Mon Apr 08, 2013 10:02 am
As someone mentioned, a check-valve close to the outlet of the pump is usually normal practice for a regular pump, but not really required for a sump pump, since it can drain back into the sump.
Also I don't think I would want all that cruddy water stagnating in the pipes, the solids will settle out and could cause blockage.
Also with a check valve, any water that is left in the pipe that could be exposed to cold weather could freeze and crack your pipe, OR plug it and burn out your pump.
If you want to install a check valve anyway, good piping practice dictates that it should be at least 10 pipe diameters away from the outlet.
Your float switch is very important though, it should be set so there is at least 4 inches of water above the sump intake. This will help prevent vortexing causing the pump to bring in air.
No you didn't mention whether it is the electric motor, impeller or bearings which are failing? Usually a half decent sump pump set up properly should last years.
One thing to look for would be a cast iron impeller, and sealed ball bearing all through the unit. Some electric motors come with sleeves and have to lubricated regularly.
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