TR’s Summer 2012 system guide

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Summer is here at last. For most people, that probably means sunglasses, chilled cocktails with little umbrellas in them, and roasting under the hot sun at a trendy vacation spot. It probably means spending long days outside and short nights recovering from extensive drinking and partying. And this week in particular, it probably means fireworks—lots of them.

For us geeks, though, this is more likely an occasion to draw the blinds, crank up the air conditioning, and immerse ourselves in some of the season’s hottest games. We’d rather keep our skin a translucent shade of white than miss out on, say, the new Skyrim expansion, Max Payne 3, or exciting indie titles like Quantum Conundrum.

In a nod to our geeky brethren, we’ve refreshed our system guide to account for the latest releases and price fluctuations in the ever-changing hardware market. Among other changes, we’ve made our sub-$1,000 Sweet Spot rig faster, and we’ve outfitted our decked-out Editor’s Choice config with a higher-capacity solid-state drive. We’ve even included a brand-new config, the Next-Gen Console, which packs a quad-core Ivy Bridge CPU and a Radeon HD 7850 graphics card inside a diminutive Mini-ITX enclosure—and can be configured to fulfill home-theater duties in addition to showing off the eye candy in the latest games.

Rules and regulations

Before we get into our component recommendations, we should explain our methodology a little bit. Before that, though, a short disclaimer: this is a component selection guide, not a PC assembly guide or a performance comparison. If you’re seeking help with the business of putting components together, we have a handy how-to article just for that. If you’re after reviews and benchmarks, might we suggest heading to our front page and starting from there.

Over the next few pages, you’ll see us recommend and discuss components for four sample builds. Those builds have target budgets of $600, $900, $1,500, and around $3,000. Within each budget, we will attempt to hit the sweet spot of performance and value while mentally juggling variables like benchmark data, our personal experiences, current availability and retail pricing, user reviews, warranty coverage, and the manufacturer’s size and reputation. We’ll try to avoid both overly cheap parts and needlessly expensive ones. We’ll also favor components we know first-hand to be better than the alternatives.

Beyond a strenuous vetting process, we will also aim to produce balanced configurations. While it can be tempting to settle on a $50 motherboard or a no-name power supply just to make room for a faster CPU, such decisions are fraught with peril—and likely disappointment. Similarly, we will avoid favoring processor performance at the expense of graphics performance, or vice versa, keeping in mind that hardware enthusiasts who build their own PCs tend to be gamers, as well.

Now that we’ve addressed the how, let’s talk about the where. See that “powered by Newegg.com” logo at the top of the page? Newegg sponsors our system guides, and more often than not, it will double as our source for component prices. However, Newegg has no input on our editorial content nor sway over our component selections. If we want to recommend something it doesn’t carry, we’ll do just that.

We think sourcing prices from a huge online retailer gives us more realistic figures, though—so much so that we quoted Newegg prices long before this guide got a sponsor. Dedicated price search engines can find better deals, but they often pull up unrealistically low prices from small and potentially unreliable e-tailers. If you’re going to spend several hundred (or thousand) dollars on a PC, we think you’ll be more comfortable doing so at a large e-tailer with a proven track record and a decent return policy. That vendor doesn’t have to be as big as Newegg, but it probably shouldn’t be as small as Joe Bob’s Discount Computer Warehouse, either.

The Econobox
Because speed doesn’t have to cost a fortune

The Econobox may be the baby of the bunch, but it can handle a little bit of everything, including modern games in all their glory. We haven’t scraped the bottom of the bargain bin or cut any corners, resulting in a surprisingly potent budget build.

Component Item Price
Processor Intel Core i3-2120 3.3GHz $124.99
Motherboard Gigabyte GA-H77-DS3H $99.99
Memory Crucial 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3-1333 $24.99
Graphics MSI Radeon HD 7770 $124.99
Storage Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB $94.99
Asus DRW-24B1ST $18.99
Audio Integrated $0
Enclosure Antec Three Hundred $54.99
Power supply
Antec EarthWatts Green 380W $44.99
Total $588.92

Processor

AMD’s desktop Trinity APUs are due out soon, but they’re not here yet. Right now, our options in this price range still consist of Intel’s Core i3-2120, AMD’s A8-series APUs, and AMD’s FX-4100.

And really, it’s not much of a contest.

The A8-3870 may have an unlocked multiplier and better integrated graphics than the Core i3-2120, but it also has lower CPU performance, and its power envelope is quite a bit higher—100W, up from the i3-2120’s 65W TDP. Higher power envelopes mean more heat and more noise, and we’re fans of neither. Losing Llano’s Radeon GPU is regrettable, but since we’re equipping this system with a discrete graphics card, the processor’s integrated GPU is largely irrelevant.

The FX-4100 has neither integrated graphics nor a tight power envelope, and we’re not thrilled with its 95W TDP. The chip’s performance doesn’t appear to be any better than the Core i3-2100, either. We’re happier with the Core i3 as a primary pick, but we’ve still included the FX-4100 in our alternatives on the next page.

Motherboard

The H67 motherboard we used to recommend for this build has vanished, as have most other motherboards powered by the last-gen platform hub. They’ve been replaced by mobos featuring the new H77 Express chipset. What’s the difference? The H67 and H77 have very similar features, really, but the latter adds native USB 3.0 connectivity.

For this latest iteration of the Econobox, we’re going with the H77-based GA-H77-DS3H from Gigabyte. This mobo has a full ATX layout, can tap into the Core i3’s integrated graphics (if need be), and has two 6Gbps SATA ports. Two USB 3.0 ports can be found at the rear, and there are internal headers for two more. Gigabyte saw fit to include dual physical PCI Express x16 slots, as well, although the lower one has only four lanes of connectivity running to it. The GA-H77-DS3H also comes with Gigabyte’s new-and-improved UEFI interface. Other boards may have better fan speed controls, but not at this price and with all these other features.

Memory

Memory prices seem to have hit rock-bottom, so putting 4GB of RAM into the Econobox is a no-brainer. The cheapest 4GB kit we feel comfortable recommending this time around hails from Crucial. It’s rated for operation at 1333MHz on 1.5V, and Crucial covers the kit with a lifetime warranty.

Graphics

We had some complaints about the Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition when we reviewed it in February. While the card achieved solid performance, consumed little power, and produced little noise with the stock cooler, its $159 asking price made the card an unappealing proposition compared to cheaper, slightly faster models from the previous generation.

Things have changed since then. MSI’s Radeon HD 7770 sells for a penny under $125, and it comes with a chunky dual-slot cooler, whose large fan should be able to move plenty of air without making much noise. Being part of AMD’s latest GPU series, the 7770 also gives you two features that older Radeons do not: AMD’s VCE block, which can speed up video transcoding in supported apps, and ZeroCore Power, which saves energy by shutting off power to most of the GPU when the display goes to sleep.

Storage
Recent evidence suggests hard drive prices aren’t going to return to normal for a while—maybe not for a couple of years. Even though the impact of last year’s Thailand floods has abated, hard drive makers seem content to charge higher prices for their products. That’s not good for budget shoppers, and it’s not good for the Econobox.

In light of the disappointing news, we’ve decided to bite the bullet and outfit our budget system with Samsung’s Spinpoint F3 1TB hard drive once again. This drive seems to have slipped just under the $100 mark, though there’s no telling if it will stay there. That’s not an ideal price, but all things considered, we think it’s a better deal than the 500GB version we recommended last time. If we were building the Econobox for ourselves, we’d pay the $30 premium for double the storage capacity.

The Econobox doesn’t need a fancy optical drive, so we’ve selected a basic Asus model with more than a thousand five-star ratings on Newegg. The DRW-24B1ST offers DVD burning speeds up to 24X behind a black face plate that will blend in nicely with our system’s enclosure.

Enclosure

The Antec Three Hundred returns as our case recommendation. It’s a little cheaper than our former pick, the Fractal Design Core 3000, but it’s not really much of a downgrade: the Three Hundred is well built and has many of the same amenities as the Core 3000, including a bottom-mounted PSU compartment, a cut-out in the motherboard tray behind the CPU socket, and built-in fans at the top and rear. The Three Hundred doesn’t let you route cables behind the motherboard tray, though, and it doesn’t have sideways hard-drive bays with removable caddies.

Power supply

Repeat after me: friends don’t let friends use shoddy power supplies. We don’t need a lot of juice to power the Econobox, but that doesn’t mean we’re gonna skimp on the PSU and grab a unit that weighs less than a bag of chips. Antec’s EarthWatts Green 380W is a solid choice that offers 80 Plus Bronze certification with enough wattage for the Econobox. Good budget PSUs can be hard to find, but the EarthWatts has proven its mettle solo and when sold inside Antec’s own cases.

Econobox alternatives

Want an AMD processor, more RAM, or an Nvidia graphics card? Read on.

Component Item Price
Processor AMD FX-4100 3.6GHz $109.99
Motherboard Asus M5A97 $94.99
Memory Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 $45.99
Graphics Gigabyte GeForce GTX 460 1GB $139.99

Processor

AMD advertises the FX-4100 as a quad-core processor, and since the chip runs at 3.6GHz, you might be misled into thinking it’s far superior to the Core i3-2120. That isn’t quite the case. Our sense is that the FX tends to be faster in some applications and slower in others.

We prefer the Core i3 because of its lower thermal envelope, but that doesn’t mean the FX-4100 isn’t worth a look. The AMD offering costs slightly less and can be paired with a more affordable motherboard without sacrificing functionality. Also, AMD touts the FX-4100’s unlocked upper multiplier, which facilitates easy overclocking (provided the chip has a decent amount of clock headroom, of course). Just keep in mind that, unlike the Core i3, the FX-4100 doesn’t have integrated graphics.

Motherboard

Asus’ M5A97 is richly adorned despite its sub-$100 asking price. This motherboard has six Serial ATA 6Gbps ports, dual physical PCI Express x16 slots with CrossFire support (in a x16/x4-lane config), USB 3.0, passively cooled CPU power regulation circuitry, and Asus’ excellent UEFI firmware. Newegg shoppers have given this mobo rather good reviews overall, too. Provided you don’t need integrated graphics, this board should be a fine complement to the FX-4100.

Memory

RAM is so cheap right now that, if you have a few bucks to spare, you might as well grab this 8GB Crucial DDR3-1600 kit instead of the 4GB bundle from the previous page. Windows 7 puts extra memory to good use as a disk cache, so you should be able to enjoy the additional four gigabytes even if you don’t edit high-definition video or juggle huge Photoshop files.

Graphics

The Radeon HD 7770 got the nod in our primary picks because of its low price, solid performance, and power-sipping 28-nm GPU. If you’d be more partial to an Nvidia card, then a GeForce GTX 460 with higher-than-normal clock speeds, like this Gigabyte model, ought to make you happy. The GeForce costs more but should perform slightly better than the Radeon. We’ve found Nvidia tends to provide better driver support for freshly released games, too. Other than the price, the GeForce’s only real downside is its higher power draw.

The Sweet Spot
Stunning value short on compromise

The Econobox doesn’t skimp on quality components, but we did have to make some sacrifices to keep the system on budget. Our budget grows with the Sweet Spot, allowing us to spec out a stacked system for under $1,000.

Component Item Price
Processor Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz $229.99
Motherboard Asus P8Z77-V LK $149.99
Memory Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 $45.99
Graphics XFX Radeon HD 7850 $229.99
Storage OCZ Agility 3 60GB $65.99
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB $94.99
Asus DRW-24B1ST $18.99
Audio Asus Xonar DG $23.99
Enclosure NZXT H2 $99.99
Power supply Seasonic M12II 520W $59.99
Total $995.91

Processor

We caught some flak in our last guide for going with the $200 Core i5-3450 instead of a quicker, more expensive model with a fully unlocked upper multiplier. The thing is, we wanted to stick to our $1,000 budget without skimping on graphics or the other bells and whistles we had in mind for this machine. So, we compromised. Perhaps a little too much.

This time, we don’t need to compromise at all. The fully unlocked Core i5-3570K has come down in price, and so has AMD’s Radeon HD 7850, so we can feature both in the Sweet Spot without going over-budget. That’s good news, too, because the Core i5-3570K is a nice upgrade over the i5-3450. Despite fitting within the same 77W thermal envelope, its base and Turbo speeds are 300MHz higher (3.4GHz and 3.8GHz, respectively). With the aid of our Z77 motherboard, you should be able to overclock the 3570K as far as it’ll go without touching the base clock.

Motherboard

If we stuck with the H77 motherboard from the Econobox, we’d lose unfettered control over the CPU multiplier, making overclocking more difficult. Fortunately, our bigger budget allows us to spring for the Z77 Express-based Asus P8Z77-V LK, which fits the “sweet spot” designation a little better.

In addition to offering full multiplier control, this mobo has two more external USB 3.0 ports than the GA-H77-DS3H (for a total of four). The P8Z77-V LK also delivers sideways-mounted Serial ATA ports (which won’t get in the way of long GPU coolers), dual PCIe x16 slots with proper support for CrossFire and SLI (with an x8/x8 lane configuration), and Asus’ excellent fan speed controls. We would have liked to see an Intel Ethernet controller instead of a Realtek one, but considering this mobo’s low price and well-rounded feature set, it’s hard to complain.

Memory

Yes, we’re stuffing 8GB of RAM into our mid-range build. Memory is dirt-cheap right now, and thanks to Windows 7’s clever caching system, which keeps oft-used programs in memory unless you need the RAM for something else, this kind of upgrade yields real performance benefits. Note that we’ve selected DDR3-1600 modules, because Ivy Bridge supports 1600MHz memory speeds out of the box.

Graphics

There’s a lot to like about the Radeon HD 7850: not only is it faster than previous-generation offerings, but it’s more power-efficient, as well.

This time, we’ve eschewed Gigabyte’s amped-up version of the card in favor of XFX’s Radeon HD 7850 Core Edition. Gigabyte’s 975MHz card was a fine deal when it cost only $10 more than reference models, but these days, its premium is several times that. The reference XFX model isn’t going to be much slower, and besides, you can always overclock it yourself. 7000-series Radeons generally take kindly to overclocking, based on what we’ve seen.

Storage

Forgive us if we seem over-indulgent, but recent price drops on 60-64GB SSDs have made it hard to resist. For less than $70, we can now outfit the Sweet Spot with OCZ’s 60GB Agility 3, a SandForce-based solid-state drive with top read and write speeds in the neighborhood of 500MB/s. Slap your Windows 7 installation on this bad boy, and you won’t need a stopwatch to tell the difference; the increased responsiveness and shorter boot and load times will feel like night and day. The performance leap from mechanical to solid-state storage is so great that, in our view, it’s more valuable than a faster CPU.

60GB may hold your Windows 7 installation and a handful of apps and games, but in all likelihood, it won’t be enough for everything you plan to load onto the Sweet Spot. That’s why we’re pairing the Agility 3 with a mechanical sidekick: Samsung’s 1TB Spinpoint F3. The 1TB Spinpoint F3 is a long-time TR favorite because of its high performance and low noise. Now that hard-drive prices have gotten more reasonable, we can safely include it in our $1000 build once again.

Thanks to the Z77’s Smart Response Technology, it’s possible to configure the SSD as a cache for the mechanical drive. SSD caching can deliver substantial performance improvements without forcing users to pick and choose what gets stored on the SSD.

