Bargain basement: a latest-gen iPad for $249 and much, much more

  • Apple's WDDC was yesterday, and keeping with that theme (by pure chance, really) our leading deal today is the iPad 32 GB with Wi-Fi (2018, latest model). This speedy, practical tablet has a pretty 2048×1536 display and is powered by an Apple A10 Fusion quad-core SoC with four CPU cores in a 2+2 arrangement and PowerVR Series7XT Plus graphics. The 2 GB of RAM might feel a little tight, but in yours truly's experience with his own iPad Air 2, that's more than fine for iOS. Right now Walmart wants but $249 for this nice tablet in gray, silver, or gold finishes.

  • Next up, a positively gorgeous display that can fight on two fronts. The Aorus AD27QD is a 27" monitor with a 2560×1440 IPS panel capable of hitting a 144 Hz refresh rate. That's serious gamer cred already, but get this, the 10-bit panel's color gamut can cover a whopping 95% of the DCI-P3 space. That's more than good enough for video and photography work in your free time. The included stand offers swivel, pivot, tild, and height adjustments, and the asking price is just $539.99 at Newegg with the promo code EMCTBTW25.

  • This wouldn't be a 2019 deals post without some RAM, so here we go. The G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB dual-channel kit with 3600 MT/s DIMMs is both capacious and darn fast. The timings are set to 19-20-20-40. The heatsinks are red and there's no RGB LED lighting, but jeez, at just $159.99 at Newegg, who cares?

  • It's time for a c-c-combo. The Core i5-9600K is one sweet (and unlocked) mid-range CPU with six cores capable of hitting 4.6 GHz. That makes for one mean gaming machine, and the current deal has this chip going out the door with an Intel 660p 512 GB NVMe SSD. Newegg will hand you both items for $312.98, or $15 off the regular total.

  • Next up, a great all-round laptop. The Asus VivoBook Slim (S530FN-BH73) is a 15.6" laptop with a thin-bezel 1920×1080 display. Inside its thin chassis sits an Intel Core i7-8656U processor, a four-core, eight-thread affair with a 4.6 GHz turbo. The chip is served by 8 GB of RAM, while a combo storage setup with a 256 GB SSD and a 1 TB hard drive offers more than enough room for nearly any task. You can do some light gaming on this machine, too, thanks to the Nvidia GeForce MX150 graphics card. Dual-band 802.11ac Wi-Fi and a Type-C USB port round out the specs list. Newegg is selling this machine for just $799.99.

  • The final item today should go nicely into your living room, or perhaps an extra-fancy gaming setup. We're talking about the Pioneer VSX-933 7.2 receiver. This box o' watts can push 80 W per stereo pair and supports, well, everything. There's DTS:X and Dolby Atmos, all the HDR specs you can think of (HDR10, HLG, BT.2020), Dolby Vision compatibility, and multiple types of phase alignment functionality. Additionally, you get built-in Chromecast support, DTS Play-Fi, and about a hundred other alphabet-soup standards. The price reads just $239.99 at Newegg.
Comments closed
    • ronch
    • 1 month ago

    Speaking of bargains, check this out:

    [url<]https://edition.cnn.com/2019/06/05/tech/apple-monitor-expensive-intl-scli/index.html[/url<] Too cheap to pony up a cool grand for the stand?? Don't fret, because according to the article, "The stand is optional: Mac Pro users could technically lean a monitor against the computer itself instead." Oh gee thanks for thinking about us poor sacks, Apple!!

    • Rakhmaninov3
    • 1 month ago

    *the Earth shuddered and the firmament flickered*

    I just made my first evar Apple purchase.

    I’ve got a gold-en tab-let!

    My Note 9 didn’t come in gold so I finally get to restore my tradition of having a ridiculous-looking portable. Thank you, fruit people!

      • MOSFET
      • 1 month ago

      Those base model iPads are really sweet devices for the price. I admit I’m a longtime Windows user, and was a longtime Android user, but the 2017 and 2018 base iPads are just great deals, and really smooth gadgets. Fast too.

      FYI – I actually prefer a stand for my iPads rather than a clamshell or case. Mine is from NavePoint.

        • DancinJack
        • 1 month ago

        Full on agree.

        A brand new iPad for 249 is an amazing deal, if you have use for it.

        • Rakhmaninov3
        • 1 month ago

        Cool! Thank for the info. Seems pretty slick so far.

    • rahulahl
    • 1 month ago

    I am interested in the 32GB memory. I plan on buying a Ryzen 3900x when it releases.
    Do you guys reckon this is a good option to go with that CPU? Or is it important to aim for a lower latency?

    Also this memory seems to have not so good reviews with people struggling to make it work at advertised speeds. Gskill seems to just say that it isn’t designed not advertised to run on Ryzen CPUs.

      • LoneWolf15
      • 1 month ago

      Make sure you check G.Skill’s compatibility chart. G.Skill is very clear about what RAM kits are compatible with Ryzen boards, and it seems that a lot of RAM is AMD-specific in the current generation. G.Skill has a number of kits that are specifically targeted to Ryzen boards; select the board you want to use from their compatibility charts and they’ll give you a RAM list.

