MSI teams up with EK Waterblocks to chill the GTX 1080

EKWB will happily sell you a full-coverage waterblock for your reference GTX 1080 already, but not everybody wants to go to the trouble of tearing apart a perfectly good card to slap a waterblock on. Folks who want a card they can plug into their custom loops right out of the box now have an answer with MSI's Sea Hawk EK X GeForce GTX 1080.

The EK block on the Sea Hawk EK X gets a little MSI flash with a dragon logo and a company nameplate. MSI uses a backplate on the card that looks fairly similar to the GTX 1080 Gaming X we saw at Computex. It's also retaining the dual-slot mounting bracket from that card.

MSI is tight-lipped about the other details of the card at this time, but the six- and eight-pin power connectors visible in the product shots we do have suggests the card has a beefed-up power delivery subsystem compared to the Founders Edition GTX 1080 card. Stock clocks shouldn't much matter on this product, anyway—if you're putting a GTX 1080 under water, we hope you're planning to overclock it to its limits. No pricing info was made available as part of MSI's announcement, but we'd expect this card to carry a significant premium over other custom-cooled GTX 1080s.

Comments closed
    • NoOne ButMe
    • 3 years ago

    the board looks like it matches identically with the Gaming X version, if anyone wants to see the PCB.
    [url<]http://cdn.videocardz.com/1/2016/05/MSI-GTX-1080-GAMING-X-PCB.jpg[/url<]

    • Chrispy_
    • 3 years ago

    MSI just couldn’t resist ruining a beautiful acrylic waterblock with their stupid dragon.

    I also don’t believe the path of the coolant forms the second half of the dragon logo. I believe it forms a [i<]stupid[/i<].

    • Anovoca
    • 3 years ago

    First impression is that this thing is ugly. Further inspection I realize it is kinda clever and kinda want to see it with black coolant actively pumping through it.

    Edit: Clarification, it is clever in that the path of the coolant forms the second half of the dragon logo. I will stick to silent air coolers myself but if custom liquid solutions are your thing, this one is certainly unique.

      • Waco
      • 3 years ago

      Colored coolant is stupid. That is all. πŸ™‚

        • thanatos355
        • 3 years ago

        Blasphemer!

          • Waco
          • 3 years ago

          I don’t enjoy cleaning gunk out of blocks, pumps, etc. If you want to, go ahead. πŸ™‚

            • slowriot
            • 3 years ago

            As to opposed to what? If you were smart about your dye selection then you shouldn’t need to do any additional cleaning outside of the once or twice a year loop cleans most people do anyway.

            I have seen some “nightmare” scenarios out there but those often seem to come down to a person not being careful or thorough when selecting dyes.

            • f0d
            • 3 years ago

            loop cleans?

            i just use demineralized water and silver coil – never needed a loop clean let alone cleaning it once or twice a year

            its worked well for over a decade of watercooling for me

            • slowriot
            • 3 years ago

            Are you trying to imply you haven’t cleaned your loop in 10 years?

            First, it wasn’t my intention to imply you *must* clean your loop every year. I know many people who only do it when they swap a component which can be 2-3 years in between and never have problems. However, in my experience most people who watercool enjoy taking apart their loop, cleaning it, and putting it back together. I do. Watercooling is done primarily as a hobby after all.

            • f0d
            • 3 years ago

            [quote<]Are you trying to imply you haven't cleaned your loop in 10 years?[/quote<] no of course not, i was attempting to say i have been watercooling computers for over 10 years and during that time i havnt cleaned my loop other than times where it may have been contaminated - like when it was disassembled and might have been contaminated from the crap in the air once it is built it doesnt get touched until i add more rads or i change computer hardware and the loops needs changing for it i like to build loops but i just build another pc for me or a friend or something instead of rebuilding my own

            • slowriot
            • 3 years ago

            Why do you people start off with “never had a problem” and then you’re talking about times you’ve had a contaminated loop?

            • Waco
            • 3 years ago

            Are you being dense on purpose? He said he only cleaned it out when he thought he might have contaminated it.

            • slowriot
            • 3 years ago

            I’m sorry but if you think its contaminated chances are you think that because its showing signs. And further, he started this with “loop cleans?” and “never had an issue” as if he’s… never had issues and then he admits to having issues.

            It doesn’t add up.

            You’ve both been disingenuous about your experiences.

            • Waco
            • 3 years ago

            No, that’s not what he said (nor what I said).

            I clean my loop when I take it apart. This is an easy task, since there’s generally no gunk in it. I’ve never cleaned my loop otherwise, and I have gone almost 2 years between cleanings to no ill effect.

            He said he only cleans when he suspects he contaminated it (by taking it apart). Not that he had crap in the loop.

            Stop trying to make something out of nothing. Distilled water will a silver coil doesn’t require any regular maintenance besides topping off (from evaporation). I’ve never torn apart a loop to clean it except when I used dye, and that lasted less than 3 months before it affected temperatures.

            • slowriot
            • 3 years ago

            So you’re telling me his only reason to suspect he had contaminated his loop was that he took apart? That makes no sense. He either a) saw signs of indicating contamination or b) did what you said and cleaned his loop for no reason.

            Come on now….

            • Waco
            • 3 years ago

            What part of his post is hard for you to understand? That’s exactly what he (and I) are saying.

            I’ve never dismantled a loop purely to clean it with the exception of the one time I ran dye and immediately regretted it when temperatures sucked within a few months.

            Stop trying to make this something that it isn’t.

            EDIT: How many years have you been watercooling? How many loops have [i<]you[/i<] taken apart due to gunk in them? How many of [i<]those[/i<] had dye in the loop?