We’ve borrowed the optical drive from the Econobox. Higher-end DVD burners don’t seem like they’re worth the premium, and Blu-ray is a little out of our price range. Those itching to outfit the Sweet Spot with more exciting storage solutions should check out the alternatives on the next page.

Audio

If your PC’s audio output is piped through a set of iPod earbuds or some circa-1996 beige speakers, you’re probably fine using the Sweet Spot’s integrated motherboard audio. Ditto if you’re running audio to a compatible receiver or speakers over a digital S/PDIF connection.

However, if you’ve spent more than the cost of dinner and a movie on a set of halfway decent analog headphones or speakers, you’d do well to upgrade to Asus’ excellent Xonar DG sound card. According to the results of our blind listening tests, this budget wonder is a cut above integrated audio and can even sound more pleasing to the ear than pricier offerings. The Xonar DG has a TR Editor’s Choice award in its trophy cabinet, too.

Enclosure

The Antec Three Hundred has enough features to get our nod for the Econobox, but we wanted something a little nicer for the Sweet Spot. Enter NZXT’s H2 case, which we reviewed not long ago. The H2 ticks all of the right boxes—bottom-mounted power supply emplacement, cut-outs in the motherboard tray, generous cable-routing options, and tool-less hard-drive bays—while adding noise-dampening foam, a cleverly designed external hard-drive dock, tool-less front fan mounts, and a whole host of other niceties. At $100, the H2 fits easily within our budget.

Power supply

Our budget also leaves room for a modular, 80 Plus Bronze-rated power supply from Seasonic (which, incidentally, happens to make PSUs for some of the more enthusiast-focused hardware companies out there). The M12II 520 Bronze doesn’t have the highest wattage rating, but 520W is almost overkill for a build like the Sweet Spot, and the mix of features and price is tough to beat. Seasonic even covers this puppy with a five-year warranty.

Sweet Spot alternatives

As with the Econobox, we have some alternative propositions for how to fill out the Sweet Spot.

Component Item Price
Processor AMD FX-8150 $199.99
Motherboard Asus M5A97 $94.99
Graphics Zotac GeForce GTX 560 Ti AMP! $209.99
Storage Samsung 830 Series 128GB $144.99
Samsung EcoGreen F4 2TB $119.99
LG WH14NS40 Blu-ray burner $79.99
Enclosure Corsair Carbide 400R $99.99

Processor

Folks partial to AMD may be interested in the FX-8150. Our numbers show that it’s sometimes faster and sometimes slower than the Core i5-3570K. Also, at $199.99, it’s about 30 bucks cheaper. Sounds like a good deal, right?

Not necessarily. Our first-ever look at “inside the second” gaming performance on different CPUs made one thing crystal clear: Intel chips deliver smoother, more consistent frame times than the FX-8150—sometimes quite dramatically so. The poor single-threaded performance of AMD’s Bulldozer architecture turns out to be a liability in games, and it actually results in a palpably worse experience, even if the average frame rates may seem sufficient.

The FX-8150 has another notable downside: its power consumption. AMD rates the chip for 125W of maximum power draw, considerably higher than the Intel processor’s 77W. In our tests, we found that the FX-8150 actually drew almost twice as much power under load as the Core i7-3770K, the fastest desktop Ivy Bridge variant.

If you’re going to grab the FX-8150 instead of the Intel alternative, keep those caveats in mind. The AMD processor isn’t a bad choice, strictly speaking, and it does cost a little bit less than fully unlocked Intel alternative. But… well, rooting for the underdog has its disadvantages right now.

Motherboard

Asus’ M5A97 returns from the Econobox alternatives on the strength of its low price and well-rounded features. In many respects, this $95 AMD board is comparable to the Intel one from our primary recommendations. It even has more 6Gbps Serial ATA ports. You won’t find display outputs for integrated graphics here, though.

Graphics

The cheapest GeForce based on Nvidia’s new Kepler architecture costs around $100, and the next step up is about $400, so we’ve had to source our GPU alternative from Nvidia’s previous-generation lineup. The stock GeForce GTX 560 Ti is a little slower than the Radeon HD 7850 from our primary recs, but Zotac’s AMP! version of the GTX 560 Ti has a 950MHz core speed and a 1100MHz memory speed, both considerably higher than the 822MHz and 800MHz stock clocks. The AMP! might even be faster than the 7850 as a result. However, its power draw will likely be higher, too.

Storage

If you have a little extra scratch at your disposal, then a higher-capacity SSD is a worthy investment. Chances are you’ll be able to fit your operating system, productivity software, and a small collection of recent games onto a 128GB drive. Samsung’s 830 Series 128GB gets the nod here for its attractive price and blistering performance.

Samsung’s 2TB EcoGreen F4, meanwhile, ought to please folks who value capacity over speed—such as those who spring for a 128GB SSD and feel comfortable relegating their mechanical hard drive(s) to mass-storage duties. This drive is a little too sluggish to house software and games, but it’s plenty fast for videos, photos, and other data that doesn’t benefit so much from faster solid-state access times. We’re more partial to the EcoGreen than to other 2TB “Green” hard drives because it’s cheaper and has fewer negative reviews on Newegg.

DVDs are so last decade. Blu-ray is in, and compatible burners are surprisingly cheap these days. Our favored LG Blu-ray burner has gone out of stock, but the WH14NS40 costs the same and can burn Blu-ray media at 14X speeds. Just as importantly, this seems to be the cheapest Blu-ray burner listed at Newegg right now.

Enclosure

The NZXT H2 in our primary picks is tuned for quiet operation, which isn’t the strong suit of Corsair’s Carbide 400R. However, if you’re not terribly concerned with low noise levels, the 400R looks like a step up. The Carbide has a roomy interior with top-notch cable management, childishly easy-to-use drive bays, support for USB 3.0 connectivity via a motherboard header, and best of all, excellent cooling capabilities—better than the H2’s according to our testing. This bad boy is worth a look for sure, especially considering its low asking price.

The Editor’s Choice
What TR’s editors would get—if they had time to upgrade

Staying within the Sweet Spot’s budget requires a measure of restraint. With the Editor’s Choice, we’ve loosened the purse strings to accommodate beefier hardware and additional functionality—the kind TR’s editors would opt for if they were building a PC for themselves.

Component Item Price
Processor Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz $229.99
Motherboard Asus P8Z77-V LK $149.99
Memory Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 $53.99
Graphics EVGA GeForce GTX 670 $399.99
Storage Corsair Force Series 3 240GB $199.99
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB $94.99
LG WH14NS40 Blu-ray burner $79.99
Audio Asus Xonar DX $71.99
Enclosure Corsair Obsidian Series 650D $179.99
Power supply Corsair HX650W $129.99
Total $1,590.90

Processor

We considered stepping all the way up to the Core i7-3770K, the fastest fully unlocked Ivy model, but $320 is a lot of scratch for a processor. Compared to the Core i5-3570K, all the 3770K has to offer are slightly faster base and Turbo speeds (3.5GHz and 3.9GHz, respectively, up from 3.4GHz and 3.8GHz) and Hyper-Threading capabilities. Having eight graphs in the Task Manager is nice, no question about it, and the extra threads can help with heavy multitasking. If you think that’s worth $80, see the alternatives section on the next page. We think the i5-3570K is a better deal.

Motherboard

Pricier motherboards may get us more bells and whistles, but the Asus P8Z77-V LK from our Sweet Spot already has plenty. Besides, the point of the Editor’s Choice is to be a well-balanced system that does everything TR’s editors would want their own PCs to do—not to splurge on the cream of the crop in every department. Saving a little money here gives us more room for a faster graphics card, too.

Memory

Again, we think 8GB DDR3 kits are affordable enough—and their performance benefits sufficiently palpable—to warrant inclusion in our primary recommendations. We’ve been using these particular Vengeance modules on several of our Sandy Bridge test systems for months now, and they haven’t given us any issues.

Graphics

Okay, so a $400 graphics card may seem a little pricey for a build like the Editor’s Choice. Hear us out, though. The next step down from the GeForce GTX 670 is AMD’s Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition, which is a fair bit slower and not all that much cheaper. (Prices for the 7870 start at $290, but the nicer variants are over the $300 mark.) The GTX 670, meanwhile, manages to perform awfully close to the GTX 680, which means it’s nearly in the same league as one of today’s fastest single-GPU graphics cards. If that isn’t worth a little extra cash, we don’t know what is.

We’re going with EVGA’s take on the GTX 670 here, mainly because it’s one of the few models in stock right now. Too bad 670 variants with custom coolers aren’t on virtual shelves, though. The GTX 670’s stock fan is noisy at idle and doesn’t cool the card as quietly as it should under load.

Storage

Thanks to ever-plummeting solid-state storage prices, we can outfit the Editor’s Choice with a 240GB Force Series 3 SSD from Corsair. The drive does cost a little more than the 128GB Samsung SSD featured in our last version of this config, but it also has way more storage capacity. In fact, the Force Series 3 gets you 88% more capacity but costs only 39% more. We think that’s a great deal, especially considering that the Corsair SSD has a fast SandForce SF-2281 controller, 6Gbps Serial ATA connectivity, peak read and write speeds above 500MB/s, and a three-year warranty. The extra capacity should help ensure your apps and games don’t spill over onto a slower drive.

In case there is some spillover, then of course, it’s helpful to have a relatively speedy mechanical hard drive to pick up the slack. Samsung’s Spinpoint F3 1TB should fulfill that task admirably; it’s fast, quiet, and reasonably priced by today’s standards.

Would you spend $1,500 on a new system without a Blu-ray burner? Probably not. LG’s WH14NS40 seems to be the cheapest option available at Newegg, and we see no reason to spend more.

Audio

The results of our blind listening tests suggest Asus’ shockingly cheap Xonar DG holds its own against pricier sound cards, and that’s true for the most part. However, the DG filters sound to give it extra pop, and we’ve found that such EQ fiddling can induce listener fatigue if you have sensitive ears. The Xonar DX should reproduce music in a more accurate, neutral fashion, and it has other perks, such as the ability to encode Dolby Digital Live audio on the fly. Real-time encoding is a handy feature for gamers who want to pass multichannel audio over a single digital cable rather than a bundle of analog ones.

Oh, and the Xonar DX also happens to fit into PCI Express slots, whereas the Xonar DG uses an old-school PCI interface. We figure you’re going to hold on to a sound card for several years through multiple builds, and PCI slots are on the way out. (Some newer motherboards already dispense with them entirely.) A PCIe sound card seems like a better investment if you can afford the price premium. In this case, we can.

Enclosure

As we explained in our review, Corsair’s Obsidian Series 650D enclosure essentially melds the innards of the Graphite Series 600T with the exterior design of the bigger and more expensive 800D, all the while retaining Corsair’s famous attention to detail. The 650D has fewer front-panel USB ports and less granular fan control than the 600T, and it costs a little more. The more we think about it, though, the more we prefer the Obsidian’s overall looks, lighter weight, and less bulky design.

Power supply

We’re keeping the same Corsair HX650W power supply as in our last few guides. This 650W unit has plenty of power and 80 Plus Bronze certification. It also features modular cabling that should make it easy to keep the case’s internals clean. The 650D may have excellent cable management options, but we’d prefer to have fewer cables to manage, as well.

Editor’s Choice alternatives

The build on the previous page may resemble what TR editors would build for themselves, but that doesn’t mean you can’t make a few careful substitutions while retaining the spirit of the Editor’s Choice.

Component Item Price
Processor Intel
Core i7-3770K 3.5GHz
$349.99
Graphics Gigabyte Radeon HD 7950 $349.99
Storage Crucial m4 256GB $209.99
Samsung EcoGreen F4 2TB $119.99
Case Corsair
Graphite Series 600T
$159.99

Processor

As we said on the previous page, we don’t consider the Core i7-3770K to be a particularly good deal—all it gets you, compared to the i5-3570K, is a slight clock speed increase and Hyper-Threading capabilities. However, we acknowledge that some users will want the top-of-the-line chip, be it for bragging rights or because their multitasking needs justify the extra threads. If that’s the case, go right ahead.

Graphics

The Radeon HD 7950 isn’t quite as fast as Nvidia’s GeForce GTX 670, even though it costs about the same. However, the Gigabyte model we’ve picked has higher-than-normal clock speeds and a nice, triple-fan cooler (which should be fairly quiet, based on our experience).

Storage

Corsair’s 240GB Force Series 3 SSD offers an excellent combination of pricing, capacity, and performance. Some users may wish to sacrifice performance for a little extra capacity. Those folks should check out Crucial’s m4 256GB solid-state drive, which costs only $10 more than the Corsair yet delivers 16GB of additional space. That drive’s peak write speed is only 260MB/s, though, and its write performance is measurably slower than the Corsair’s.

For our alternative mechanical sidekick, we’re bringing back the 2TB EcoGreen F4 from the Sweet Spot alternatives. Again, this drive is a little cheaper than the competition, and it seems to have better reviews overall.

Case

Although it’s bulkier and doesn’t look quite as good as the 650D, Corsair’s Graphite Series 600T enclosure costs 24 bucks less and earned a TR Editor’s Choice Award. Also, it’s available in white, if you’re into that sort of thing. (Note that the exact flavor of the Graphite 600T we reviewed is no longer in stock; the version that’s now selling has a mesh window on the left side panel. The case’s other features look identical, though, and the price hasn’t changed.)

The Double-Stuff Workstation
Because more is very often better

The Editor’s Choice is a nice step up from the Sweet Spot, but it’s a small step, all things considered. The Double-Stuff represents more of a leap in both hardware and budget.

Component Item Price
Processor Intel Core i7-3930K $569.99
Motherboard Asus P9X79 Pro $319.99
Memory Corsair Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 $97.99
Graphics XFX Radeon HD 7970 Black Edition $469.99
Storage Samsung 830 Series 256GB $274.99
Samsung EcoGreen F4 2TB $119.99
Samsung EcoGreen F4 2TB $119.99
LG WH14NS40 Blu-ray burner $79.99
Audio Asus Xonar DX $71.99
Power supply Corsair AX850W $199.99
Enclosure Cooler Master Cosmos II $349.99
CPU cooler
Corsair H80 $104.99
Total $2,674.89

Processor

Ivy Bridge may rule below $320 or so, but for those who can afford it, Sandy Bridge-E remains the crown jewel of Intel’s desktop lineup. The processor and its associated platform offer more memory channels, more PCI Express lanes, and more importantly, higher overall performance. Those advantages do come at the cost of higher power consumption, though.

We haven’t tested the Sandy Bridge-E-based Core i7-3930K, but it’s a very small step down from the thousand-dollar Core i7-3960X we reviewed. The cheaper offering features the same six Hyper-Threaded cores, four memory channels, unlocked upper multiplier, and 130W thermal envelope. The only changes are from a 3.3GHz base clock and a 3.9GHz Turbo peak to 3.2/3.8GHz, and from 15MB of L3 cache to 12MB. The performance of these two models should be almost identical, despite the $400 price difference.

Motherboard

Sandy Bridge-E requires motherboards with LGA2011 sockets. We looked at a few of those last November, and Asus’ P9X79 Pro struck us as a solid performer with a very complete feature set. We did chastise the board for silently ramping up Turbo multipliers when the memory clock was set manually, but that impudence can be rectified by changing a firmware setting. The UEFI firmware interface is really slick, as is Asus’ Windows tweaking. Since none of the other X79 mobos we’ve tested is perfect, the P9X79 Pro gets our vote—for now.