        • DoomGuy64
        • 1 month ago

        The reviews say it is hit and miss depending on your board. You can alternatively buy normal high spec kits, and it will work fine, as well as being cheaper. It’s the budget ram you need to avoid, and also junk boards with old bios. The boards that are well built and have up to date bios will work fine. It also helps to check the reviews to see if people have the ram working on AMD systems, if so, go for it. That or you could pay more for the certified stuff, but the ram speeds still depend on the board.

          • MOSFET
          • 1 month ago

          B-die while you still can!

      • MOSFET
      • 1 month ago

      It’s hard to say. I have two Ryzen 5 1600 + X370 setups at home. One has G.Skill Fortis 16GB DIMMs (I have 4x 16GB DIMMs but neither system is stable with 4 DIMMs populated at ANY ram speed, even down to 1866) and it is questionably stable. G.Skill claims that Fortis is designed for AMD and Aegis is designed for Intel, and yes I know that’s BS – they’re exactly the same. The other has 2x16GB Mushkin DIMMs and it is [i<]more[/i<] stable, but not what I would call rock solid. Run enough VMs, whether it's ESXi or Windows + VMware Workstation, and it's gonna crash with a memory management error. I have no idea if this will help, but next time I'm buying RAM for Ryzen I will just pay more for Crucial.

        • anotherengineer
        • 1 month ago

        Does crucial always use micron chips on its sticks?? I mean I would assume they would, but one can never be sure about things nowadays.

      • Amien
      • 1 month ago

      Try to stick to the FlareX or TridentZ Neo (look for ‘TZRX’ at the end of other SKUs) product lines when going with G.skill for Ryzen. As the others have pointed out, check compatibility lists(both board+RAM) before purchase.

      That said, current gen doesn’t seem as picky as first gen so you should be fine for the most part.

      • Goty
      • 1 month ago

      3600 MHz @ 19-20-20-40 is a hint that these are likely using Hynix CJR chips, which actually tend to do pretty well on Ryzen, but nobody knows yet how the new memory controller will behave making buying any kit for the new CPUs kind of a shot in the dark.

      • mudcore
      • 1 month ago

      Personally I would be waiting until the Ryzen 3000 chips start shipping and memory capability, performance, etc. gets a look at from independent outlets. Many issues with getting the right “AMD compatible” chips may change with Ryzen 3000.

        • K-L-Waster
        • 1 month ago

        ^^This^^.

        Buying RAM based on what happened with the previous chipsets assumes that it reacts the same way to RAM as they did. It might, or it might be more forgiving, or it might have completely different idiosyncrasies.

    • Waco
    • 1 month ago

    Wow, home theater receiver spec sheets have become crap. There’s no all channels driven spec for that Pioneer. Based on the power supply it appears that it *might* be able to drive 40-50 watts per channel, but who knows at what THD or frequency range.

      • derFunkenstein
      • 1 month ago

      I wouldn’t buy a new receiver right now anyhow. I’m waiting for eARC-capable receivers and TVs to become more plentiful before replacing my aged 1080p-only Sony receiver. No doubt the Chromecast support is audio-only at this price range, too.

        • Usacomp2k3
        • 1 month ago

        For a receiver, eARC only helps if you are using the TV as the multi-input source and the “receiver” as a decoder/amplifier. For people that buy receiver,s you should have all the inputs go to that and the video output to the TV/monitor/projector, in which case ARC or even eARC are pretty useless.

          • derFunkenstein
          • 1 month ago

          Much more important (to me) than that is the fact that eARC transmits more codecs than just DTS and Dolby Digital 5.1. It’s also been very much standardized so that eARC implementations shouldn’t vary as much from manufacturer to manufacturer.

            • Usacomp2k3
            • 1 month ago

            …which would only be of any use if you are connecting your devices straight to the TV and then having the audio go to the receiver.

            EDIT: The other case would be if the TV is your source, which I guess for some people it is. I have always strongly recommended buying a STB (AppleTV, Fire, Roku, etc) and having the TV be a dumb monitor. It’s much cheaper to upgrade the STB than it is the TV to stay with current tech.

            • derFunkenstein
            • 1 month ago

            Also, CEC with ARC allows you to turn on and off the receiver and adjust the volume with the TV’s remote. I can’t do that with my Sony receiver connected via optical out. Also, my TV is a source because it has a Roku built in.

            I very much want to replace my receiver, too. Both Dolby 5.1 and DTS lag behind the video regardless of whether the TV passes audio over ARC or via optical, and it also affects devices directly connected to the receiver. It makes me crazy. eARC requires ALLM, so games will be able to force the receiver into a low-latency mode automatically.

            • LostCat
            • 1 month ago

            VRR makes connecting to the TV the preferred option. I won’t buy any kit that doesn’t do eARC.

