude wrote:Out of curiosity, were any of your appliances hooked up to surge protectors?
dragontamer5788 wrote:The only way to protect against lightning strikes is to route the lightning elsewhere. Lightning rods can be hit by lightning because its cheaper to replace a lightning rod than to replace anything else.
ludi wrote:dragontamer5788 wrote:The only way to protect against lightning strikes is to route the lightning elsewhere. Lightning rods can be hit by lightning because its cheaper to replace a lightning rod than to replace anything else.
A point, though: while a direct stroke to the structure will blow up whatever it well pleases, an indirect strike to a nearby yard or even a lightning mast can sometimes cause induced potential or ground-rise potential to appear on the AC mains. A surge protector isn't a cure-all but it will help. The most reliable type isn't a power strip, though, it's a whole-house protector installed at the box. Unfortunately, a retrofit does require a spare 240V breaker position which many older installations do not have.
dragontamer5788 wrote:Duct Tape Dude wrote:Out of curiosity, were any of your appliances hooked up to surge protectors?
Surge protectors protect against surges in the electrical grid. Like 1000V surges or whatever.
A lightning strike has a potential of 300,000+ volts. In fact, lightning travels through OXYGEN to reach your house, no lol surge protector can protect against that. Oxygen is one of the best protectors against electricity on the planet, with an effective resistance exceeding multiple gigaohms per inch.
The only way to protect against lightning strikes is to route the lightning elsewhere. Lightning rods can be hit by lightning because its cheaper to replace a lightning rod than to replace anything else.
7700k/1080ti gaming rig = dead NIC
4670k/1050ti HTPC/server = dead NIC
8 port switch = no power, tested a different power brick too
8 port switch = 1 dead port <-- nope, all dead
PS3 fat "80gb" (320gb) with PS2 emulation = beeps, turns off
ASUS AC1300 RT-ACRH13 = no power
Kitchen Fridge/Freezer = killed the ice maker
TV and internet gateway = dead, new one should be at my doorstep now
Roku 55in TV = works, but it is blinking a light at me, hope it is just a "no internet" warning.
iPhone power brick = dead (I know... huge loss)