A note to video editing buffs: despite its loaded port cluster, this board lacks a FireWire port. That probably won’t bother most folks, but users who need FireWire connectivity will want to check our alternatives section on the next page, which includes a PCIe FireWire card.

Memory

We’re outfitting the Double Stuff with a kit that features four of the Corsair Vengeance modules we included in our earlier builds. We need four modules to populate all of the Core i7-3930K’s memory channels, and the price difference between 8GB and 16GB amounts to a drop in the bucket with a top-of-the-line system like this one.

Graphics

As we noted earlier, the GeForce GTX 670 is a great performer, but its stock cooler isn’t terribly quiet. The GeForce GTX 680 would be the natural solution to that problem, since it’s even faster than the GTX 670 and has a better cooler. Unfortunately, the GTX 680 is also in very tight supply, and we’ve had an awfully hard time finding it in stock.

Since we want this high-end build to include an appropriately spiffy graphics card, we’ve decided to equip the Double-Stuff with XFX’s Radeon HD 7970 Black Edition, one of the finest graphics cards we’ve tested to date. Thanks to a 1GHz GPU clock, this card should be roughly as fast as the GTX 680, and it comes with an excellent dual-fan cooler. AMD’s newly introduced Radeon HD 7970 GHz Edition would perhaps be a better choice for $500, but we’re not seeing it listed at Newegg yet.

Why not two of these cards instead of one? Reading our article, Inside the second: A new look at game benchmarking, should answer that question to some degree. Multi-GPU setups can certainly produce the highest frame rates, but they don’t necessarily churn out the lowest or most consistent frame times, which can mean a somewhat choppy experience that isn’t necessarily better than what you’d get from a single-GPU solution.

Multi-GPU configs can also present problems when new games come out in quick succession. AMD showed last year that supporting two new releases (Battlefield 3 and Rage) on single-GPU cards was a challenge, so we’re not terribly confident that a dual-GPU rig will serve you best as fresh titles roll out.

Of course, multi-GPU configs have advantages that trump the aforementioned inconveniences, particularly if you’re trying to run games across multiple displays or enjoy stereoscopic 3D graphics. We’ve singled out a couple of multi-GPU options in our alternatives section on the following page.

Storage

We recommend a Samsung 830 Series solid-state drive without reservations here. This 256GB model went through our strenuous benchmark suite and came out the other end with an Editor’s Choice award—and performance numbers above and beyond those of even the fastest SandForce drives.

For mechanical storage, a couple of 2TB EcoGreen F4s drives ought to provide sufficient mass-storage capacity. You can run the EcoGreens separately or in a RAID 1 array, which provides a measure of fault tolerance should one of the drives go bad.

Our LG Blu-ray burner almost feels a little too pedestrian for a system as exotic as the Double-Stuff… but good luck finding a more exciting alternative in the world of optical storage.

Audio

The Xonar DX offers the best of both worlds: excellent analog signal quality combined with the ability to encode multi-channel digital bitstreams on the fly.

Enclosure

For some time, the Double-Stuff was encased by Corsair’s Obsidian Series 800D enclosure, an awe-inspiring tower with enough bells and whistles to make any enthusiast’s mouth water. We didn’t switch our recommendation to the Cooler Master Cosmos II lightly. After reviewing this case (and giving it our Editor’s Choice award), we knew the Cosmos II would make its way into our Double-Stuff config. The Cooler Master case does cost more than the Corsair, but it’s also bigger and more impressive in just about every respect, from its sideways gullwing doors and sliding metal covers to the almost ridiculous amount of space inside. Nothing says “double-stuff” quite like the Cosmos II.

Power supply

We’re gonna need a beefy PSU to handle everything that’s been packed into the Double-Stuff. Corsair’s flagship 850W unit looks like just the ticket. The AX850W serves up 80 Plus Gold certification, modular cabling, a whopping seven years of warranty coverage, and certification for multi-GPU schemes from AMD and Nvidia. It doesn’t get much better than that, and we’ve been running 650W versions of the AX series on our storage test rigs for months now with no complaints.

CPU cooler

We usually leave it up to our readers to choose whether or not they want an aftermarket CPU cooler—we’ve actually got a number of recommendations on our peripherals and accessories page at the end of the guide. The thing is, Intel’s Core i7-3930K doesn’t come with a stock cooler to begin with. This build therefore isn’t complete without some sort of aftermarket device.

Considering our budget for the Sweeter Spot, we’d be remiss not to opt for a quiet, self-contained liquid cooler like Corsair’s H80. This beast will fit our LGA2011 socket, and it features a beefy radiator that can be sandwiched between a pair of 120-mm fans. Sure, it costs a few bucks more than aftermarket air coolers, but we think the H80 is worth the premium in a system like this one.

Double-Stuff alternatives

As complete as our Double-Stuff Workstation is, we still have other ideas for how to fill it out.

Component Item Price
Graphics Zotac GeForce GTX 680 $549.99
EVGA GeForce GTX 690 $999.99
FireWire card Rosewill RC-504 $19.99

Graphics

We have two alternative propositions for the Double-Stuff’s graphics. The first one is the GeForce GTX 680, or more specifically, Zotac’s factory-overclocked GeForce GTX 680 AMP!. This card clocks both its GPU and memory well above stock specs (1098MHz and 1652MHz, respectively, up from 1006MHz and 1500MHz), so it should be faster than the Radeon in our primary recommendations. It also features an impressive triple-slot cooler with dual fans and copper heatpipes up the wazoo. We tested this card a few weeks back, and we were impressed with it. The only downside is that, like all GTX 680s on the market right now, it’s hard to find in stock.

For folks who want it all, it doesn’t get much better than Nvidia’s GeForce GTX 690. You might stifle a laugh at the $999.99 asking price, but don’t be so quick to judge. The GTX 690 actually hides two GK104 GPUs under its cooler, so it’s equivalent to a pair of GeForce GTX 680 cards running in tandem—and as it happens, two of those cards would cost the exact same amount. Unlike such a dual-card config, though, the GTX 690 only takes up two expansion slots, and it’s tuned for lower noise and power consumption. In our testing, the 690 consumed 50W less and had a noise level 3 dB lower than dual 680s, despite offering virtually identical performance.

FireWire card

As we noted earlier, our selected motherboard doesn’t have FireWire connectivity. If you need FireWire for whatever reason, simply pop Rosewill’s RC-504 adapter into a free PCI Express slot. It’s only $20, and the circuit board is small enough not to obscure airflow.

The Next-Gen Console
Why wait?

Rumor has it the next generation of game consoles will be out next year. With today’s PC components, though, we think you can get pretty close to the level of performance the next Xbox and PlayStation might offer—and you can get there today in a Mini-ITX system.

Component Item Price
Processor Intel Core i5-3450S $199.99
Motherboard ASRock Z77E-ITX $149.99
Memory Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 $42.99
Graphics XFX Radeon HD 7850 $229.99
Storage Crucial M4 256GB $209.99
Audio Integrated $0
Enclosure/PSU Silverstone Sugo SG05BB-450 $114.99
Controller
Xbox 360 controller for Windows $47.99
Total $950.94

Processor

The Core i5-3450S may have the lowest clock speeds of Intel’s desktop Ivy Bridge quads, but with four 2.8GHz cores and a 3.5GHz Turbo peak, it’s not exactly slow. More importantly, this chip costs the same as the 77W Core i5-3450 yet has a lower 65W power envelope. That’s helpful, since we’ve made the Next-Gen Console a small-form-factor build. There’s no need to prioritize performance over power and noise levels, or vice versa; we can have it all.

Motherboard

We don’t recommend ASRock motherboards every day—we’re often more partial to offerings from bigger manufacturers—but the firm’s Z77E-ITX fits our needs to a tee. It’s the right size for our Mini-ITX chassis, and it features one of Intel’s latest 7-series chipsets (the best of the bunch, actually). The Z77E-ITX also has built-in Wi-Fi, which removes the need for an external dongle.

Mainly, though, the ASRock board does all of these things for less than $150, while the cheapest comparable motherboard from a bigger vendor costs $200. We’re trying to keep the Next-Gen Console reasonably affordable, and the Z77E-ITX mobo is just a better deal. In fact, it has better Newegg user reviews than the alternative right now. We’ll be testing one of these boards very soon.

Memory

Eight gigs of DDR3-1600, 1.5V RAM should do the trick for this diminutive gaming box. Here, we’re simply bringing back the Crucial kit from our Sweet Spot and Econobox alternative configs.

Graphics

This XFX Radeon HD 7850 Core Edition meets two important criteria. First, it’s very fast—fast enough to handle anything you throw at it, provided you stick to a 1080p resolution (which we assume you will, considering this is an ersatz console). Second, this 7850 has a stubby circuit board, which means it can comfortably fit within the confines of our small-form-factor enclosure. (The case takes cards as long as 9″, and the XFX 7850 Core Edition is only 7.8″ long.) We can’t think of a better match for this PC.

Storage

Today’s consoles have mechanical storage, but tomorrow’s consoles will probably have solid-state drives. Why wouldn’t they? SSDs are immune to mechanical failures, and they offer substantially better performance and lower access times, which translates into lightning-quick level loads. On top of that, they’re getting cheaper all the time.

Crucial’s m4 256GB gets our nod for the Next-Gen Console, because it maximizes storage capacity per dollar, and its somewhat lackluster write performance shouldn’t be much of an impediment here. 256GB should be enough to store plenty of games alongside your operating system, unless you’re planning to keep your entire game collection on local storage (in which case we suggest checking out our alternatives section on the next page).

Note that we’re not recommending an optical drive—at least not for our primary picks. Optical storage is fast becoming obsolete, and any self-respecting gamer today is going to be more comfortable using Steam, Origin, or any number of other online distribution services out there. Even old titles from bygone days can be nabbed online, and you don’t need to go hunting for old CDs while hoping they’re not too scratched to work. If you absolutely must have an optical drive, then check out our Blu-ray recommendation on the next page.

Enclosure

This wouldn’t be a console substitute without a small-form-factor enclosure, now, would it? Silverstone’s Sugo SG05BB-450 is a long-time favorite of ours, thanks to its small size, beefy 120-mm intake fan, 450W 80 Plus Bronze-rated power supply,. The Sugo’s generous assortment of vents should help keep power-hungry components cool, as well. Also, for what it’s worth, the case doesn’t have a single user review on Newegg below three stars.

Controller

Now, the finishing touch: the Windows version of Microsoft’s excellent Xbox 360 wireless controller. You’ll need this bad boy if you plan to stick the Next-Gen Console in your living room. You might need it anyway, since some cross-platform games still have… unfortunate control schemes on the PC. Some games are just more fun to play with a controller, too.

Next-Gen Console alternatives

What if you envision the Next-Gen Console as a part-time home-theater PC? Perhaps you’d like some mechanical storage to accompany the SSD? We’ve singled out some alternatives for such scenarios.

Component Item Price
Storage Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB $94.99
Samsung EcoGreen F4 2TB $119.99
Sony BC-5650H-01 slim Blu-ray combo drive $114.99
TV tuner Hauppauge WinTV-HVR-950Q USB TV Tuner $69.99
Remote Keyspan ER-V2 $38.99

Storage

If you’re afraid 256GB won’t be enough to hold your game collection, then your best option may be to bolster the SSD with a 1TB Samsung Spinpoint F3. The Spinpoint is plenty fast for a mechanical hard drive, and it boasts four times the capacity of our Crucial SSD. It just won’t offer the same lightning-quick response times.

If you need mechanical storage only to turn the Next-Gen Console into an HTPC, then a slower, higher-capacity hard drive should be a better option. In this case, we’d recommend the 2TB EcoGreen F4 you’ve seen earlier in the guide.

Last, but not least, the Next-Gen Console will need Blu-ray to fulfill home-theater duties in an optimal fashion. Silverstone’s Sugo SG05 enclosure requires a slim optical drive, which limits our choices somewhat, so we’ve gone with the Sony BC-5650H-01. This slim combo drive will happily read Blu-ray discs and burn DVDs, but it won’t burn Blu-ray media.

TV tuner

Since we’re constrained to a Mini-ITX form factor, and we want the Next-Gen Console to have a discrete graphics card, we have no spare expansion slots to accommodate a full-sized TV tuner. Thankfully, USB solutions exist—though there aren’t many of them. Hauppauge’s WinTV-HVR-950Q looks like a decent choice. It connects to a standard USB 2.0 port, supports ATSC, NTSC, and ClearQAM standards, and has both a coaxial input and a portable digital antenna. User reviews on Newegg look pretty good overall, too.

Remote

The WinTV-HVR-950Q comes with a remote in the box, but it’s a tiny one with rather small-looking buttons. Keyspan’s ER-V2 is a more fleshed-out alternative that mimics the design of Microsoft’s original Windows Media Center remote.

The mobile sidekicks
Ivy Bridge-based ultrabooks are just starting to pop up in stores and on e-tail listings. The same goes for notebooks based on Trinity, AMD’s latest APU, which should be available in both pseudo-ultrabook and full-sized formats.

On the ultrabook front, options include an Ivy-powered successor to Asus’ excellent Zenbook UX31. We reviewed the Sandy Bridge-powered UX31 last October, and we were pretty impressed overall. The UX32VD looks similar from the outside but now features 1920×1080 pixels on its 13.3″ display, which has also been upgraded to IPS panel technology. Inside, the system has a faster, Ivy Bridge processor and GeForce GT 620M discrete graphics from Nvidia. That sounds like a winning combination, even if it comes at the cost of some extra bulk. (The UX32VD is a little thicker than its predecessor, and it weighs slightly more, at 3.2 lbs.) You’ll find the UX32 at Newegg for $1,299.

Those looking for a cheaper, thinner option may be interested in HP’s 13-inch Spectre XT, which starts at $999.99, weighs just 3.07 lbs, and has a 0.69″-thick metallic chassis with a tapered front edge. The Spectre has all-solid-state storage and purportedly features up to eight hours of battery run time. There’s no discrete GPU under the hood, though, and the display resolution tops out at 1366×768.

Sony’s Vaio T13, which sells for $799.99 right now, is also worth a look. That system doesn’t have the wedge-shaped chassis of a MacBook Air lookalike, but it does have a 17W Ivy Bridge CPU and a 13.3″ panel. Sony has cut corners somewhat by using a hybrid storage solution, which is made up of a 32GB SSD and a 500GB mechanical hard drive. Still, this machine is only 0.71″ thick, and it’s a relative lightweight at 3.54 lbs. That’s not bad for a penny under eight hundred bucks—just don’t expect a fancy display.

Trinity can’t quite replicate the blend of power-efficient performance that 17W versions of Ivy Bridge offer, but it still serves up a decent mix of speed and battery life. So far, it seems AMD’s latest APU has mainly taken up residence in larger machines like Toshiba’s Satellite C855D—a 15.6″ notebook that runs a dual-core, 35W version of Trinity and sports a $599.99 price tag. Thinner alternatives are available, like HP’s Sleekbook 6, which couples the same display size with a 0.78″ chassis. The Sleekbook 6 costs $649.99.

Below $500, AMD Zacate-powered ultraportables are still worth considering—they’re cheaper and smaller than ultrabooks are or will be for the foreseeable future. Our favorite system in that category is HP’s dm1z, which starts at $399.99 with an 11.6″ 1366×768 display, an AMD E-300 APU, Radeon HD 6310M integrated graphics, 4GB of RAM, and a 320GB mechanical hard drive.