            • f0d
            • 3 years ago

            i thought your would have understood when i said “crap in the air”

            when my loops are built and running i dont need to clean them but if i do a computer upgrade that requires me to change the hose length or if i change my case which also requires a change in hose length or if i get some different watercooling hardware then i will need to change and drain the system

            now
            because i have to change and drain the system (not because of contaminants but because the water cooling system has to be changed) it exposes the system to air and air has all sorts of nasty stuff in it that can contaminate your loop so i clean it as thoroughly as possible before putting the distilled water into it again

            so im not cleaning and dismantling it because it was contaminated – i contaminated it because i had to dismantle it so i had to clean it

            clear enough?

            • Waco
            • 3 years ago

            I don’t like tearing mine apart unless I have to. Silver coil + distilled water is all I ever run, and I probably only tear it down once a year to change parts / upgrade.

            There’s no benefit, and several drawbacks, to running crap in your coolant like dyes. The opaque dyes are by far the worst with impingement blocks, but all dyes will break down into crap over time.

            • slowriot
            • 3 years ago

            Are you just being dense on purpose? Because I’m fairly certain you’re capable of knowing people use dyes for the visual effect while simultaneously you personally may not care. Hence, there is a benefit… that you don’t care about. Amazing!

            Drawbacks? Yes, if you never cleared the loop out you’ll run into issues. Otherwise, like I said… most people are clearing their loop out on a yearly basis. It isn’t some giant effort additional effort needed beyond that, just a thorough clean.

            • Waco
            • 3 years ago

            You’ve never had to deal with an impingement block and dye I guess. It can get pretty nasty even in the span of a few weeks to months, and it’s not fun disassembling every single component just to scrub them. In the worst of cases the crap can actually damage pumps.

            • ColeLT1
            • 3 years ago

            If you use the right fluid, it works better than distilled water, biocide, and water wetter. That combo left a film in my loop after 1 year (edit 2yrs), changed hoes and cleaned the block (inside) with brasso. Switched to black fesser one, 7 years ago (edit 6yrs). Rebuilt it last year with a ek block swap, my dtek look shiny and perfect, so did my tygon hoses. Put the same fluid back in cause it works.

            Also, all copper/brass, no aluminum in my setup.

            • Waco
            • 3 years ago

            I’ve heard that even that stuff will gum up with a real impingement block. Which Dtek block do you have? I didn’t think any of them were particularly restricting.

            • ColeLT1
            • 3 years ago

            I was using the Dtek fusion (v1), I can go take a picture of what it looks like taken apart, uncleaned right now, its in my closet. I got the EK just to do the naked mount, nothing was wrong with it.

            I dug up the orders.

            10/15/08 Loop parts were bought (and still on the same parts minus hoses and block) (c2q/Xeon x3350). Distilled water and PT_Nuke Biocide, Fluid was milky looking, really it was junk on the inside wall of the hoses.

            9/20/10 Feser One – UV BLACK Illusion – F1 – Coolant (I7 950 swap), cleaned rez/block replaced hoses.

            4/29/12 and did a distilled water flush (3570k swap) and used the other half of the same bottle.

            8/7/15 block change and bought the same fluid (4790k).

            My rez is velcroed down, and I can tilt it/move it to fill it up, and its clean, no deposits or like a haze where the fluid line was, the acrylic has some superficial spider cracks but that is it.

            • Waco
            • 3 years ago

            Ah, that’s my old block. :). It doesn’t beat up most dyes since it’s an ultra-low restriction design.

            I don’t use biocide additives, just a silver coil.

            • ColeLT1
            • 3 years ago

            Great block though. The 775 mount pretty much fit 1150/1151/1155 but it wasn’t perfect, always kept it not quite tightened down, to not pry on the board.

            • Waco
            • 3 years ago

            Oh yeah, I’m keeping mine for future builds. I modified another bracket to have a hard mount, it worked great!

          • Anovoca
          • 3 years ago

          Jeeze thanatos look what you started! ^ I hope you’re happy πŸ™

          :p

            • thanatos355
            • 3 years ago

            I am indeed. πŸ™‚

            And to think, I only posted it to be cute. What with all the RGB/color craze in the industry. πŸ˜€

            • Chrispy_
            • 3 years ago

            Speaking of RGB/colour craze – are any of you watercoolers taken in by this seemingly pointless hard tubing. I assume it offers no performance gain over half-inch Tygon/Norprene lab tubing?

            My issue is that It looks cool if it’s done well, but getting all the bend radii correct and having everything aligned so that everything is perpendicular must be very tricky. My low-level OCD would never be satisfied with 89Β° angles and things that are slightly askew. Given that component changes alter the relative position of things in the loop, you’d have to redo all that work every time you change parts too, right?

            • Waco
            • 3 years ago

            It’s an aesthetic thing, nothing more. As a rule, I don’t like hard lines because they’re such a pain in the ass to work with.

            • f0d
            • 3 years ago

            hard tubing does look nice but pretty much everything else about it is horrible

            • Chrispy_
            • 3 years ago

            OK, so it’s a visual fad that’s as stupid as I though it was. Thanks!

            I’ll stick with Tygon, if I can ever be bothered to custom loop again.

        • Anovoca
        • 3 years ago

        [troll] You need it clear so you can back-light the liquid with RBG LEDs!!!!!! [/troll]

        • chΒ΅ck
        • 3 years ago

        It’s helpful with detecting leaks

          • Waco
          • 3 years ago

          If it’s leaking so slightly that you can’t use paper towels to detect it…it’s not enough of a leak to worry about. πŸ™‚

        • f0d
        • 3 years ago

        100% agree

        demineralzied water + silver coil is all i have ever used – i have had some systems untouched for 2+ years and only changed the water because i upgraded the system or changed cases or something

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