            • derFunkenstein
            • 1 month ago

            VRR is part of the HDMI 2.1 spec. So is eARC. So getting a receiver that’s 100% HDMI 2.1 compliant should suffice. 😆

            [url<]https://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hdmi_2_1/index.aspx[/url<]

            • LostCat
            • 1 month ago

            It is possible. I’ll have to see how well it works as such. I have a hard time trusting tech before I’ve even used it. :p

            Which will take a while, my budget is on razor blades at the moment.

          • kurazarrh
          • 1 month ago

          I still find ARC to be handy to avoid “5000-remote Syndrome,” a chronic disease whereby the afflicted spend 90% of their time trying to figure out which remote goes to which device. I have an Onkyo, and I can run 98% of its functions using my TV’s remote. The only thing I can’t control is the second speaker zone (set up with speakers in other places in the house so my wife can listen to music in every room).

          • Vaughn
          • 1 month ago

          I picked up a Denon AVRS740H about a month ago and very happy with it.

          Also use a Logitech Harmony Ultimate Home with it, CEC & ARC work great.

      • morphine
      • 1 month ago

      Perhaps, but a) not a lot of people will actually use all channels, b) it’s $240.

        • Waco
        • 1 month ago

        Agreed, but my point was more that they don’t even bother to include the spec any more. Maybe it’s because nobody cares, but I think it’s more due to people seeing “80 watts per channel” and not thinking beyond that. Manufacturers know almost nobody notices, so that’s what we get.

      • cygnus1
      • 1 month ago

      I honestly gave up on surround sound being good/reliable years ago, so these receivers are just overkill amps. I prefer my simple sound bar. Just too much tweaking to have consistent, comfortable volume in every home theater setup I’ve ever seen, in my own or in others. There’s just too much variability in surround mixes between different movies, tv shows, streaming services, etc. You get it tweaked for one set of content, then play something different and some part of the sound is either too loud or too quiet. Just not worth the hassle. Give me stereo.

        • general_tux
        • 1 month ago

        I completely disagree. To me, surround sound adds so much to the experience. Given the same total budget, I would rather have a small TV with decent surround sound than a larger TV and sound bar. I have never had the hassles you are describing. To each their own I guess.

          • MOSFET
          • 1 month ago

          I’m a stereo fan, but with floorstanding speakers rather than soundbar. I’ll use a good soundbase for secondary setup, though.

            • general_tux
            • 1 month ago

            I’m a big fan of floorstanding stereo speakers for music. But for any content with 5.1+ channels, I will not choose to go back to just stereo.

            I will admit though that I do own a soundbar as well, but is a “5.1” setup with two small satellite rears and a sub. While the sound quality is decent, it has been nothing but a headache compare to my receiver. I have had to send the soundbar in for a warranty replacement once already and the replacement shows signs of the same failure. But, it was purchased for a secondary setup in a small room, and for that, it is adequate (when it works).

          • cygnus1
          • 1 month ago

          Maybe I’m just super picky. But I just can’t stand when I have to crank the volume to hear dialogue and then get my eardrums blown out when some background music starts up or something explodes… I remember some content having such a horrible surround mix that I could never get it to sound good and just couldn’t even watch the thing. And for most movies the surround mix does NOT add much of anything to the experience. Sure maybe you get some content where they actually engineer it correctly, but after having to drop to stereo so often to deal with the BS of garbage mixes, I eventually just gave up on it. The minimal improvement in quality is just not worth the headache.

            • general_tux
            • 1 month ago

            You may be just picky, but that’s OK. For the last couple decades (boy time files) I have kept the center channel mix slightly higher than the rest (+2 on my current receiver if I remember right), which has helped to ensure dialogue is understandable. I’ve also use the night mode on my receiver a few times a year to dial back the background when the mix has been bad on action movies. To me the benefits of receiver, like a lot more quantity and type of inputs, higher power output, calibration mics, secondary zone support, etc. are well worth it. Plus, it can always revert back to stereo with the push of a button on the remote.

      • CScottG
      • 1 month ago

      -per channel, 7 channels at 8 ohms: a little over 10 watts per channel, though the front two (L & R) likely have a bit more, and the rest a bit less.

      It’s actually very usable IF you use the unit’s 100 Hz high-pass crossover and also use 1 or more powered “sub”woofers – assuming a decent sensitivity for those channels (at least 85 db 1 meter 8 ohms 2.83 volts).

      I have an older VSX LX101 – basically the same thing. All my channels are the same and are a bit more efficient (around 91 db) with a 100 Hz high-pass setting with the two sub-out to a Behringer KM1700 powering on one channel: 12 bass-shakers; and the other channel – subwoofer. Both of those loads are supposedly 4 ohms (though they aren’t really – it’s just their spec’ed average), and each are provided 800 watts at 4 ohms.

      The really strange thing to me is the volume control setting: it goes well past -0 db (..though for good movie-viewing the volume is usually set at about 0db). I think it goes up to at least +20db (..but that’s way to loud).

Pin It on Pinterest

Share This