The dm1z earned our coveted TR Editor’s Choice award last March. Not only does this system look great on paper, but it’s also exceptionally well-built for a cheap ultraportable.

In the tablet world, Apple’s third-generation iPad is getting all the attention—as it should. The tablet costs the same $499 as last year’s model, but it features a whopper of a display with a 2048×1536 resolution. Speaking of the iPad 2, it’s is now available for $399. You can nab both tablets directly from Apple’s online store.

If iOS doesn’t float your boat, Asus’ Ice Cream Sandwich-powered Eee Pad Transformer Prime might seem tempting. It’s not particularly cheap by Android tablet standards, at $479 for the base, 32GB model. However, it has twice the storage capacity of the base iPad 3, and you can augment it with a keyboard dock that adds physical input peripherals, extra connectivity, and an auxiliary battery.

We’d be keen to recommend the Prime if it weren’t for the Transformer Pad Infinity, which is similar but features a faster CPU, improved wireless performance, and a high-density 1920×1200 display. We’ve reviewed the Infinity, and we like it in conjunction with the optional keyboard dock, though the iPad 3 still has a better display. The new Transformer Pad will start at $499 for the 32GB model, and the dock will add $149 on top of that. Expect to see the Infinity on shelves soon.

Asus has refreshed its budget Transformer, too: the Transformer Pad 300 costs only $399 with 32GB of storage capacity. The 300 has very similar specs to the Prime, but its Tegra 3 processor is clocked a little lower. The 300 is also a little thicker and heavier. And yes, it’s also available with an optional, battery-life-augmenting keyboard dock (asking price: $149).

A note on Windows 8

We’d like to preface our regularly scheduled operating system section with a few words about Microsoft’s next OS. As you know, Windows 8 is due out this fall, and it’s going to feature a new user interface called Metro, which will coexist with the traditional desktop. Microsoft has decided to put Metro front and center, replacing the old Start menu and forcing desktop users into a strange dance between old and new design philosophies. Well, some of us aren’t thrilled with that design decision; we might end up holding on to Windows 7 for the foreseeable future. If you plan to skip Windows 8, then feel free to skip this preface, as well.

If you do expect to run Microsoft’s latest and greatest, though, then you might want to read on. Building a PC now would normally force you to buy a Windows 7 license first and then purchase a Windows 8 license at full price in a few months—not exactly an appealing proposition. However, there are two ways of avoiding that.

The first is through a new Microsoft promotion, as part of which discounted Windows 8 upgrades will be available to Windows 7 users until January 30, 2013. You’ll find the details in this blog post. Microsoft previously announced a similar program (with a steeper discount) for pre-built Windows 7 machines, but this latest offer applies to all Windows 7 users. Essentially, it means that once Windows 8 comes out, you can upgrade to Windows 8 Professional for $39.99 instead of paying full price for the new OS.

The second option skips Windows 7 entirely in favor of using the Windows 8 Release Preview as a stopgap. Right now, anyone can grab the Release Preview and install it on any compatible PC, free of charge, without running afoul of Microsoft’s licensing restrictions. Installation images are even available in ISO format. From what we’ve been able to gather, the Release Preview won’t expire until mid-January 2013, which should be long after Windows 8’s retail debut this fall. You can buy the full version of the OS once it’s available.

The only downside to that option, as far as we can tell, is that in-place upgrades from the Release Preview to the full version of Windows 8 apparently won’t be supported. The Windows 8 installer should let you keep personal data, but that’s it—no personal settings will be saved, unlike with an upgrade from Windows 7. We don’t think such a minor limitation will give adventurous enthusiasts cold feet, especially if the alternative involves spending an extra hundred bucks or so, but it’s worth pointing out nonetheless.

The operating system
Which one is right for you?

Before we begin, we should acknowledge that some readers may not feel comfortable with Windows’ prominent place on this page. We hold no particular grudge against Linux or other desktop operating systems, but we think most TR readers will want to stick with Windows. For starters, most of you play PC games, and we’ve tuned all of our main configs for gaming—something Linux doesn’t do nearly as well as Microsoft’s OSes. Also, we figure enthusiasts with enough expertise to run Linux on their primary desktops will already have a favorite Linux distribution picked out. As for Mac OS X, we find both the dubious legality and the lack of official support for running it on standard PCs too off-putting.

Now, if you’re buying a copy of Windows today, you should really be thinking about Windows 7. We explained in our review that this OS may well be Microsoft’s finest to date, because it draws from Vista’s strengths while adding a healthy dose of polish, not to mention improved performance and non-disastrous backward compatibility. Building a new system with Windows 7 instead of Vista or XP is really a no-brainer at this point.

Just like its predecessors, Windows 7 comes in several different editions, three of which you’ll find in stores: Home Premium, Professional, and Ultimate. What makes them different from one another? The table below should help answer that question:

Windows 7 Home Premium
Windows 7 Professional
Windows 7 Ultimate
New Aero features X X X
Windows Search X X X
Internet Explorer 8 X X X
Windows Media Center X X X
HomeGroups X X X
Full-system Backup and Restore X X X
Remote Desktop client X X X
Backups across network X X
Remote Desktop host X X
Windows XP Mode X X
Domain Join X X
BitLocker X
Interface language switching X
Price—full license $179.99 $249.99 $289.99
Price—upgrade license $109.99 $174.99 $185.48
Price—OEM (64-bit) license $99.99 $139.99 $189.99
Price—OEM (32-bit) license $99.99 $139.99 $124.99
Price—Anytime Upgrade —> $89.99 $139.99

As you can see, Windows 7 editions follow a kind of Russian nesting doll pattern: Professional has all of the Home Premium features, and Ultimate has everything. Since most users probably won’t find the Ultimate edition’s extras terribly exciting, the choice ought to come down to Home Premium vs. Professional for almost everyone.

Some of TR’s editors like hosting Remote Desktop sessions and running network backups, so we’d probably go with the Professional package unless we were on a tight budget. However, we should also note that Windows 7 Home Premium includes some features formerly exclusive to more upscale editions, namely full-system backups and Previous Versions (a.k.a. Shadow Copy). See our review for more details.

If you go with Home Premium and find you need some of the Professional features down the road, you can always use the Anytime Upgrade program to step up. It’ll only set you back $90.

Speaking of upgrades, you’ll notice upgrade licenses are quite a bit cheaper than full ones. That’s because you need a legit version of Windows XP or Windows Vista to use them. The edition doesn’t matter, but you do need the previous OS to be activated and installed on your hard drive for the Windows 7 upgrade to work. Mind you, Vista upgrade installers don’t seem to protest when a user does a clean install of Vista without a product key and then runs an upgrade installation over that. Windows 7 could allow for the same trick. Microsoft doesn’t sanction this method, however, and who knows how future updates to the Windows activation system might affect it.

To save even more, you could also opt for an OEM license. Microsoft aims these at pre-built PCs, and for that reason, it prohibits users from carrying an OEM license over from one PC to another one. You may therefore be forced to buy a new copy of Windows 7 after a major upgrade. (Retail editions have no such limitation, as far as we’re aware.) Also unlike their retail brethren, OEM licenses only cover one version of the software—32-bit or 64-bit—so you’ll have to pick one or the other up front and stick with it.

That brings us to another point: should you go 32-bit or 64-bit? Since all of the processors we recommend in this guide are 64-bit-capable and all of our systems have 4GB of memory or more, the x64 release strikes us as the most sensible choice. This recommendation is relevant to folks who buy retail and upgrade editions, too—you might have to ask Microsoft to ship you x64 installation media first, but installing an x64 variant looks like the best idea.

As we’ve already explained, 32-bit flavors of Windows only support up to 4GB of RAM, and that upper limit covers things like video memory. In practice, that means that your 32-bit OS will only be able to use 3-3.5GB of system RAM on average and even less than 3GB if you have more than one discrete GPU. With new OSes and games pushing the envelope in terms of memory use, the 4GB limit can get a little uncomfortable for an enthusiast PC.

There are some caveats, however. 64-bit versions of Windows don’t support 32-bit drivers, and they won’t run 16-bit software. You’ll probably want to make sure all of your peripherals have compatible drivers, and vintage game lovers may also have to check out emulators like DOSBox. Still, hardware makers have improved x64 support quite a bit since Vista came out, so you’ll probably be fine unless you have something like a really old printer. (For some background on what makes 64-bit computing different at a hardware level, have a look at our take on the subject.)

Peripherals, accessories, and extras
Matters of religion and taste

Now that we’ve examined operating system choices in detail, let’s have a look at some accessories. We don’t have a full set of recommendations at multiple price levels in the categories below, but we can make general observations and point out specific products that are worthy of your consideration. What you ultimately choose in these areas will probably depend heavily on your own personal preferences.

Displays

The world of monitors has enough scope and variety that we can’t keep track of it all, especially because we don’t often review monitors. However, we do appreciate a good display—or two or three of them, since several of us are multi-monitor fanatics—so we can offer a few pieces of advice.

Besides obvious differences in sizes and aspect ratios, LCD monitors have different panel types. Wikipedia has a good run-down of different kinds of LCD panels in this article, but most users will probably care about one major differentiating attribute: whether their display has a 6-bit twisted nematic + film (TN+film) panel or not. The majority of sub-$500 monitors have 6-bit TN panels, which means 18-bit, rather than 24-bit, color definition. Those panels use dithering to simulate colors that are out of their scope, yielding sub-optimal color accuracy, and they often have poor viewing angles on top of that. 8-bit panels typically look better, although they tend to have higher response times and prices.

Don’t assume that all IPS panels have eight bits per color channel, either. A new breed of e-IPS displays has emerged with only 6-bit color for each channel. These displays purportedly offer better color reproduction and viewing angles than their TN counterparts, but be aware that you’re not getting the full 24-bit experience.

What should you get? We think that largely depends on which of our builds you’re going with. For instance, those who purchase the Sweet Spot ought to splurge on a nice 8-bit, 24″ display like the HP ZR2440W, Dell UltraSharp U2410, or Asus PA246Q, all of which have IPS panels, reasonable price tags, and a cornucopia of input ports. (The ZR24w is the only one with a normal sRGB color gamut, though.)

We recommend something bigger, like Dell’s 27″ UltraSharp U2711 or 30″ UltraSharp U3011, for use with our opulent workstation or an upgraded Editor’s Choice build. Don’t be shy about adding more than one screen, either.

By the way, we should point out that the Radeon HD 6000- and 7000-series graphics cards we recommended in this guide support triple-monitor configurations. This scheme, which AMD calls Eyefinity, even works in existing games. You’ll need either an adapter or a display with a native DisplayPort input if you want to run three monitors, though. The first two may be connected to a Radeon’s DVI or HDMI outputs, but the third needs to be driven by the card’s DisplayPort out.

Nvidia has a competing feature similar to Eyefinity, called Surround Gaming, that enables gaming across three monitors, as well. However, that feature requires either a Kepler-based GeForce GTX 600-series graphics card or dual GPUs from previous generations.

Mice and keyboards

New mice seem to crop up every other week, but we tend to favor offerings from Logitech and Microsoft because both companies typically make quality products and offer great warranty coverage. (Nothing beats getting a free, retail-boxed mouse if your old one starts behaving erratically.) Everyone has his preferences when it comes to scroll wheel behavior, the number of buttons present, and control panel software features. But here, too, one particular attribute lies at the heart of many debates: wirelessness.

Wireless mice have come a long way over the past few years, and you can expect a relatively high-end one to feel just as responsive as a wired mouse. However, certain folks—typically hard-core gamers—find all wireless mice laggy, and they don’t like the extra weight of the batteries. Tactile preferences are largely subjective, but wireless mice do have a few clear advantages and disadvantages. On the upside, you can use them anywhere on your desk or from a distance, and you don’t run the risk of snagging the cable. That said, good wireless mice cost more than their wired cousins, and they force you to keep an eye on battery life. Because of that last issue, some favor wireless mice with docking cradles, which let you charge your mouse at night and not have to worry about finding charged AAs during a Team Fortress 2 match.

We can also find two distinct schools of thoughts on the keyboard front. Some users will prefer the latest and fanciest offerings from Logitech and Microsoft, with their smorgasbords of media keys, sliders, knobs, scroll wheels, and even built-in LCD displays. Others like their keyboards simple, clicky, and heavy enough to beat a man to death with. If you’re one of the old-school types, you may want to try a Unicomp keyboard or an original vintage-dated IBM Model M. $50-70 is a lot to put down for a keyboard, but these beasts can easily last a couple of decades.

If you’re part of the mechanical keyboard club and are looking for something a little less… well, ugly, then Metadot’s Das Keyboard Professional might interest you. The Das Keyboard is pretty pricey (nearly $150), but it has a more stylish look and a softer feel than the Model M and its modern derivatives. Cheaper alternatives to the Das Keyboard can be found among Rosewill’s line of mechanical keyboards, which come outfitted with all types and variations of MX Cherry key switches, from the clicky and tactile blue switches to the linear and non-tactile black ones. We also like the combination of mechanical switches, macro keys, and backlighting offered by the Razer BlackWidow Ultimate.

Folks more interested in gaming than typing may also want to look at Corsair’s Vengeance K60 and Vengeance K90 keyboards, which feature linear, non-tactile, and non-clicky Cherry Red switches. In layman’s terms, the keys are mechanical but don’t produce noticeable feedback when actuated (unless they bottom out, that is). This switch design makes a lot of sense for games, since it enables quick, repetitive key-presses. These two keyboards use Cherry Red switches for the alpha keys and standard rubber-dome switches for the F-key row and the paging block. The K90 is backlit, and it features a set of 18 macro keys, to boot. The K60 earned our TR Recommended award when we reviewed it earlier this year.

Card reader

This section traditionally included a floppy drive/card reader combo, but we’re in 2012 now. We’ve had the Internet, USB thumb drives, and Windows-based BIOS flashing tools for many years. It’s time to let go.

If you absolutely must stick something in that external 3.5″ drive bay, we suggest this all-in-one card reader. It costs just over $10 yet has good user reviews on Newegg, and it should happily accept any flash card you find lying around.

Cooling

You might have noticed that all of our recommended processors are retail-boxed variants packaged with stock heatsinks and fans. Retail processors have longer warranties than “tray” or OEM CPUs, and their coolers tend to be at least adequate, with fans that work with motherboard-based temperature control and stay reasonably quiet at idle.

That said, anyone aspiring to overclock or to build a truly quiet PC will likely want to explore aftermarket alternatives. We’ve singled out three options that ought to suit most needs and budgets: Cooler Master’s Hyper 212 Plus, Thermaltake’s Frio, and Corsair’s H60.

Priced just under $30, the Hyper 212 Plus is a fine no-frills substitute for stock coolers. Its four copper heat pipes, tower-style design, and 120-mm PWM fan should allow for quieter, more effective cooling. Our next step up, the Frio, costs a little under twice as much but provides beefier cooling capabilities that should make it sufficient for air-cooled overclocking setups. Finally, Corsair’s H60 is a closed-loop liquid cooler whose radiator mounts over your enclosure’s 120-mm exhaust fan. The H60 will set you back about 10 bucks more than the Frio, and we’d recommend it to folks who want a truly quiet PC.

Noctua’s NH-U12P SE2 cooler deserves an honorable mention in this section. The original NH-U12P did rather well in our air vs. water CPU cooler showdown a couple of years back. Things have changed somewhat since then, though, and the Noctua cooler no longer costs less than closed-loop liquid-cooling alternatives. In fact, it’s about the same price as the H60 right now. The NH-U12P SE2 may be as close to the ultimate air tower as you can get, though.

Backups

You know what they say: it’s all fun and games until someone’s hard drive starts developing bad sectors and kicks the bucket in a dissonant avalanche of clicking and crunching sounds. If you’re unsure how to formulate a backup strategy, you can check out our article on the subject, which recommends a fairly straightforward approach. That article deals with Windows Vista’s built-in backup software, which isn’t bad. Win7’s backup tools are even better, though, and Microsoft has included them in the Home Premium edition of the OS.

All you need to get Windows 7 backups going is a decent external hard drive. For that purpose, Thermaltake’s BlacX docking station should work well with any of the hard drives we’ve recommended throughout this guide (perhaps the 2TB EcoGreen F4). This newer USB 3.0 version of the BlacX made a pretty good impression on us, and backing up large files and drive images with it should be a snap.

Conclusions

So, that’s our summer system guide. Aside from some price changes, a few clever product substitutions, and our new Next-Gen Console build, very little has changed in the past few months. Things may stay that way for a while yet, too.

We’re still awaiting AMD’s desktop-bound Trinity APUs, but those are only going to matter at the low end of the market, and there’s no telling whether they’ll make us rethink our primary picks for the Econobox. Maybe they will, maybe they won’t. On the graphics side of things, the only missing piece is Nvidia’s mid-range Kepler GPU, which the company has yet to announce or quote a launch time frame for. Everything else is in place already.

The biggest thing on the horizon is probably Windows 8, which should hit stores some time this fall. As we noted on the previous page, the impending arrival of Microsoft’s new OS is no call to hold off on an upgrade. You can safely run the Release Preview until Windows 8 hits stores, and it won’t cost you a dime.

All in all, then, this seems like a great time to slap together a new gaming rig (or a high-powered workstation for, er, real work). Prices may shift slightly, and new solid-state drives will probably keep appearing at a breakneck pace, but for the time being, it appears that we’re all set.

Comments closed
    • halbhh2
    • 7 years ago

    Better, faster for less $ at Newegg.

    It’s completely unfair (later in time, uses combo deal, from a daily E-blast email), but if you are patient you can get a FAR BETTER system than the TR Econobox for less:

    Today: combo deal: for $627 a complete system for 4-core 3.4 Ghz Phenom II, 128 GB SSD (!!), 8GB ram, nice case, and….get this, a HD 6850 graphics card. Wow. and USB 3.0. Very nice.

    This is a temporary deal, and the link won’t work long: [url<]http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.1018125&nm_mc=EMC-IGNEFL080912&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL080912-_-EMC-080912-Index-_-Combo-_-Combo1018125-LM0A[/url<] But....the point is, if you really want "econo" you can definitely get MORE for LESS $ at Newegg than the TR configuration. A faster, better computer for less.

    • halbhh2
    • 7 years ago

    While TR’s ‘Econobox’ has a nice set of strengths, etc., for me it is surely a mid-range build. For me, a real “econobox” as you offer without operating system, without a monitor, without a keyboard or mouse should cost considerably less. Really, that should only cost about $300 max. And that is generous.

    It’s not a bad configuration you offer. It is simply misnamed, and you have no “econobox” — that’s missing in action here.

      • superjawes
      • 7 years ago

      Since this is an “enthusiast” site, “Ecnobox” is pretty solid. That’s not to say that there aren’t cheaper builds possible, but those builds also would not be capable. You would be trading so much performance that no regulars on this site would ever build a $300 Econobox for themselves.

      We also had this conversation more than once since this guide was released. As you drop hardware prices below Econobox levels, the value of building yourself drops drastically. Especially since the OS adds a significant cost to builders while being virtually free on HP and Dell machines, which usually end up with “free” mice and keyboards as well.

      So basically, there isn’t a lot of reason to spec a $300 build-it-yourself machine unless we’re talking about special circumstances. The current incarnation of the Econobox is a very capable machine without breaking the bank, and I think that lives up to the name quite well.

        • halbhh2
        • 7 years ago

        I focused on the overall price, but now that I review the configuration more carefully, I’m actually not willing to call it “potent” (article), though it will do no doubt. Main problem, elementary — memory is very cheap now, and having 8GB really does make a system more snappy, especially one without a SSD, which of course an “econ” won’t have yet. From my experience, I’d build roughly as so:
        CPU: $99 is plenty Since this is “econo” and since processor power is NOT often the limiting factor for most apps after about a $100 cpu vs other components, use a high value for dollar one, like the Phenom II x4 965 at $99
        Motherboard: any AM3+ (allows future upgrade) , using the bundle discount MB from MicroCenter so about $30 net Example: ASRock 970DE3/U3S3 770 AM3+ ATX (USB3.0, etc.)
        Drive: Deskstar 7K1000.D 1TB for $80 at Microcenter
        8GB DDR3 1333 Microcenter: $38
        Now, I don’t really object to an expensive, fine, first rate case like the Antec 300: $55
        and that PSU is good enough also, because again, I like one that is very reliable: $45
        and the Asus DVD for $19
        So, that just leaves the graphics, and let’s presume we have a cheap gamer here, as is standard for this site, yes? Ok, even though I could go lower without much loss, I’ll use the same HD 7770 so that this machine will have *equal or better* gaming performance. $125

        I get $491, which is not econo, but is somewhat *better* than the TR build which costs $97 more. Mine will be snappier overall, most of the time.

        Still, if I was doing a real Econobox, I’d just ease the graphics down a bit to save about $40,l, get a case/PSU combo to save another $40, and even the cpu down to one of their true OEM like the Phenom II X4 B93 Socket AM3 for $60 (if you have an old cooler lying around). If you can scrounge a few things, like a used case and psu, old DVD drive, you can get down to about $300 easily.

          • halbhh2
          • 7 years ago

          Wow, the EGG strikes back!
          Everything for $290 (“limited time”), with integrated graphics. Add in that $125 HD7770 and you are at a scant $415, about $173 *less* than the TR setup.

          Will it outperform the TR Econobox? *Yes*, most of the time:

          [url<]http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.1018596[/url<] Any catches on this? Minor, but yes--> no USB3.0 , and ram limited to 8GB (but that will be enough for years). Altogether, a very good value. A true "Econo" box. -- Edit 7/27, so the combo deal didn't last long. Not surprising. But if you want a real econobox with very good performance, see my previous comment in the thread, just above this one.

    • brucethemoose
    • 7 years ago

    For the adventurous builders going for the sweet spot or better, it doesn’t get much better than a 2560×1440 IPS non-AG screen for $350-$400. With some tweaking, a few can even run at 90hz or more.

    [url<]http://compare.ebay.com/like/320871907515?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&_lwgsi=y&cbt=y[/url<] There are MASSIVE threads on OCN and Hard about these monitors, and I'm using one myself with a pretty cheap build. IMO, a deal as big as this deserves some mention in the TR guide.

      • Airmantharp
      • 7 years ago

      I assume that these are one of the Korean built models using LG’s IPS panels. They’re great for the price, but the issues at hand are the quality of the panels themselves (Dell, HP, NEC, Apple etc. get the better ones) and the lack of direct warranty support if something goes wrong.

      Those aren’t insurmountable at all, and I do feel that these monitors should get more mainstream recognition in the U.S., but they can’t be recommended without a mention of the caveats, like a decent Dell or HP screen can.

    • clone
    • 7 years ago

    better can be built.

    CPU is fine although in this segment I’d go AMD and save both on board and CPU.
    motherboard is fine ignoring above.
    4gb’s of ram is embarrassing and 8gb should be minimum ($41 Patriot)
    graphics are too weak, XFX HD 6870 for $159, (129 after MIR) vastly superior.
    why a TB hdd? save $25 and go 500gb allocating the coin into the video card.
    Asus Optical is fine.
    why spend $55 on a case, save $30 and allocate elsewhere, Apex for $22 or Gigabyte for $25 perfect.
    Antec VP-450 450watt has received huge review ratings for $2.00 more…. just plain a better PSU.

    your total was $588.92
    . my total is $556.92….it’s faster, more capable with a notably better PSU, you could even go with the more spendy case or larger HDD although I rarely ever recommend spending more on a case personally once it’s got front USB and Audio that’s all I look for.

      • Airmantharp
      • 7 years ago

      I have to tell you that I cringe every time I see your name on a post, but I’m responding here because you do make a few good points.

      Particularly, stretching to a better GPU while staying in the price bracket is always good, and a little more PSU power may help- just be careful of the efficiency there.

      In the Editor’s defense though, the Intel CPU is definitely faster than anything AMD can muster in the price range, although they are plenty fast in their own right. I also think that they do, as I do, prefer a little quality in their cases. Personally I just need the intakes to be filtered and the stock fans to not be loud in a cheap case. Hell, I don’t even care how much of my blood it takes as long as it doesn’t fall to pieces in a month or two.

      The rest of your suggestions seem to be personal trade-offs- 4GB of RAM is actually plenty and fine if you leave two slots open, and another 500GB for $25 really isn’t that big of a deal- I’d expect most people to need that space before they need the RAM, but everyone’s needs are different.

        • flip-mode
        • 7 years ago

        [quote<]The rest of your suggestions seem to be personal trade-offs[/quote<] Perfectly stated. You're much better at not sounding like a jerk than I am. The best I could muster was "AMD fanboy!". You're my mentor, now.

        • clone
        • 7 years ago

        np, I usually groan when I see one of yours.

        I agreed with the Intel cpu choice right along with the motherboard.

        8gb of ram offers an immediate improvement, some future proofing, the best cost per gb and is easier to sell at a later date…. 2X2gb dimms are a hard sell now, will always be at the minimum and buying more later will cost more later….. I can’t endorse 4gb.

        case: have owned a few overpriced cases including 2 Aluminum Lian Li’s, have learned that so long as they are black or close to it & have front USB & Audio the less spent the better.

        PSU efficiency: to me vapor, quality and capability trump efficiency by a huge margin.

        p.s. when I expressed a personal opinion I stated it was a personal one, criticism absurd.

          • DeadOfKnight
          • 7 years ago

          That’s funny, I normally don’t respond to Airman’s posts because he usually knows what he’s talking about and has everything covered so I don’t need to chime in. Suggesting to lower the HDD space just doesn’t make sense, if anything i’d suggest a 60GB SSD and a 2TB Green as recommended upgrades. Everyone needs a place for their media files. Also, I see no reason to cheap out on a case as it’s probably the longest-term investment you’re making out of all the components, but to each his own. GTX 460 1GB is cheaper (our editors don’t factor in MIR in these guides) and plenty of perfomance; it’s already listed in alternatives if you need it. I see your point in upgrading the RAM since it’s so cheap, but it really isn’t necessary.

            • clone
            • 7 years ago

            if their was no budget I’d agree but it’s a budget build with sub $600 as the target making your post weak, if MIR’s aren’t factored their is still room for the HD 6870 ($159) and the 8gb’s of ram (40) because of the money saved on the case and HDD.

            what I’ve found is that the same ppl who fill their 512gb hdd’s will fill their 1tb hdd’s with data they won’t use and are better served going with massive external/portable storage at a later date if their computing habits turn out to favor capacity, while ppl like to poo poo on less than 1tb, the reality is 250+ compressed movies can fit on one along with the OS apps and music which for an econobox…… not a specialized system which I’m sure many can wander in and rant about but a budget build is quite good and more than enough for someone to explore what they really want from their computer.

            DeadOfKnight saying it doesn’t make it true, that seems to be a problem with this board and you didn’t need to chime in.

            p.s. can’t recommend the GTX 460, I have one but it doesn’t bring the big improvement over an HD 7770 compared to the huge boost for the coin offered by HD 6870.

      • flip-mode
      • 7 years ago

      AMD fanboy! And a $22 Apex is an Epic Piece of Shat. No.

        • clone
        • 7 years ago

        I endorsed the Intel CPU choice and mobo making the comment empty overall if not …. for the sake of being polite, silly.

        having owned several overpriced cases including 2 Aluminum Lian Li’s, nowadays so long as they are black or close to it & have front USB / front Audio the less spent the better.

        I’m curious as to why you would call a $22 case with 4 front USB and Audio an “epic POS” given the vast majority of buyers at Newegg who actually own the case completely disagree and consider it a fantastic value.

          • flip-mode
          • 7 years ago

          I looked at the pics. It is a POS. Lot’s of people gave it 5 stars, so it’s a 5-star POS. The thing costs $22 so people are going to judge it in line with that price tag. If you gave people the choice of the Antec 300 or that $22 Apex case for the exact same price, [i<]no one[/i<] would choose the Apex. Because the Apex is a turd. The Antec uses better materials, has a better lay out, has better air flow, and has a better fit and finish. It is a higher quality case. I'm not interested in reading a computer guide on how to build the cheapest computer - that's F-ing easy. You go to Newegg and pick the cheapest parts to get the job done, the end. What TR does for these guides is assemble a list of quality parts and a few various price points. The [i<]overall purpose and goal[/i<] of the guide is NOT [i<]build as cheap as possible[/i<], rather it is to build the best possible at the given price point. That's my interpretation, at least.

            • clone
            • 7 years ago

            your position that it’s a 5 star pos is idiotic, the antec isn’t the same price making that comparison equally idiotic.

            the build I recommended is faster in every way than the TR build all while being less expensive and their is room in the budget to add more HDD space while still being less costly than the TR build.

            it’s about getting as much as possible, once certain criteria are met cases add nothing.

            • flip-mode
            • 7 years ago

            Are you trying to tell me that your opinion differs from mine? Inconceivable!

            • Deanjo
            • 7 years ago

            [url<]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D58LpHBnvsI[/url<]

            • clone
            • 7 years ago

            it’s a PC case ace, not a car.

            • flip-mode
            • 7 years ago

            I’ll interpret that response as a “YES”.

            • clone
            • 7 years ago

            nope, it’s not an exclusive discussion between you and I, those that chose to buy the Apex case disagree with you after they factored cost, quality, airflow, material with the consensus being the Apex is an excellent case….. you lose, agree to disagree, you can always hide behind that triviality, not that it matters.

            if the case had as many negatives as positives I wouldn’t have recommended it……if you figure out how to matter instead of pushing more dreck I may respond, if not it’s just more dreck.

            • flip-mode
            • 7 years ago

            You’re saying that the question “are you telling me your opinion differs from mine” is not exclusive to you and me? LOL, you’re such a jackwagon.

            • clone
            • 7 years ago

            saying it never applied and yep always considered you in the same light if not notably less so.

            you’ve lost this discussion at every level so far, hiding behind personal attacks just makes you look smaller.

            • flip-mode
            • 7 years ago

            Clone, I lost the moment I replied to you: Anyone who talks to you is a loser. [spoiler<][i<]Buuuuurrrrrnnnn![/i<] Alright, I'm done. Lose to you next time, winner.[/spoiler<]

            • clone
            • 7 years ago

            yet here you are, can’t stop yourself, gotta troll on Clone…. can’t stop…. lol.

            1st part: absolutely for valid reasons…. the reality is you made choices all along, you sought me out, you chose the tone, you chose to look silly, those were your choices, and now here you are crying about the results despite getting exactly what you asked for…. meh.

    • adisor19
    • 7 years ago

    Optical media is dead. I really don’t see why TR would recommend a Blueray burner or DVD drive. I can sort of swallow the 18$ for a DVD drive but Blueray is totally unnecessary.

    Adi

      • travbrad
      • 7 years ago

      I agree about Blu-ray as long as you aren’t going to be using it as a HTPC. I have a dedicated Blu-Ray player, and I’d much rather watch them on my 55″ TV sitting on the couch. Even on the dedicated player I watch a lot more streaming and mp4/mkv files than Blu-Rays though.

      It’s still nice to have a DVD drive for when you have those old install disks or moving DVDs on to a hard drive for watching over the network.

      • Airmantharp
      • 7 years ago

      Blu-ray still has its uses, even outside of home cinema. The ability to put 50GB in a small footprint that’s impervious to magnetic interference is still a big deal. It’s something my company has started doing when they ship software, and it’s significantly cheaper than shipping spinning disks that won’t be returned (flash media isn’t allowed).

        • travbrad
        • 7 years ago

        That’s a good use of Blu-Rays, but it doesn’t seem like something that really applies to home users (which is what this guide is aimed at). Most home users aren’t shipping out (or receiving) software on Blu-Ray discs. Even if they are most software will easily fit on a DVD+R DL. I can’t think of a single piece of software that won’t fit on a DVD+R DL apart from games, and retail copies of games still come on DVDs.

        Just getting another hard drive is much cheaper for personal local storage.

          • Airmantharp
          • 7 years ago

          Oh I know it’s a stretch to justify, I just don’t agree with Adi that ‘optical media is dead,’ and I especially don’t agree in not including a drive that can at least read all optical media in at least one machine you own.

        • rrr
        • 7 years ago

        It’s not so impervious to mechanical “interference” however (like scratching). Or waking up 2 years later to find that for some inexplicable reason disk refuses to be read.

      • Krogoth
      • 7 years ago

      Optical media is still the cheapest way to distribute physical media and I’m sure that many enthusiast still have a large collection of software and back-ups stored on optical media.

      Before you say on-line back-ups and cloud computing have replaced this, let me say one thing.

      Good luck trying to restore GBs worth of data with typical broadband connection (2-6Mbps downrate) within a reasonable timeframe and you better hope that your internet doesn’t go out either.

      • flip-mode
      • 7 years ago

      How to install Windows?

        • Firestarter
        • 7 years ago

        From a USB-stick: [url<]http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msstore/html/pbPage.Help_Win7_usbdvd_dwnTool[/url<]

          • flip-mode
          • 7 years ago

          Cool! I’m almost sold on the idea of ditching optical, but honestly I still need one – make backups of the kids music disks – the kids scratch disks constantly. Other than that I could make ISO images of any old software disks and use a virtual drive to install any of that.

            • Kurotetsu
            • 7 years ago

            I’m in a similar position. That’s why I’m considering getting a USB optical drive rather than a SATA one. I save a SATA port and its simple to plug in and use for the occasional times I need an optical drive.

            • Corrado
            • 7 years ago

            Thats what I did for the longest time, until I saw an open box BluRay burner in the clearance bin at MicroCenter for $46, so I bought that.

      • Deanjo
      • 7 years ago

      I don’t know about that. I turfed my dvd drives in favour of a bluray drive just to rip my bluray disks. Playing them off of a harddrive is more convenient and I don’t have to worry about the kids scratching the disks and they can be played anywhere on the network.

    • diocedrico@gmail.com
    • 7 years ago

    Hey Guys I’m surprised that you don’t mention the following display for the 2012 summer system guide: The ASUS VG278H 27IN 1080p 2MS 120HZ with Nvidida’s 3D Vision 2 Lightboost Glasses. It’s a damn good display and it includes the 3D Vision glasses from Nvidia for the folks who care about that stuff. The best part is the size and the 120Hz refresh rate. Check it out.

      • Airmantharp
      • 7 years ago

      I don’t think it wasn’t included due to a dislike for 120Hz screens or 3D, but rather due to a dislike for TN panels, of which all PC displays that support 3D are based on. Also, a 1080p, 27″ monitor has a fairly low DPI, which would also make it undesirable.

      What most here would be looking for, if I were to hazard a guess, would be an 8-bit IPS panel that supported a 120Hz input (3D or not) at a higher DPI, such as 2560×1440 at 27″, or 2560×1600 at 30″.

        • Firestarter
        • 7 years ago

        [quote<]8-bit IPS panel that supported a 120Hz input (3D or not) at a higher DPI[/quote<] SHUT UP AND TAKE MY MONEY!

    • rogue426
    • 7 years ago

    A nice update from the Memorial Day Guide. It’s good to see a K version in the sweet spot build this time around. I’m going to echo a few comments on mATX boards being chosen in upcoming builds too.

    • Arclight
    • 7 years ago

    Next gen console will boost HD 7850 level performance? Hard to believe given the form factor and inherent cooling and power issues.

    • juampa_valve_rde
    • 7 years ago

    I can’t believe how close i am to the sweet spot with my 3rd world rig having: a 3570k, 8 gb ddr3 1333, p8h77-m pro (couldnt get any better, no stock of z77), vertex 3 120 gb, and coming from my old rig a 6850 oc and a wd blue 640 gb. AWWSOME! 😀

    • Vasilyfav
    • 7 years ago

    You should recommend a bigger SSD for the sweet spot. With how cheap they are getting, a 60gb drive is no longer a sweet spot – it is the bare minimum for a boot drive.

    A sweet spot would be upwards of 120 gb (for ocz) and 128 for others.

    • rechicero
    • 7 years ago

    Probably the best of the last few guides. They stuck to the budgets and chose with common sense. I’d cut like $100 from the budgets and add a IGP option (maybe with Trinity in the future?), but that’s me, I’m a cheap bastard :-P.

    • superjawes
    • 7 years ago

    Nice to see updates on both the OS and Peripherals page!

    • flip-mode
    • 7 years ago

    Food for thought: I do wish mATX would get more love. There are at least a few great cases out there and several motherboards are fantastic. ATX is almost never necessary at this point. How about just trying to do the Sweet Spot with mATX? You could really do it – there’s no multi-GPU in there, no gang of disks either!

      • superjawes
      • 7 years ago

      Full ATX gives you some more options, though, and you generally won’t have to worry about cooler or video card sizes in an ATX tower. On top of that, regular ATX seems to have more alternatives available.

      That being said, though, I would be interested in reading a mATX system builders guide…actually, not even mATX. A full, small form-factor guide would be a great read. See how much power you can fit into a given footprint/volume =D

        • flip-mode
        • 7 years ago

        Silverstone TJ08-e will fit any video card and will fit any cooler, although you’ll have to place your 3.5″ HDD carefully when using large coolers. I don’t know about other mATX cases, but I’m sure that the TJ08-e isn’t the only one that fits those things.

        But sure, mid or full ATX gives you more space and you cant fit more things in when you have more space, but the point was that it really is almost never necessary to have that much space. If you’re going to go with (the not recommended) SLI or XF then you won’t want mATX. If you’re going to need more than 4 drives then mATX is too limiting. But those are the only limitations I can think of – more than one GPU or more than 4 drives (and even the 4 drive limit can be extended if you use the external bays.

          • superjawes
          • 7 years ago

          Why would anyone thumb us down for these?

          And yeah, I agree with your sentiments and practicality. I was just trying to point out that the options you get from “proper” ATX weighs a little heavier…especially with enthusiasts. Although with other interesting things happening, [url=https://techreport.com/discussions.x/23186#metal<]like in this Lian-Li case,[/url<] I think that smaller form factors could be very interesting in future builds/building guides.

            • flip-mode
            • 7 years ago

            I don’t know. Airmantharp and I got thumbed down on earlier posts too for absolutely no apparent reason. I bumped you +1 for what it’s worth.

            • superjawes
            • 7 years ago

            Same. Guess someone doesn’t like hardware discourse :p

      • Airmantharp
      • 7 years ago

      Something I just thought of, but haven’t seen discussed much:

      You can get mATX boards with mPCI card slots for wireless modules, which means both that you don’t have to burn a slot on an adapter, and that you can get Intel’s excellent wireless modules in your desktop machine.

      That being that, you can easily stick in any GPU and still have room for a discrete soundcard and something else, like an HDTV tuner or CableCard adapter.

      I’m not seeing a downside here.

        • JustAnEngineer
        • 7 years ago

        I’ve been saying for years that micro-ATX offers everything that the PC gaming enthusiast needs.
        I’m currently rocking a P8Z77-M Pro and a P8Z68-M Pro here.

          • Airmantharp
          • 7 years ago

          That I can attest to; and hell, I wish I’d been paying closer attention.

          My Define R3 isn’t mATX for sure, but it’s about as small as ATX can be, and still fit everything that it does. If I didn’t want to play current games on a 30″ 1600p monitor though, mATX (or mITX!) would be under my desk right now.

            • JustAnEngineer
            • 7 years ago

            [url<]http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8Z77M_PRO/[/url<] Are two 8x PCIe 3.0 slots not sufficient for your Crossfire/SLI needs? If you confine yourself to a single graphics card, you've still got room on this motherboard for a sound card and a tuner card.

            • Airmantharp
            • 7 years ago

            Oh it is, the only issue with mATX there (and I did consider it) was that at the time of Sandy Bridge and Z68, mPCIe wasn’t as nearly as common, and my desire for a discrete sound card pushed me up to ATX.

            If I really wanted to downsize, I’d build that SFF I’ve always wanted, but I think that will have to wait for the next upgrade :).

          • Corrado
          • 7 years ago

          I just recently went back to ATX after YEARS of mATX builds, and the only reason was I went CrossFire and had a PCI Xonar DG. I couldn’t find a mATX board that would fit 2 7850’s AND had a PCI slot at all, let alone that wasn’t blocked by 2 double wide video card coolers.

            • Airmantharp
            • 7 years ago

            Yup- mATX works well with an mPCIe slot for WLAN, and it works great for small stature water-cooling on the GPUs, where you gain the space for a sound card, and something else if you need it.

    • XTF
    • 7 years ago

    [quote<]The biggest thing on the horizon is probably Windows 8,[/quote<] Really? I'd expect the GTX 660 to be more relevant to a lot of people (gamers). Some competition in the mid range would be nice. Prices for 7850/70 could drop as a result.

      • Majiir Paktu
      • 7 years ago

      Not sure why this is getting downvotes. The guide pointed out several times that there’s a big gap in the Nvidia lineup, one that a GTX 660 would fill nicely at the $225 range. Windows 8 just isn’t relevant to the vast majority of buyers who are looking at this guide.

        • superjawes
        • 7 years ago

        Probably because Windows 8 is going to affect everyone (even if it just means Gerbils will be passing on it), and the 660 will be replaced by something before Windows 8 is replaced.

    • shank15217
    • 7 years ago

    Wouldn’t 7870 crossfire under 300×2 be a better deal for editor’s choice?

      • Firestarter
      • 7 years ago

      Have you not been paying attention to TR’s GPU reviews? Once you look at the performance of multi-GPU setups in a detailed manner instead of just looking at the average FPS, you see that a single GPU is the better choice most of the time.

        • Deanjo
        • 7 years ago

        That’s pretty much been the case since multicard configs came out. Single cards usually offer better power consumption, less heat, no microstuddering, no waiting for a profile to be created for apps, etc.

      • Airmantharp
      • 7 years ago

      To add a subjective firsthand opinion, I went from two HD6950’s, about the same performance as what you’re suggesting, to a single GTX670, and the difference was night and day.

      At the time, the HD6950’s were the least expensive option for getting playable framerates on a 30″ 1600p monitor, and they’re still technically faster than a single GTX670, but my experience has been completely opposite. The GTX670 is faster and smoother, by far, and I wouldn’t go back.

    • Arag0n
    • 7 years ago

    I believe that an IGP only system should be considered for the system guide…. GPU´s are all nice, but some people is starting to build systems relying only in IGP for gaming. Sure they don´t play the latest, but they play casual-old games like Counter Strike, WOW, League of Legends, Dota 2, etc. Hardcore gamers aren´t the single kind of PC gamers in this world…

      • Majiir Paktu
      • 7 years ago

      The Intel lineup puts the high-end integrated GPUs in high-end CPUs. Personally, I’m running a 3770 and using the integrated GPU, but someone stuck with the HD2500 might not be so happy.

      Then again, the 3570K has an HD4000, so if you take the Sweet Spot, ditch the GPU and sound card, and replace the case/PSU with the ones from the Econobox, you’ve got yourself a nice system for $692 that can play a lot of games. You could even keep the PSU from the Sweet Spot and stay future-proofed for a later upgrade (GPU).

      • flip-mode
      • 7 years ago

      So drop the video card from any one of those builds. Remember, these guides are just [i<]guides[/i<] and we're all free to make any and ever modification to them we wish. If TR tossed in an IGP build I imagine it would be exactly the same as the Econobox but without a video card. It would be crazy to write up a duplicate page sans video card for that.

        • Arag0n
        • 7 years ago

        You can call it the stingy-box, but there is a real possibility to build PC towers for less than 500$ and maybe also 400$ that can be good enough for plenty casual gamers.

          • flip-mode
          • 7 years ago

          Again, I say: Tell me how it would be any different from dropping the video card from the Econobox. If it’s just a copy of the Econobox sans the video, then how’s it worth a whole entire page? It doesn’t make any sense.

            • Arag0n
            • 7 years ago

            Lower TDP means lower needs for Power, then cheaper PSU. No GPU also means smaller motherboards with less PCI-E lanes are required and the sound/video outputs of the motherboard become a critical point for choosing. As said somewhere else, no GPU may increase the value for the IGP and make the A8-3870 and future Trinity APU´s the choice for that category. Lower TDP and fewer components can also change the size and choice of the case.

            Is it enough reasons?

            • Airmantharp
            • 7 years ago

            I’m not going to disagree that an IGP-only option might be interesting (and have said so elsewhere), but there are a few holes in your argument here:

            With the PSU, you’re not going to get something less expensive without also sacrificing quality, regardless of wattage.

            With motherboard size, you can run an ATX board with an IGP, and an mITX board with a dual-GPU card, and it makes no difference. With the addition of an mPCIe slot on mITX boards, you have everything you need. If you’re concerned about audio quality, you get an external DAC, and you’re done.

            Enclosure sizes definitely place a limitation on the computing power/noise ratio, but not to a degree that it would have an appreciable effect, in most cases. If you’re going for something that cannot fit a discrete GPU, then you’ve jumped into another category altogether.

            • Arag0n
            • 7 years ago

            The point is, there is more things in the equation than just “drop the GPU from the econobox”…. im in the situation right now that I want a general propose workstation. I work with Visual Studio and web-browsers to do info-searching mainly, so most of CPU power for me is useless. Still, I want to be able to play some game once everywhile, but I’m not gonna invest into that functionality. That’s why my needs are served with a econobox, but I wouldn´t like to pay for a GPU, so it makes me willing to bite the AMD cake with Llano, specially with Trinity once it launches. Still, I want to try to avoid any purchase till Q3 once all ivy bridge cpu´s, trinity and vishera are all in market so I can get better for the same money or just the same as now for significant less money.

            • Airmantharp
            • 7 years ago

            Oh I agree with you- I just think it needs to be a separate build, leaving the Econobox where it is.

            • Arag0n
            • 7 years ago

            Sure, that´s why I say that should be considered for the system guide. It doesn´t have to replace any current recommendations.

            • rechicero
            • 7 years ago

            You’re right, and maybe the guide could be segmented for “gaming-CPU perf”. Something like:

            Bottom feeder: Good for office-internet-basic things, can do occasionally something like encoding. Good for casual games and 720p medium-low detail. IGPs. Tightest budget.

            Econobox: Next step in CPU. Good for 1080p gaming medium detail. Tight budget.

            Sweetspot: The best bang for buck, directly from the scatter plots.

            Dreambox: Simply the best. Period. No matter the cost.

            Just my 2 cents.

            And yes, you can buy a Bottom feeder from Dell, but the guide would be useful even for choosing the right Dell ;-).

            • flip-mode
            • 7 years ago

            That sounds like a small form factor build a.k.a. mITX. There is one of those in this guide, but it’s about twice the price of the Econobox, and it sounds like you’re looking for a mini-Econobox.

            It’s not a bad idea. At some point the guide will reach a limit with respect to how many different builds can be incorporated into the article.

            My other worry with a mini-Econobox is that at that low price range it will not have the best build quality. I’ve looked at cheap mITX cases and even cheap mATX cases and there pretty horrible.

          • superjawes
          • 7 years ago

          1. If you feel strongly that TR needs a “stingy-box” guide, try posting something fleshed out in the forums. I’m sure you’d even get helpful suggestions from fellow gerbils.

          2. Those computers you’re talking about for casual gamers…you can buy them from HP and Dell.

            • Firestarter
            • 7 years ago

            [quote<]you can buy them from HP and Dell.[/quote<] And probably cheaper too!

            • superjawes
            • 7 years ago

            And with more features*!

            *Bloatware

            • Airmantharp
            • 7 years ago

            Hell, you can get a laptop that does all that, same setup. HD4000 should be able to handle casual games at 1080p at low/medium settings. AMD’s offerings would be even faster. Just use an external display.

        • rechicero
        • 7 years ago

        That’s not the case, without a discrete card, some of the choices might be different. E.g. The A8-3870 is not even an alternative for the Econobox right now, but in a discrete-less rig, it would be probably the first choice…

          • flip-mode
          • 7 years ago

          That’s a valid argument but I’d argue against that choice. The CPU is first and foremost a CPU, and the IGP remains a gimpy gaming solution. I would never slight the CPU just to get a “better” gimpy IGP. But if that’s what TR’s recommendation would be for a computer without a dedicated video card then it would at least merit its own page.

            • rechicero
            • 7 years ago

            Well, I said “probably” ;-). This is my reasoning:

            I have a good old E8400 and it’s more than enough for everything I use. The A8-3850 is pretty much equivalent performance-wise (better for some loads, worse for others):

            [url<]http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/56?vs=399[/url<] Of course there are people that actually need the extra CPU performance of the i3, but 90% of people won't notice in real life workloads. And if you try even casual gaming, the overall experience will be better with the A8. Of course, there are different needs and that's why is great to have different approaches. If you won't need GPU power, the i3 is much better. If you are going to use the GPU, the A8 might be the best option. Edit: Anyway I wanted to clarify that what I meant is that the A8 would go from "not even an alternative" in a discrete GPU scenario to "candidate to first place" without a discrete card. I didn't want to say the A8 would be the best choice hands down, just a contender, great for some needs, worse for others.

    • Bensam123
    • 7 years ago

    Still going to suggest that pretty much all the price categories need a price drop. Console category is neat, not sure how well it matches up when people pin it against consoles and the intro prices associated with them (believe the X360 intro’d at $400 iirc).

      • flip-mode
      • 7 years ago

      Just because? I’d like the prices to stay exactly where they’re at. Or just to play devil’s advocate – what if they adjusted for inflation – i.e. increased the category prices?

      [url=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16868105042<]Here is your $200 X Box 360[/url<]. It's got about 1/20th (at best) the hardware power that the Econobox has but at 2/5 the price, so that's a [i<]very[/i<] crummy price/performance ratio. Also, it won't surf the web, charges you to connect to even free video services, and it won't run any of your other applications or let you check your email - and even if you could check your email, replying would be insanity with the joy stick keyboard. Oh, and games usually cost more for the X Box. Comparing any computer build to the X Box 360 is an utterly worthless comparison. It's like comparing a house to a gazebo - they're meant for entirely different things and have entirely different price structures.

        • Bensam123
        • 7 years ago

        I would say the majority of people don’t look at things in terms of inflation nor would they base a purchase off of it. Why do you think they still have dollar menus at fast food places even though prices have increased quite a bit since they were first intro’d?

        Perhaps there is a fundamental difference between people who are well off and those that aren’t. $100 or $200 means a lot for some people. The econobox is stepping into midgrade territory, which really isn’t a econobox at all. Not just that, people are more likely to utilize the guide when there are well defined and separated price points as well, rather then just adding $200 more to the price tag.

        A HTPC build, barebones build, workstation, midgrade, and the console (which could retroactively change to adapt to whatever the next gen system is and match it) are a good example of this. Each one has a specific scope compared to products that just fit at a certain price range.

        Not sure where the whole console bit fit into all of this. I was solely comparing the two prices for the sake of that specific categories niche.

          • flip-mode
          • 7 years ago

          $500 for a computer is absolutely an Econobox – especially one with a discrete graphics card. But, whatever. This is the same discussion we had last time. If you want to see a [i<]Guide to Building a Piece of Spit[/i<], I suppose that's none of my business.

    • Kretschmer
    • 7 years ago

    It seems silly to suggest a 1GB XFX 7850 for $230 + $8 shipping when 2GB 7850s are either net $3 cheaper (XFX), net $2 more (Visiontek/HIS), net $9 more (Sapphire), etc cetera. You are currently very close to your $1000 limit, but dropping $5 anywhere else makes more sense for a gaming rig. A slightly louder enclosure or a few less USB 3.0 ports is well worth it when the alternative is crippling your medium-term graphics performance.

      • Airmantharp
      • 7 years ago

      That’s something I didn’t notice- but it’s also a six of one, half a dozen of the other kind of situation.

      Essentially, the build is for 1080p, and you wouldn’t really want to game on anything bigger with an HD7850, regardless of VRAM capacity. For 1080p, 1GB is more than sufficient, which means that putting one’s money into getting a quieter card probably makes more sense, and that’s the direction the Editor’s went.

      Also, while I agree that putting 2GB on an HD7850 isn’t the kind of overkill that putting say 4GB on a GTX640 would be, it’s still overkill; unless it costs you next to nothing, you’re burning money.

        • Kretschmer
        • 7 years ago

        The 1GB RAM is extra value for no appreciable price premium at all, as it can be had at par or cheaper than the selected model.

        And based on the 2GB XFX Core model, that particular card is terribly unreliable. You can get an HIS 2GB ICEQ for $2 more shipped with an excellent cooler…it’s an easy fix that will add plenty of legs to the build.

          • Airmantharp
          • 7 years ago

          If the 2GB model is just as quiet, then you’re absolutely right. The video card is usually the loudest part in a gaming system though, so if it is appreciably louder (that’s definitely subjective), then adding noise to add memory that won’t be used is a fairly silly decision.

    • flip-mode
    • 7 years ago

    Nice guide. Nice to see TechReport responding to comments from last time.

    I’d take the Sweet Spot, and swap the mobo and case for:
    P8Z77-m Pro
    Silverstone TJ08-e

    The price would be about the same in a smaller and much nicer looking enclosure.

    Then I’d drop the audio, swap the HD 7850 for a FirePro V4900, and swap 2x 4 GB for 2x 8 GB.

    Result: Boss CAD Station.

      • Airmantharp
      • 7 years ago

      Nice tweak of the Sweet Spot for professional use!

    • guardianl
    • 7 years ago

    I really like the sweeter spot config.

    Also, the Intel 3570K @ Newegg is actually $15 cheaper with promo code: EMCNDHB34 making it even sweeter 🙂

    • Duck
    • 7 years ago

    The Econobox CPU should be something like a Pentium G840 or an A4-3400 in my opinion.

      • derFunkenstein
      • 7 years ago

      why? I mean, I get the G840 – it’s pretty darn fast. But no way I’d get an A4-3400.

        • Duck
        • 7 years ago

        Why? Because it is much cheaper. The Core i3 is over twice the price.

        The A4-3400 is the AMD alternative. Such is the way of these TR system guides. You’d probably want it over the Pentium if you were not going to have a discrete graphics card.

          • Airmantharp
          • 7 years ago

          +1 because you’re right, but as discussed in other posts, such a CPU belongs in a different build :).

          • derFunkenstein
          • 7 years ago

          First of all, the dual-core Pentiums are not half the price of a Core i3. It’s more like $30. Second of all, you give up first some raw speed (which you will never get back due to the OC limits of Sandy Bridge) and then you also give up HyperThreading. That’s a lot to give up for just a few bucks.

            • Corrado
            • 7 years ago

            The dual core pentium can be picked up for $49.99 @ MicroCenter, and the i3 2100 is $89.99. Sure, its only $40, but its still almost half the cost. That $40 can go towards a MUCH nicer video card or a bigger SSD or a better power supply.

      • MadManOriginal
      • 7 years ago

      Not for the expressed purpose of the Econobox: [quote<]The Econobox may be the baby of the bunch, but it can handle a little bit of everything, including modern games in all their glory. We haven't scraped the bottom of the bargain bin or cut any corners, resulting in a surprisingly potent budget build.[/quote<] What would be interesting is an even lower cost 'bare minimum' system...call it the Parent Box, used for basic general use - internet, email, general office tasks, and no gaming. A Pentium G840 or other low-end CPU would be appropriate for such uses if every dollar counts. It would be fun to see how cheap such a box could be without getting poor quality components. A number of years ago I put together an Athlon 64 x2 system for my parents for under $300 for the core components (no peripherals or OS) and it's still fine for them today. Maybe $250?

        • Airmantharp
        • 7 years ago

        I’d like to see this too, if the Editors find the interest and time for it.

        Some miniscule mATX or mITX solution would be pretty neat!

          • MadManOriginal
          • 7 years ago

          mITX is sadly more expensive than mATX, probably because of production volume, so mATX would be best.

            • Airmantharp
            • 7 years ago

            Oh no doubt, but I consider it an option- if you don’t have to have a discrete GPU, mITX can pay for itself in size by being not terribly larger than a modem or router; I guess that having one of each would be the best of both worlds.

            • Bensam123
            • 7 years ago

            Shop around Newegg… You can find mITX motherboards under $100 as well as cheap cases around $50. There really is no reason to use micro-atx over mini-itx unless you need the extra slots, you could just shift up to a normal atx case at that point though.

          • flip-mode
          • 7 years ago

          This guide has an mITX build.

            • Airmantharp
            • 7 years ago

            But it’s not a ‘budget’ mITX build; I guess I should have specified that I was looking for something the size of a DVD player :).

            • flip-mode
            • 7 years ago

            No, it’s not a budget build. I risk incurring Clone’s wrath when I say this: you’re guaranteed to own a POS if you try to do mITX on the cheap.

            Anyway, why would you get voted down for that? I’ll fix that…

        • Duck
        • 7 years ago

        No. Bare minimum would be something more like a Celeron G540. Although you can get more bare minimum than that.

        The Pentium G840 can handle a little bit of everything including modern games.

          • MadManOriginal
          • 7 years ago

          Way to not see the forest for the trees.

        • Kurotetsu
        • 7 years ago

        My opinion on a $300 Parent Box hasn’t changed from the last time somebody brought that up. It makes little sense to DIY a computer for that price range and for those uses. A pre-built Dell or HP box would give you much better value as well as an actual warranty and tech support that your parents can turn to in case something breaks (unless you WANT to volunteer to be both, and I’ve yet to meet anyone who does).

        Come to think of it, I think it would be interesting if Tech Report reviewed a few nice pre-builts for people on a very low budget. I think it was JustAnEngineer who linked to a few on the forums that looked interesting.

          • MadManOriginal
          • 7 years ago

          This is a good point to consider, especially when considering OS cost it’s hard to beat inexpensive boxes from big vendors. Some people do like the DIY route anyway, my Dad doesn’t ‘trust’ the big vendors to use quality components and that’s not entirely unfounded. You can also get a longer warranty buying retail parts, perhaps adding in extended warranty costs should be part of the ‘build’.

          • superjawes
          • 7 years ago

          Don’t know why the down thumbs here…I think you hit it on the nose for pre-builts. I know [i<]we[/i<] don't like them, but we also self-diagnose problems and prefer clean Windows installs. Someone looking to spend less than that would probably prefer to let someone else fix their problems (which is where HP and Dell support come in) and you basically get the copy of Windows for free. You would just need a checklist to cleanup the junkware. The only exception to that is someone who can't stand these vendors or doesn't trust them (which I think has already been mentioned), in which case you can hop in the forums to get the pieces you need.

        • superjawes
        • 7 years ago

        I’d love to read an “alternative” system guide as well. Very low costs systems could still be fun, but the big picture would be good for looking at other sizes and components in systems, like mATX, mITX, and generally small systems that still can pack a punch without bursting into flames.

      • Airmantharp
      • 7 years ago

      Getting a cheaper AMD solution here makes very little sense, which the author explained- the CPU performance is slow, and the inclusion of a discrete GPU negates and advantage an integrated GPU might provide.

      Further, while the G840 is certainly a little less expensive, for that price you give up at least:
      -Hyper-threading, which provides a much larger boost in performance for a dual-core CPU
      -Quicksync on the HD2000, which is in-arguably a useful feature for a consumer PC
      -AVX support, which will matter more in the future as the successor (essentially) of SSE

      For basic computing tasks, dropping to the Pentium, or dropping the discrete GPU in favor of an AMD Fusion CPU does make sense, I agree. The thing is, the Econobox can play real games with decent settings, and any compromise in component choice will very quickly degrade that capability.

        • Duck
        • 7 years ago

        The AMD CPU’s performance is slower, not slow. It would be an OK choice over the Pentium if you were not going to use a discrete graphics card.

        The G840 is not a little less expensive. The Core i3 is over twice the price (it was ~3x the price at one point I think).

        Hyper-threading increases power consumption slightly and reduces performance slightly. Hardly a big loss. Yes, I know it’s advantages. But The Econobox is not designed to be a workstation class PC, is it?

        Quicksync and AVX are not very valuable features. In a few years maybe you will have a bit of extra performance in a couple of your apps if your CPU happens to support AVX. But not having it is hardly a deal breaker.

          • Airmantharp
          • 7 years ago

          +1: I took one perspective, and you effectively took the other, giving me something to think about :).

          The ‘slow’ comment is more of a judgement on AMD across the line- they’ve maintained their minimum of one performance generation gap behind Intel for years now. At the low end though, they do present a good value argument, in pure price vs. effective performance.

          I didn’t really look at the hard prices between the Pentium and the i3, and you’re right, the Pentium is quite a bit cheaper while still providing plenty of performance. The extra features, though, I think might be worth the difference.

          Hyper-threading, for the dual-core CPUs, makes a much larger difference than it does in the quad-cores, just based on OS and application optimization. The ability to keep four threads active is still much more prevalent in today’s software than the ability to keep eight threads active, and at the speeds that the quad-cores reach, especially with decent overclocking, other parts of the system quickly become bottlenecks, masking any further advantage that Hyper-threading could bring to those parts.

          Quicksync is obviously very specific, but it does work amazingly well. Having used it on my HD3000 and HD4000 equipped machines, I’d have to insist that anyone who does a fair bit of video conversion for Youtube or otherwise takes a long hard look at ensuring they get a CPU with it.

          AVX is arguably the least important in the list, I agree. I added it because it stood out as one of the differences, and might make a difference to someone.

            • Duck
            • 7 years ago

            Quicksync has it’s downsides too. If you need bloated and expensive Cyberlink software to take advantage of it, then it’s very unappealing. Since you probably have a discrete GPU with the monitor plugged into that, I would be looking for a transcode utility that could leverage OpenCL for acceleration, or something along those lines.

            Ideally, twice the price should buy you twice the CPU. A quad core 2.8GHz CPU like the Core i5-2300 for example, not a dual core i3. When viewed in this light, the Pentium G840 is clearly noticeably better value for money than the Core i3 and i5. The Econobox should be the ideal home for such an affordable and high value component.

            • Airmantharp
            • 7 years ago

            Name a solution that works as well and as fast as Quicksync.

            MediaEspresso may be Cyberlink, but I don’t find it to be ‘bloated’, as compared to say PowerDVD.

            The main takeaway isn’t the software- it’s that the solution works, and adds real value. I haven’t heard of any OpenCL solutions, or GPU accelerated solutions really, that do what Quicksync does; not that the other two vendors aren’t trying. They’re just not there yet, and Quicksync works now.

        • Bensam123
        • 7 years ago

        Shit G’ma is tearing it up on FB. She needs that hyperthreading goodness to load a couple dozen profiles at once… Not just that, but she needs to encode her 1080p videos too! As well as AVX for those days when she wants to do some hardcore number crunching.

        It’s amazing how shortsighted a lot of people are. I understand when something has more bells and whistles, but you have to put things into context when you generalize to the bigger picture.

          • Kurotetsu
          • 7 years ago

          I’ve been trying to convince myself not to response to this, but I take issue whenever somebody brings their tech illiterate relative into discussions like this, which is very, VERY often on this site. I take issue because it usually winds up completely defeating the point of the discussion (and the website in general).

          [quote=”Bensam123″<]I understand when something has more bells and whistles, but you have to put things into context when you generalize to the bigger picture.[/quote<] Good idea, let's do that. By dragging grandma kicking and screaming into the discussion, its stops being about whether we should get a Core i3, Pentium or Celeron for her custom built desktop that will largely be doing jack and crap. If your grandma just needs something to dick around on Facebook with, then she doesn't need a desktop at all. She especially does NOT need a DIYed desktop, which introduces its own set of problems that are unrelated to performance that she won't be equipped to deal with. Just get her an iPad (or, even better, any one of the $199 tablets that are coming out) with a bluetooth keyboard. This will make her MUCH happier than a box sitting on the floor and it will still fulfill all her Facebooking needs. If your tech illiterate relative is doing something that actually requires a desktop (Facebook/Twitter/Angry Birds/<insert_any_activity_that_can_be_served_by_a_mobile_device_here> doesn't count), then they can dragged into the discussion.

            • Bensam123
            • 7 years ago

            She doesn’t need her relative to build her a cheap computer? She doesn’t want to use it for more then media consumption? Tablets aren’t exactly friendly for writing anything lengthy on it.

            Don’t push your ideals on someone elses gma. Not everyones gma has a foot in the grave and you wouldn’t be any more likely to give them tech then knives to a toddler.

            And no, writing emails still doesn’t require hyperthreading, AVX, or encoding capabilities. And for reference, my dad writes emails quite regularly to his family and browses the web. Using a tablet to write anything is killer. Hooking a keyboard up to one pretty much makes it a crappy laptop. Even looking at just browsing the net and doing some desktop applications like excel, they STILL don’t need those features.

      • superjawes
      • 7 years ago

      Since the price is what they’re trying to hit, I disagree. $600 means more performance.

      On the other hand, if they were to try an Econo-Econobox (Econobox Lite?), then they could try cheaper processors and all, but that, I think, would be more of a challenge in getting as much gaming as possible out of the cheapest of cheap builds.

    • chuckula
    • 7 years ago

    The cooler recommendations are OK, but has TR had a big cooler roundup in recent memory? For example, the Noctua NH-U12P is out of stock at Newegg, and your reviews seem to be from some time ago. (Edit: I checked and your air-vs-water cooler showdown just turned 3 years old… there have been some major platform updates and new cooler models that have shown up since that review).

    I’ve seen reviews on other sites where the bigger air coolers can meet or beat even the triple-fan H-100 liquid coolers, so I’d like to see TR’s take on how these compare.

      • Airmantharp
      • 7 years ago

      Without any concrete reviews (I’ve read plenty, and agree that we need updated ones as well), the perspective I’ve formed is that the traditional tower coolers and the integrated water-coolers generally perform about the same; you do have to be discerning about your choice, but they are thermally equivalent.

      The real difference I see is not cooling performance or noise, rather a question of where you want the heat to go.

      In an open-air case with good airflow across the CPU area, a less-expensive air cooler such as CoolerMaster’s Hyper 212 Evo will be very hard to beat- one of the larger, silent coolers from the likes of Noctua would be perfect.

      In a closed case with positive airflow, best example being Silverstone’s Fortress FT-02, an integrated water-cooler would probably be more efficient due to the enclosure’s greater static pressure. This is what I do with my H60 in my Define R3; all six fan positions are utilized, and they’re all set to intake. The result is a deadly silent system that runs cool overclocked while being immune to dust.

    • Airmantharp
    • 7 years ago

    Very, very good guide. Quite a bit of constructive criticism from the last guide and/or observation of threads from the System Builders section in the forums appears to have bled through!

    Things I liked- The econobox is awesome. $600 for a functional machine (sans OS) that can play real games is something to behold.

    I like that the Sweet Spot manages to keep the performance it does while staying under $1000. There isn’t a part to argue about there!

    I like the Editor’s Choice even more. If I were to make a build recommendation, that would be it, with possible tweaks to the enclosure. Thank you for recognizing how little Hyperthreading adds to a gaming build with an unlocked CPU! Once sufficiently overclocked, that extra $100 is simply money blowing in the wind.

    Also, while I like the Double Stuff- especially with the inclusion of the 6-core CPU- the jibe at dual GPUs doesn’t sit well with me. If someone were to run any surround setup, they’ll be approaching 6MP, which is still beyond the rendering capabilities of today’s fastest single-GPU cards when running demanding games at decent settings. Hell, I’d have to get a second GTX670 just to turn on MSAA in BF3 at 4MP!

    Instead of avoiding a recommendation, may I suggest that the best/smoothest/least micro-stuttery solution get a mention? I’d think that a pair of GTX670s (or whatever lower end cards based on GK104 arrive) might be the smoothest option. I think it’s worth looking into.

    Last on the Double Stuff- the H80 is just about the best recommendation you can make. When set to Low, it’s both quieter than the H60 and H100, and outperforms the H60 in cooling capacity. It is the quiet performance option, and should run any Intel consumer CPU at ~5GHz in near silence.

    From the general recommendations page: The CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ has been upgraded to the Hyper 212 Evo, which sports a quieter fan, and the price difference is negligible, if there is one.

    For the keyboard section, I recommend adding a discussion (or link) to the different kinds of mechanical switches, particularly the Cherry switches. I’m personally looking for a well-built, back-lit, Cherry Brown equipped keyboard. I want something precise, fast, and tactile, while also being quiet- having some information there for the uninformed might prevent people from ordering Razer’s Blackwidow and having to suffer with it’s noise, like I am!

      • JustAnEngineer
      • 7 years ago

      Overall, this looks like a very good system guide.

      I agree that the Econobox is excellent, and I’m glad to see that they stayed under $600. As others have suggested, they could get this down under $550 with a bit of scrimping.

      In the sweet spot, I have only a couple of quibbles. I’d choose a PCIe sound card like the Asus Xonar DGX over the PCI Asus Xonar DG.
      I’m not sold on the 60 GB OCZ SSD. I’d probably go for a 120-128 GB SSD from another manufacturer there.

      On page 13, it should probably be mentioned that Windows 7 Home Premium is limited to 16 GiB of memory while the Professional and Ultimate editions can support as much RAM as your motherboard can hold.

      On page 14, thee Radeon HD7xxx cards also support quad-monitor Eyefinity if that’s what you want to do.

        • MadManOriginal
        • 7 years ago

        The way I see SSDs, especially with recent price crashing, is this:

        60-80GB for ‘basic’ needs – OS, a few office applications etc.Still a massive upgrade from spinning drives.
        120gb minimum if you want to insall any large application, mainly games especially newer ones, a preferably larger unless you are fine having a somewhat limited number installed.

        HDD for media and mass storage. If perhaps you have external drives or network storage of some type this might not even be needed.

          • Airmantharp
          • 7 years ago

          Just to talk about price crashing- I picked up a pair of Verbatim 128GB SSDs that use a lesser know controller, but saturate their SATA2 connection and are reportedly reliable. I paid $65 each for them from Directron, which listed them in a sale thread over at the [H]. One is going to my brother, and I’ll find a use for the other- it might go in a USB3 enclosure as a large, fast external storage device.

        • Airmantharp
        • 7 years ago

        I’ll second your recommendation for a PCIe soundcard, given that Intel deprecated the PCI controller and thus the likleyhood of PCI slots continuing to appear on newer boards drops exponentially each generation.

        For SSDs, I understand the choice of a smaller unit in order to compromise on price/performance, but like you, I wouldn’t (and haven’t yet) purchased one smaller than 120GB. I find 120GB the perfect working size when backed up by an HDD; without an HDD, I’d consider 240GB as the minimum.

        I’d also go Crucial (or other Micron-based) or Samsung before I’d go Sandforce, but that’s just me. My M4 is so fast that it’s hard for me to imagine something that would actually ‘feel’ faster.

        For the GPU section, I’ll add that a discussion of TDMS transmitters on the various GPUs is in order. I don’t know of any GPU that supports more than two TDMS signals, which means that there isn’t any way to support more than two HDMI/DVI panels without using a DP adapter. With that, a discussion of active/passive and single/dual-link DP adapters is probably also in order.

          • JustAnEngineer
          • 7 years ago

          There’s no need to discuss “passive” DisplayPort to DVI/HDMI adapters. You either need active adapters for monitors three and up or…

          [b<]just buy monitors with DisplayPort inputs.[/b<]

        • Duck
        • 7 years ago

        [quote<]On page 13, it should probably be mentioned that Windows 7 Home Premium is limited to 16 GiB of memory while the Professional and Ultimate editions can support as much RAM as your motherboard can hold.[/quote<] When I tried to bring that up in the past, I got quite a few downvotes for it.

          • Krogoth
          • 7 years ago

          Minor nitpick, Windows 7 Professional and Ultimate as well as its their Windows 8 counterparts can only handle up to 192GiB of memory. Granted that going beyond 192GiB of memory requires a high-end server board. However, if memory densities continue to increase at their current rate. Going beyond 192GiB on a desktop board might be not too far-fetched in the near-future.

            • JustAnEngineer
            • 7 years ago

            The Z77 motherboards in the guide have four DDR3 slots. 8 GiB PC3-12800 DIMMs are priced reasonably. It’s not at all hard to get to 4×8 = 32 GiB with motherboards that most of us are likely to buy.

            The extreme P9X79 Pro has eight DDR3 slots, so we’re looking at 8×8 = 64 GiB.

    • derFunkenstein
    • 7 years ago

    Since this guide has a HTPC included, now my brain is working. If I’m on Comcast, do I have to get a tuner with a cablecard slot? Who do I get the cablecard from? We don’t have a DVR but I’ve pondered adding DVR capabilities to my PC.

      • Airmantharp
      • 7 years ago

      Call Comcast :).

      Most likely, they will be the ones to provide the cablecard to you- if that’s how they work in your region. You’ll have to get a breakdown for what service levels they will provide to you through the coaxial feed directly, and what they’ll allow you to view using a cablecard.

        • derFunkenstein
        • 7 years ago

        Yeah, I suppose that’s the way to go. They don’t do much through plain coax anymore. We had to get this (free to use) box that let us get even basic cable for the bedroom TV. I have a feeling I’ll need the cablecard.

      • JustAnEngineer
      • 7 years ago

      You buy a cablecard tuner (I have the Ceton InfiniTV4) on-line. You pick up the cablecard at your local Comcast office. You bring it home, plug it in, then call Comcast to activate it. Ten minutes later, you’ve got HD television on your PC. You’ll have to download and run the digital cable advisor inside Windows Media Center to get everything going.

      Note that the DRM verification requirements are a bit more stringent for cablecard, so you need to have your hardware configuration fully set before you activate the card. If you swap hardware too many times, you may run up against an installation limit.

    • MadManOriginal
    • 7 years ago

    So who wrote the laptop section? I never thought of TR as a trend-hopping site when that trend is a lot about fashion but most of the recommendations are for ultrabooks. It’s nice to see a portable section addition, however a wider range of ideas than a bunch of ultrabooks, two 15″ Trinity and one budget ultraportable would be nice. It feels like there is a whole slew of 13-14″ ‘normal’ laptops left out.

    I guess it’s hard when there are so many laptops out there, or maybe this is just the start of a new recommendation section so we can look forward to more in the future.

    *correction: page 7 ‘Storage options’ – the text mentions the Samsung HDD and Crucial M4 SSD, the chart only lists the Samsung HDD.

      • UberGerbil
      • 7 years ago

      TR hasn’t reviewed a lot of laptops, and generally speaking they don’t recommend things they haven’t reviewed. If we see more laptop reviews on the site — and it would be a worthy addition, with the waves of new models that seem poised to break — perhaps we’ll see more niches addressed in the system guide.

      Also, I’m not sure how much ultrabooks are about fashion. Certainly the branding and marketing is, but we need to mentally separate that from the product niche itself. And the desire for lightweight but powerful systems with good battery life has existed for a long time (and so have models catering to it — dating back a couple of decades to the original Toshiba Portégé, at least — though only recently have they come close to “normal” models in pricing). Personally I question the need for utlra-thinness for anything other than fashion, especially when it compromises keyboard feel, but I know some others disagree.

        • paulWTAMU
        • 7 years ago

        I don’t care as much about thinness as footprint. It’s why I really like 13.3″.

      • Airmantharp
      • 7 years ago

      It just looks like the editors are including a narrative that expresses their current opinions, rather than trying to review hardware or make defining recommendations, which is fine by me.

      • jdaven
      • 7 years ago

      Attitudes towards buying a PC have changed a lot since the glory days of thick plastic laptops with up to 20″ screens and dongles and other do-hickies hanging off the side. I bet market research found that these DTR laptops were being left on the desk hooked up to an external screen, mouse and keyboard 99% of the time anyway. Probably the reason Apple discontinued the 17″ MBP.

      The laptop ironically enough is being redefined to be truly portable and not a small form factor desktop with a backup battery APS. Ultraportables and ultrathins with integrated graphics and 13-15″ screens sans optical drives are going to be the only relevant form factors for this market segment going forward. Everything else will be very niche.

      If you need a larger screen, faster chips, more expansion, buy a desktop.

        • Airmantharp
        • 7 years ago

        I’d say that DTRs are resurgent in the power user crowd, and Alienware and Sager/Clevo would agree with me.

        That said, they always have been, and always will be, a wonderful niche product. Try and pry my 17.3″ Clevo out of my cold, dead hands :).

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